Peak Logan 123a Help

Hey Guys!

Just about to order a Peak Logan 123 flashlight.

I have decided on the Large Optic, but cannot find any solid information on the emitter used in this head.

I'm planning on ordering from Oveready, and looking on their website, the Mule head uses the xpg-2 led, i'm assuming the Large Optic does too. But would love some clarification!

Oveready says, that with the cool emitter the light produces over 300 lumens. I want to know if this is for the Large Optic and the Mule heads.

Thank you

Matthew

The optic size has nothing to do with the led other than what options they are currently offering. The cool led will have the same output whether it uses an optic or the mule style. I'd assume that since is simply says xpg that it is an R5. I just ordered a Logan with the Nichia 219 mule head. We'll see how it does.

Brasso said:

The optic size has nothing to do with the led other than what options they are currently offering. The cool led will have the same output whether it uses an optic or the mule style. I'd assume that since is simply says xpg that it is an R5. I just ordered a Logan with the Nichia 219 mule head. We'll see how it does.

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I for one would like to hear your thoughts about the Nichia 219 mule head- I know you have had several PEAK lights, as have I- going back to the earlier times...curious to see if they are getting back on track.

I have the Nichia mule head on a Logan 17500 and like it very much. With a 17500 battery it is impressively bright on high. I also use it with an AA sleeve and Eneloops when I don't need as much output. Works great. The beam is truly artifact-free on mine: just a circle of light. The shortness of the mule head makes it fairly compact.

Threads felt a little gritty when I first got it, but after a good clean and some nyogel, it is buttery smooth -- easy to use, even one-handed. (Much easier than the Eigers I have -- their smaller diameter heads make one-hand use difficult for me.) I went with a HA AL body and can find no flaws at all. QTC is working well and holding up (several months of daily use) for me -- it ramps up and down smoothly. I usually check the light a couple minutes after turning it off, especially if it was twisted to high, because the QTC pill slowly expands after being compressed which turns the light back on very low. Alternatively, just make an extra half-turn of the head once it turns off to allow for pill expansion.

RAGE CAGE said:

I for one would like to hear your thoughts about the Nichia 219 mule head- I know you have had several PEAK lights, as have I- going back to the earlier times...curious to see if they are getting back on track.

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"I usually check the light a couple minutes after turning it off, especially if it was twisted to high, because the QTC pill slowly expands after being compressed which turns the light back on very low."

Thanks for that, shudaizi. I've noticed my Rainier QTC XML does the same thing.

RAGE CAGE said:

I for one would like to hear your thoughts about the Nichia 219 mule head- I know you have had several PEAK lights, as have I- going back to the earlier times...curious to see if they are getting back on track.

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I'll let you know when I get it in my grubby little hands.

I was originally going to opt for the 17500 with the large Nichia optic, but it wasn't available, so I went with the 123 and mule head mostly to use as a nightstand light.

I see!

I did some more research and spoke to Oveready team.

I now have incoming a 123 Logan, Large optic with a 4000k xpg-2 and momentary switch with a keychain attatchment.

Be sure to let you know how it does!

The 123 Logan with the 219 Mule head came in.

If you've ever had a Zebralight 501 headlamp then you know exactly what the beam looks like. Pure circular wall of light. No hotspot. No artifacts. And of course, no throw whatsoever. However, for the intended purpose for which I purchased it, as a nightstand light, it's perfect. A nice, dim, floody light that is silent and can't accidentally go straight to "holy crap I'm blind". The threads were dry out of the package, but a little Nyogel fixed it right up. Threads were smooth and the ramping was very predictable. I like it. However, if you want a general purpose light, then you will definately want the optic. With the mule head it's strictly a short distance love affair.

If Oveready ever gets some Nichia 219 Optics back in stock I will most likely pick one up with the 17500 body. If it came in brass with a switch and a clip that would be glorious.

Under the levels section why does it say NO QTC -high only ? That seems to be the only available option.

I'm guessing that they are either out of QTC pills or upgrading. There is a notice that says all the Eigers are being updated.

Peak Logan 123 has arrived. Big thanks to Oveready, excellent internation service.

By far the nicest flashlight I own, almost too afraid to put it on my keys. But this is my edc. And will have more use than any of my flashlights combined.

Seems as bright as my M61 on a Primary, the xpg2 neutral is gorge. Perfect white to my eyes.

Just don't want to scratch up that optic!

Now just awaiting an imr 16340 to see what can really do

Be advised that the use of IMR's is not recommended due to excessive heat build up. AW Lions are OK, but even then you need to be carefull. It is possible to melt the optic if left on while standing on the head, etc.

Yes, as Brasso notes, IMR is not recommended, and ICR should be used only briefly at max (& not unmonitored).

Thanks for the heads up guys. After removing the Small plastic ring from the bottom of the Duracell primary i'm using the light is plenty bright enough. The ring was causing havoc to the qtc.

Wouldn't want to risk that kind damage if I'm honest.

I put a little teflon grease on the threads as they were dry. Not sure if this is ideal. What do you think?

I really don't know anything about teflon grease. I use Nyogel.

There's a huge lubrication thread on CPF. Lots of information and probably some misinformation too. What I took away from it was that the optimal lubrication depends on what material / metal the light is made of. So the answer will depend on which Logan body you purchased. Also, be aware that different o-ring materials react differently with different lubrications. Nyogel, for example, may be good for threads but it will deteriorate EPDM o-rings. I do not know what Peak o-rings are made of -- I tried asking in a different thread but no one replied.

Here's the chart I cribbed from somewhere in that mega-thread (direct link: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ube-Thread&p=3210846&viewfull=1#post3210846):

For ALL METALS in lightly loaded and only occasionally used threaded assemblies (like tailcap threads) all of the following are acceptable:


Mobil One [Red] Automotive Grease, Nyogel 760, General Purpose Lithium Grease, Generic Teflon Grease, or Krytox


For critical applications, not all of these options will perform equally, so here are how they stack up:


BARE ALUMINUM
In frequently used or heavily loaded threaded assemblies (twisty lights)


BEST – Mobil One [Red] Automotive / Synthetic Grease
GOOD – General Purpose Lithium Grease (universal coulpling grease works well)
MARGINAL - Teflon Grease, Krytox, Nyogel 760G




STAINLESS STEEL, HARD ANODIZED ALUMINUM
In frequently used or heavily loaded threaded assemblies (twisty lights)


BEST - Krytox (note: Though always best on Stainless Steel, Krytox is only best on hard andodized surfaces while the anodized coating is intact. If the anodized coating wears through, Krytox goes from BEST to MARGINAL because it will start to cause fretting and wear on the exposed soft bare aluminum surfaces.)
GOOD – Mobil One [Red] Automotive Grease, Lithium Grease (universal joint grease)
MARGINAL – Nyogel 760G




TITANIUM
In frequently used or heavily loaded threaded assemblies (twisty lights)


BEST – Krytox Grease (no sodium nitrite)
ACCEPTABLE - Krytox Grease (with sodium nitrite)
MARGINAL (light loads only) Mobil One [Red] Automotive Grease , Lithium Grease

Matt_26 said:

Thanks for the heads up guys. After removing the Small plastic ring from the bottom of the Duracell primary i'm using the light is plenty bright enough. The ring was causing havoc to the qtc.

Wouldn't want to risk that kind damage if I'm honest.

I put a little teflon grease on the threads as they were dry. Not sure if this is ideal. What do you think?

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Is there any way to buy Mobil One [Red] Automotive Grease in a smaller tube. I can only find in the large tubes for grease guns. A large tube might be enough for a 1000 years.

Thank you shudaizi! As my light will be getting used very often I think I shall invest in the best lube! Krytox it is.

Not that I'm aware of, but I haven't done an exhaustive search either.

Blueskies123 said:

Is there any way to buy Mobil One [Red] Automotive Grease in a smaller tube. I can only find in the large tubes for grease guns. A large tube might be enough for a 1000 years.

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Matt, my pleasure! Just passing along info others have produced. I use Krytox (actually a repackaged version: Christo-lube) for my stainless, anodized aluminum and Titanium lights too. Really smoothed my stainless Eiger out -- it had Nyogel on it and was always stiff and "sticky" to turn. Much easier now.

Matt_26 said:

Thank you shudaizi! As my light will be getting used very often I think I shall invest in the best lube! Krytox it is.

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