Wizard configuration

I know you've found that a Wizard 700 or 750 would not be advisable, but how about a 600? I think the option to run a LxIII on 1x123, 2xAA, 3xAA, or 2x123 all with regulation would be great.

Any thoughts on this?

Beretta,

Check with UFOKiller as I believe he has a couple of these.

I totally agree!

I t drive me CRAZY trying to decide between BB and DB. (1 or 2x123)

Isnt the efficiency of the Wizard around 76%?
If Wayne could somehow get that alittle higher, along with higher mA. This would be GREAT !!!!!!!!!!!

I think he has tried in the past though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I thought Wayne has said in the past that, given the some sort of limitations in the chip(??) used in a Wizard, 400ma is pretty much the highest output possible.

Jon

[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
Beretta,

Check with UFOKiller as I believe he has a couple of these.

[/ QUOTE ]

He should actually check with you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif you made me a McLux PR with Wizard 600 and R2H and a KL4 head with Wizard 600 and R2H.

The wizard works great at 600ma, still running on original set of batteries. The Wizard isnt the most efficient board, but sure is the most convinient. 600ma is about the upperlimit of what the Wizard will do without getting knocked our of regulation or blowing something. Wayne Y confirmed that it will do 600 fine, but 700 is too much for the IC to handle. McGizmo built them for me =). Thanks Don.

I get it now. UFOK has a couple that were built, not a couple boards that haven't been installed yet. If they are still running happily, then it sounds like that's exactly what I want.

I will have to ask for a "special" at the shoppe then.

Thanks guys!

I'm interested in making McLux PR + Wizard 600 and have some questions. Can someone help?

- It seems Wizard doesn't have the battery contact circle that is required to make contact with the battery anode. How can I make it? I have a dead BB board so I may be able to use it.
- How to adjust the output currect? Replacing a resister as usual?

kj,

The Wizard as you have noticed doesn't have a anode contact. Depending on your application, you can use a dead board and make one from the that, or I could offer you a pacman board which I still have a few.

The Wizard only has a single sense resistor and you will have to stack vertically on the one footprint two or more resistors to get the desired output current. It's the same IC as in Badboy, so the formula for Badboy or Downboy apply to Wizard as well.

Wayne

Has it been mentioned that the wizard in E-can is a doable PITA? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Wayne,

Thank you very much. Now I'm clear. As for the pacman board, that would be great if you can sell me the one. I used to use my dead board for experiments so I want to reserve the one. Would you put it in the special request category?

Kenji

Hi Don,

Any tips for this less skilled guy? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Is 600mA the ceiling for the Wizard board?

It probably can take more then 600ma, but less then 700ma =p someone with more free time then Wayne should go test it. But the limiting factor here is the IC itself, since it has to handle Current in and the Current out to the Luxeon. If you have a good IC =p yours could possibly do more, if you have a bad IC, yours could possibly do less.