Thoughts on Streamlight products?

In my research, i have found that Streamlight has some great/affordable products with amazing lumen output. Some of their new lights have 600+ lumens. There Stinger DS LED has 350 lumens/24,000 candela peak beam intensity on high. What are your thoughts on Streamlight products? Do you think they are a good buy? If not, who do you think has a better product to offer?
Thanks everyone

I like the ProTac HL and TLR-1 HL. The Protac HL beam looks so similar to the Surefire Fury they are indistinguishable. The TLR-1 HL beam is oriented more towards spill than ultimate throw. http://www.streamlight.com/en-us/education/apps-and-beams.html HTH. Paladin

I have a Streamlight Nano Light that used to be my keychain light and it performed well. Otherwise i don´t own any other Streamlights so i can´t tell,but i belive it´s a high quality brand. You can check on the review section on this forum for reviews on Streamlights to get more facts about their performance.

I've only owned the Microstream, but it's a solid light.

I don't own any LED products by them (well, actually I own a penlight) so it's mainly incandescents (UltraStinger, Stinger, Litebox) but their warranty is pretty good.

If you plan to buy a stinger and use it a lot, It will stand the test of time. The piggy back charging system is very convenient for "grab and go". Warranty is excellent.

If you plan to buy more lights then you will not use your stinger a whole lot because there are brighter lights available.

I own a handful of different Streamlight models. Generally, not much discussion of SL lights on CPF. But overall it's a quality brand making quality lights. Here's the thing though ... There's something called emitter lumens and Out The Front lumens. OTF are actual numbers. Emitter lumens are output measured before the bezel and everything that goes with it are attached. Emitter lumens are always higher before the bezel is attached. Once attached, output typically falls by 1/3. Sometimes as much as 1/2. Most brands, including Streamlight measure emitter lumens. For example, an incandescent SL UltraStinger is rated at 295 lumens. Actual output is closer to about 170. So, more to it than just advertised numbers.

Only two of my several SL models gave me headaches. My SL Nano's head got unscrewed through body movement and fell off the body of my light. It was attached to a belt clip. So I lost the head and the button cells inside. Ironically, the Nano has a reputation for having that problem. I bought one anyway. Won't make that mistake again. My SL NightFighter is the single most odd-ball flashlight design I've ever seen and experienced. The grip-ring doesn't even feel as though it was designed for a human hand. When Streamlight announced they were going to upgrade the NightFighter, I was excited. Until I learned that all they did was toss an LED emitter into the design and put two fins on the bezel. Plus, adjusting that ridiculous grip-ring is a chore. And be sure the tiny nut used to secure it in place doesn't accidentally fall out and render that grip-ring completely useless. I let Streamlight know about my disappointment both with the NF and Streamlight's decision to leave the design alone when they introduced the LED version. They thanked me for my concern, We'll see if they decide to use any of my ideas for improving the NF. Ironically, without that grip-ring, the NF is a really nice compact 2xCR123 light. If a bit smooth.

Have had better results with other SL models. My first one was a Streamlight TL2 LED model that I still own. Excellent performance out of that light, even though I now own brighter LED lights with carry-clips. Streamlight makes more models that are far more "Hit" than "Miss."

Monocrom said:

I own a handful of different Streamlight models. Generally, not much discussion of SL lights on CPF. But overall it's a quality brand making quality lights. Here's the thing though ... There's something called emitter lumens and Out The Front lumens. OTF are actual numbers. Emitter lumens are output measured before the bezel and everything that goes with it are attached. Emitter lumens are always higher before the bezel is attached. Once attached, output typically falls by 1/3. Sometimes as much as 1/2. Most brands, including Streamlight measure emitter lumens. For example, an incandescent SL UltraStinger is rated at 295 lumens. Actual output is closer to about 170. So, more to it than just advertised numbers.

Click to expand...

So, do their newest led model still use the emitter lumens?

SL has advertised ANSI/FL-1 specs for the past year or so.

Anyway, I'm taken with their throw-oriented designs. The Strion HP is a decent XP-G2 thrower in a sweet package with good ergonomics for not too much $$. AR-coated windows would be nice.

I have run the Stinger HL for a few months now. Love it. It pushes out every bit of the 640 lumens it is rated for. Very satisfied. Cannot believe they do not yet have a turbohead version available. I will be buying that if it ever shows up. SL rechargeables make very good beater lights. Good value for the money. I have two old stingers upgraded with LED drop-ins Long with an Ultra Stinger and a LiteBox. They all work well.

regulation said:

So, do their newest led model still use the emitter lumens?

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The newer ones tend to. But the older, more common models, still use the old ratings. Honestly, brightness numbers aren't the most important thing to look for in a light. The M@glite MagCharger is a much brighter incandescent rechargeable light than the SL UltraStinger I mentioned above. Yet, the UltraStinger is more popular among law enforcement agencies across the board. Namely because it's a better light in every single other way. Beam profile, charging time vs. use before a recharge is needed, tint, overall construction, etc.

Another problem is that the human eye is a **** poor indicator of lumen output. It simply cannot register small increases in output. For example, a light putting out 45 OTF lumens will look the same as one putting out 60. In fact, the 45 will appear brighter if it has a concentrated hotspot compared to the 60 that has quite a bit more side-spill. So not only is the human eye incapable of determining precise output in lumens, but it can't even come close to doing so. Plus, it can be tricked. Use advertised output numbers as simply a very general guide in the specs. of a light. I'd much rather have a light with lower output but better tint and beam profile than one that is advertised as a lot brighter by comparison.

It's why when I first started out I bought a Streamlight Scorpion and a SureFire G2 (incandescent versions). I had intended to use the SL Scorpion most of the time and save my SF G2 as a back-up. First time I fired both of them up, it was clear that the Streamlight Scorpion was going to be assigned the back-up role, instead. No comparison as far as which one had the far more pragmatic beam profile. Don't misunderstand, the SL Scorpion is far from a poor light. Quite a few years back, in a different decade, it was easily one of the best lights out there. And retained an old-timer's feature that I actually liked. A spare bulb housed in the tailcap section. With a G2, you need a bulky, special, SureFire carrier if you wanted the security of having a spare bulb (and attached reflector) on you. The SL Scorpion is now a classic. I still recall the day I first saw one. Years before I developed a serious interest in lights. It was in a tourist shop window display in Manhattan, right next to the theater where they record the Late Show with David Letterman. It was in a nice wooden presentation box. Just caught my eye for some reason. I'd like to think it was purchased by someone who needed a truly good light. Perhaps not by a flashaholic. But by someone who knows the value (not just the price-tag) of it, and still uses it today. Unfortunately reviews for the SL Scorpion on review sites tend to either be great or awful. The negative ones are always for the same reason ... "Batteries too expensive at nearly $10 each. Runtime only 60 minutes, and the light needs two of these special, hard-to-find batteries." The positive reviews are from those who understand that it's a classic light from a different time.

I have been through a few different Streamlight flashlights. We get them through our clothing/equipment allowance through work. I haven't gotten any of the upgraded flashlights for 2013, but I have owned the: TLR (original)-> 160 lumen model, Poly Stinger, DS LED Stinger, SL, SL LED.

The original SL was an incandescent light if I remember right, then they came out with the SL Incandescent with three low light LEDs. These lights were really light weight and decent build. Inevitably, the lights get dropped a bit and the bulb would fall back. The LEDs held up and they were just right right brightness. Didn't like the size of the flashlight however.

The DS LED Stinger is what I primarily carry. The nice thing is that it uses all of the Stinger series of batteries that I already have as well as the charger. The flashlights do pretty well for getting dropped, except for the rear clicky tail cap. I had start to give out (but was still functional). After unscrewing the switch, I could see that the clicky mechanism was just held in by 3 plastic rivet through a small circuit board. That was pretty unimpressive and didn't surprise me that the switch broke. However Streamlight fixed it no problem.

In terms of the light output, here's my main complaint and why I'm looking to use something else as my primary: The light levels go from 160 > 120 > 80 lumens approximately. That middle range is pretty much useless. The low mode is really bright for night-adapted eyes. Those levels are only useful for saving batteries. This is where I missed the SL with the low light LEDs. The other issue is that the light is very spotlightish. There is some spill but it doesn't take away from tunnel vision. There are some times when I'd rather use my natural night vision versus getting stuck in the tunnel vision of the light. My understanding of Streamlights is that they are at maximum brightness for the first few minutes and then cut the output back (not noticeable) to save on batteries. I picked up an Armytek Predator X (2.0) which had the most generous spill and it lights up interior locations and backyards really well. I use this light for clearing areas for safety and it's handy for searching for things.

I really like the TLR series. I have owned all of them except for the 2013 upgraded models and the HL. The Surefire weapon light series is definitely just a tiny bit nicer, but not worth the price difference. My only complaint is about the teeter-totter switch. Pushing down for momentary on the left side equates to pushing up on the right side. Not really a good setup for a weapon light.

I essentially get all of those Streamlights for "free", but the only lights I would pay my own hard-earned money for would be the TLR series. It took me 2-3 years to get extra Stingers or SLs to make it worthwhile.

I really wish there were more direct comparisons between Streamlight, Surefire, and the other companies I have seen a lot of on this board *hint hint*.

I like streamlight a lot, affordable and easy to find locally. Occasionally the emitters aren't centered good. Only had one with an out of Center emitter, out of the 7 I've owned. The Supertac was just slightly off, was still a great thrower.

My main problem with Streamlight is that they are stuck on a outdated battery technology in their Stingers. The day they get a 2 x 26650 Li-ion or 2 x 18650 Li-Ion Stinger, then I'm going to get one.

Streamlight is finally bringing the 2200mAh NiMH to the US as standard equipment for the HL models, and the runtime isn't bad (granted, there's a step-down to 70%). The benefit of "outdated" NiMH batteries is that they are more durable than lithium-ion.

Before my Surefire addiction I had graduated from an Incan Maglite to a Incan Streamlight SL20. I used it for years changed the bulb and switch twice. I ended up selling it and regretting it later. They do have a good warranty I think they are in PA. I did get issued an Incan Stinger once but I never even took it out of the box since I had my modded Surefire 6Ps at hand. Terralux does make some aftermarket led modules for the SL20 and the Stingers. If you plan on getting into flashlights and modding them later I would not recommed a Streamlight as there is not much out there as far as legoing and aftermarket parts to hot rod them.

Nobletitus hit on an important point re: the SL Stinger HL which is that the low is not low at all. Off the top of my head, not sure what the low setting is rated at, but it is pretty bright. Something in the 30 lumen range would be way more useful.

Streamlight is very unappreciated on CPF's and I don't know why. My favorites are the Strion and the Pro Tac series, mostly the the Pt2aa. I did a runtime test with the 2aa on 2 eneloops and it ran 3.5 hours on high without noticeable brightness drop, and at 4.5 hours I noticed dimming. The brightness/runtime ratio of this light beats every 2aa out there. Streamlight gives you what you need and isnt into the frills that others are playing into. A lot of manufacturers drive their emitters hard to achieve high lumens and the runtime stinks.

In the Leo world, I see lots of Pro Tac HL's, Pro Tac 2aa's, Stinger's, TLR's, and Strion's. Useful interfaces, runtime, and flat regulation.

The Twintask lights are a great budget alternative to one of my favorite Surefires, the A2L

Streamlight and Surefire's primary customers are LE and military. The primary focus for those markets is: reliability, ruggedness, simplicity. Runtime is a concern because you don't want to be left in the dark after the first few hours of a long shift. 60 min runtime is a bit short for a 10hr shift. 2.5hrs is just about right (fresh charge every shift).