This post will be the main spot to house all the beamshots I take for the foreseeable future.
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You mean beamshots? They are there. That is the one labeled STL-V6.Can i request the FandyFire next? That's closer to my budget range.
Yes it is a bit underexposed. I try to err on the conservative side to avoid deceiving anyone. That said it is a little more underexposed than I expected it to be once I got home and saw the pics on my computer screen. I am not the most technically capable when it comes to electronics and software so I am unsure how to tap into that hidden data some people can get to. EXIF or something like that? I think the settings I used were 1/1.3 F3.0.thank you. A bit underexposed? Please post camera settings.
You mean beamshots? They are there. That is the one labeled STL-V6.
Yes it is a bit underexposed. I try to err on the conservative side to avoid deceiving anyone. That said it is a little more underexposed than I expected it to be once I got home and saw the pics on my computer screen. I am not the most technically capable when it comes to electronics and software so I am unsure how to tap into that hidden data some people can get to. EXIF or something like that? I think the settings I used were 1/1.3 F3.0.
The camera is a Nikon P510. I got it because of the monster zoom. 42X!!! Since I am taking super long shots with these crazy lights I need to be able to zoom in close enough that detail can be evident on a computer screen and a proper comparison made. I did not change the settings shot to shot. I am unsure if some options are on automatic such as the iso. The menu setup for this camera is a nightmare. You can't get to all the relevant info you need in one place. The settings I posted earlier were what was on the screen when I shot. I just adjusted until it looked about right. I guess the first number is the exposure? The second is clearly the F stop right? F3.0 At any rate I kept the settings the same for all shots.Thanks for the beamshots. I guess for consistency it'd be nice to see what the exposure (shutter speed/F stop) is for each pic (presume you use the same settings for all). And any white balance settings, ISO and of course what camera you used. All this goes into making all your beam shot photos directly comparable to each other.
Cheers and good luck!
Thanks. The STL-V6 are already built.I'm really liking the STL-V6 Michael! It's going to be my next flashlight purchase for sure. This may be off topic here but how long are the current wait times for your STL-V6 build?
TEEJ I do plan on taking shots from much farther. The conditions that night just did not allow for me to finish the shoot. I am thinking about adding a meter at the far end of the beam as well. Also I am going to be making a "man" to stand down there so there is something consistent to compare with as the seasons change and the leaves fall off. Just need to figure out what the best way to dress him would be so that the result yeilded useful data. So what color shirt would be best? Should it have multiple colors to kind of see how the beam renders different colors? Maybe a gigantic color swatch should be put down there to help see the color rendering? Any thoughts anyone has on that I am eager to entertain.
The camera is a Nikon P510. I got it because of the monster zoom. 42X!!! Since I am taking super long shots with these crazy lights I need to be able to zoom in close enough that detail can be evident on a computer screen and a proper comparison made. I did not change the settings shot to shot. I am unsure if some options are on automatic such as the iso. The menu setup for this camera is a nightmare. You can't get to all the relevant info you need in one place. The settings I posted earlier were what was on the screen when I shot. I just adjusted until it looked about right. I guess the first number is the exposure? The second is clearly the F stop right? F3.0 At any rate I kept the settings the same for all shots.
Thanks. The STL-V6 are already built.
TEEJ I do plan on taking shots from much farther. The conditions that night just did not allow for me to finish the shoot. I am thinking about adding a meter at the far end of the beam as well. Also I am going to be making a "man" to stand down there so there is something consistent to compare with as the seasons change and the leaves fall off. Just need to figure out what the best way to dress him would be so that the result yeilded useful data. So what color shirt would be best? Should it have multiple colors to kind of see how the beam renders different colors? Maybe a gigantic color swatch should be put down there to help see the color rendering? Any thoughts anyone has on that I am eager to entertain.
shoot as low as iso as you can and with a tripod.........
also, its always better to overexpose at night a tad, rather than under, as underexposure will always bring out iso noise when brought up to proper exposure in editing...
set it in av mode try and keep it a 100 iso, 200 max....
set the f stop at 8 or higher....that will keep the field of view wide, and not just focus on the center point, and blur the rest..
always shoot far away subjects and landscape shots at high f stops when possible..
first number you should see in viewfinder is shutter speed, then f stop, then iso....
id def set the focus manually, as af at night is hit and miss at best...
I'm really liking the STL-V6 Michael! It's going to be my next flashlight purchase for sure. This may be off topic here but how long are the current wait times for your STL-V6 build?
You mean beamshots? They are there. That is the one labeled STL-V6.
Yes it is a bit underexposed. I try to err on the conservative side to avoid deceiving anyone. That said it is a little more underexposed than I expected it to be once I got home and saw the pics on my computer screen. I am not the most technically capable when it comes to electronics and software so I am unsure how to tap into that hidden data some people can get to. EXIF or something like that? I think the settings I used were 1/1.3 F3.0.