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Thread: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!

  1. #1

    Cool Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!

    Warning: pic heavy, as usual.

    UPDATE September 7, 2013: FYI, this model has been replaced by the S10 2013 (aka the S10 L2). See my full review of it here.

    UPDATE October 12, 2012: Olight has revised the S10/S20 tailcap design, which now features a removable magnet and spring. Scrol down for details





    The S10 is the latest addition to the Olight Baton series of flashlights – a series that look like, well, batons . The S10 is the smallest member of the family, and takes one CR123A or RCR cell. For a comparison to the other Baton lights, see my S35/S65 and S80 reviews.

    Let's see how it compares to others in its respective class – as well as what has changed from its larger Baton predecessors.

    Manufacturer Reported Specifications: (note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).

    • LED: Cree XM-L LED
    • Four outputs: Three in regular operation; the moonlight mode can be accessed directly when the flashlight is off; double click the on/off button to activate strobe mode
    • Hi: 320 lumens / 1hr30min
    • Med: 70 lumens / 7hr30min
    • Lo: 5 lumens / 4d12hr
    • Moonlight: 0.5 lumens / 15d
    • Strobe 10Hz / 3hr
    • High efficiency constant current drive circuit; perfectly compatible with CR123A and RCR123 batteries
    • Peak Intensity: 1800cd
    • Beam distance: 85m
    • Waterproof: IPX8, 2m
    • Equipped with auto memory function and a side switch
    • Strong magnet in the tail, the flashlight can be attached vertically on any ferrous surface
    • Two-direction invertible pocket clip
    • Stainless steel bezel
    • Flat tail cap allows tail standing
    • Battery reverse polarity protection
    • Dimensions: 70.5mm (2.7") length by 23mm (0.9") depth
    • Weight 52g (1.47 oz) excluding battery.
    • Included accessories: lanyard, o-ring
    • MSRP: ~$50




    My other Baton-series reviews were often based on early samples, so full retail packaging generally wasn't available. Olight did send me a shipping S10 for this review, so you can see the compact packaging up above. Olight includes a belt clip (attached), simple lanyard strap, extra o-rings, split ring, and manual.




    From left to right: Duracell CR123A; Olight S10; Sunwayman C10R; Eagletac D25C Clicky; Sunwayman M11R; Nitecore EC1; Jetbeam PC10.

    Here is how it compares to the other Olight Baton-series lights:


    From left to right: Duracell CR123A; Olight S10, S35, S65, S85; Duracell AA NiMH.

    All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

    Olight S10: Weight 41.1g, Length: 70.6mm, Width (bezel): 23.0mm
    Sunwayman C10R: Weight: 57.3g, Length: 76.2mm (no lanyard plug), 82.3mm (with plug), Width (bezel): 25.6mm, Width (head at widest part): 28.6mm
    Sunwayman M11R: Weight 45.8g, Length: 76.4mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
    Sunwayman V11R: Weight 50.5g, Length: 84.3mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
    Eagletac D25C Clicky: Weight: 30g, Length: 76.0mm, Width (bezel): 20.0mm
    Jetbeam PC10: Weight: 50.5g, Length: 93.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm






    Note: Olight initially sent me an engineering sample to test, so many of the pics above are from that original sample. Externally, the final shipping version differed only in a few body labels, shown in the close-ups below.




    UPDATE October 12, 2012: Labels have changed again - on the currently shipping tailcap with the removable spring, there is no longer the "N" or "S" label on the tail. Scroll down for details

    The S10 is quite petite for the class. Overall build is similar to the earlier cylindrical Baton lights, but with a few upgrades. Like the other Batons, the S10 features black anodizing (matte finish now), with bright white labels. Although still without typical knurling, the fine ridges of the other Batons has been replaced by a raised checkered pattern on the S10. With the pocket clip attached, I'd say grip is reasonably good.

    New to this model is the pocket clip. Although only of the clip-on style, it seems to hold onto the light fairly securely. It is also reversible, allowing you both bezel-up or bezel-down carry options.

    Light can tailstand, and there is a split-ring/lanyard attachment hole on the side of the tail cap. There is also a fairly strong magnet on the tailcap, allowing the light to stand firmly on any metal surface. In fact, on the original tailcap, this the magnetic pull is so strong that it could even hold onto the battery through the spring, as shown here:



    UPDATE October 12, 2012: Note that this is no longer the case with the currently shipping tailcap. The removable spring is no longer in direct contact with the magnet, so magnetic pull through the spring is greatly reduced. Scroll down for details.

    As before, the light uses an electronic switch, located near the head. There is a textured power logo on the switch now (the earlier model Batons were smooth white). Also, there doesn't seem to be a low-voltage warning LED under the switch anymore (at least, I saw no evidence of a sensor on my sample).

    Like the other Batons, the S10 uses square-cut screw threads as before – but now anodized for tail lock-out.




    As before, the light has a flat stainless steel bezel ring with a red o-ring, and a textured (orange peel) reflector. The reflector isn't very deep, so I would expect a wide spill beam. Emitter was well centered on my sample.

    Tailcap Design Update (October 12, 2012):

    As shown above, the original batch of S10s had a non-user-removable magnet. More recent shipping versions have a modified spring design that allows the user to remove the magnet. For those of you with the original tailcap, you can contact your dealer to obtain a free replacement version with the removable spring. Alternatively, Olight is offering a free diffuser wand to those with the original tailcap who are happy to keep it. More details on this "Compensatory Scheme" are available on the Olight website.

    You can tell which version you have from the pics below (original shipping is on the left, current version is on the right).




    There is a Olight instruction manual on their website, which will explain how to swap out the magnet in the current design. I also have prepared a video showing you how to do it. As always, you are likely to want to run this video at the higher 720p resolution for more detail.



    In addition to the ability to now swap out the magnet, there are two signficant factors I've noticed with the new tailcap design (explained in the video). The first is that the new spring design introduces a slight rattle when handling the light (with the magnet installed). Secondly, while the magnetic pull is just as strong out the back of the tailcap, you can no longer pick up a battery by the spring on the inside of the cap.

    Both of these are likely due to the spring not being as deeply/securely fastened inside the tailcap (i.e., it no longer seems to make direct contact with the magnet, hence the reduced magnetic pull through the spring). The rattle issue disappears if you swap the magnet out - the bundled o-ring is thicker than the magnet, and makes direct contact with the spring (dampening any movement). If you want to keep the magnet installed with the new design, I'm sure you could fully dampen the rattle with a thinner o-ring inserted under spring. An extra thin o-ring from a 1xAAA keychain light would probably do the trick.


    User Interface

    Like the other Baton lights, the S10 uses an electronic switch for on/off and mode control. As before, a quick press and release turns the light on.

    Mode switching is controlled by holding down the electronic switch. The light will cycle between Lo – Med – Hi - Med, in repeating sequence. This differs from the other Baton lights which were Lo – Med – Hi (i.e., in this case, the S10 steps down after stepping up in outputs). Simply release the switch to select your desired mode. The light has mode memory – if you turn it off/on, the light returns to your previous level.

    Note that if you memorize the light in Med, when next you turn it back on, it will always be in the first Med in the sequence. In other words, the next level in the sequence will always be Hi when re-activating in Med mode from Off.

    The S10 features a new innovation – a "Moonlight" low mode that is directly accessed from off by a sustained press of the switch. This is an excellent adaptation, as you can always turn the light on in the lowest possible mode if you want. Mode cycling and memory works as before, once on.

    There is still a "hidden" strobe mode, accessed by double-clicking the switch when on. Double-click again to return to constant on.

    The S10 no longer features the typical Olight "soft lock-out." Holding the switch down when on simply continues cycling between output modes indefinitely. To lock out the light, I recommend you twist the tailcap.

    For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my new video overview:



    Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen.

    PWM

    There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – I presume the light is current-controlled, as claimed.



    Strobe is a standard "tactical" high frequency strobe, measured at 9.7 Hz.

    Standby Drain

    As the switch is an electronic one, a standby current drain is always present when a battery is installed.

    I measured this standby drain at 5.7uA for 1xCR123A, and 5.8uA on 1xRCR. For a standard 1400mAh CR123A and 750mAh RCR, that would translate into over 28 years and 14 years, respectively, before a battery would be fully drained. Hardly a concern – although I do recommend you lock out the switch at the tailcap to prevent accidental activation.

    Beamshots:

    And now, the white-wall beamshots. All lights are on Max output on the identified battery type. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.

    1xRCR (AW Protected 750mAh) Li-ion Comparison:













    1xCR123A Comparison:













    Beam pattern is as you would expect for a XM-L light with this size textured reflector – a fairly big hotspot and decent sized spillbeam. Scroll down for full output details in my tables.

    Testing Method:

    All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

    I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info.

    Throw/Output Summary Chart:

    My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).





    The S10 has a balanced overall output pattern, with a good spacing of levels. Reported Olight ANSI FL-1 output and beam intensity specs seem accurate.

    Output/Runtime Comparison:







    The S10 has a somewhat distinctive step-down pattern on Hi: after 5 mins, the light steps down to a slightly lower level – but gradually, over a period of two minutes. This differs from most lights that have an abrupt step. As a result, you are not likely to be able to perceive the gradual dimming here.

    Efficiency seems excellent on the S10, especially on primary CR123A.

    UPDATE October 10, 2012: Here is a summary table showing what my ANSI FL-1 lumen estimates are for the S10:



    As you can see, my results are very closely in-line with Olight's published specs on 1xCR123A. Max output increased slightly on 1xRCR, but the difference is barely noticeable in real life.


    Potential Issues

    Baton lights all use an electronic switch, and therefore require a small stand-by current when fully connected. However, you can lock out the S10 at the tailcap, and the standby drain is so low (<6 uA) as to be negligible on the lifespan of the battery (i.e. many decades). But note that the S10 no longer uses the "soft" electronic lock-out feature of its predecessors.

    Mode sequence has been changed from a consistent repeating Lo > Med > Hi on the other Baton lights to a repeating Lo > Med > Hi > Med. Originally, I felt this would could be potentially annoying (i.e., you may have forgotten where it is in the sequence after leaving it off for ahile). But on further testing, I see now that it always comes on in the first Med in the sequence (i.e., Hi will always follow Med after a re-activation).

    There is no low-voltage warning sensor on the S10, as there was on the S35/S65/S80 (previously located under the power switch).

    Preliminary Observations

    The S10 is a nice addition to the Baton series of Olight lights.

    I like most of the updates to this model, including the good clip (reversible), keychain attachment point, and revised knurling. The S10 is quite comfortable to carry and use, with good ergonomics in my opinion. Personally, I'm not crazy about magnetic tailcaps – but they do have their uses, and some people really like them. In this case, it is certainly strong enough to hold the light horizontally off a metal surface. And magnets can always be permanently disabled by the local application of high heat. In this case, a typical butane lighter was only able to diminish it slightly on my sample, but as suggested in the discussions below, a soldering iron would be a lot more effective (and certainly safer).

    UPDATE October 12, 2012: Olight has revised the tailcap design, which now features a removable magnet. See my updated build section for an overview and video on how to swap out the magnet.

    The user interface updates are generally goood – the "hidden" Moonlight mode accessed from Off is brilliant, and a great addition to the interface. The Lo > Med > Hi > Med is a little unusual, but the light always re-activates on the first Med mode from Off (i.e., Hi will always be next in the sequence upon re-activation).

    Nice to see they have kept the standby current at a completely negligible low uA current. I am not sure why the "soft" electronic lock-out mode was ditched on this model, but I don't really miss it given that a physical lock-out is now possible at the tailcap. This is my preferred way to prevent accidental activations anyway.

    Output mode spacings remain good – better in fact, with the new Moonlight mode on the S10. And the performance of the light is excellent in my testing, in keeping with the good current-control circuitry (i.e. very long relative runtimes). It is a particularly thoughtful idea to have the gradual drop-off in the Hi mode step-down, so that you won't notice the dimming.

    The S10 is a nice update and extension to the Baton line of lights. I like most of the light tweaks and updates, and am impressed with how Olight handled the magnetic tailcap issue (i.e. offering free updates to those with the original permanently-installed version). The S10 stands out as another good potential option in the defined-level 1xCR123A/RCR space. A very strong contender.

    UPDATE September 7, 2013: FYI, this model has been replaced by the S10 2013 (aka the S10 L2). See my full review of it here.

    ----

    S10 was supplied by Olight for review.
    Last edited by selfbuilt; 03-11-2014 at 08:29 AM.
    Full list of all my reviews: flashlightreviews.ca. Outdoor 100-yard Beamshots 2011. Latest: Thrunite Neutron 2014 - 2A 2C.
    Gratefully accepting donations to my battery fund.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Looks really nice, good review.


  3. #3

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Good review - thanks. Sorry to be a pedant, but in the last Output/Runtime chart,for Primary CR123 at Medium, the number of hours (4) for the S10 is missing from the box.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by Dubois View Post
    Good review - thanks. Sorry to be a pedant, but in the last Output/Runtime chart,for Primary CR123 at Medium, the number of hours (4) for the S10 is missing from the box.
    Thanks, I'll fix that.
    Full list of all my reviews: flashlightreviews.ca. Outdoor 100-yard Beamshots 2011. Latest: Thrunite Neutron 2014 - 2A 2C.
    Gratefully accepting donations to my battery fund.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Great review. Thanks

  6. #6

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    The magnet can be disabled with a candleflame? I didn't know that.

    EDIT: Just checked online. Assuming its a standard n-grade Neodymium magnet, then the magnet will start to lose its strength at 176 degrees F (80 degrees C) and completely demagnetize at 590 degrees F (310 C). Doesn't sound like a candleflame is going to be hot enough to completely demagnetize the magnet, but it might be enough to weaken it.
    Last edited by Fireclaw18; 09-14-2012 at 04:13 PM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    As always, great review. Can you tell us a little more about the red battery warning light in the switch...does it start to blink while on? does it blink while off? Did you happen to notice at about what voltage the warning started or can you give a guess? Is it bright enough to be noticeable? Does the blink rate increase as the battery drops down?
    Last edited by Badbeams3; 09-14-2012 at 02:16 PM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Great review as always. I gotta believe that low-med-high-med-low set up would drive me nuts if I left off in med. since you wouldn't know if low of high was coming next.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by ZRXBILL View Post
    Great review as always. I gotta believe that low-med-high-med-low set up would drive me nuts if I left off in med. since you wouldn't know if low of high was coming next.
    Don`t think thats right...watch the video from around 3 minutes forward and keep track...at 3:42 he shuts it off in medium after coming down from high, at 4:10ish he presses to change and it goes up...would have gone down under your concept. I noticed playing with one last night, that if you shut it off in medium, turn it back on, starts back on medium and it always goes up by default (does not matter which way you were going before shutting it off). It does not do this if kept on...you need to remember which way you were going...a problem for me...but thats my memory problem , not the lights...
    Last edited by Badbeams3; 09-14-2012 at 05:03 PM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by Badbeams3 View Post
    Don`t think thats right...watch the video from around 3 minutes forward and keep track...at 3:42 he shuts it off in medium after coming down from high, at 4:10ish he presses to change and it goes up...would have gone down under your concept. I noticed playing with one last night, that if you shut it off in medium, turn it back on, starts back on medium and it always goes up by default (does not matter which way you were going before shutting it off). It does not do this if kept on...you need to remember which way you were going...a problem for me...but thats my memory problem , not the lights...
    He even specifically complains about the low-med-high-med-low interface in the video.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by ZRXBILL View Post
    He even specifically complains about the low-med-high-med-low interface in the video.
    Yes, but just wanted to clarify...does not matter which way you were going before shutting it off...will always go up when turned back on, then pressed, by default...no guessing from off....last level then up (unless last level was high of course...then down, only way it can go). Selfbuilt perhaps, might wish to correct/clarify that video...it is a little misleading...
    Last edited by Badbeams3; 09-14-2012 at 06:45 PM.

  12. #12
    Flashaholic* GordoJones88's Avatar
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    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    i1 > S10


    Somebody had to say it.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by GordoJones88 View Post
    i1 > S10


    Somebody had to say it.
    In what way?

  14. #14
    Flashaholic* KuanR's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Badbeams3 View Post
    Yes, but just wanted to clarify...does not matter which way you were going before shutting it off...will always go up when turned back on, then pressed, by default...no guessing from off....last level then up (unless last level was high of course...then down, only way it can go). Selfbuilt perhaps, might wish to correct/clarify that video...it is a little misleading...
    I just got mine in the mail and you are right, no matter if you're going up or down, once turned off and on, it will always begin going up when you cycle through the power levels

    I have an i1 ss and I definitely like the s10 levels and side switch more, but it obviously does not feel as robust or well built as the i1 ss
    I'm Ryan.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Another excellent review from Selfbulit!

    I did a runtime test on med (70lm) with a no-name brand CR123A. When the battery voltage drop to 2.0v after 6.5 hours, the light start to flicker (My Zebralight H51w did the same thing). If I switch to low mode the flickering stops, and it will continue on low for another 30 minutes and then auto shut-off at 1.9v. And it can still turn back on moon mode and last for a very long time.

    So did your S10 share the same behavior? In term of the flickering and the auto shut-off voltage.

  16. #16

    Default

    Away traveling, so will double check the Med activation when I am back and have the light in front me. Same goes for the red LED low voltage warning - I will post more details when I have time to interrogate.

    As for the candle flame, I havent tested it, but I know others reported it worked on the foursevens Preon P0.

    Sent from my handheld device
    Full list of all my reviews: flashlightreviews.ca. Outdoor 100-yard Beamshots 2011. Latest: Thrunite Neutron 2014 - 2A 2C.
    Gratefully accepting donations to my battery fund.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    To nuetralize a magnet, you can also use a soldering iron to do that, and its a lot safer and easier to control than using cadle fire.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Nice review as always Selfbuilt!

  19. #19

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Great Review!

    Quote Originally Posted by selfbuilt View Post
    The S10 has a somewhat distinctive step-down pattern on Hi: after 5 mins, the light steps down to a slightly lower level – but gradually, over a period of two minutes. This differs from most lights that have an abrupt step. As a result, you are not likely to be able to perceive the gradual dimming here.
    When the light has steped down in effect after 5 minuters,can one turn of the light then immediately turn it on again and it starts at the highest mode again? Is there a risk that the light get permanently damaged by doing so? Is the clip removable?
    LED: Olight I1 EOS,Olight S20,Olight S20-L2,Nitecore SRT7,Sunwayman V20C,Sunwayman R10A,FourSevens Mini M2A,FourSevens Mini MLR2,Fenix TK75-L2,XTAR BK12, Crelant CH10,Streamlight Nano Light and more...

  20. #20

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    I double-checked, and the light always comes on in the first "Med" mode upon re-activation (i.e., always advances to Hi next). So no matter which Med you leave it, you can predict what will happen upon re-activation - I will update the review and video.

    As for the magnet, my comments were based on the principle that magnets can be permanently disabled by the local application of high heat. I have just gone and tested it, and a typical butane lighter was only able to diminish it on my sample. Basically, after a few secs with the lighter, the magnet would no longer hold the battery by the tailcap spring (as shown in the pic and video), but the you could still mount the whole light stably to a metal surface.

    Quote Originally Posted by jamjam View Post
    So did your S10 share the same behavior? In term of the flickering and the auto shut-off voltage.
    No flickering on mine, but I still need to interogate the specific voltages for the warning sensor.

    Quote Originally Posted by jamjam View Post
    To nuetralize a magnet, you can also use a soldering iron to do that, and its a lot safer and easier to control than using cadle fire.
    Good tip! That should definitely do it.

    Quote Originally Posted by NorthernStar View Post
    When the light has steped down in effect after 5 minuters,can one turn of the light then immediately turn it on again and it starts at the highest mode again? Is there a risk that the light get permanently damaged by doing so? Is the clip removable?
    If you turn it off and back on, it comes back on at max output again. Whether it is "safe" to do so repeatedly is hard to say. It is not what the manufacturer intended. But I've certainly seen more heavily driven lights that don't step down, so hard to say what long-term effect could be. I would recommend common sense be applied - if the light is feeling really warm by hand, let it step down, or manually drop down to Med.

    And yes, the clip is removable.
    Full list of all my reviews: flashlightreviews.ca. Outdoor 100-yard Beamshots 2011. Latest: Thrunite Neutron 2014 - 2A 2C.
    Gratefully accepting donations to my battery fund.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by selfbuilt View Post
    No flickering on mine, but I still need to interogate the specific voltages for the warning sensor.
    Let me know after you test it, may be its just my sample. I had the same problem with another light (Not H51w) after exchanged it, the replacement doesn't have this problem anymore. Thanks.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Looking at the run time charts, this light really has very impressive RCR regulation...very flat to the 3 volt cutoff. The Eagletac D25C beats the pants out of it at the start, but seems to suffer a heart attack soon after leaving the gate. Medium level, 70 LM RCR performance is especially superb. None of the others come close. The Sunwayman V11R (blue line) does best it...but appears to be drinking heavily along the way. Of the ones tested in the charts, the S10 appears to me to be the all around RCR performance champ.

    I wish they had picked a brighter low...say 15 lumen.
    Last edited by Badbeams3; 09-16-2012 at 03:11 PM.

  23. #23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Badbeams3 View Post
    Looking at the run time charts, this light really has very impressive RCR regulation...very flat to the 3 volt cutoff. The Eagletac D25C beats the pants out of it at the start, but seems to suffer a heart attack soon after leaving the gate. Medium level, 70 LM RCR performance is especially superb. None of the others come close. The Sunwayman V11R (blue line) does best it...but appears to be drinking heavily along the way. Of the ones tested in the charts, the S10 appears to me to be the all around RCR performance champ.
    That has to be the funniest descriptions of a runtime graph that I have ever read.

    While all quite true, the "drunken staggers" of the V11R would not be visible to the naked eye. The time course for most of these graphs is so long that you cannot see these small variations in real life.

    The S10 is definitely a great performer.


    Sent from my handheld device
    Full list of all my reviews: flashlightreviews.ca. Outdoor 100-yard Beamshots 2011. Latest: Thrunite Neutron 2014 - 2A 2C.
    Gratefully accepting donations to my battery fund.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by selfbuilt View Post
    If you turn it off and back on, it comes back on at max output again. Whether it is "safe" to do so repeatedly is hard to say. It is not what the manufacturer intended. But I've certainly seen more heavily driven lights that don't step down, so hard to say what long-term effect could be. I would recommend common sense be applied - if the light is feeling really warm by hand, let it step down, or manually drop down to Med.

    And yes, the clip is removable.
    Thank´s for the info!

    Like you say,it´s probably not good for the light to be reactivated again at the highest mode after it has automatically steped down in effect. I was just curious if it was possible to do so.
    LED: Olight I1 EOS,Olight S20,Olight S20-L2,Nitecore SRT7,Sunwayman V20C,Sunwayman R10A,FourSevens Mini M2A,FourSevens Mini MLR2,Fenix TK75-L2,XTAR BK12, Crelant CH10,Streamlight Nano Light and more...

  25. #25

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by Badbeams3 View Post
    As always, great review. Can you tell us a little more about the red battery warning light in the switch...does it start to blink while on? does it blink while off? Did you happen to notice at about what voltage the warning started or can you give a guess? Is it bright enough to be noticeable? Does the blink rate increase as the battery drops down?
    Well, this is interesting - there doesn't actually seem to be a low voltage warning on the S10. Sorry for the confusion.

    That review text was left-over from my earlier Baton series reviews - I hadn't actually tested for the sensor here. And since my runtimes are largely automated, I don't typicaly notice sensor functioning until I explicitly set out to examine it. This is what I get for posting a review while I am away travelling.

    I note in the specs there is no mention of a sensor, and I found no evidence of it on either RCR or CR123A. I will confirm with Olight.

    Quote Originally Posted by jamjam View Post
    I did a runtime test on med (70lm) with a no-name brand CR123A. When the battery voltage drop to 2.0v after 6.5 hours, the light start to flicker (My Zebralight H51w did the same thing). If I switch to low mode the flickering stops, and it will continue on low for another 30 minutes and then auto shut-off at 1.9v. And it can still turn back on moon mode and last for a very long time.
    I saw no sign of flickering in my initial testing, on AW RCR or Titanium Innovations CR123A. But I just tested an old Ultrafire protected RCR, and got high-speed flickering (kind of like a strobe) on Hi, <3.8V or so.

    I don't see this on any of my AW cells, so I can only assume it's the circuit's response to a poor quality battery that can't reliably provide the required power.
    Full list of all my reviews: flashlightreviews.ca. Outdoor 100-yard Beamshots 2011. Latest: Thrunite Neutron 2014 - 2A 2C.
    Gratefully accepting donations to my battery fund.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by selfbuilt View Post
    I saw no sign of flickering in my initial testing, on AW RCR or Titanium Innovations CR123A. But I just tested an old Ultrafire protected RCR, and got high-speed flickering (kind of like a strobe) on Hi, <3.8V or so.

    I don't see this on any of my AW cells, so I can only assume it's the circuit's response to a poor quality battery that can't reliably provide the required power.
    Thanks for the reply. Its probably my cheap 0.40 USD CR123A which are acting-up. But 4 hours of steady 70lm for 0.40 USD is a steal. Surefire and Panasonic CR123A are so damn expensive here, and yes, the AW 16340 cost 14 USD here in China.

  27. #27
    Enlightened amaretto's Avatar
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    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Hi Selfbuilt, thank you for reviewing. I wonder why i measured exactly the same lumens wether (Panasonic) CR123A or RCR123 (AW). Both 323 lumens.


  28. #28

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by amaretto View Post
    Hi Selfbuilt, thank you for reviewing. I wonder why i measured exactly the same lumens wether (Panasonic) CR123A or RCR123 (AW). Both 323 lumens.
    Hmmm, was the RCR freshly charged? In my case, my independent ceiling bounce, lightbox and throw measures (all done with different meters) all agree that my sample is ~20% brighter initially on RCR.
    Full list of all my reviews: flashlightreviews.ca. Outdoor 100-yard Beamshots 2011. Latest: Thrunite Neutron 2014 - 2A 2C.
    Gratefully accepting donations to my battery fund.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Does the low battery warning work properly with both cr123 and 16340?
    How far from pitch black does it light up and has the light by then already started to dim noticeably on the higher levels?

  30. #30

    Default Re: Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more

    Quote Originally Posted by dts71 View Post
    Does the low battery warning work properly with both cr123 and 16340?
    I see no evidence of a low battery warning on my sample ... I will confirm with Olight.
    Full list of all my reviews: flashlightreviews.ca. Outdoor 100-yard Beamshots 2011. Latest: Thrunite Neutron 2014 - 2A 2C.
    Gratefully accepting donations to my battery fund.

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