My Holy Grail Has Been Found - Parts of One Anyway - SX-16 NightSun

BVH

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I've been watching Ebay and waiting for a few years for one of the Holy Grails of Short Arcs to show up. The fruits of my labor paid off recently. For what seems like a year or more, there have been 3 Spectrolab NightSun junction boxes (power supply, boost power and part of the ignitor circuit in a metal box) listed. Two have always been listed at about $3,500 each and one for $5,200. That is just too rich for my blood. And besides, what am I going to do with a NightSun power supply?

About 3 weeks ago, an SX-16 NightSun canister (main light body and internals, minus the gimbal) appeared on Ebay with a starting price of $1,250. I was going to participate in the bidding but so as not to disappoint myself too much, I told myself it would probably end up going for at least $7,000 to $8,000. After all a new SX-16 is over $25,000 from what I can gather. To make the chance of acquisition even less, the seller indicated "local pick-up only" and was located in Florida. The light had a cracked front window and was listed for "parts, not working". I watched it until it had 5 hours to go – with no bids, and communicated an offer to the seller with the condition that the lamp was not physically damaged and same for the reflector and canister and that he would be willing to ship it. A day went by with no answer and finally he responded that he would sell and ship it for my offer and that all my conditions were met with regard to no damage. So immediately to PayPal I happily went. Keep in mind that I still didn't know if everything in the canister worked.

July 3

Now after years of waiting, I had a NightSun light body on the way and I needed a junction box (power supply) and a hand controller box. So I did my research on all the Spectrolab revisions of the junction box and found all the technical Service Bulletins that had been issued on them. Based on this info, I made an offer to the seller of the two boxes – for the newest one of the two. A day went by and finally he declined my offer. I was very disappointed but had expected this result based on my low bid. So I said "what the heck, I've got nothing to lose" and made the same offer to the $5,200 box seller. To my surprise, he accepted it. And I realized shortly thereafter, that this box had all of the technical service bulletin work done already. As with the light body, I still didn't know if the box actually worked.

So there I sat on July 3 with two major SX-16 NightSun components paid for and awaiting shipping. To pass the time, I downloaded the NightSun operator manual and read it cover to cover a couple of times hoping for some info on an electrical schematic since I would have to wire in a control box when I finally found one or make my own controller. Naturally, there was no schematic online that I could find. I did find a technical service bulletin for a Eurocopter NightSun installation that showed the pinout of the hand controller as it terminates on a terminal block in the junction box. Based on this, I believed I had most of info that I needed to get one wired up or made.

While I waited for the components to arrive, I emailed Spectrolab for some parts costs. I knew everything would be super expensive so when the prices came back, it was no surprise – except for the front window. It is only $146.00 plus shipping. But the controller box is a whopping $1,850!! It's basically two toggle switches – one for Off/On/Start and one for Left-Right/Up-down and one momentary push button for focus. Maybe there's a logic board or some other goodies in there, but it can't be much. All of these are housed in a small metal box with a coiled cord and connector. That's it! I can't afford to pay nearly two grand for it. In my email, I took the time to explain who I am and about my Short arc collection hobby. I mentioned that my use for a NightSun is definitely not on an aircraft nor for any commercial purposes. I then asked if the company ever had used/reconditioned or salvaged parts for the light.

I continued to re-visit the controller terminal block diagram and photos of the inside of the junction box. After hours of research, I came to the conclusion that it was possible that I didn't have to find the hand controller right away to operate the light. I thought that I could make the two cables I need and my own controller. If I was reading the very basic controller block diagram right, the controller box and in-turn, the three switches simply provide make-and-break power connections to the focus, azimuth and elevation motors and the ignitor. I wasn't 100% sure without having the components in my possession though.

I finally ended up seeing a sentence in the operators' manual mentioning that there is a maintenance and troubleshooting manual in existence. Since it had been a few days since my first used parts inquiry, I emailed my contact at Spectrolab again saying I definitely wanted to order the glass window and asked him if I can purchase the manual. I also asked again about used parts. A few hours later, I got a very nice response from my contact. He said he was catching up his desk after the long holiday weekend and that he had wanted to "go out into the shop" to see about some used parts but hadn't had time yet. He asked me to be patient and give him some time. Of course I emailed back saying to take all the time he needed. He mentioned that it MIGHT be possible to find some used items at a cheaper cost.

July 8th - the junction box arrived.

I spent a couple of hours removing some of the components so I could thoroughly clean up the insides. Everything "looks" in good condition but of course with electronic parts, it's impossible to know if they are all functioning by looking at them.
So now I'm just waiting on my Spectrolab contact to give me some good news!



The Junction/Boost Power Supply Box









July 15 – No return email yet but the Light Body Arrived, Excitement - Disappointment - Excitement!

The box arrives looking reasonably good. I open it up, carefully remove the foam padding and lift the bubble wrapped light onto my bench. I can hear broken glass. Not good. The seller said in the Ebay ad that the front window has a crack. Well now the crack is a few shards of glass remaining in-place and the rest is on the bottom of the light. And upon further inspection, the shards have hit the lamp during transit and it's ruptured. Oh my gawd – how's the reflector??? A quick close look and I'm surprised how good it looks. Yeah, there's a few little dust strike looking spots with minute scratches but…..hmmmmmm….. you know what……I think this is a new reflector! There's absolutely no fine scratch marks like all "cleaned" reflectors show. No burned on blue haze as I see on all Short Arc reflectors. And you know what??? The black crinkle finish on the outside of the can is, well, new looking. The connector threads look untouched. The safety cable is brand new looking. The yolk mounts look untouched. OK! This is looking better. Let's open up the back end and take a look to see if all the electronic parts and focusing motor are there. I take the 4 screws out and pop it open. My gawd!!! This IS a new light. Everything is pristine! All the military white cables are blinding white in color. Heck, the white grease on the focusing motor cam is not even spread around the cam and the original glob on the movable assembly is pretty much untouched. There's not a spec of dust on the fan blades. There's absolutely no heat marks anywhere. This is a New, Old Stock Light! Did I get lucky or what!!!

I knew I needed the front window. I planned on getting a bulb anyway so in reality, no harm done and I've got a brand new NightSun light body!

Just a little interesting technical observation. I wonder how many "miles" the spark plug is good for??? What??? Yes, there's an NGK AP7FS in the starting circuit. This is the first time I've seen an over-the-counter or any special spark plug used in a Short Arc ignition system. The first thing that comes to mind is the term Spark Gap. I've seen numerous Spark Gaps in Short Arc ignitor circuits but they are directly in line with the lamp current. The NGK is not in the main current circuit. There's also something called a Vibrator that looks sort of like a capacitor. I've seen them in older electrical devices but don't know what they do.

That's it for now. I need to get a new lamp, a front window and nail down the control box and cabling. But I can say that I'm a Happy Camper now. Even though this has been a Holy Grail for me, there's still another More Holy Grail to obtain - The Night Sword!













Back cover removed shows the Focus motor and cooling fan



Moving Reflector ***'y is the Black, three-sided piece and the white board supports the lamp and electronics



Ignitor Box



NGK AP7FS Spark Plug



Poor arc chamber with its' hole. Hows that for a Big Arc Gap?



The poor Anode was rolling around in the can. Can't believe it physically broke in two pieces.

 

KuanR

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What a good read. I can relate to that feeling of getting that "grail" and the heart ache that comes with some surprises. I look forward to see your progress and updates, especially beam shots!
 

holylight

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Not totally understood but will stay around to see more of the 25k machine. Good luck bro!
 

ShortArc

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AMAZING!!!!
Like you, I have been watching these for YEARS. The ebay notifications have almost become peripheral as the cost was always too high.
Now I can live my dream through you. Congrats.
 

bshanahan14rulz

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Interesting to see the pits on the anode. Could this mean that the bulb was started maybe 7 or 8 times, most likely at the factory for testing?

also, the vibrator, perhaps another word for some sort of resonator component or circuit.

Very curious what the spark plug is for. Glad you have another toy and thanks for sharing!
 

Lips

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Congrats! and nice read.

This could give some first hand insights on how things are done for the Night Sword?

Wonder if the bulb was already broke or the lens pieces broke it in shipping. Would have been nice for them to tape the lens up if it was cracked to save the bulb if it wasn't broke already.
 

BVH

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Not that I can really tell, but it looks to be a fresh break. As you say, simply taping up the cracked lens would probably have prevented it but who knows for sure. The 7 or 8 pits on the Anode i'm sure are representative of the very few times it's been started. That goes along with the overall new condition of the light. I know the factory tests each and every lamp for a little over an hour and maybe it takes a couple "hits" to get it fired up. The manual says that the manufacturer states that lamp life under ideal conditions is 1,000 hours. "Ideal" means each start and run cycle is 1 hour in duration. They want a minimum of a 20 minute run to repair the damage done during each startup. They realize this is not always possible so they recommend that operators routinely set aside an hour of non in-use run time to repair the damage. Maybe the spark plug is some sort of circuit "discharger" used at the end of the ignition strike? It's connected by only a #18 or so AWG wire and as I stated, not in the lamp power circuit. The wire comes from 3 paralleled small caps. It just doesn't look like something "in-play" when the light is running.

I'm doing things too fast! I've done everything I can do on the light and junction box, including using my favorite Honda Spray Polish to polish all the light and junction box surfaces, interior and exterior. I tested the fan and focus motor and they work fine. Fan draws 1.4 Amps at 28.0 Volts. So now it's "waiting for parts" time. But I sure am having fun!!

I really want to take it to the range when I'm done but that will be a chore. I have a 4.0KW (continuous) AC generator that MAY provide enough 240 VAC power to the Lorain 28V/ 100 Amp Rectifier since the lights' max draw is 85 Amps. But it's maybe too close for me to try. And then I'd have to man-handle the heavy generator and Rectifier into the SUV. Then actually power the light on and risk drawing unwanted attention, like what happened back in Burbank. Oh, the stress of it all!

Realized I had no "complete light" pic so added.



 
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BVH

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Off to the dentist tomorrow. It just happens to be located about 12 miles from Spectrolab. :D There's a good chance I'll come home with a Demonstrator Control Box, front glass window, new enhanced reflector (20% increase in output) and Maint. & Troubleshooting manual. My contact already sent me a wiring schematic which helped out a lot. The NGK spark plug is in use during normal operation according to the schematic if I'm reading it correctly.

Lamp being shipped tomorrow from a different source. Now just need the 5-conductor Amphenol connector.
 
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Norm

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Off to the dentist tomorrow. It just happens to be located about 12 miles from Spectrolab. :D

Good luck with that, it's always good to see a fellow member find their Holy Grail :grouphug:

Norm
 

Taschenlampe Dude

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Sep 29, 2011
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That looks a great find!

The mention of the vibrator brought back memories of the electromechanical devices I saw used in vintage vacuum tube powered two-way radios which were designed for mobile use. The radios were usually powered by a vehicle battery of some sort. The vibrator would change the input DC voltage into AC which would then go into the primary winding of a step-up transformer and come out the secondary winding at a sufficient voltage to power the vacuum tubes after being rectified and filtered. Although considered mobile radios, these were both huge and heavy and were often mounted in the trunk of the vehicle with a remote control head in the passenger compartment and power cables running to the battery which looked like welding cables. Quite different from todays solid state, low voltage devices.

I'm looking forward to following your progress on this most interesting project.
 

Echo63

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Looks like a cool light, I can't wait to see beamshots when it's fired up

(I also love looking at the insides of these lights, but have no idea what does what, and if I opened one, would probably electrocute myself)
 

KuanR

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Wow! That's a great score, with that your light is almost complete. Is the control box functional right now?
 

BVH

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Yes, the control box pictured above is fully functional. I just ordered the 4th quick connect Amphenol mating connector to mount on the Junction Box so the entire control box and cable can be quickly removed. That is something I had not planned on. It was going to be permanently hard-wired. This is much nicer. For now anyway, I won't be using the 8-way joystick switch on the controller because I don't have the gimbal ***'y and the only one I've seen on Ebay is listed at $3,500 give or take. However, I've made an offer based on the fact that that particular gimbal can no longer be legally used an any aircraft installation because of an FAA related/manufacturer governed finite life of 10 years. It is well over 10 years old.


Currently, the focus mechanism is a DC gear reduction motor driven cam. The cam pushes against the silver button mounted on the black, 3-pointed spider shown in the pic above. This, in turn, pushes and releases the reflector mount forward and backward (under spring tension) So when the button is pushed, it simply turns the motor only one direction - continually moving the reflector forward to rearward to forward. Right now, if you carefully focus down to the smallest hotspot and accidentally go too far, you have to go all the way around with the motor and cam again. You can't just "bump it back and forth" like a Maxabeam. I'm going to modify the control box by swapping out the momentary push-button switch with a reversing polarity switch. However, the cooling fan and focus motor on the back cover of the light share a common ground so in it's current configuration, I cannot reverse polarity up in the controller without reversing polarity to the cooling fan at the same time. That would not be good! So I need to buy new Amphenol main light cable connectors to add a 6th conductor and run a separate ground to the focus motor. It's hard to believe it was ever designed in it's original configuration. Imagine trying to focus on your target up in the helicopter and going to far and then having to wait while the cam goes all the way around again. They have since changed it to the system that I am going to. (I've verified with the engineers that the focus motor is capable of being driven both directions)

I found out the the NGK spark plug is actually the "Spark Gap" in the ignition circuit.

For the electronic guru....Are the little "disk" shaped components that tie across all the power input cables where they enter the light, capacitors? And if so what is their purpose. It seems strange to have a component that appears to be "shorting" positive power to negative power. Although I know that that is not happening. I see this happening in all of my power supplies. Look at the orange disks in the 3rd from the bottom pic.

Oh, forgot to say that Taschenlampe is correct in the post above on the Vibrator. It converts 28VDC into 48VAC Square Wave, 60 Htz which is then converted to somewhere around 25KV for the strike.
 
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BVH

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Again, for the electrical gurus out there. This has been touched upon in my ARC RCL600 marine searchlight thread. In relation to modifying the control box as mentioned in my above post, Not only do I want a 28V Reversing switch but it would be fantastic to find one that would provide variable increasing Voltage in both directions so that I could run the motor slower by moving the switch less. Getlit came up with this Hall Effect switch which in theory performs the functions I want but it's Voltage capacity is maxed out at 5V and it's a Hall Effect switch.

http://www.ottoexcellence.com/products/htwm-hall-effect-mini-proportional-output-thumbwheel/

Does anyone know of such a control that would have Proportional control, 28VDC capacity and be small enough to install in something like a 1 1/2" x 3/4" give or take, hole? Could be round, too. Ideally it would be polarity reversing and proportionally momentary - off -proportionally momentary in function.
 
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FRITZHID

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Great find bob! Congrats!
As for the lil orange caps, I don't have a schematic but I'd guess they are high voltage excitation caps, these are often found in gas lasers and store up a high voltage charge for a very short burst to excite the initial burst needed to ionize the spark gap (you will also find these in bug zappers!)

In reguards to variable momentary/off/variable momentary switch issue, I find it unlikely that you'll find anything that's not going to be solid state, (i.e. Simple potentiometer design). Something in the order of a multi-FET unit wouldn't be hard to design however.

Again, congrats on your new toy! Its a great one to add to your collection!
 
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