A Primer on Modern Watch History and Movements.

Monocrom

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Have noticed lately that there's more interest in watches on CPF than in past years. As a watch enthusiast, I love seeing that. However, some members might enjoy a run-down of the most important aspect of a watch ... the movement. But first, a condensed history of the modern watch industry.

When pocket-watches no longer became simply fascinating mechanical marvels for royalty and the wealthiest of nobleman to enjoy, mainly thanks to the dawn of the Industrial Revolution which brought parts costs down substantially, the common man could afford them. Little actually changed though regarding pocket-watches themselves. Other than most were now no longer produced with a staggering amount of complications (features) built into the watches. (In at least one case, 32 different complications. And that's not the highest number stuffed into a mechanical pocket watch either, while still allowing a reasonable size for carrying it. Makes modern-day G-Shocks look less impressive.) Significantly less precious metals were used as well. In some cases brass was used instead of gold for the watch cases themselves. Brass can be polished to a nice shine.

Pocket-watches for the common man were often simple affairs (in terms of complications). Though some were still made with luxury in mind. Many pocket-watches often featured Roman Numerals around the dial and two hands. One for the hours and one for the minutes. That was it. (BTW, the reason why old-fashioned pocket-watch dials [and grand-father clocks] feature "IIII" for the 4 o'clock marker instead of the proper "IV," is due to the Roman language itself. IV is sometimes confused for the Roman word "God." Thus it would look very odd to have a dial which reads, One, Two, Three, God, Five. Therefore, you often see "IIII" in place of "IV.") In case one's watch might accidentally stop due to forgetting to wind it once a day, quite a few pocket watches also featured a continuous-running small seconds hand inside a sub-dial. Glance at a pocket-watch's dial, and if the seconds hand wasn't moving, you knew your watch stopped. No date feature (hadn't been invented yet).

Old-fashioned pocket watches were delicate affairs. Though to be honest, not nearly as delicate as modern-day Smartphones. (Which many use as pocket-watches for telling the time.) A collection of mainly small gears and springs, pocket-watches had to be wound by using the crown, once each day to work all day long. Often they were wound every morning. (In Bram Stoker's "Dracula," Jonathan Harker specifically mentions winding his pocket-watch every night before going to bed.) The crown also set the hands. Which was sometimes done quite often as mechanical pocket-watches for a very long time, simply were not very accurate. Once pocket-watches became common, there was no innovation. None, for years upon years. It was seen as unnecessary. And then something changed that. Something forced innovation upon the watch industry ...

Railroad standards for pocket-watches became standardized during the very early 20th Century (though they did exist many years prior). This was due to a horrific train accident in 1891 in America. A train came barreling into a station which was still occupied by the train ahead of it on the schedule. The tragedy cost many lives. Including that of the conductor of the train that was still in the station. Though he was not killed in the crash itself. Blaming himself and feeling horribly guilty, the conductor committed suicide that night. To add more tragedy to this train collision, the official investigation revealed that the conductor was not at fault. His pocket-watch had been accurate. The watch belonging to the conductor of the other train had been running too fast. Thus, causing him to believe it was several minutes later than it really was. Thus, the other train came into the station too early.

In order to make sure this never happened again, numerous railroads in America agreed that timepieces needed to all be standardized across the industry. There were no quartz watches back then. Just relatively inaccurate mechanical ones. (This is why it bothers me that some modern-day quartz watches have "Railroad Approved" printed on the dials of their watches. Usually white-dial wrist-watches with a bit of an old-fashioned look. Neither wrist-watches nor quartz movement existed when these standards went into place. So, it's just an empty marketing ploy.)

So, innovation was demanded. Hamilton especially came out on top back then. They were able to meet the very tight and rigid standards demanded from the railroads. Basically, no bigger variation in gaining or losing 4 seconds daily (Maximum variation of only 30 seconds a week). Now that standard is very easy for a quartz movement to meet. An absolutely herculean effort for a mechanical watch that typically would vary sometimes a handful of minutes a day. Hamilton and a few other American watch brands pulled it off. Back during the start of the 20th Century, if you wanted the absolutely best watch you could get; you didn't buy a Swiss-Made timepiece. You bought an American-made Hamilton. Rolex existed back then. But it had a very different reputation than it does now. Rolex back then was new and was a British brand known as simply a caser. (Putting movements and quite a few parts made from established brands into their own cases and selling the completed watches for very little money.)

During the Boer War, officers realized the short-comings of pocket-watches and began wearing wrist-watches. The early wrist-watches were little more than converted pocket-watches. (Wrist-watches being seen primarily as dainty pieces of jewelry for women.) So, in 1899, pocket-watches first became obsolete. Though it took the rest of the world approximately 25 years to realize that as well. When the first World War broke out, many officers and soldiers went into battle wearing converted pocket-watches on their wrists. The conversions were done by independent watchmakers who were very plentiful back then. The conversions typically involved removal of the latch, replacement of the large crown and stem with a much smaller crown, rotating the movement and dial so that the crown was now positioned at the 3 o'clock position instead of the 12. Next came soldering lugs with fixed bars to the top and bottom of the case. Followed by attachment of (usually) a very thin strap of flexible leather. Thus, the first Men's wrist-watch. Though nothing was done to beef up the durability of the watches. Some were crude affairs. Others downright good-looking. Soon, watch brands began making dedicated Men's wrist-watches. With Cartier being the first.

As usual with the watch industry, things became stagnant again. Wrist-watches require smaller parts. And small wrist-watches were in style. (Those same Men's watches are today considered Ladies-sized.) Smaller parts generally means less accuracy. Though mechanical watch movements are available in different grades. The best in the Swiss industry is called Chronometer grade. Watch movements are tested in various positions. And Chronometer grade ones are certified to not vary more than 7 seconds a day and not less than 4 seconds a day. Though honestly, Japanese brands such as Seiko can easily do better. And often have with domestic market models. In America we get decent mechanical models with plenty of deviation. Though Chronometer (COSC) grade movements are generally over-hyped and command huge premiums. Any experienced independent watchmaker can open up a mechanical watch and regulate it so it becomes more accurate for you. Though it still won't be absolutely spot-on. Regulating a watch with a decent mechanical movement inside is both easy and inexpensive.

World War II was a dark time. Many sacrifices were made. The most obscure of which ended up being the entire American watch industry. While the Swiss did make certain changes during war-time that would ultimately appeal to Post-war customers, the American watch industry was put on absolute hold. No watches for the civilian market. Military personnel only during the duration of the war. When the war was over, American brands were forced to play catch-up to the Swiss. Ultimately, they never caught up. After 1952, Hamilton slowly became less and less American as more and more watch parts were bought, shipped over, and put into their watches. Hamilton and other U.S. brands incrementally became less and less American-Made in all the ways that truly mattered.

The biggest change to the industry came in the form of the Quartz revolution from Japan in the 1970s. Traditional brands from America, Switzerland, and Germany all saw the warning signs. But laughed at the thought that the Japanese and quartz technology were any real threat. The result? ... What was left of the American watch industry died. (Only in recent years have a few micro brands tried to revive it. The only one with any real success has been RGM.) The Swiss watch industry would have died too. Nick Hayek consolidated 20 Swiss brands in order keep much of the industry alive. Quartz technology in the 1970's was incredibly expensive. Mechanical watches were seen as horribly obsolete and outdated. Quartz watches offered many advantages over mechanical ones.

More accuracy, by far. Even compared to mechanical watches that meet COSC standards. Far more durable than mechanical watches. Far less servicing required. (Much of the time, just changing the battery is all that's needed.) Not subject to getting magnetized the way mechanical watches can. (Instead of losing a few seconds a day, imagine losing 20 - 30 minutes a day. And fixing the problem requires a de-magnetizer. Now you can buy a cheap one off eBay. Back then, it required finding a watchmaker with the right machine.) Also, nowadays quartz watches are cheap because quartz technology has become incredibly inexpensive.

No lie, no joke ... A $5 digital quartz watch purchased at the supermarket is going to be far more accurate and durable than mechanical watches. Even some mechanical models costing literally as much as a nice house. (No, that's not a typo.)

While certain Swiss brands, such as Rolex, came out unscathed after the '70s. The vast majority did not and would not have survived had it not been for consolidation. (Monopolies are not frowned upon in Switzerland. Just the opposite as a matter of fact.) The largest consolidation once again took place thanks to Mr. Hayek. In the '80s, he decided to beat the Japanese at their own game. Swatch was created. And became wildly popular among teens. Especially young girls who often wore several Swatches on each arm. So popular that the consolidation officially became known as The Swatch Group. Incorporating 19 of the biggest brands in the industry. (Oris was not happy with its position within the consolidation and its employees bought Oris out of it before it official became the Swatch Group.) Ironically, the vast majority of the Swiss watch industry (including many luxury brands) survived and now thrive because it was saved by Swatch. A brand known for making cheap, often funky, quartz watches designed primarily to appeal to young girls as fashion accessories.

The Swatch Group exists today and controls a very significant share of the market. ETA, a Swatch Group brand that makes mechanical movements for pretty much the entire watch industry (except for Japan, and China) is now controlled by Nick Hayek Jr., along with the rest of the Swatch Group. The latest update to the industry is that he has decided that ETA will no longer supply movements to non-Swatch Group brands. Other Swiss-based mechanical movement makers do exist. Though none as huge as ETA. Supply of ETA movements will be gradually reduced and finally cut off completely by the year 2019. ETA will lose out on massive profits. Though even the very small micro brands won't go out of business. There are options such as the other Swiss movement makers and Japanese brands such as Seiko, and Citizen. (Citizen's Miyota mechanical movements in particular are excellent. And the Japanese are willing to do business with brands they don't own.)

With regards to the prestige that "Swiss-Made" watches enjoy. The sad reality is that for most such brands, (though not all) it has become a marketing gimmick. Currently, any watch that is assembled (not made) in Switzerland up to just 51%; legally qualifies as "Swiss-Made" in that nation. Many so-called "Swiss-Made" watches have a great deal of parts inside made in China and other nations. Among watch enthusiasts and collectors, it's the worst-kept secret in the watch industry. Basically, if a "Swiss-Made" watch costs less than several thousands of dollars, you're getting something that only meets that nation's legal definition of the term.

Unfortunately mechanical movements are no longer made by the hands of skilled and experienced artisans. They haven't been made that way in a very long time. Often, machines put mechanical watches together. A worker then inspects them. Perhaps a bit of hand-polishing of parts, at best. This is true of all inexpensive brands, and many luxury brands. Just an unfortunate truth of what the industry has become.

Below are a couple of vids. that go into precise detail regarding mechanical, and quartz movements. (If I didn't include the vids., this post would easily be 3x bigger.) The one for mechanical movements is from 1949. But honestly, very little has changed regarding mechanical movements since then. The biggest one is the addition of a free-swinging rotor which very slowly winds the spring with each movement of your arm and body. Thus, if you stay active, there's no need to wind your mechanical watch once a day. A mechanical with such a rotor placed on top of the movement is known as an "automatic" or an automatic movement. The addition of that rotor is literally the only difference between a mechanical watch and an automatic watch.

Quartz watches are well-known but the vid. should help with regards to details.

There are specialized movements. One is called Kinetic. Basically the disadvantages of both automatic watches and quartz watches all rolled up in one. Seiko is the only brand able to make decent Kinetic watches. Pretty much every other brand has abandoned the technology. Instead of a rotor winding a spring, your arm movements charge up a battery inside the watch. So if you have a desk job, your watch is likely to stop (like an automatic). Plus, your watch might die anyway when the battery finally gets old (like a traditional quartz watch).

We also have solar-powered watches. Seiko has a line of those. But Citizen's Eco-Drive technology is King of the Mountain. All the advantages of quartz without the biggest disadvantage of the battery dying without notice 1 to 3 years after you buy the watch. There's a battery in there. But it's a special solar-powered rechargeable one that can be recharged with artificial light (like your favorite flashlight). Plus, Eco-Drive models typically last over a full decade before the special battery needs replacing. (This is where Citizen screws up with their marketing. Yes, you will need to replace a battery with an Eco-Drive watch. You'll just not need to do it anytime soon.) Battery replacement requires buying the special battery yourself off eBay and finding a good independent watchmaker to open up your Citizen. Or, you'll have to ship your watch off to Japan for Citizen to properly service your Eco-Drive watch. I have a Citizen BM7080-03E Eco-Drive model. It has been absolutely fantastic! I consider Eco-Drive watches to be high-end quartz and I recommend them highly.

Before ending this post (yup, there's more; but not much more [I promise]) I'd like to invite any CPFers who want to know more about the watch Industry and watch movements to please post your questions in this topic. I'll monitor it closely. (You think I'm not going to after typing all that above?) And will do my best to answer your questions. I didn't get into in-house movements vs. ETA-based ones. But if you want to know about that or literally anything else watch related, just go ahead and ask.



 
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Monocrom

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Woah! Have not had time to finish this post, but THANKS! I am a minor WIS so appreciate the detailed info!

You should have seen how long that post was before I edited it.

I have to admit, I was surprised as Hell to see someone already posted a reply. I understand though. Take your time to read it over. Take your time, then post any questions you have. Happy to help out any fellow CPFers who want to learn about watches. Basically, I condensed 3 years of learning into pretty much one post.
 

mvyrmnd

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Thanks for the post. I've been hanging around over at watchuseek, but this is a nice and concise primer. Nicely done.
 

Raze

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Was about to pull the trigger at Watchismo.

Thanks for the excellent informative read. (Like your post in the Fountain Pen Network)
 

persco

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(BTW, the reason why old-fashioned pocket-watch dials [and grand-father clocks] feature "IIII" for the 4 o'clock marker instead of the proper "IV," is due to the Roman language itself. IV is sometimes confused for the Roman word "God." Thus it would look very odd to have a dial which reads, One, Two, Three, God, Five. Therefore, you often see "IIII" in place of "IV.")

Great post, Monocrom. I love this thread. One thing, however: Not sure the above is historically accurate. The Roman language was Latin, not "Roman." The Latin word for god is deus. Though, the word would appear as DEVS -- with a V indicating U, I'm not sure there would be enough confusion to explain the IIII instead of IV.
 

RTR882

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I'm into watches (mechanical), great post! Please keep doing it! FWIW, I have an old Seiko automatic Chronograph dating from the late 70's. At the time it was the first automatic chrono on the market. It is still am amazing time keeper - the equal of a modern Rolex chronometer. Says something about Japanese movements. Any comments on the Spring Drive?

Best,
Bob
 

smokinbasser

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I have and wear daily my Seiko day/date chronograph I bought in SEA in 1968. One cleaning and crystal replacement has kept it in excellent condition.
 

DrafterDan

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@Monocrom - You must be a fast typist, or have way more spare time than I do. Nice posting. It's always fun to see the watch spark lit in someone's eyes.
 

Jumpmaster

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Can you explain what it means if a manual-winding watch has "low amplitude" and what causes that? I understand that it means the watch's balance wheel doesn't rotate "enough", but why does that cause the watch to run fast? Are there any good resources for how to service manual-wind watches? (The one I have with this problem is a pocket watch)...

FWIW, it keeps time pretty well as long as I keep it wound frequently...
 

Jumpmaster

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Yep...mine is a Hamilton 992...

I did a LOT of research online before deciding on a "railroad" type watch. I thought about trying to summarize it just now, but don't want people to start nitpicking my generalizations. :) But if you have questions, please PM me and I will answer them.
 
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Monocrom

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Some great responses. Bear with me guys, I suck at multi-quoting.
____________________
~ mvyrmnd:

Thank you. Feel free to ask about anything watch related. :)
____________________
~ Raze:

Thank you. Though a bit confused. I'm not a member on that site. You will find me in the "Pens & Writing instruments" sub-forum on Watch U seek (along with most of the other forums on there). Ironically, I do have an extensive background in the pen industry as well. Having once sold a wide variety of pen brands in a High-End shop.

My user-name is fairly common. (The guy listed as "Monocrom" over on Facebook, yeah; that's someone else.) I try to use the same avatar and user-name on the different sites I enjoy visiting. Though that would be rather ironic if another guy using "Monocrom" also had extensive knowledge of pens. Though if he's using the same avatar, yeah; just a bit creepy.
____________________
~ persco:

The main issue was the outlying regions when Rome expanded outwards in basically all directions. Though not discussed openly in Rome, towards the latter years of the Roman empire, the inhabitants of the outlying regions held onto their beliefs and their Gods. The Romans were no longer interested in taking the time to completely try to subjugate those groups living that far away, though still technically part of the Empire. As long as they accepted being part of the Empire, that was seen as "good enough."

Reports apparently got back to Rome that the word for "God" was being abbreviated. In some cases, to "IV" and that certain outlying regions were confused regarding, as you mentioned, "V" as used to mean "U" (Bulgari still does this with their watches. Substituting "V" for the "U" in their brand name.) Though the latter apparently was cleared up back then. It was decided that it would just be easier to use "IIII" instead of "IV." Not a ton of documentation out there regarding the confusion. But by then, it was seen as best to do whatever was needed to hold the Empire together as Rome had extended way too far in the Ancient world. Likely would not have been an issue in a modern age of telephones, computers, and airplanes.
____________________
~ RTR882:

Seiko is horribly underrated. Their Spring Drive movement is the absolute best marriage of mechanical and quartz technology. Though the biggest issue for owners outside of Japan is going to be servicing. You're simply not going to find an Old-World, independent, watchmaker with real skill (what few of them that are left) who'll be able to actually service a Spring Drive model. That's the main issue. Despite the fact that Seiko introduced the first Spring Drive model to the public over a decade ago, independent watchmakers simply haven't jumped on the Spring Drive innovation. They have no desire to learn how to properly service a hybrid movement. Part of that is Seiko's fault as in many nations, including America, we get flooded with Seiko's cheapest quartz offerings. Even with automatic Seiko timepieces, despite it's popularity among enthusiasts, the iconic SKX007 is not known for its accuracy. (Only recently having had Seiko's workhorse 7S26 movement in the model updated to a slightly better one.) Despite being iconic, Seiko could easily do better. But the outlook is that American buyers want cheap and reliable. And indeed, that's what the general public wants. Meaning watch enthusiasts and collectors sometimes miss out on getting their hands on a Spring drive model.
____________________
~ smokinbasser:

Hate to be the bearer of bad news. And to be clear, your situation is extremely common. Mechanical watches can run for years or even decades while corroding away on the inside. Even while keeping time rather accurately. I have no clue why mechanical timepieces are able to do that, I just know they do. I couldn't tell you the process involved in which a caterpillar turns into a butterfly. I just know it happens, and it happens all the time.

It's not just due to corrosion or even rust caused by water or water-vapor that seeps into a watch case because the seals haven't been replaced in years or decades and therefore can no longer keep out moisture. Mechanical watches need oil. Not a great deal. An absolutely miniscule amount of it. But they still need it. A watch that hasn't been serviced in many years or even decades ... You've got metal grinding on metal. Not at a high rate of speed. But that's what's happening inside your watch. Made in 1968, certain worn out parts are going to be nearly impossible to replace. Unless that cleaning included a thorough servicing of the movement, and took place not too long ago, there likely is going to be quite a bit of damage on the inside. Sorry.
____________________
~ DrafterDan:

Thanks. Lots of spare time right now ... And an inability to type. After editing, that initial post of mine too a handful of hours. (Not Kidding.)

I plan on getting some Dragon software in the near future. Talk, and the computer types for you.
____________________
~ Jumpmaster:

I'm sorry but when it comes to the absolute finer details of correcting issues that mechanical watches experience, that's beyond the scope of my knowledge. A competent independent watchmaker should be able to trouble-shoot that type of issue for a small fee. I do know that the normal amplitude in a watch running properly is going to be about 400 degrees. Not sure what causes it to be less than 400.

I do know that when the balance wheel over-rotates, it can hit the lever fork just on the outside of it. This causes it to stop. But then it accelerates which causes it to over-rotate in the opposite direction. It's not how a watch should properly work. This back & forth can go on for as long as 30 minutes after you wind your watch. And because it's just over-rotating in both directions, your watch can gain an insane amount of time. That's usually why watches will run hyper-fast. Though, once again, that's just speculation on my part based on my limited knowledge of the intricate details of mechanical watch movements. It's not that the balance wheel doesn't rotate enough, it's that it's over-rotating due to the amplitude being too low.

Unfortunately, no such book or reference manual that I know of which teaches how to properly service an older, manual-wind movement. That type of work requires very specialized (usually costly) tools and often a steady hand as good as a surgeon's. Vintage pocket-watches are definitely not something you want to DIY. If you're located near a major city, you should be able to track down a handful of independent watchmakers. Realistically an average of two of them will likely be willing to work on it. Than again, I live in NYC where there are a few such Old World watchmakers. Keeping your pocket-watch frequently wound so that it performs properly might indicate a gummed up movement inside. How long has it been since it was serviced, or did you buy it used from someone? Sorry I couldn't help you more.
____________________
~ Obijuan Kenobe:

Jumpmaster beat me to it. Anything from Hamilton. Especially the 992.

Another brand worth checking out is Ball (Yup, "Ball;" that's not a typo). Just watch out for any searches that pull up the modern-day watch brand with the same name. Ball of today definitely is not the old Ball company. New Ball claims to be American but owners of the brand are in Hong Kong. Parts used in Ball timepieces of today come from China.

Also take a look at vintage pocket-watches made by Illinois Watch Company. Those are worth buying as well.
 
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Flying Turtle

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Thanks for the primer, Monocrom. Great work and great info for a relative noob to the nuts and bolts of watches like me. It sparked me into delving into demagnetizing on various forums. I think that's the problem with a Vostok I gave up on a few years ago. It does seem to deflect a compass pretty much. Probably got it too close to the graphite furnace I used in my old lab job. Somewhere around here I've got an ancient tape head demagnetizer that I'll try if I can find it. Might also try the degaussing trick with an old computer monitor. I'll report if I think this works.

Geoff
 

Bullzeyebill

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Good info here. I've been delving into Seiko diver automatic movements lately and learning something about Seiko's made for the US market vs overseas markets. Seiko introduced a new automatic movement that, in effect, updates the tried and true Cal 7s26 The new Cal being the Cal 4R35, 4R36. The newer movements is windable and hacking. I went to my watch maker and he had no info on that new model, and showed me the his current US catalog for Seiko. It showed only three Divers and none were based on the new 4R35, 4R36 movement. I ended up ordering one from Amazon, went back to my watchmaker and he said that overseas models, not US marketed, were only available overseas and would have no warranty, or service from Seiko US. I was a lesson for me, and while I do enjoy my new Orange Monster with the 4R36 movement, it may be difficult for me to source parts for it here in the good old USA. Luckiy, my watchmaker can service most anything, including automatic Rolex's.

Maybe you can shed more light on the different movements available worldwide that may never make it into the US.

Bill
 
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Monocrom

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Thanks for the primer, Monocrom. Great work and great info for a relative noob to the nuts and bolts of watches like me. It sparked me into delving into demagnetizing on various forums. I think that's the problem with a Vostok I gave up on a few years ago. It does seem to deflect a compass pretty much. Probably got it too close to the graphite furnace I used in my old lab job. Somewhere around here I've got an ancient tape head demagnetizer that I'll try if I can find it. Might also try the degaussing trick with an old computer monitor. I'll report if I think this works.

Geoff

Please keep us updated. Hopefully it'll work in giving your Vostok new life.

Glad you enjoyed the primer.
 

Monocrom

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Good info here. I've been delving into Seiko diver automatic movements lately and learning something about Seiko's made for the US market vs overseas markets. Seiko introduced a new automatic movement that, in effect, updates the tried and true Cal 7s26 The new Cal being the Cal 4R15, 4R16. The newer movements is windable and hacking. I went to my watch maker and he had no info on that new model, and showed me the his current US catalog for Seiko. It showed only three Divers and none were based on the new 4R15 movement. I ended up ordering one from Amazon, went back to my watchmaker and he said that overseas models, not US marketed, were only available overseas and would have no warranty, or service from Seiko US. I was a lesson for me, and while I do enjoy my new Orange Monster with the 4R15 movement, it may be difficult for me to source parts for it here in the good old USA. Luckiy, my watchmaker can service most anything, including automatic Rolex's.

Maybe you can shed more light on the different movements available worldwide that may never make it into the US.

Bill

Rather odd that your watchmaker said that. The Orange monsters as well as the Black monsters are available in America. Though it's possible that the ones with the newer movements haven't yet been approved for the American market. That'll likely change soon though as Seiko is very slowly phasing out their 7S26. Despite having a reputation for durability, the lack of hacking and hand-winding along with its less than stellar accuracy is why Seiko is very slowly phasing it out.

Regarding different movements world-wide, the truth is, the actual number is quite small. Excluding the specific ones already covered in this topic, nearly everything out there is some sort of variation of ETA's absolute workhorse 2824. There are some genuine in-house movements from the recognized High-End brands. But I'm not too familiar with those specialized mechanical movements.

Sea-Gull (one of the better Chinese watch brands) simple took the ETA 2824 and reverse-engineered it. Sellita (most well-known movement-maker actually based in Switzerland that isn't part of the Swatch Group) used to be a sub-contractor for ETA not too long ago. Thus, quite a few watches out there with ETA movements inside that were actually assembled by Sellita. Sellita's SW-200 is literally an ETA 2824-2 but with one extra jewel tossed in. (It's just there to distinguish one from the other.) Literally just as good as the ETA version. Though it doesn't enjoy as good of a reputation due to early teething issues when Sellita started making their SW-200. Also, ironically, despite being identical twins; there's very little parts interchangeability between the two.

I have noticed that watch companies based outside of Switzerland tend to be a lot more guarded with what goes into their in-house movements than those located in that nation. (Every watchmaker in the world knows how to service Rolex's in-house movements.) If it's not in-house though (and the vast majority of mechanical movements aren't) it's going to likely be some variation of ETA's 2824 movement. If it has a Day of the Week complication as well as a Date complication, then ETA's 2836. Which is literally just a 2824 with a Day complication tossed in.

It's scary how utterly dependent the watch industry, even outside of Switzerland, has been on ETA in the past to supply watch movements for the rest of them. So much so, that the news that 2019 was the cut-off for all non-Swatch Group brands has shaken the whole of the watch world. Except for Seiko, Citizen, and other Japanese brands. The Chinese are fine too since they already reverse-engineered the ETA 2824 long ago.

Hate to say it, but there really isn't much variety out there considering the sheer number of different watch brands. Both well-known and obscure micro-brands. When there is a difference, it's often concentrating on improving a stock mechanical movement. Such as silicone o-rings over rubber. Use of modern non-magnetic metals in the movement to increase resistance to magnetic fields. Those sorts of evolutionary improvements over designing a ton of different mechanical movements. Some brands, such as Damasko, have excelled at the evolutionary over revolutionary process.
 
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Bullzeyebill

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Made a correction, though not really important, to my post. I have the Orange Monster with the 4R36 movement, windeable and hacking. Apparently Seiko is cutting back on their automatic movements for US markets and concentrating on the Solar/Quartz movements, trying to do catch up with Citizen, no doubt. I have one of Seiko's Solar Diver's (200 meter), also with an orange face.

Bill
 

Monocrom

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Made a correction, though not really important, to my post. I have the Orange Monster with the 4R36 movement, windeable and hacking. Apparently Seiko is cutting back on their automatic movements for US markets and concentrating on the Solar/Quartz movements, trying to do catch up with Citizen, no doubt. I have one of Seiko's Solar Diver's (200 meter), also with an orange face.

Bill

Unfortunately, that part is true. Have to cater to one's core customer base in any given nation. Sadly, in America, that means mainly quartz or solar-powered quartz. I like quartz. Especially enjoy wearing my Titanium-cased Citizen Eco-Drive BM7080-03E model as my main EDC watch. But unfortunately, it means missing out on quite a few excellent mechanical models that Seiko makes for their domestic market in Japan.
 

PCC

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 28, 2007
Messages
2,326
Location
Sitting' on the dock o' The Bay...
I wonder how the Omega 1012 movement fits into all this?

Are loose movements available for purchase anywhere in small quantities? There used to be a member here, I forgot his tag, but, his name is Stefan, who had a hobby of buying old pocket watches that were not working and adapting modern movements into them. Sounds like something I might look into.
 
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