NanoLight LED Bulb - 4000K at 133 lumens per watt

slebans

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NanoLight LED Bulb - 4000K at 133 lumens per watt
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/619878070/nanolight-the-worlds-most-energy-efficient-lightbu

There is no heat sink. This is similar to the Philips LED Light Engines using sub 1 watt LEDS.
Looks like high efficacy .2 to .5 watt LEDs.

It is worth watching the last 30 seconds of the video as they manually fold the printed circuit board into a bulb.

The company has exceeded their Kickstarter requested funding level so hopefully we will see a finished bulb soon.
 

jtr1962

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12 watts in, ~half of that comes out as light, so no surprise the MCPCBs are adequate for heatsinking. I also like that they picked 4000K instead of the much more common 2700K/3000K used by the major manufacturers. 4000K isn't so cool that most people couldn't get used to it, but it looks worlds better than 2700K or 3000K.
 
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ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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Did you notice that the power factor is 0.58. That is a very non-linear and highly inductive load.
The light is actually using 20.4 watts of power to produce 12.3.
At least that is according to what the meter is showing.

Not to mention is looks like something I could make in my garage. Zero aesthetic appeal.
 

neutralwhite

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the bulbs im using at home are energy saving ones, but with these, they are like pushed in, and screwed locked into place, like usual old bulbs here in the
UK.

BAYONET TYPE.

would these work as i can't see how the would hold in there in the socket...
thanks.
 
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AnAppleSnail

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The discussion of VA vs Watts always seemed to me to boil down to:

The power company is used to providing power at VA=Watts. If they have to change (At some cost) to best serve their customers, then they have that choice. Of course, picking a number for that cost gets very (Political/unresolvable/argumentative).

Cheers for decent efficiency at 4000K CCT. Did someone mention the color rendering (Not necessarily CRI, but just general color perception)?
 
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neutralwhite

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yes, the 4000CCT was a really good move, and choice, really.
looks pretty nice.

The discussion of VA vs Watts always seemed to me to boil down to:

The power company is used to providing power at VA=Watts. If they have to change (At some cost) to best serve their customers, then they have that choice. Of course, picking a number for that cost gets very (Political/unresolvable/argumentative).

Cheers for decent efficiency at 4000K CCT. Did someone mention the color rendering (Not necessarily CRI, but just general color perception)?
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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No. The lamp is using 21VA. Apparently you don't know the difference between VA and Watts. Bottom line is the 0.58 PF is of no consequence for this discussion about lamp efficacy...

Actually I am VERY CLEAR on the difference between the VA and Watts. Although my phrasing was inaccurate in terms of terminology so thank you for the correction.

0.58PF is of concern when it comes to your power delivery company who may get pretty pissed off if your overall PF is less that 0.9-0.95.
 

neutralwhite

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hi swaying a little away,....

with this same 4000CCT/K. is there a flashlight just as this colour anywhere?. thanks.
Nichia HCRI in 4000 maybe?.
thanks.
 

brickbat

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...power delivery company who may get pretty pissed off if your overall PF is less that 0.9-0.95....

How would putting a few 12W 0.58PF loads in my house even register on their equipment, let alone "**** them off"? OTOH, if I were a large industrial/commercial customer, and installed 1000's of these, they'd just charge me extra, based on my bad PF. Again, I don't see why it would "**** them off".

Again, I assert the 0.58 PF of a dinky little 12W lamp is insignificant. Your refrigerator, and A/C draw more VARs than this lamp...
 
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LEDAdd1ct

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The affordable(?) fixed lighting LED revolution is here!

No heatsink means less materials.

Don't see any glass.

I want to know how much for the 100 watt, 1600 lumen version.

If we see $15.00 to $20.00 each, we have a winner:

Closer to the $20.00 end, and most Flashoholics, early adopters, techies, and those who love gadgets will be in.

Closer to the $15.00 end, and the company runs a real probability of pulling in the average consumer.

Time will tell...
 

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

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How would putting a few 12W 0.58PF loads in my house even register on their equipment, let alone "**** them off"? OTOH, if I were a large industrial/commercial customer, and installed 1000's of these, they'd just charge me extra, based on my bad PF. Again, I don't see why it would "**** them off".

Again, I assert the 0.58 PF of a dinky little 12W lamp is insignificant. Your refrigerator, and A/C draw more VARs than this lamp...

Why do you feel the urge to be condescending in your posts? You can voice your opinion politely rather than being a prick towards me two posts in a row. It's people like you and the attitude in your postings that make interesting threads go downhill. I thought I would put my opinion out there but you obviously feel that I am wrong and it's not only enough to politely correct me, but you feel I obliged to really slam me at the same time. Ya know there are saying about about opinions and a particular body part and you are speaking right from yours and being one as far as I am concerned!

Thanks but no thanks.
 

neutralwhite

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im in already . its gonna be good, im sure...


The affordable(?) fixed lighting LED revolution is here!

No heatsink means less materials.

Don't see any glass.

I want to know how much for the 100 watt, 1600 lumen version.

If we see $15.00 to $20.00 each, we have a winner:

Closer to the $20.00 end, and most Flashoholics, early adopters, techies, and those who love gadgets will be in.

Closer to the $15.00 end, and the company runs a real probability of pulling in the average consumer.

Time will tell...
 

JohnR66

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Just some observations on power factor. No stepping on toes intended...
The low PF in most lighting devices with solid state drivers is due to the high crest factor in the current waveform caused by the device drawing current only when the AC voltage is near its peak. This causes harmonics that can be a problem with electrical transmission equipment. Substations often contain devices to deal with the harmonics. They also contain PF correction capacitor banks in the substations and along the distribution route.

I am unclear on how they give a PF rating to such lamps. Vector displacement waveforms from inductive or capacitive loads makes sense and are easy to calculate.

FWIW, residential meters (the old spinning disk type) are unable to measure reactive power and only register real power used. Medium and large industrial customers will often correct power factor on site or may be billed for poor PF.
 

brickbat

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...I am unclear on how they give a PF rating to such lamps. Vector displacement waveforms from inductive or capacitive loads makes sense and are easy to calculate...

Yep, it got more complex with non linear loads. It looks like PF of a non linear loads is determined by breaking it into parts: not surprisingly part 1 is the displacement PF of the fundamental current (60Hz in this case). Part 2 involves the harmonic distortion present in the current waveform. Good info here:

http://www.artechepq.com/assets/files/PF_nonlinearloads.pdf
 

jtr1962

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The may well be using a simple capacitor fed full-wave bridge here. Super simple and very efficient, but horrible PF, and not dimmable. If the driver is a more complex IC-based one, then I'm surprised the PF is so poor. From where I stand that makes no sense. Either use an IC-based driver and get good PF and also dimmibility, or use something super simple and cheap, like a capacitor-fed FWB, if neither of those things are important.
 

brickbat

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From what I've seen high PF and dimmability usually go hand-in-hand. The NanoLight website says it's non-dimmable, so the low PF isn't surprising...
 

slebans

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The may well be using a simple capacitor fed full-wave bridge here. Super simple and very efficient, but horrible PF, and not dimmable. If the driver is a more complex IC-based one, then I'm surprised the PF is so poor. From where I stand that makes no sense. Either use an IC-based driver and get good PF and also dimmibility, or use something super simple and cheap, like a capacitor-fed FWB, if neither of those things are important.

I know it is a poor image but here is a frame containing electronics from the back of the circuit board.
8379119076_bbf7c6cbe0_z.jpg
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