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Thread: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

  1. #61

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Survival in general (and especially in extreme situations) is a problem-solving game. Problem-solving is a skills + mindset issue, and "stuff" (which includes flashlights) provide the materials to work with. Aka options. So more stuff = more possible ways to do things when SHTF.

    For example redundancy: many mentioned the ubiquitous AA battery, and having a few AA lights at least makes sense. But in a similar way, it would make sense to have backup lights using many different battery sizes. That way: scavenged a battery (any battery) somewhere -> have a light to put it in.

    Likewise for backup power sources: a big pile of AA's -> all that power is stuck into AA cells. For me, a couple of chargers that take 12V DC in + a car battery (or some setup like that) makes more sense. A car battery's 12V can easily be put to other uses, a big stack of AA's... well yeah if you're creative. This is one reason I always try to buy battery chargers that take 12V DC input. Makes the charger portable, useable from a car's cigarette lighter, solar panel, whatever.

    But tbh, lighting is pretty far down on the list in extreme situations. Water, food, shelter, heating, cooking, clothing, transportation, comms, ...

  2. #62

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    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Quote Originally Posted by RetroTechie View Post
    But tbh, lighting is pretty far down on the list in extreme situations. Water, food, shelter, heating, cooking, clothing, transportation, comms, ...
    Totally agree with most of your points - versatility and a range of options is best.

    Gonna have to disagree about your priority list, though, depending on the situation. Not every scenario is armageddon - stuff like car accidents, house fires, medical emergencies, etc, are all REAL situations that occur with some frequency. And if they happen to occur in the dark, a single light might just save a life. For long term, zombie apocalypse (or EMP, nuclear war, etc.) scenarios, I agree lighting is way down the list. But if that's all you prepare for, your priorities are all wrong.

  3. #63
    Flashaholic* Dave D's Avatar
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    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    I like the setup in the below thread, well thought out and gives you plenty of options.

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ashlight-setup

  4. #64

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    I have many levels of solar kits. Being in Colorado with over 300 sunny days a year it's a great option (although not an only option as you can always have an extended period of bad weather). I like the Powerfilm AA or AA+USB kits for pocket carry and their charging in less optimal conditions. I like the Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus kit for backpacking and such as it adds strong USB support for smartphones and tablets. I have a G0 Sherpa 50 setup for more extended camping outings. Then for emergency use in home/car/plane I have some Powerenz LiPo 16 and LiPo 48 setups and for pure home use a Wagan Powercube 1500. Tried a lot of solar stuff over the years but these are my favorites.

    Goal Zero is great for their kits and strong sun performance. powerfilm is great for being lightweight and weak sun performance, and Powerenz is great for thier hard case LiPo kits. Goal zero has been having some huge sales this holiday season too.
    Pretty cool! I'm seeing a guy who's kids will make it to if not thru the bottleneck with torch in hand!

    The powerfilm are interesting the way they connect the cells in parallel in order to avoid the volt drop from even minimal shade that comes with the normal series string of mono/poly crystallin type like Goal Zero. But you lose when good sun. Myself I think I'd lean toward the non amorphous type GZ as long as is the right season cause if mobile you have more freedom to put the panel anywhere you want as not tied to a rack and if is the wrong season no panel will give you anything.

    Have you by any chance done any real world comparison between these two types? Would be interesting to know the results. Would be tough to do accurately maybe. 2 outfits don't make panels of xact same wattage so you'd have to break it down by watt. Possible for the obsessed though.

    If you get a chance could you report on what kind of voltages are stamped on the back of the panels from any manufacturers you own? If I remember right from long ago it's normal to have 2 listings. Open circuit voltage and rated voltage and both are important if you're going to jury rig stuff which is my nonmobile inclination. One thing to figure is if you could use their controller with a standard 12v panel which has ocv of around 21 v and rated 18v and of course could you safely use much higher wattage panels.

    Ever played around with charging small cells directly off a panel with no controller?

    Another thought was thinking of trying to hook a Maha 9000 directly to panel. You're supposed to hook maha to a 12 volt battery and seems a little unlikely it would survive the high voltages mentioned above coming off a normal panel but maybe. Or maybe put some voltage regulation in the way like a LM333

    Sorry if this is a bit off topic but you can't run lights (or many other items) without power.
    Not off topic at all. Batteries are the foundation, obviously. Would say to Jash (post# 48) that it seems like one could keep eneloops going for 3 or 4 decades. LI-ions also maybe, but less sure about them. Anyone Know?
    Last edited by larcal; 12-24-2013 at 11:17 PM.

  5. #65

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Quote Originally Posted by reppans View Post
    FWIW, I like running my Quark X on a single AA tube with 14500s or 3v CRAAs for EDC pocket-ability. Also makes it easier to scavenge AAAs and 9Vs with MacGyver tinfoil. I have several of the aftermarket headbands (Malkoff, Nitecore, Fenix, 47s prism) and would rate them in the same order. MK and NC mount on the top strap (NC maybe tight if you wear a large hat). However, as minimalist EDC type, I usually never have a headband when I need it, so I tend to use my walletable lantern diffuser and necklamp cord for hands-free most of the time (pix on my original post), or just clip and roll my light in my shirt collar under my ear for short term hands free... works for me.
    You're absolutey right about the Quark and you've done a real service by stressing it's advantages. I especially like the 18650 choice. And as you say elsewhere, one thing you have to have is a moon light capability. It's actually the moonlight that veered me off Quark originally tho because in normal times I'm not minimalist enough to use it and hated the thought of allways having to scroll past it constantly. But times have changed and so. gotta do it. Maybe I'll love it. Did invest in the ld20 on your advice in another thread as most durable.

    And how about that?. Was told by a guy higher up food chain at a fenix seller that the reason they moved to the ld22 style was because surefire is sueing them for copying their shit and found couple of stories online backing that up. He said Quark was too small potatoes to bother with.

    Maybe going to take a risk on a zebralight H52fw. Or not. Have you seen the specs on that sucker? XTL-2 Damn! And much improved moonlight modes over 51 and 502 also. Lower then Quark even. But I know, the switch, etc. Even more stupid then buying it is buying the first run probably but it's winter and best time to give it a workout. Really want a better headlamp and the Spark looks worse then Zebra QC wise. Their new version SG5 was released with a holder that's too lose. Light revolves on you. Obvious they don't give a dam.

    That ST5 looked sweet tho. Like that T shape for one thing and also XML-2 for long battery life. Might of tried it if the new SG5 wasn't so crappy.

    Quark tactical looks good cause in normal times us hedonists could program it to avoid moon mode and wondered if you tried it. Guessing you feel it's more techy so more breakable? And haven't looked yet at it's legoability and too beat to go back there now. Is it?
    Last edited by larcal; 01-04-2014 at 08:02 PM.

  6. #66
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    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Quote Originally Posted by larcal View Post
    Pretty cool! I'm seeing a guy who's kids will make it to if not thru the bottleneck with torch in hand!

    The powerfilm are interesting the way they connect the cells in parallel in order to avoid the volt drop from even minimal shade that comes with the normal series string of mono/poly crystallin type like Goal Zero. But you lose when good sun. Myself I think I'd lean toward the non amorphous type GZ as long as is the right season cause if mobile you have more freedom to put the panel anywhere you want as not tied to a rack and if is the wrong season no panel will give you anything.

    Have you by any chance done any real world comparison between these two types? Would e interesting to know the results. Would be tough to do accurately maybe. 2 outfits don't make panels of xact same wattage so you'd have to break it down by watt. Possible for the obsessed though.

    If you get a chance could you report on what kind of voltages are stamped on the back of the panels from any manufacturers you own? If I remember right from long ago it's normal to have 2 listings. Open circuit voltage and rated voltage and both are important if you're going to jury rig stuff which is my nonmobile inclination. One thing to figure is if you could use their controller with a standard 12v panel which has ocv of around 21 v and rated 18v and of course could you safely use much higher wattage panels.

    Ever played around with charging small cells directly off a panel with no controller?

    Another thought was thinking of trying to hook a Maha 9000 directly to panel. You're supposed to hook maha to a 12 volt battery and seems a little unlikely it would survive the high voltages mentioned above coming off a normal panel but maybe. Or maybe put some voltage regulation in the way like a LM333



    Not off topic at all. Batteries are the foundation, obviously. Would say to Jash (post# 48) that it seems like one could keep eneloops going for 3 or 4 decades. LI-ions also maybe, but less sure about them. Anyone Know?
    Unfortunately all my solar panels are in finished commercial products so no good way to disassemble things to see markings on the back of the panels. At most I have the manufacturers spec and those outputs are almost all regulated in the units I have as I took some pains to select units that would be comparable so they could be combined for faster charging. The two common outputs in most of my units are 5v and 12v where the 5 is really 5 but the 12 is typically 14-15. Raw output (based on specs I've seen) can easily be in the 18-24v range on larger panels so regulation is a good idea.

    The problem with using an unregulated panel or not using a battery of some kind as a float/store is the output of the panels is always fluctuating and many devices stop charging below a specific input level and take some time to start again once the input level is back above the threshold. This can considerably extend charging time or confuse the device horribly.

    The smaller panels I choose charge batteries and then the batteries provide a boosted/regulated current to charge other devices. This results in faster charging of the devices and allows you to use that stored power outside of peak lighting periods. Some of my bigger panels like the Guide 13 or Guide 27 typically have enough oomph to stay above the charging thresholds of the devices I power with them but the smaller ones really need cells to smooth output.

    When I first get a panel I'll use a multimeter on its various outputs to make sure it's within spec and that nothing's obviously broken. Then I'll use it to charge a fully drained device under fairly ideal conditions and make sure the charge time is proportional to its rating vs the charge time with other devices I have and their rating. It's just a sniff test to make sure nothings significantly out of spec or broken as I don't have very controlled conditions. So far everything been pretty close to the proportions of the rated output in watts. But high altitude sun in Colorado is pretty strong stuff and folks at sea level may see a considerable difference. Maybe for the better in something from Powerfilm or worse for something from Goal Zero.

  7. #67

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Unfortunately all my solar panels are in finished commercial products so no good way to disassemble things to see markings on the back of the panels.

    Lost. What are these products? You said you carry the Powerfilm foldup aa and also use GZ for backpacking so the panels would be by themselves not built in to or integral to some larger structure and so certainly have exposed backs for viewing.


    Which panel only produces 5 volts? This surprises me.


    Whether you have a phone battery or a pack of 4 aa or whatever don't get why it is faster to first charge a base battery which then charges your 4 aa, doubling your charging load/time and efficiency losses to boot.


    Both these companies panels are meant to be combined with a charge control of course. The powerfilm 2aa is 2 watts I think and comes with its own integral control. The bigger ones recomend using the RA-3 control which holds 4 aa. Can't remember what GZ uses. The people that answer the phone at these places known nothing however and bar you from contacting anyone who might. For example, when I asked if I could hook up a 50 watt panel safely to the RA-3 just because that's what I had around they didn't know


    Raw output (based on specs I've seen) can easily be in the 18-24v range on larger panels so regulation is a good idea.
    Yep, this is one thing was wondering about. If range up to 24v ocv and rated v of 17-18 then they are normal solar panels which means for instance that Powerfilm's RA-3 controller can handle such voltages and I could use my own panels or much cheaper ones with the RA-3 as long as didn't excede wattage limit whatever that is but that's another subject.

    If you have GZ 13 or 27 it would be written on back. Any of your panels. A UL requirement that they do so

    Thinking I just confused things by throwing in that speculation about running a Maha charger direct off panel or even making one's own cgarge control. Kind of a different subject tho related. Was just curious and thought you or someone else reading this might have tried it or heard. My apologies.

  8. #68

    Default Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Quote Originally Posted by larcal View Post
    You're absolutey right about the Quark and you've done a real service by stressing it's advantages. I especially like the 18650 choice. And as you say elsewhere, one thing you have to have is a moon light capability. It's actually the moonlight that veered me off Quark originally tho because in normal times I'm not minimalist enough to use it and hated the thought of allways having to scroll past it constantly. But sigh, Teotwawki. Gotta do it. maybe I'll love it. Did invest in the ld20 on your advice in another thread as most durable.

    And how about that?. Was told by a guy higher up food chain at a fenix seller that the reason they moved to the ld22 style was because surefire is sueing them for copying their shit and found couple of stories online backing that up. He said Quark was too small potatoes to bother with.

    Maybe going to take a risk on a zebralight H52fw. Or not. Have you seen the specs on that sucker? XTL-2 Damn! And much improved moonlight modes over 51 and 502 also. Lower then Quark even. But I know, the switch, etc. Even more stupid then buying it is buying the first run probably but it's winter and best time to give it a workout. Really want a better headlamp and the Spark looks worse then Zebra QC wise. Their new version SG5 was released with a holder that's too lose. Light revolves on you. Obvious they don't give a dam.

    That ST5 looked sweet tho. Like that T shape for one thing and also XML-2 for long battery life. Might of tried it if the new SG5 wasn't so crappy.

    Quark tactical looks good cause in normal times us hedonists could program it to avoid moon mode and wondered if you tried it. Guessing you feel it's more techy so more breakable? And haven't looked yet at it's legoability and too beat to go back there now. Is it?
    Quarks won't fit 18650 cells, just up to 17670 size. Although in a pinch (this being a SHTF thread), I can run the 18650, and many more cells, with the piece MacGyver tinfoil I EDC. I prefer the low voltage XML head since it has the "brightest" moonlight mode in my collection, yet is good for ~200 hrs per AA. I seem to be the low lumen junkie around CPF and use 0.3/3 lms about 40/40% of the time. I guess I have good night vision, which I always prefer to use since it allows me to see my environment much better outside of my light's beam. The minimalist bulk and insanely long runtimes on that lumen mix are just bonuses. That said, I really don't like dimmer moonlight modes, or XPG emitters, because they not bright enough and/or are too throwy for most of my general purpose close task work.

    Never owned a Fenix since the don't match my priorities (sub-lumen, floody, wide voltage/battery tolerance). BTW, AFAIK, the SF suit was on using anodized lockout tailcaps, and it did hit 47s as well - the decision to go with electronic side switch just seems to be the rage now, perhaps at the expense of reliability. Don't get me started on ZL specs.... as I mention in the other thread, that company's marketing, warranty and CS policies make my skin crawl and both my ZLs have disappointed me when their lights fell way short of their claims (and by a factor of 2-5x on my favorite modes). I test with a light meter and stop watch and follow others efficiency testing. I find my QAAX, D25A and SC52 to be more or less equally efficient on a lumen-hr basis, and probably so would be the LD12 if I extrapolate Selfbuilt's tests. However, the lumen-hr marketing claims between the QAAX/D25A and SC52/LD12 differ by almost a factor of 2x - do you really think they've figured out how to be twice as efficient? Conservatism comes into play and ANSI rules are wide enough to drive a truck through - you learn where the games are played, and who plays them.

    I'm a camper, and came from a headlamp background, but am not a fan of them anymore (partially due to its single purpose bulk and partially due to limited selection) and prefer to use flashlights in aftermarket or DIY head/neck band rigs. ZL, Spark, and Fenix headlamps seem to be only good ones I would consider, but you know my lighting priorities and corporate policy issues (Spark~=ZL).

    I have tactical UIs - all the electronics/programming is in the head, it's a long proven design, and will be no better/worse than the regular interface in terms of reliability. But you can see from my above usage pattern that getting locked into two modes at a time is not ideal for me. Also, the pro interface does a few things better - it has a momentary max function from any lower mode that works like car high beam flashers (my favorite pseudo-feature of any light), and it works better with MacGyvering different sized cells in a pinch.

    I also own both the Powerfilm 6 panel 4xAA and Goal Zero Guide 10+/Nomad 7 kits that Jim discusses, and both measure 80 sq inches of panel area, and I have tested both side-by-side in varying conditions using a MHC9000 to measure cell capacity. The short summary is that the GZ is twice a efficient in perfect conditions and the PF is twice as efficient in imperfect conditions, but to put it in perspective, the GZ does 60mph while the PF does 30 in perfect sun, and the PF does 10 mph while the GZ does 5 in imperfect sun. In the heavily forested Eastcoast, that means solar it's really only effective for stationary charging in 10am-2pm timeframe where I can fully charge 4 Eneloops from the GZ or 2 from the PF. That's emergency use only IMHO. GZ is the way to go for home or base camp charging, but I only take the PF if traveling by 2 feet or two wheels as it's ~1/4 the bulk. Also I like how the PF can charge 2 or 4 cells.... as battery conservative as I am, it's hard for me to come up with 4 cells, and you get more cell balancing issues.

    Hope that helps... I do enjoy discussing the SHTF thing, and with the crazy weather lately, we tend to lose power at least a solid week per year now. My experience primarily comes from camping, which I believe will be reasonably close to a SHTF lifestyle... for a while at least.

  9. #69
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    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Quote Originally Posted by larcal View Post
    Lost. What are these products? You said you carry the Powerfilm foldup aa and also use GZ for backpacking so the panels would be by themselves not built in to or integral to some larger structure and so certainly have exposed backs for viewing.


    Which panel only produces 5 volts? This surprises me.


    Whether you have a phone battery or a pack of 4 aa or whatever don't get why it is faster to first charge a base battery which then charges your 4 aa, doubling your charging load/time and efficiency losses to boot.


    Both these companies panels are meant to be combined with a charge control of course. The powerfilm 2aa is 2 watts I think and comes with its own integral control. The bigger ones recomend using the RA-3 control which holds 4 aa. Can't remember what GZ uses. The people that answer the phone at these places known nothing however and bar you from contacting anyone who might. For example, when I asked if I could hook up a 50 watt panel safely to the RA-3 just because that's what I had around they didn't know




    Yep, this is one thing was wondering about. If range up to 24v ocv and rated v of 17-18 then they are normal solar panels which means for instance that Powerfilm's RA-3 controller can handle such voltages and I could use my own panels or much cheaper ones with the RA-3 as long as didn't excede wattage limit whatever that is but that's another subject.

    If you have GZ 13 or 27 it would be written on back. Any of your panels. A UL requirement that they do so

    Thinking I just confused things by throwing in that speculation about running a Maha charger direct off panel or even making one's own cgarge control. Kind of a different subject tho related. Was just curious and thought you or someone else reading this might have tried it or heard. My apologies.
    Take a look at the pictures I posted earlier in this thread of the Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus Kit, Powerfilm AA Kit and Powerfilm AA+USB kit. No naked panels, they are all sewn/glued into nylon carriers along with any control electronics, connectors, and in the case of the Powerfilm kits, battery holders. No useful labeling beyond "AA", "USB", "12V", "CHAIN" type things. No "UL" rating. This is pretty consistent across all solar products I've purchased. Getting panel specs in panels for finished products has been pretty fruitless for me so I fell back to products with regulated 12v and or 5v outputs I could rely on for compatibility (less efficient I know).

    There are no 5V panels but the PowerFilm AA+USB and Guide10Plus and Sherpa50 kits have 5v regulated USB outputs. Those with 12v outputs seem to be regulated in the 14v range. Those with panel chaining output connectors are proprietary and unspecified and I haven't measured the outputs on them as the connectors are so small as to defy my multimeter probes (unless I want to pierce insulation which I don't)

    The USB+AA unit doesn't produce enough output to charge any USB device directly so it charges the 2xAA which then produce enough output to charge some lower powered USB devices. There is no USB charging capability without the charged batteries in place in this unit and its limited to smaller smartphones on down. This is similar to the BioLite stoves.

    The AA unit has no outputs at all other than the battery carrier which can charge 2 or 4 AAs (or AAAs via two included adapter cells).

    The Guide10Plus unit has a USB output on the panel that works (at peak output) for lower powered USB devices up to some smart phones. But not enough for some smartphones or most tablets so again you charge a 4AA pack through a 12v outlet which then powers a USB port (can be charging the pack through 12v while discharging it through USB at the same time). The Sherpa 50 kit is a bit better as its 14w panel will directly charge most USB devices fairly well even with the occasional light cloud passing overhead. The Guide27 panel only has a 12v output.

    Most USB devices require a minimum current to charge and whenever the input drops below that they stop charging. So if a cloud passes overhead or sun angle gets bad, the USB device stops charging and you are wasting the panels output. If you use some sort of power pack (that doesn't have a charge threshold) as an intermediary the power pack will continue charging and not wasting the panels output and the USB device will continue to charge (making the charging process faster and more effecient).

    Both the Guide14 and Guide27 panels are just like all the other G0 panels sealed in nylon carriers/wallets with their electronics and no technical specifications, UL rating etc. Just idiot proof markings like "12V", "USB", "CHAIN" etc.

    Hope this answers all your questions

  10. #70

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    For SHTF scenarios, I base them on things like Katrina, or Sandy.

    The collapse of modern society as we know it, the zombie apocalypse, and so on are so monumentally all-encompassing that modeling hypotheticals is really nothing more than guessing, fantasizing, and wishful thinking.

    I have a couple of Malkoff M61LLL and LLLL modules. That's 30+ hours of light on two batteries. I have 30-odd CR123s in the house. I have a couple of firefly and low mode AA lights and a jumbo pack of AAs. (I also have a Malkoff M31LL w/ a high/low ring rigged for two AAs. I'm still surprised he hasn't done a run of M31LLLs or M31LLLLs yet.)

    I will run out of food and water before I run out of artificial light. Granted, this assumes I'm in an urban environment - my apartment, and in-doors. Although the M61LLL puts out more than enough light for casual use outside as well.
    "We canít just go with MBAV because itís out there and battle-proven." - Fred Coppola, deputy project manager for Soldier Protection and Individual Equipment

  11. #71

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    The short summary is that the GZ is twice a efficient in perfect conditions and the PF is twice as efficient in imperfect conditions, but to put it in perspective, the GZ does 60mph while the PF does 30 in perfect sun, and the PF does 10 mph while the GZ does 5 in imperfect sun
    All very good, but especially like the clarity and succinctness of the above

    Anyway, here's a toast to minimalism!
    Last edited by larcal; 01-04-2014 at 07:51 PM.

  12. #72
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    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Quote Originally Posted by MatthewSB View Post
    This is what I don't get. Most people who "prepare" lack a realistic idea of what they are preparing for. Look at people in other countries dealing with real SHTF type events - most have very very little in the form of "gear" but survive somehow.

    Flashlights are great, like knives and canteens, but you have to know how to function without one. Anyone who can't figure out how to make a fire without matches or a lighter, or build a shelter to stay warm without a tent is pretty screwed if they are ever seperated from their equipment through loss, confiscation, theft, or a simple accident. There are Primitive Skills clubs all over, whose members are extremely helpful to people wanting to learn.

    In reality, people assume running away from other people is the best option. However, for just $300, I can tell you about a few tools, that will keep everyone around you alive as far as food and hydration are concern. A hand powered juicer for starts, this turns all inedible plants into edible plants. That being said, you have to know which plants won't kill you, which can be easily figured out through a field guide manual about plants. You can juice Pine needles AND grass for example, as both of these plants carry nutrients our bodies will digest, but we lack the enzymes to digest them as raw foods. Grass can even be harvested in the winter. Assuming you will need to kill people is a foolish concept. If I have knowledge to provide anyone I face with nutrition, I'm sure my life will become worth something to them.

  13. #73

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Quote Originally Posted by TMedina View Post
    For SHTF scenarios, I base them on things like Katrina, or Sandy.

    The collapse of modern society as we know it, the zombie apocalypse, and so on are so monumentally all-encompassing that modeling hypotheticals is really nothing more than guessing, fantasizing, and wishful thinking.

    I have a couple of Malkoff M61LLL and LLLL modules. That's 30+ hours of light on two batteries. I have 30-odd CR123s in the house. I have a couple of firefly and low mode AA lights and a jumbo pack of AAs. (I also have a Malkoff M31LL w/ a high/low ring rigged for two AAs. I'm still surprised he hasn't done a run of M31LLLs or M31LLLLs yet.)

    I will run out of food and water before I run out of artificial light. Granted, this assumes I'm in an urban environment - my apartment, and in-doors. Although the M61LLL puts out more than enough light for casual use outside as well.
    This is probably the most well rounded solution in the thread. It doesn't take much of an investment to buy 50 CR123 primaries, a Malkoff LLL or LLLL unit, and a Surefire G2 or 6P. This will be enough light to get almost every American through almost every reasonably possible scenario. Even in Katrina they went what, a month without power? 50 primaries and a LLLL unit will get you 500 hours of light. That's 20 days of straight light.

    I personally have a FourSevens Quark Pro which can last for several days on moonlight mode, as well as a Surefire 6P with a M61 219 LLLL module. I'm good to go.

  14. #74

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    For SHTF and no Surefire batteries? I have LED AA lights that will burn a AA down to nothing. I use solar chargers and can keep powering up as long as the sun is bright for charging.

  15. #75
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    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    For what it's worth, My pick was the Fenix TK41. I chose this for the extremely long run time and it's use of standard AA's batteries. I can go to Costco and get a 48 pack of Kirkland AA's for very little cost (I think it was $13?). It has already gotten me though what some might call SHTF encounters. In any event, it is bright enough to vaporize any Zombies that I might encounter...

  16. #76

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Maybe you should spend a little more time here reading?
    Many of us place a really high value on runtime performance over output and work to create a balanced plan to support that.

    I might be wrong but if you want to sell things here this is not really the place for it?

    Quote of apparent spam removed....Bill
    Last edited by Bullzeyebill; 02-26-2016 at 04:46 PM. Reason: Reference to spam post

  17. #77

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    I've decided to just stock a ton of CR123 primaries and have the following lights on hand:
    L1 (gen 6)
    E2L
    LX2
    E1B

  18. #78
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    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    A combination of CR123's, AA's and Li-ions... and capability to recharge through solar power for the Li-ions. Flashlight -- mostly Surefires (and Malkoff) for reliability. All others are support/backup. Most of my lights will run on either 18650/16650 and 2xCR123. So loading up with CR123's is way to go.
    Last edited by xdayv; 03-08-2016 at 01:10 AM.
    Dave
    "two is one, one is none... three or more is fun."

  19. #79

    Default Re: Best SHTF/survival flashlight? And setup

    Hey, fwiw also consider getting a few of the humble 1 watt Nite-Ize conversion bulbs.
    I recently pulled the one I have out of a drawer and tried it on a single AAA that was basically full voltage but leaking/corroded. It ran over 36 hours, very dimly at the end, but it gave light!
    The voltage input is supposed to be 2-6 alkaline cells, 3-9 volts, but on 1.5V it ran fine, and gave moonlight till there was nothing left.
    It Also dimly lit from a 9v that my Paklite wouldn't light up on, and I thought that was pretty impressive.
    These are tiny bulbs, you could carry two and never know they were there until you, or someone else needed them.
    With 2 in series they would easily run on 12v as c well and be in the middle of their intended voltage range.
    Mad Max would love these things, I halfway think you could get light out of them with some copper and tin strips stuck in a potato. .
    The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.

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