Oriel 8540 Universal 1000 Watt Arc Lamp Power Supply questions

BVH

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I bought this 1980's vintage Oriel universal Arc Lamp supply to run some Cermax 1000 Watt lamps for the fun of it. Many newer models did not have igniters built-in, this one does. The lamp is known good/operational. As shown in pic 2, I had to move the main 240 Volt feed wire from the T1 terminal "208" to terminal 240 as I am using 240 Volt power. In my Sorensen conventional non-arc variable power supply, not only did I have to move the main tap wire, but I had to move a smaller wire going to the main transformer also. I don't have enough of a manual to know if I have to move another wire. Anybody have any thoughts on that?

My problem...The igniter strikes the arc and maintains it for about 1 second, then the lamp goes out. So the igniter circuit is functioning but the boost and normal running power supplied by the regulator circuit is not functioning. The two things I notice are: When ignition is taking place, there is good arcing between all 4 sets of points in the close-up in pic 4. I guessing these are sort of an "arc gap" found in many of my other short arc light igniter circuits, so arcing is good. However, the relay at the top of the pic 5 with one set of points and a couple of resistors attached is not functioning at all. No coil activation so points movement. I am guessing that this relay might control regulator power and that since it is not moving the points, regulator power for boost and run are not getting to the bulb. Anybody have any thoughts?

Overall view of entire supply insides

Oriel85401000WattuniversalArcLampPSinsidecomplete.jpg



Transformer T1

Oriel85401000WattuniversalArcLampPST1close.jpg



Igniter

Oriel85401000WattuniversalArcLampPSIgniterside.jpg



Points - Arc Gap?

Oriel85401000WattuniversalArcLampPSIgniterpoints-ArcGap.jpg



Non-functioning relay (part of ignition circuit)

Oriel85401000WattuniversalArcLampPSIgniterrelayinop.jpg
 

ma_sha1

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I have some similar experiences, may not help you but won't hurt to offer it up I guess:

I have seen sparks in ballast & ignition, then self terminate in my Swan Blaster build.

Turns out my 12V to 400V inverter is not getting enough power when plugged into 12V power supply with a plug.
I hard wired it & then it's fixed. the ballast wasn't the problem but it sure looked that way with sparks flying across a spark gap.

How do you supply 240V? Is it possible not the ballast but power choked up before the ballast?
 
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BVH

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Sep 25, 2004
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CentCalCoast
Ma, thanks for the suggestion. The max input rating on the tag of the supply is 20 Amps. I'm feeding it from a 240V, 30 Amp breaker to the 30 Amp twistlock plug (all of this is new equipment). The breaker-to-outlet cable is 8awg and so is the cord to the PS. All of that should be good for 40 Amps or more. (And that panel to outlet cable run is only 6' total)
 
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