water i dive in a river thats water is jet black ive build some using a truckheads high beam head light with a 12vot battery with a wire ran down with my air hose from the boat im wanting to keep my 12vot power source in the boat its just a standerd marine battery... now this water is very dark about like black coffee so im looking to build a light with a very wide beam thats as bright as possible so anyone got any idea as fare as LED and reflector size im thinking about 5 or 6 SST-90 they are the brightest right??? mounted in a single led reflector/module or maybe one that holds 3 LED'S and what i had in mind mounting them to a round aluminum disk about the size of a CD and 3/16 to 1/4 thick the back side would be exposed to water and the front you now would be sealed..but built like that i dont see where i would ever have any trouble with the LED'S over heating the water would keep it cool...
building a new dive light for dark!! DARK!
- Thread starter JLD
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hydropower
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2012
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The problem with a wide beam is that you illuminate all the particles right in front of your eyes. If you have a tight beam you can put the light on the object you want to look at from the side and by so not illuminate the particles in between.
Regarding the heat it's all about getting the heat from the LED to the water efficiently... It is not bad though to be able to turn the light on above water as well without starting flames
but that's more of a preference decision...
Skickat från min GT-I9300 via Tapatalk
Regarding the heat it's all about getting the heat from the LED to the water efficiently... It is not bad though to be able to turn the light on above water as well without starting flames
but that's more of a preference decision... Skickat från min GT-I9300 via Tapatalk
lucca brassi
Enlightened
if you want wide light and powerful you don't ned SST-90 some Bridgelux COB is quite OK http://www.bridgelux.com/products/vero-series/
or some cheaper variant like http://dx.com/p/100w-6500k-9000lm-led-white-light-module-white-dc-32-34v-155708
more lumen power you get from CSM-360/CBM-360 which is Quad SST-90 but it is $$$
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what you actualy need is powerful beam placed right above seabed ( like car fog lights not direct on seabed but ligt from side ) probably with big aspherics lens
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you will need at lest 24 V DC (12V+12V) for this to drive (3,7V *6 + 1,5 V driver ) you can use linear LDO (low drop output ) regulator
(look on http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...stable-10A-linear-LED-driver-New-and-Improved!)
or some cheaper variant like http://dx.com/p/100w-6500k-9000lm-led-white-light-module-white-dc-32-34v-155708
more lumen power you get from CSM-360/CBM-360 which is Quad SST-90 but it is $$$
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what you actualy need is powerful beam placed right above seabed ( like car fog lights not direct on seabed but ligt from side ) probably with big aspherics lens
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
you will need at lest 24 V DC (12V+12V) for this to drive (3,7V *6 + 1,5 V driver ) you can use linear LDO (low drop output ) regulator
(look on http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...stable-10A-linear-LED-driver-New-and-Improved!)
DIWdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
In stock configuration, that driver has a max input voltage of 12V. The automotive variant has a max of around 26V. That should be good for 2 12V batteries not on charge, but if they were charging the voltage would exceed the max input voltage of the driver. Of course, the driver could be further modified to handle up to 36V input by changing one resistor.
Running 6 LEDs at 3.7V each from 24V, that driver would be 92.5% efficient. Pretty darn good for a linear driver!
Mounting the LEDs (and driver?) on an alu plate directly exposed to water would keep them plenty cool. In air, it would rapidly reach dangerous temperatures. A simple thermal cutout (discussed in that thread) would help protect LEDs, driver, diver, and other equipment from this (there are stories of equipment being destroyed by a light that got turned on when the gear bag was tossed in the car).
Running 6 LEDs at 3.7V each from 24V, that driver would be 92.5% efficient. Pretty darn good for a linear driver!
Mounting the LEDs (and driver?) on an alu plate directly exposed to water would keep them plenty cool. In air, it would rapidly reach dangerous temperatures. A simple thermal cutout (discussed in that thread) would help protect LEDs, driver, diver, and other equipment from this (there are stories of equipment being destroyed by a light that got turned on when the gear bag was tossed in the car).
lucca brassi
Enlightened
I did't look on your driver spec , but some paralel LDO drivers with floating GND would quite good and simple do the job. It is important to hold voltage difference low (In/Out )
Of course it should be cooled down also there is no problem because battery would be on boat and large .
If you want switcher http://mysite.verizon.net/jminihane/id1.html
Of course it should be cooled down also there is no problem because battery would be on boat and large .
If you want switcher http://mysite.verizon.net/jminihane/id1.html
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out of curiousity, what makes the water that black?
In our waters visibility can be reduced from a few meters to next to zero due to sand and other stuff in the water, but it is usually not black at all.
What is the goal of the light? Just to see something?
In low visibility waters, you may want a very narrow beam to avoid back scatter making the visibility even worse.
(btw, please use some commas, points, newlines. it would make your post so much easier to read.)
Johan
In our waters visibility can be reduced from a few meters to next to zero due to sand and other stuff in the water, but it is usually not black at all.
What is the goal of the light? Just to see something?
In low visibility waters, you may want a very narrow beam to avoid back scatter making the visibility even worse.
(btw, please use some commas, points, newlines. it would make your post so much easier to read.)
Johan
