Thinking of making a moon blaster!

Hi everyone,

Hope all is well.

As the title says,

1. blitz 240 - check
2. osram p-vip 120 1.0 - check
3. osram pt-vip 100/120 1.0 arc gap - in the post
4. 150w inverter 12v - 240v - check
5. 3 12v 7ah SLA's in parallel - check - will keep it shoulder strapped for the time being untill i find out whether i should pack some batteries into a little box under the blitz.
6. ceramic base lamp holder - still need to source/order
7. exhaust putty to afix the lamp - at the local super cheap auto shop

Got some updated pictures - next post.

Please excuse the iphone pics. I do have a better better quality point and shoot cam. (left it at my bro's house)

blitz 240 with the bi-pin osram 36 volter - enjoy

p-vip 120 coming soon i hope.

going to smash the reflector housing to get the lamp out.

also have in my possession a couple of those hid lamps with the ceramic insulation.

I was actually wondering how i will extend the lead wire with the ceramic insulator toward the base where the bulb with be potted.

cheers.

almost forgot i need to grab one of those bulb holders, cement putty.....

ok.

so got my hands on my point and shoot. its a powershot s95 with a manual option where you can set iso, shutter and aperture.

yet to tingle around with that for the beamshots.

i've also did a bit of thread searching and found out that id need to short the exit side of the optocouplers.

ive updated the pictures in the 2nd or 3rd post with some descriptions.


i was wondering, do i need to keep the electronics cool particularly the bulb with some fan system??

if anyone would like to comment, please feel free!

hugely appreciated. - Joe.

p.s waiting for the lamp to arrive.

my neighbour gave me a brand new face sheild and ear muffs, i have gloves handy.

will defenitely get rugged up for the smashing of the reflector for the osram p-vip 120 1.0.

i'm just needing at the moment, the ceramic base lamp holder that will fit into the blitz's metal base holder. oh and some exhaust putty!!!!.....

Ok, so i though i'd add some beamshots of the blitz 240 with 400 watt Osram HLX 64663 bulb.

As you can see my point and shoot Canon S95 on auto does a decent job of some clear pictures.

I tried messing around with the iso, aperture and f settings, but couldnt master it and was impatient.

Hope you enjoy.....

By the way the blitz got very hot after 5 minutes of run time. I wouldnt advise running that 400 watter any longer in the blitz.

im just wondering how the p-vip 120 is going to fair

Nice pics. That seems like a pretty even hotspot and tons of lumens in the side-spill. I can imagine it does get pretty hot.

"Das grüne Scheusal" ist a light made by a guy in the German TLF forum names "sma". He is also registered here on CPF under the same name. To see the pictures you need to register in the TLF. Use google translate for the text. Or just message him here on CPF.

Mr. Tone, my only problem with the 400watt set-up is focusing the beam and keeping the head of the blitz attached to the handle as the bulb is probably 4 - 5 times larger than the stock 100watt bulb that came with the blitz...

I need to modify the base where the bulb sits in so the filament sits with-in the focusing point of the reflector, enough so there is thread to keep the reflector/head unit tight and not about to fall off as it is here.



The Driver - I seen that already, that uhp light, when i see it light up the darkness, makes me want to swear, but im afraid if i start swearing, i may ignite some attention from moderators haha..... Check my pics below...

ok, so after ordering a osram pt-vip 2ac/380 ballast from Ebay, i managed to blow the capacitor by being a tad reckless and admittedly not knowing what i was doing.

after doing some more research, i picked up a large 71inch rear projection tv and pulled out the contents of that.

to find this







And theres me shorting the 2nd and 3rd optocoupler legs, i was so happy.

i also connected my little 150w inverter with my 3 12volt motorbike batteries in parrallel and it made alot of noise and thankfully worked, but because i think the inverter ain't the most powerful box in the world, it started making a beeping alarm sounding warning me that it could not handle the light being on for too long...

so anyways, bit of spec on the new set of parts

As you can see, ive ripped the power supply out of the tv and used it to power up the lamp and ballast here.

the ballast is a EUC 132D P/31

LAMP,HIGH PRESSURE M UHP 120W/132W 1.0 PH


Would someone care to inform me, the cable connection to the actual lamp, if i were to connect the lamp in reverse polarity, would it be disastrous?

thanks in advance.... im also wondering if the lamp gets hot enough, how will my blitz fair hmmmm.....

i need to hit the sack, its past my bed time. good day/night folks.

joe.

just quickly before i close my eyes, i measured the voltage out of the power supply to be 330 volts.

if anyone wants me to test other figures, please let me know.

the tv is 71SA1D LG.

UNiT5 said:

Mr. Tone, my only problem with the 400watt set-up is focusing the beam and keeping the head of the blitz attached to the handle as the bulb is probably 4 - 5 times larger than the stock 100watt bulb that came with the blitz...

I need to modify the base where the bulb sits in so the filament sits with-in the focusing point of the reflector, enough so there is thread to keep the reflector/head unit tight and not about to fall off as it is here.



The Driver - I seen that already, that uhp light, when i see it light up the darkness, makes me want to swear, but im afraid if i start swearing, i may ignite some attention from moderators haha..... Check my pics below...

Click to expand...

I imagine getting a good focus is a major pain.

we'll get there.

It looks like you are having fun along the way and it's nice of you to share your experience with us.

Thanks mate!

We're not exactly on this Earth for a long time, might aswell shine lights at other planets while we're still alive haha.

Update;

1. Tapped 12v - 220v inverter to get 320volts for the ballast - works fine.
2. Manged to get the UHP bulb out of the reflector but the lead wire came loose.

I need expert or experienced advice please! Look at the pic!

Whats the best way to reconnect it so its sturdy enough. I also understand that i probably need to make the lead wire longer to feed it to the base of the holder.

Any suggestions on reconnecting that wire so its sturdy?

I'm thinking getting small metal square plates and screwing them tight together on each ends.

Also, this lamp gets so hot, how in hell am I going to keep it from melting the blitz.

ANY HELP APPRECIATED, BVH, I FEEL LIKE YOU MAY BE ABLE TO SHED SOME LIGHT, FEEL FREE TO JUMP IN.

Thanks in advance boys!

My $0.02 worth. I'm guessing the broke lead wire has a high content of Nickel as do the trigger wires found on arc lamps. The cleanest way to ATTEMPT repair would be to find someone with a Capacitive Discharge (CD) welder and have the two pieces welded together. But I'm not even sure it could be done with such a small gauge wire. Did it physically break or did it burn apart? It looks from this far distance that it burned. One other possibility is to use a typical automotive type butt connector and carefully crimp it. You would have to remove the plastic insulation first. But the bulb end wire looks very short so maybe it won't work and I think you're saying that the broken end goes into a yet to be made holder of some kind so a butt connector may be in the way? In the end, I don't think you can reliably save the lamp. How is the broken end of the lamp going to be supported with no metal base?

As far as heat goes, you would have to limit your run times to a minute or so at a time between cool downs.