Bypass cheap driver for direct drive

Just got my WES51 and soldered the negative wire to the "rim" and the positive wire to a small exposed piece of metal that looks like it has hole that goes to positive. So I assumed this is directly positive without any circuitry in the way.

Am I wrong for assuming this? Although I don't really care about the driver it would be senseless to try it without asking and blowing a working driver.
It is a cheap sipik sk98 and the memory mode doesn't work, so I thought I would try direct driving it while I'm waiting for my super-duper driver to ship.. (mind it will only be on for a few seconds so it won't burn my hands or desolder the led )

I think it should be safe since I'm using a really cheap 18650's from a new laptop battery (a $20 laptop battery with 9 cells) that must mean they are not high draw super batteries I am assuming..
Pics:

No idea if that's the correct way to do it, but assuming you've got the + wire hooked to something coming from batt + that will do it. I learned that by mistake lol.

Just an FYI for future use, the + doesn't need to go threw the driver at all (I'm talking about non-direct drive) the driver regulates the ground (-), positive (+) is just pass-threw. In high-draw applications its actually better to run positive direct from batt+ to led+.

See here

In some lights, the LED has no common wire to the flashlight body. I believe your driver will be easy to bypass, and is NOT in this more-difficult category. This is especially common where Vbatt is much greater than, or less that VLED. The driver linked above is an AMC7135-based driver, which does the following:

Regulate current to a certain level (750mA per AMC7135 chip or so).
Reduce voltage by at least 0.15v. All the voltage 'overhead' is converted to heat (dV times current).

Boost drivers, and some buck drivers, have the LED on a separate circuit. Think of there being two 'sides' to an electron pump: The battery side and the LED side. The voltage ('height') and current ('volume per minute') can be changed, but their product (Power) is equal, less inefficiency. In those cases, you'd have to bypass the driver completely to get direct drive.

Generally if you see no inductors, it's not a boost circuit. I'm not sure how to identify an isolated buck circuit from a photo.

Thanks for the help you guys, (the hole im talking abt is so small no kind of wire can got though more like a dimple)
Anyways, It did work, but not well.

Now I decided to sink the free floating star directly to the pill with solder. WElllllll I put solder wire snips under the star and since I don't have a heat gun I decided I would be the genius that I am and use a blow torch. The solder melted and the star settled down nicely. HOWEVER the dang thing got so hot the dome got a small yellow "burn" on it.
I hooked it back up the correct way (though the driver) and there seems to be no change in color.

Any pro tips on safely de-doming this thing?
Or best links? In the mean time ill be searching away!
(just got my AMC 3A)

Next time use a burner/hot plate, much less risk of damage and easier to control temp. You should look into reflow soldering man, with the only skills you've already demonstrated you have you're more than capable of doing it for personal use on a small scale, you'll end up with way fewer burned up parts.

For de-doming you can run it till its hot then try to slice it off with a thin blade or you can use chemicals. Gasoline or acetone are what most people do it with that post about it here.