The nicest thing about not planning for a disaster is that it comes as a complete surprise and is not preceded by a period of worry and depression
You forgot to keep the mAh your didn't respect your units.
Power (Measured in watts) = Volts * Current
1.4 volt Nihm * 2.5 AMPHours = 3.5 Watt Hours
4.2 volt Lion * 0.7 AMPHour = 3.15 Watt Hours
It is 3500 milli-watt hours and 3150 milli-watt hours respectively.
Awesome looking light looking forward to a selfbuilt review.
The 3V CR14505 primaries that BJ sells (4 per pack) are rated at 1500 mAHr, which could theoretically yield even more runtime: 3V * 1.5 = 4.5WHr per cell.
Last edited by Rexlion; 04-27-2013 at 03:33 PM.
==A 3D photography nut, turned flashaholic==
Runtime should be nearly the same with 3 Energizer lithium cells. There is a lot of power in 3 of them - 13.5 Watt hours. Lots of cell options with this light.
Last edited by regulator; 04-27-2013 at 08:05 AM.
Absolutely love this light. I own the Neutral version as well. I prefer the L2 and have nothing negative to say about the light. Throws like crazy and I prefer my EA4 over my EA8 CW as well.
Output level spacing is great. I love the UI and size. I have other EDC lights for fire fly mode and lower level use.
The Nitecore EA4 L2 is an excellent light.
Last edited by weklund; 04-27-2013 at 11:59 AM.
Ok. I'm weak I couldn't resist Am waiting a (long)time on this light, so why wouldn't I order it now it's here.
But for now.. this will be my last light summer is coming so days will be longer- my lights are gettin some sleep
"Got a light?" -Well yes, I have
From a lumens standpoint the spacing on the modes seems fair, but from a visual standpoint you get Turbo, Turbo(ish), and 2xAAA on the normal operation modes, and then you get Turbo, Medium+, Strobe on the tactical mode.
I don't mind the interface at all, twist brightness is fine for me, but in standard mode I really only have the option for short life Turbo, or a light level that I can get out of my Preon P1/2. I tried sticking in the tactical mode to see if that helped, and it was a little better, but I'm concerned about run-time when we're out on the boat or out camping.
I ordered the L2 Nitecore EA4 this week and it should be here in time for this weekend. The size is very comparable and with the L2 bulb the lumens should be almost the same. If the switch doesn't completely ruin the light for me then I think I am going to let the GX25A3 go.
I was so excited about this light too!
That's too bad, and confirms my suspicions. I felt the same way just looking at the specs and I'm sure I would feel the same way in hand. Too bad Nitecore and EagleTac can't get the spacing right on these lights like most Fenix lights (L-M-H-Turbo). But that's just my opinion considering the applications I would use this for.
Fenix: PD32UE x2 (sold LD22 x2, LD12, E11 x3) | Nitecore EA4W & EA4 | Zebralight: SC600wII, SC62d, SC52w, H52w, H51w, H600w, H600w II | Olight i3s | L3 Illumination L10 Nichia 219 x2 | Xeno E03 Nichia 219
My A3 should arrive tomorrow. Think I won't have a problem with the spacing, but will see.
"Got a light?" -Well yes, I have
Just received my GX25A3 and already having a problem with it
I put some Eneloops inside, light turns on but start flickering (on all light-mode), after a few second it went off, and didn't turn back on. Have those Eneloops now on charging.
Took some new Duracell alkaline. Lights turns back on. But still flickering, works on low and mid- only high for a few seconds and my A3 turns off again- won't come back on, on those batteries.
Then I took some Duracell 2450mah rechargeable batteries, no flickering and light works on all light-modes. But after twisting some times it goes off again would turn back on but few seconds later goes back off again.
This light comes straight out-of the packaging. What can be the problem???
This is now the second time I have issues with a Eagletac light.
EDIT: have tried other eneloops that normally are in my Fenix TK41 (which runs fine on those batteries(they do have some runtime on them so not 100% fully charged)) and the A3 runs a little bit longer on those, but still after 30-40seconds it goes off and won't turn back on.
Last edited by kj2; 05-03-2013 at 12:13 AM.
"Got a light?" -Well yes, I have
Have other eneloops that are according the smart-charger completely full, and light is at the moment running. No flickering and runs longer than it did
Hope that this was the only issue and that I can enjoy my light now
My light does have some sort of a pre-flash. When I have the light off and turn it on low there is some sort of flash. This not happens on med and high.
edit; problems was purely that my batteries weren't charged enough. Light is running perfectly now
Last edited by kj2; 05-03-2013 at 09:55 PM.
"Got a light?" -Well yes, I have
Mine has that slight preflash when turning on to low also.
Just took it for a test-run I only could say one thing... wauw!
This light is so bright for it's size will takes this light a lot with me. I do wish that it came with a "normal" holster- with a part that protects the bezel/glass.
Was worried that it would slide out while I was driving.
"Got a light?" -Well yes, I have
Ok, my Nitecore EA4 XM-L2 came in the mail yesterday, and I have to say that I'm even more torn now!
Superior build quality. I handed the two to my wife and asked her which felt like a better light. She didn't hesitate picking the GX25A3. Her quote was "this one has a much better hand feel". The knurling on the EagleTac feels great in the hand, and positioning the switch further up the body makes it feel more natural. The head diameter is almost identical between the two lights, but because the EA4 tapers wider at the tail it feels like a bulkier light.
Accessories. The holster for the GX25A3 is in a different class than the EA4. I saw some concern about not liking the "lens-up" style of holster, don't worry about that. The press shots all have the lens up, but the holster is actually designed for Lens-Down. The light fights more snugly this way, and everything is protected. The rigid sides also help prevent accidental switching on, which is great. Tossing in the tail switch was a nice bonus, especially since the light will still tail-stand with the switch.
Switch. The single mode switch is easier to operate, no thinking about "ok, do I half click now or full click", just push the button. Using the head twist to change the brightness means you always turn on in the mode you expected, and if you need a short burst of turbo just hold the button down. The first time I put the EA4 in the holster and dropped it in a cup holder the light turned itself on... I guess that's why they have the "lock-out" mode.
Size. The GX25A3 is smaller. This is especially noticeable in the tail diameter, which makes the light just feel smaller. The differences are not huge, but they are noticeable. Neither is comfortably pocket sized and once they are in a holster the size difference doesn't mean as much I guess. My opinion is that the smaller size makes the light feel more "awesome", but that's completely opinion there.
Turbo Output. In an informal wall hunting last night the EA4 put out more light (not surprising considering 950 vs 915 ANSI lumens). The difference wasn't huge, but the spot and spill sizes were similar and the EA4 looked a bit brighter. If anything it also looked slightly more to the blue-green side than the GX25A3 which wasn't ideal, but was a surprise since I thought I heard the L2 EA4s were tending to come out on the warmer side.
Output Levels. Here is the killer, the EA4 has a much wider selection of outputs. For me, this light is not an EDC item. It is the light I will go to when my EDC can't reach far enough. That means that anything in the 0-50 lumens is redundant for me, and strobe mode will be unused. That leaves the GX25A3 with two outputs 915 and (300/185). The EA4 hangs on to 70, 145, 330, 600, and 950 (the 330 Mid on the EA4 looked slightly brighter than the 300 Medium on the GX25A3 so I'll just guess that the 10% boost from L2 is even across the levels). The bonus is that the EA4 outputs spacing gives the levels a linear feel in the brightness increases, which is nice.
Battery Life. This ties in to the output levels, and in a lot of ways is unfairly skewed by the extra battery in the EA4, but because the lights are very similar in size I think it is fair to mention. Turbo (950/915) EA4=1.75hrs and GX25A3=1.3hrs. High (600/x) EA4=2hrs. Medium (330/300) EA4=4.5hrs GX25A3=3hrs. Low (145/185) EA4=11hrs GX25A3=5hrs. Very Low (70/9) EA4=22hrs GX25A3=100+hrs.
Price. The EA4 XM-L2 is $25 cheaper than the lowest price I could find on the GX25A3. Some of this is obviously reflected in the build quality, the slight bezel gap, the "hand feel", but I don't think that it is a 30% lower quality feeling light.
I think this comes down to usage. If you want the brightest you can buy with the longest burn time at turbo the EA4 might be better (but basically you just get 30% more burn time by putting in 30% more batteries, so this may just be a wash). If you want to have a bunch of lowered brightness options to increase your run time between 150 and 500 lumens, then the EA4 is the clear choice. If you want a candlelight mode that you can run forever (camping light), combined with the availability of a high output spotting light, then the GX25A3 wins. And if you place a high value on the way your light feels, I would say the GX25A3 is a good choice.
I thought I was going to ship the GX25A3 back as soon as the EA4 got here... but now I just can't decide. I might have to keep them both
Nice comparison Bmyton. Those were the differences I kept thinking about when trying to make my decision. The Gx25A3 won out by a little bit. I would love the GX25A3 if they included a medium mode and that cool blue lighted switch for locator and battery. I also still wish the 185 lumen mode was in the normal setting instead of the 300. But it will make due.
The dimensions, size, and build of this light are what I really like. It is very compact but still has a large and deep enough reflector to give a powerful beam with good spill. I think an XML emitter really benefits from a larger reflector and this size is perfect.
Ordered my GX25A3 from J2 in Toronto yesterday and the mailman delivered it today, Super service including John opening the box and checking
over the light. After getting the A6 a month ago, I just had to have the smaller brother, both with L2.
WOW what output, Same UI and build quality with slightly less in house brightness than the A6. My first experience with Eagletac and am impressed to hell.
I like the AA format, I use Energizer Lithium L91 or 2000 mah Eneloops. My other lights are single cell CR123 and am going away from series CR123. My TK35
is going up for sale....the A6 outperforms it anyway!
I can,t understand why despite the variations in features we all as flashaholics want some people can,t seem to get the basics right. I think most will agree what makes the Zebra lights so cool is the UI,s and the side switch (IMO). So I have been looking to add this Eagletac light to my collection quite liking the fact that only 3 x AA cells versus 4 for the Nitecore but the simple fact that I have to use two hands to change modes on the Eagle simply makes me gasp. Yes I like the three cell slimness versus the Nitecore,s four cells but two handed operation? If Nitecore offered three cells then I would sure be interested. Would prefer to carry one of these versus my larger D cell TK 50 but I am holding off. If only Zebralight would get some production going and make some smooth reflector options or throwers.
'AN EDUCATED BUY IS A GOOD BUY'
Anyone know when the S5310 from Zebra is supposed to be out?
Actually it's not hard to change modes with one hand I have found. There are raised areas by the switch and on the other side of the head that allow a thumb and index finger to turn the head. I agree that adding one or two additional output levels would make this light fantastic.
Also waiting for info on the S5310.
I've had a chance to compare my A3 with the A6 at night. Using my TK35 as the reference,I would rank them SX25A6 at 10...TK35 at 9...GX25A3 at 8 for spill brightness and throw.
Since I have both I couldn't resist trying a hybrid version. I put the SX head on the GX and it made a compact light with the 30 sec low voltage flash.
Question...if I use 3x14500 in the A3 body driving the A6 head, would I end up with the ultimate 1000 lumen stubby with reduced run time ?
The reason I do not own nor do I like Zebralights is they have a small cheap shallow op reflector. Eww.
Twisty head's not bad, if you set it at the second level, you can long press the switch to access turbo.
My A6 came buttery smooth, while the A3 needed some knife scraping on the square treads and finishing with a jewellers polishing cloth to get that same smooth head twist.
After another night of comparison, the A3 is definately about 20-25% lower output than the A6.
I am considering adding a new light to my collection. I like the zebralights and also like very much the JetBeam PA40. However, I have often thought I'd like to have an EagleTac light. What puts me off is not the UI, but the output levels. A light that goes from 10 to 300 (or even 185) is a LOT less useful to me than one that included a level around 50 to 100. Odds are the 50 to 100 would be used more than the other levels, at least by me. LIke many others I would buy the mythical ZL 5310 if it actually came out, but I am not waiting for it. I'm sure Eagletac knows their market better than I do, but apparently it doesn't include me. Add another output level and I'll consider it. Otherwise, I think I am still on the fence. IT does look like a nice light, though.