How do you use your HDS Rotary flashlight?

I really want to add a HDS Rotary flashlight to my collection but need a little nudge to get over the fence on this one.

Presently, I use a Fenix PD22 in a leather holster as an edc. It serves my needs but is not as cool looking as the HDS Rotary and does not have the dimming function.

How do you use your HDS Rotary flashlight(s)?

If you like multi mode lights, you are not likely to let the rotary go. Henry has put in a killer UI and user friendly modes that you can select.

A few aspects of the UI make it especially perfect to me.

Mine is programmed so the Rotary control is one setting and a low/low is another. It is also set for hold when already on as max output and hold from off the last preset that was on.

So I can get a momentary of the last setting from off which is one I use all the time or a single click latches to that level. Then if I need more light I can just hold the button while already on for a momentary blast and release to get back to the last level.
It is tougher to explain than to use for sure.
The beauty of it is the use of momentary while on or off and for different things.

Then the Rotary sort of speaks for itself I think but know it is just 1 of the 4 presets you ca program into the UI.
So I can get to the rotary level anytime or go low or full blast without ever turning the light off and I can make sure the rotary is where I want it before turning ithe light on at all.

You really need to play with one for a few minutes to grasp the genius of the design but the quality of the build only takes seconds to understand!

The other great thing is that if you get one and don't like it it would be easy to flip it and not lose any money too.

Mostly as a clicky. But the rotary function is used often enough to appreciate having it there.

As usual with HDS lights, there are 4 presets, A, B, C and D.

I use it on the rotary preset most of the time. That is preset B, which is the turn on preset, meaning when I turn on the light it is always on B the rotary mode. For preset C, I have mine set to beacon and preset D set to strobe. I don't use beacon nor strobe but since the rotary preset B covers everything I needed it to do the other presets C and D are actually quite redundant so I might as well just program in beacon and strobe to impress non-flashaholics.

Preset A is always at the highest output. Because I don't use my lights on highest output all the time this setting is beneficial for me. An example would be I am on a medium or lower output when suddenly I needed to spot something further, and a long press onto the switch from any levels and presets would send the light to preset A's full output. Release the switch and I am back to where I was previously.

Andy. You mentioned ABCD presets.
I thought there are only 3. Do you consider holding down the switch as another?

LGT said:

Mostly as a clicky. But the rotary function is used often enough to appreciate having it there.

Click to expand...

Same here.

Benchiew said:

Andy. You mentioned ABCD presets.
I thought there are only 3. Do you consider holding down the switch as another?

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Yes. Holding down the switch for momentary full output, or click and press hold for constant full output will change the preset to A. The default factory turn on preset is on B which is how I left my light too, on rotary mode.

pjandyho said:

Yes. Holding down the switch for momentary full output, or click and press hold for constant full output will change the preset to A. The default factory turn on preset is on B which is how I left my light too, on rotary mode.

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Now that you have confirmed that, thanks.
I guess there is a way to change was goes onto the ABCD preset. So much more to learn.

I got the new Rotary 250 which has as bright and perfect a beam as one could ask for in a pocket EDC. I use it with the factory settings plus I have enabled Momentary on, Burst Mode (steps down one brightness level after 40 seconds when on high to save battery and LED), and Automatic Shutoff after ten minutes.
I absolutely love it. This light can replace several other lights. The only function it can't perform is morse code signaling because of the UI and tail switch design (although it does have SOS built in).
The fact that it detects Li-Ions and slowly dims the light to avoid instant and unpredicted darkness is an essential feature I have not seen before and allows you to carry just one light.
The rotary control allows you to select the exact brightness level you need, and you can adjust in when the flashlight is on or off which is great. Any time you need full brightness just push and hold, when you let go it will go back to whatever the rotary is set to. That is such a practical and essential feature that you don't see on other lights either.
It is my constant EDC and ENC and it's built to last forever.

I have estimated that:

• You could probably run the light all night at level 19 with occasional quick bursts up to level 24 without having to change batteries
• Level 18 (11 lumens) is good for trail running, would give me over 16 hours at that level and is the highest level I would expect to use continuously
  
• Level 14 (2.25 lm) is good for walking briskly on uneven terrain and would last at least 60 hours
• Level 12 (1 lm) is good for walking on a trail and would last at least 130 hours
  
• Level 6 is okay for walking on pavement and would last virtually forever
  

I just use mine (EDC-R1B-200) as it left the factory. I don't think I'll ever need to get into excessive programming because of the rotary facility, which pretty much covers everything I need.

Over on the HDS thread one of the members (Hogokansatsukan) made the suggestion that when using the Rotary you turn it on at the lowest setting then slowly ramp it up until you get to the brightness level needed to optimize it's efficiency. I thought this was a good idea. I also like to leave the dial turned to the lowest setting so if the light does turn on accidentally (I don't use the button lock option) the battery drain is at the minimal.

I just reviewed the manual for my rotary and it does not mention the button lock-out feature. Does anyone know if the button lock-out is available on the rotary as an undocumented feature?

mikeymoto said:

I just reviewed the manual for my rotary and it does not mention the button lock-out feature. Does anyone know if the button lock-out is available on the rotary as an undocumented feature?

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The previous models have a button lock feature in the menu, activating it requires a triple click from off to turn the light on. The latest models use a manual method, twisting the battery tube loose a turn or two locks out the button.

HDS website has the manual in a PDF format, it's #6 (disabling the switch).

There is no longer an electronic button lock out in the new HDS.
I have two HDS Rotary lights. One is a Tactical Rotary, and the other a straight Rotary.
The tactical, I leave on high (I still carry a sidearm everywhere even though I no longer work as a LEO... put too many folks in prison where I live... well, not too many, probably not enough really, but I digress).
The standard Rotary I leave on the most counter clockwise position. My thought on the standard is, that I simply twist the light to the level that I need. This does a couple of things. 1. It keeps me from losing my night vision by using too much light, and 2. Saves battery life.
Now with the tactical always being set at max, I simply turn it all the way down before I turn the light on. I keep it in max simply for an "oh crap!" situation.
It's the beauty of the rotary lights, you can adjust them before you turn the light on.

I too have the rotary turned right down and adjust as needed. The beauty of the UI is that a double click will give enough light to 'see' in the immediate area, which is what most people need, without having to play with the rotary.
I do not consider the HDS to be a 'tatical' light by the way, although I'm sure if push came to shove, it could do ok if you were familiar enough with the UI to operate it under stress.

yearnslow said:

I too have the rotary turned right down and adjust as needed. The beauty of the UI is that a double click will give enough light to 'see' in the immediate area, which is what most people need, without having to play with the rotary.
I do not consider the HDS to be a 'tatical' light by the way, although I'm sure if push came to shove, it could do ok if you were familiar enough with the UI to operate it under stress.

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The only HDS that could be considered "tactical" is the "Tactical Rotary". It's new, and the UI is, in my humble opinion, the best multi-mode tactical light out there. Very few people have one in their hands right now. I've had one since SHOT this year, and actually, it's the HDS that Henry carries.

I would have reservations about any multi-mode tactical light to be honest. Its just a personal thing. In my limited experience I've always found momentary on/off ideal for any 'tactical' application. It gives me a good excuse to buy another one of Henry's lights though, just to test your theory of course.

yearnslow said:

I would have reservations about any multi-mode tactical light to be honest. Its just a personal thing. In my limited experience I've always found momentary on/off ideal for any 'tactical' application. It gives me a good excuse to buy another one of Henry's lights though, just to test your theory of course.

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With the rotary dial wound up thats exactly what the tactical model is, a pure momentary, full output light
You have to wind it down a bit to access the other modes and click on click off functionality

Of course you should still buy one just to make sure

(note - i dont own a rotary or a tactical rotary, this is just what i have read here on the forums - my newest HDS is a tactical clicky 170GDP - which is a few years old at least, judging by the marks left on it by the previous owner)