Rayovac Indestructible 2xAA as a GREAT little $15 P60 Host!!

ToyTank

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Not sure if this belongs here or in Custom/Mod....General Discussion of this light not as a host here

I was pleasantly surprised to find the Rayovac DIY2AA-b could easily be made into a 2AA P60 host.

The rubber head does have some thread lock junk but it broke free pretty easy. The reflector falls out, unthread the light engine and the battery retaining ring and a P60 drop in fits quite nice. The head does not screw all the way down. It might affect water resistance but I'd still think it was rain/dunk resistant

I like the "titanium" coating on the light and the look/feel. I have not taken the switch apart but it looks and feels decent. Battery tube walls are very thick. Threads do NOT lego with SF(tailcap is CLOSE) but that would be asking to much

Sorry for the Poor pictures

Stock LE on left, Kaidomain P60 Drop-in on right
2012-08-27_20-36-32_43.jpg


Gutted looking down from the head
2012-08-27_20-22-10_561.jpg


NEW WW LE
2012-08-27_20-22-34_514.jpg




With new WW LE
2012-08-27_20-24-29_855.jpg
 
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enomosiki

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How much of a gap is there between the head and the body? If it's not significant, you can probably get away with thick o-rings.
 

ToyTank

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You can see in Pic#3 the body has no ridge that mates with the head like on a 6p. So no gap but it does not thread down as far as with stock LE.
 
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ToyTank

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Originally I had a EDC+ X60L WW in there but it cut off @ 2.8ish volts. I'd like to find a blemished M31 or other low voltage module for it.
 

ToyTank

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A reliable drop-in in an indestructible body running off 2 AA. AWESOME!

That is my thought!!

I'm cheap so I have not gotten an M31 yet. I keep watching the blemished page though...

I try to get 2.8ish cut off voltage for my drop-ins so I really don't have anything suitable for 2x NIMH. I do have some Energizer L91s though and they put out > 1.5v for most of their life so they are very suitable for most drop-ins.

I'm using some of the walmart lifepo4 AA cells in there with a high voltage kaidomain blue XR-E(I think) right now. Works fine one level probably 2 hour runtime.

I have been making some AA maglite mods with a HCRI 5MM LED. I have been thinking about putting one of those in a burnt out P60 bulb. The recommended fv is 3.0v so @ 2.4 they pull about .5ma with usable light. Going DD I get 1000+ hour Low level runtime on NIMH or on L91 much brighter then a LOOOOONNNNGGGG taper. Nice emergency light and it retains candle mode for pure flood or pretty good throw with the focusing head.
 

dealgrabber2002

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I have been making some AA maglite mods with a HCRI 5MM LED. I have been thinking about putting one of those in a burnt out P60 bulb. The recommended fv is 3.0v so @ 2.4 they pull about .5ma with usable light. Going DD I get 1000+ hour Low level runtime on NIMH or on L91 much brighter then a LOOOOONNNNGGGG taper. Nice emergency light and it retains candle mode for pure flood or pretty good throw with the focusing head.

How many lumen you think is low level? If you do make one, show us a beamshot if possible. Love to see it.
 

ToyTank

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I'm not sure. I'm guessing in the 1-2 lumen range. I have some beamshots when I started the runtime test(for maglite) on 9-01. This was after the eneloops where at 1.35v and drawing 2-3ma. After 10 days it was ~.5ma. After 19 days the light appears the same to my night adapted eyes. Now according to my innova it is drawing .000a(free light!!) where before it was .000 and .001a back and forth. I blew the 250mah fuse so I can not get a better reading. I have a fluke at work but I am laid off right now:sigh:

These are the 2-3mah 1.35v beamshots. It must be dimmer but after almost 3 weeks taper it seems about the same to me. P60 should be the same output but no focusing.

AA Minimag 5MM HCRI MOD Focused DD 2.5ma
2012-09-01_20-53-48_765.jpg


This is with reflector removed. Like this stock twisty switch does not work. I prefer "candle mode" now to taking the relector out.

2012-09-01_20-54-48_581.jpg



2012-09-02_08-42-00_595.jpg


I think in a P60 it would be somewhere between the focused and the flood. I'd thought about making a separate thread really all these photos don't belong here, but this is such a simple stupid mod it does not belong with what some folks do here

I've gone from 2-3ma in the beamshots to < 1ma but still plenty of usefull ight. Not sure when the DD will cut out all together. From what I can tell I'm still getting .4V+ threw the resistance of the LED and host so I should be good until roughly 1.1V per cell i think.
 

CyberCT

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Hmm I'm not familiar with the P60 but for $15 I have a few questions:

1) Will the Rayovac with the P60 drop-in be waterproff where it can be dunked and work? Is there a Oring that fits I can get to make this happen?
2) Does the P60 have its own driver?
3) Are there different versions of the P60, like an XML with an OP reflector, that will fit in this light?

I have modded the LED of a few of my Fenix flashlights, and I have modded a few of my Rayovac Sportsman Xtreme lanterns to use the XML neutral LED and a custom driver, but haven't really gone beyond that territory yet.
 

AnAppleSnail

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1) Will the Rayovac with the P60 drop-in be waterproff where it can be dunked and work? Is there a Oring that fits I can get to make this happen?
2) Does the P60 have its own driver?
3) Are there different versions of the P60, like an XML with an OP reflector, that will fit in this light?

I have modded the LED of a few of my Fenix flashlights, and I have modded a few of my Rayovac Sportsman Xtreme lanterns to use the XML neutral LED and a custom driver, but haven't really gone beyond that territory yet.

It seems to be waterproof as the O-ring engages on the rubber head. I'm on a business trip but I can check when I get back home.

The P60 modules do have their own driver. I presently have a (ridiculously overpowered Oveready triple H3) high-power dropin in there that is supposed to work on one or two Lithium-Ion cells, and it lights up (About 200 lumen worth) on AA alkaleaks.

Most versions of the P60 module will work in this. They may need the "outer spring" to make contact with the body of the flashlight. You will probably need to 'shim' them to get good thermal contact. Cut up a soda can into metal strips that neatly wrap around the cylindrical (Not cone-shaped slanted) part of the dropin, then sand off the paint and inner plastic layer from the can metal. Wrap and insert, it should be snug.
 

aau007

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Is there a 8.4v dropin so I can use two 14500 LiIon batteries? Or is this going to be too hot (too much heat) for the host?
 
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