Which li-ion battery packs use 14x65mm cells

I have this urge to use li-ion batteries in everything I have I found some in an oem sony camcorder pack #np-f330 are there any others that you know about?
I have some sample li-ion battery packs coming in from china tomorrow that I will be playing with,I mean developing into somthing soon also I am getting a line on control circuits(charge/discharge protection) for use on the naked cells that a lot of people are using.
Chris /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I do not know about the 14x65mm but have a number of 17x65mm which I got out of an old Toshiba Laptop LiIon battery back.
I have been using them in my L4 with great success.

My Land Rover Horror Story

Christoph,

I'm with you on that. I too am in the process converting over to Li-Ion. I've been working mainly with the 18650 cells, either in series or parallel. I just did a test with a parallel set in a Mag2C using the Maglite 3 cell xenon bulb (much brighter than the RS XPR103 3.6v 800ma). Got just a couple of minutes over 4 hours of run time.

Although I appreciate Nicad and Nimh in general, I can't stand the huge self discharge rate. I want a flashlight (or more appropriately, a battery system) that can be charged up, thrown in the trunk of a car and dug out in a year later and still work. Nicad/Nimh will be dead in three months. Li-Ion will theorectically have 73% of their capacity available after a year. I also want my system to be able to handle lithium primary cells as well, either CR123 or L91; that shouldn't be a problem.

I have also put a Canon BP-941 Li-Ion in place of a 6v lantern battery. It's rated 7.2v @ 5500mah as it contains three pair of 18650 cells in parallel. It should run for eight to nine hours with a typical bulb. Not looking for a blinding wall of light here, just practical usability during an extended power outage.

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I have ordered some LiIon charge controller IC's but in the mean time built the circuit at http://www.shdesigns.org/lionchg.html

Which does the job just fine.

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There are a number of IC's out there. Some will handle the low voltage trickle others will not.
Look at the MAX1879 and the MAX1736 as well as the Rohm BH3890 or BA3170.

Some threads from a while ago cover the use of the new single chip LTC 4054 chip which makes it very easy to built your own charger or you might consider modding a LiIon charger from a cell phone or Digicam - I´m using my Canon Ixus Li-Ion charger for bare cells now with ease - for all those chargers you only need to work around the non-existing "T" pin. Spent some time using the search function here on Li-Ions and you will find some good reads.

Klaus

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Now we´re talking business /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

First of all it started when I modded the Canon charger to be able to be used in a car - inside the charger after the primary power supply you get 6V - so I put 6V straight from an cigarette plug 12 to 6V DC-DC converter onto the pins of the one capacity after the power supply. Having the thing open I just routed the three charging craddle pins to the outside using some western plugs and going into a single cell D battery holder. I also put the 10K Ohm resistor you need between the "T" and negative terminal into the charger but it will only get connected and therefore tell the charger that everything is fine when the external charging craddle gets connected and keep the internal functions as before. You can also connect that 10K resistor inside the charging craddle. Before charging single Li-Ion cells pls go and read the Li-Ion FAQ from Koala first.

Klaus

DrJ,

Any working Li-Ion charger will do, it's just a matter of getting connected to the cells. The biggest issue I have is that all three chargers seem to be sized for the smallest 18500 cell (1100mah). At least that's what my measurements indicate. My two 18650 cells in parallel take 12 to 13 hours to charge.

"What? Doesn't everyone charge their cells this way?":

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DrJ - if you look at pretty much ANY Li-Ion cell pack you´ll see three terminals - usually named "+", "-" and "T" - while "+" and "-" might be pretty tough to figure out the "T" where T might really mean Temperature is easy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It actually is the protection pin and will disconnect or measure higher or lower or whatever when any of the Li-Ion relevant issues like overcharge or whatever results in too high temperature. During normal circumstances you will measure 10K Ohm between the "-" and "T" pins which is what the chargers are looking for. For bare cells to be charged by standard Lion pac/cell chargers you need to trick the cell or charging craddle into supplying the "all is fine" 10K against the minus terminal on the T pin to the charger.

Klaus