3M Advanced LED

idleprocess

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Seen some mention of this model, but recall nor found no dedicated threads.

I was always curious about the 3M bulb, never saw one on Wal-Mart shelves, and since they didn't make very clear what "cool white" was I assumed it was 5000K like everyone else. Then I actually looked at the specs and was that it was my preferred color - 4000K. $25 and a trip to Wal-Mart later placed one in my hands.

At $25, the price is too high in today's market. Their choice of Wal-Mart as their sole retail partner further aggravates this problem since Wal-Mart is a discount retailer. Its competition on the 4' section of shelving reserved for LED bulbs at Wal-Mart consisted of garbage Lights of America bulbs priced to compete with CFL, somewhat better Feit Electric bulbs I'm not so trusting of, and the always-pricey GE bulbs collecting dust at $35-$40 each.

3M clearly isn't accustomed to selling consumer products that aren't Post-It™ notes or other semi-commodity consumables. The packaging is eye-catching, but easily damaged - the outer paperboard is a bit too thin for what they are trying to pull off. The front has the basic information, but the back is full of uninteresting regulatory junk. Thankfully, once the outer shell has been removed, the plastic shell can be flipped open without risking injury slicing open a dreaded welded clamshell. If you don't like it, it's easily returned to its package in pristine condition ... which might explain the wrinkles in the box on my sample.

The bulb is quite heavy - probably the heaviest I've seen - which is surprising since the lack of a prominent heatsink was one claim I read somewhere. There is a seam along the equator of the outer envelope that's not particularly appealing that I suspect will separate should the bulb drop from some height onto a hard surface. As was mentioned elsewhere, the lettering on the top of the bulb is almost impossible to read. Somewhat easily legible is an ETL certification stamp - something most consumers won't recognize, unlike UL or even CSA - which begs some questions about its certifications.

Operating in an overhead fixture with a ~150 degree "hood" reflector, it produces a very uniform output. I only noticed the speckle pattern from the fiber optic diffuser when holding up an object very close to the bulb. Light color was roughly the same as the 4000K LED tape accent lighting I installed elsewhere in the kitchen. I found the color rendering satisfactory. After a few minutes' operation the base got a bit warm, but not alarmingly so.

Efficiency is nothing special relative to newer models on the market - 800 lumens, 13.5 watts for 59.3 lumens per watt. I would not be surprised if these are closed out soon since they're apparently not flying off the shelves and in danger of obsolescence.

IMG_20130426_171224_zpsd11ca750.jpg

Exposure here is somewhere between the sensor getting flooded and dialing back. The banding against the reflector is a camera artifact.

IMG_20130426_171242_zps318e235f.jpg

With exposure cranked all the way down, you can see the light guides at work. Looking at it with your own eyes it's almost impossible to see the cooling vents - the speckled pattern isn't visible at all although if you squint the relative brightness differences are apparent. Again, the banding in the background is a camera artifact.

Using the cover of A Day with Wilbur Robinson as a reference, I took a few pictures to test color rendition with varying white balances. Note that the linked image isn't the best representation - hit up Amazon for something closer to what it should look like.

IMG_20130426_171330_zpsd2c28e4d.jpg

Auto ... or florescent - they both exposed nearly identical

IMG_20130426_171445_zps9df06abd.jpg

Incandescent

IMG_20130426_171430_1_zps718c3edf.jpg

Sunlight

Of the three exposures, my eyes saw it as something between "incandescent" and "auto/florescent", incandescent being dominant. The "Sunlight" exposure isn't even close.
 
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PhotonWrangler

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Great writeup and pictures, Idleprocess. Thanks! I have the 3000k version but I agree with everything in your review. Out of curiosity, does the lumens rating printed along the base of the bulb match the claimed lumens rating on the packaging? Mine doesn't.
 
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LEDAdd1ct

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Thanks for the review.

The 3M bulb is one I was curious about but never played with.

There is a neat video floating out there somewhere; if I find it I'll post it here for everybody.
 

idleprocess

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After approx 18 hours' operation in a base-up hooded fixture, the plastic "globe" gets decidedly warm, but not to the point that one cannot handle the bulb.

Great writeup and pictures, Idleprocess. Thanks! I have the 3000k version but I agree with everything in your review. Out of curiosity, does the lumens rating printed along the base of the bulb match the claimed lumens rating on the packaging? Mine doesn't.

800 lumens printed on both the package and the device.



Perhaps later today I'll clean up the table under the light and do some better control shots - maybe cycle the entire collection through the fixture. In hindsight, I could have picked a subject with better color balance (less blue and green), but that book was immediately available and had an OK color gamut.

EDIT ... Went and took the pics, but now photobucket doesn't want to cooperate. Argh.
 
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idleprocess

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Looks like 120 Hz flicker. Does this camera artifact occur with incandescent bulbs?

Here are the direct bulb shots of all the samples from my other thread:

Incandescent:
IMG_20130427_143006_zps27605d33.jpg


CFL:
IMG_20130427_143349_zpsbcfd47d8.jpg


LSG 3000K "40W":
IMG_20130427_143600_zps0af0a348.jpg


Philips AmbientLED 2700K:
IMG_20130427_143912_zps15eb4bbc.jpg


UtiliTech PRO 2700K:
IMG_20130427_145020_zps24647ed3.jpg


3M Advanced LED 4000K:
IMG_20130427_144153_zps4eb6b6ea.jpg


LSG 5000K "40W":
IMG_20130427_144435_zps64c81dda.jpg


Cree 5000K "60W":
IMG_20130427_144631_zps66a661f8.jpg
 

Arilou

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Here are the direct bulb shots of all the samples from my other thread:
Yeah, the flicker of the bulbs shows up as horizontal bands as your camera scans the image from top to bottom. It's visible in several of the images. It seems many LED bulbs on the market have this problem. I guess that's not surprising given the incentive to cut costs.
 

idleprocess

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Yeah, the flicker of the bulbs shows up as horizontal bands as your camera scans the image from top to bottom. It's visible in several of the images. It seems many LED bulbs on the market have this problem. I guess that's not surprising given the incentive to cut costs.

All the "cool" LED's seem to feature it. The bands remained stationary when I was photographing the bulbs in the fixture - thought it had something to do with the sensor dialing back its sensitivity so as not to be flooded out.. I did notice an extremely slow screen crawl on one (the LSG 5000K or Cree - don't remember which) when photographing the test subject.
 

PhotonWrangler

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Thanks for the photos, Idleprocess. It's surprising to see how many of them show ripple artifacts. I'm also surprised to see that the Utilitech Pro 2700 showed no power supply hum at all. Normally I'd expect the lower priced brands to have poorer filtering so this was impressive.
 

Arilou

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All the "cool" LED's seem to feature it. The bands remained stationary when I was photographing the bulbs in the fixture - thought it had something to do with the sensor dialing back its sensitivity so as not to be flooded out.. I did notice an extremely slow screen crawl on one (the LSG 5000K or Cree - don't remember which) when photographing the test subject.

It has to do with the power supply and not the type of LED. The 120Hz ripple is caused by the bridge rectifier. The 2700K Cree has the same problem as the 5000K.

If the flicker frequency is an exact multiple of the camera's frame rate then the pattern will be stable. If it is slightly different then it will shift slowly. You can see the slow crawl in this video (look at the last scene): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1DuVDD8Nmc

If you're looking for bulbs without this problem, I listed a few recommendations in this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...4-Philips-Award-Winning-LED-Bulb-Review/page3
 

idleprocess

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It has to do with the power supply and not the type of LED. The 120Hz ripple is caused by the bridge rectifier. The 2700K Cree has the same problem as the 5000K.

If the flicker frequency is an exact multiple of the camera's frame rate then the pattern will be stable. If it is slightly different then it will shift slowly. You can see the slow crawl in this video (look at the last scene): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1DuVDD8Nmc

If you're looking for bulbs without this problem, I listed a few recommendations in this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...4-Philips-Award-Winning-LED-Bulb-Review/page3

Perhaps if I put one in a trouble light and spun it around by the cord it would be apparent, but I don't even notice it in normal use so it's not an issue for me.
 

SemiMan

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It has to do with the power supply and not the type of LED. The 120Hz ripple is caused by the bridge rectifier. [/URL]


It has to do with the fact the power is rectified, but the existence of a bridge rectifier is a mute point and the existence (or lack) of flicker is a deeper issue.


The issue may be getting worse due to a convergence of reducing bulb cost coupled with Energy Star requirements for high power factor.

Smaller capacitors on the output reduce the cost of the bulb (especially when the caps are adequately rated for the operational temperature).

Energy Star calls for high power factor. That requires drawing power from the AC line for as much of the waveform as possible. Unfortunately that is also easier to some degree with a smaller capacitor on the output and input as it aids in drawing power from the line through as much of the waveform as possible. You could see flicker due to a small output capacitor discharging, but could also see flicker due to a small input capacitor discharging and impacting load regulation.

Semiman
 

AnAppleSnail

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The 'dark' parts of the ripple pattern still show up in the camera. Unless this is a rather extreme HDR, the dynamic range between the 'bright' and 'dark' parts of the output are very small to the eye.
 

idleprocess

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The 'dark' parts of the ripple pattern still show up in the camera. Unless this is a rather extreme HDR, the dynamic range between the 'bright' and 'dark' parts of the output are very small to the eye.

I pointed the camera at the fixture, waited a second or two for it to dial back exposure from near-100% washout to something usable, then putzed with centering the shot so as to try to represent relative surface brightness and bulb features/shape/etc. It's hardly an exact science.
 

AnAppleSnail

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I pointed the camera at the fixture, waited a second or two for it to dial back exposure from near-100% washout to something usable, then putzed with centering the shot so as to try to represent relative surface brightness and bulb features/shape/etc. It's hardly an exact science.
Indeed. But unless you personally fiddled with some advanced camera techniques, your camera would show dark black if there was a great dynamic range from bright to dark. It's probably of a bright/dim than an on/off, but I would need your shutter speeds to tell for sure. I'm just noting that the effect is likely more of a 60/120hz glimmer than a real flicker.
 

idleprocess

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Indeed. But unless you personally fiddled with some advanced camera techniques, your camera would show dark black if there was a great dynamic range from bright to dark. It's probably of a bright/dim than an on/off, but I would need your shutter speeds to tell for sure. I'm just noting that the effect is likely more of a 60/120hz glimmer than a real flicker.

Looks like the EXIF data is more or less intact if you want to muck around with it.
 

SemiMan

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I am a little surprised by how dark the dark areas are for the 3M bulb and LSG bulb. Unless there is some wicked gamma on the camera, it looks like the output is dropping considerably (assuming flicker).

FYI, I bought a Cree bulb in the States when I was down at Ligthfair and brought it back ... and it does not work. Of course found out when I got back that Home Depot is stocking them in Canada now at a few more dollars. I will pick one up in the next few days for flicker tests.

I have an integrated detector that has a photopic curve, but it looks like the output is too slow for a flicker test so I will just have to go with a standard photodiode which negates doing a test on an incandescent/halogen as a reference.

Some quick testing today showed the Philips 12.5W Ambient LED and a similar output LG bulb with no detectable flicker (or at least below my measurement threshold). A no name Chinese import bulb was <5%. A bunch of CFLs in the 5% range. Once I set up better and get the Cree bulb I will post the results in its own thread.

Semiman
 

idleprocess

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I am a little surprised by how dark the dark areas are for the 3M bulb and LSG bulb. Unless there is some wicked gamma on the camera, it looks like the output is dropping considerably (assuming flicker).
Camera is doing some sort of trickery to try to render a comprehensible image. The 3M bulb is difficult to look at without squinting. Once your pupils contract, you can tell that the polar lettering is a relative bright spot against the rest of the upper hemisphere.

LSG bulb has a higher-opacity disc across the flat of the optic that's apparent without squinting - likely diverts a good deal of the light out the sides for more uniform distribution.



I took the shade/diffuser off of my desklamp and took a few shots at various angles. This was in a well-lit room that might as well have been darkened for all the camera had to dial back exposure:

IMG_20130429_213902_zpsecbf167a.jpg

Head-on

IMG_20130429_213919_zps2bb40000.jpg

Approximately 45 degrees

IMG_20130429_213946_zpsf68eddb0.jpg

Approximately 90 degrees

IMG_20130429_214000_zpsbf494924.jpg

Approximately 135 degrees


Lower parts of both hemispheres are the brightest regions. This phenomenon on the lower hemisphere is consistent with the Lumitex demo I saw for LED fiber optic area backlighting many years ago where the boundary abrasions closest to the light source where the brightest. For the upper hemisphere, one suspects they used another fiber bundle to transport the light.

Of course, 3M could also be using something else entirely.
 
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