Cree r5 in G2 surefire

Okay, I've tried to browse for this, but I can't find enough information to get a definitive answer.
The Cree R5 is rated at 3.6-18v working voltage, but the the seller also says 3.6-8.4v
Working current is 450-600mah

Now is the max cr123 in series to add up to < 8.4 or <18

Welcome to CPF. Let's get that out of the way first. Now regarding your question about the P60 drop in? Much depends on who you purchased the P60 from. Many of the XPG-R5 P60 imports do come with a 3 to 18 volt regulator. But the biggest problem is believing what these sellers offer. You need to be experienced enough to take one apart (that is unless you want to do a "burn-in" test) and look at the driver board. If you have purchased enough of them you will recognize the correct part immediately. Your other option? Put some cells in series and take your chance.

You can add as many CR123 cells you need to achieve your goal of OAL voltage. But since there are relatively few 5 cell CR123 hosts you only have to seriously consider 9 to 12 volt applications. But first realize, I am only generalizing. There are exceptions.

jso902 said:

Okay, I've tried to browse for this, but I can't find enough information to get a definitive answer. The Cree R5 is rated at 3.6-18v working voltage, but the the seller also says 3.6-8.4v Working current is 450-600mah Now is the max cr123 in series to add up to < 8.4 or

Click to expand...

What is your question? Your post is filled with terms and figures that don't make much sense.

"Cree R5" is a meaningless term if you think you are referring to an LED or a SureFire drop-in . R5 is a flux bin rating. Cree is a company. It's like saying "Ford 302", thinking you are talking about a Mustang.

Presumably, you are referring to a Cree XP-G or similar generation LED. Those had roughly a forward voltage of around 3.3V when driven at the rated max forward current of 1A.

Your term "working voltage" has little to do with the LED. No doubt, that is the input voltage rating of the driver that powers the LED. The working voltage can be just about anything. It simply depends on what driver is being used. Thus, a seller claiming 3.6V to 8.4V "working voltage" could be entirely correct. His product probably uses a different driver than the product that is rated at 3.6V to 18V.

Similarly, "working current" depends on the driver. It could very well be in the 450mA to 600mA range. Or it could be 1000mA. Or something else.

If you are wondering how many 123A Li primary cells you can use before reaching the driver's max input voltage, it depends on what driver is being used. If someone claims that their product has a voltage input range of 3.6V to 8.4V, then absent any other knowledge about the product, that is the input voltage range that you have to go with. How can someone possibly know anything more about a driver without seeing it, knowing what brand of SureFire drop-in it is, seeing test results, datasheets, etc? Someone is selling a laptop computer. He claims it uses an Intel Razz-Ma-Tazz CPU rated at 3 GHz clock speed. Is this correct? How can anyone possibly know the answer to that without seeing the computer first or knowing the brand and model of the computer?

Duplicate

Edit note... Duplicate

Argh... I hate being new to android, tapatalk, flashlights and a new forum. I hope this will post correctly.

Thank you for the warm welcome and responses. I'm glad I wasn't the only one confused with what I had bought. The item is in the mail. So I won't know which driver it is until it arrives.

The bottom line question is how do i determine the max battery voltage in a series setup.
I have the option of 2, 3 and maybe 4 cr123.
I attached a screen shot of the item description.

It's not possible to advise on what the max Vbatt is since we don't know any reliable technical details about the driver, the ad copy is contradictory, and the seller apparently doesn't have a clue as to what he is selling.

What host do you plan to run the drop-in? If it is a SureFire 6P or equivalent, then just use 2x123A or 2x16340. They both meet the two "working voltage" specs in the ad copy and any drop-in that claims to be compatible with a 6P ought to be able to run with those two battery configurations.

yes, but 2x16340 is equivalent to 3 CR123 underload

But 3x123A won't fit into a 6P.

The implied point I was making was that for this drop-in, most likely both Li primaries and Li-ion secondaries would be part of the equation for a drop-in's power source. The reason is that regardless of which claimed Vbatt range is correct (assuming that one of them is correct), both of the contradicting specs are still consistent with running with up to 2xLi-ion (the Vbatt range was given as either 3.6V-18V or 3.6V to 8.4V). Thus, this drop-in, which claims to be compatible with the 6P, should be able to run on both 2x123A and 2x16340. They physically fit and there are no stated specs that contraindicate use of either battery configuration.

I would not have made this same implied assumption if the two contradicting Vbatts had been something like 3.6V to 18V and 3.6V to 6V. The latter would suggest the possibility that the driver is 7135-based and would fry under the load of 2xLi-ion.

Indeed, barring the early buck Derrelight drivers that were really 3.6-6V

But you know, while applicable, 6V input for 7135 drivers is a case of "because we can".
It can be done, it is in within the specs, but it is not actualy a good idea.
(too much heat, too much of a load on the batteries in many cases).

And I have seen the 3.6-6V marking only the past years, and that coming from the custom/semi-custom module builders.
No chinese site I have known has labeled the 7135 drivers as 3.6-6V

in the end it is judging by the seller and the market norm...(as so many other flashight stuff)

Ok... So the two number sets presumably would imply the led and driver, respectively.

kosPap said:

Indeed, barring the early buck Derrelight drivers that were really 3.6-6V

But you know, while applicable, 6V input for 7135 drivers is a case of "because we can".
It can be done, it is in within the specs, but it is not actualy a good idea.
(too much heat, too much of a load on the batteries in many cases).

And I have seen the 3.6-6V marking only the past years, and that coming from the custom/semi-custom module builders.
No chinese site I have known has labeled the 7135 drivers as 3.6-6V

in the end it is judging by the seller and the market norm...(as so many other flashight stuff)

Click to expand...

You are getting way wrapped around the axle over hypothetical "for examples".

jso902 said:

Ok... So the two number sets presumably would imply the led and driver, respectively.

Click to expand...

The two sets of numbers both probably refer to Vinput for the driver. The problem is that you don't know which one, if either, actually applies. Your typical modern Cree LED has a forward voltage in the low 3V range when driven at 1A. Perhaps that's the origin of the 3.6V lower limit -- it is Vf + voltage overhead. But it's all speculation. Of course, this is typical when you buy these random Chinese drivers from random sources who don't know anything about the product they are selling.

The Vinput range suggests that the driver could be a buck driver. Thus, one could speculate that the upper value is the max rated value for the buck IC, but that is certainly not a 100% reliable guess. It's just as iffy to guess what the lower voltage limit might refer to. It could be the min Vinput to reach full regulation for the LED at hand. Or maybe it is something else.

gotcha!... ok i found a member that did something I'm trying to do.
G2+ AN14 + 2x 17670. Here is the link
Since I can't play with the voltage too much, perhaps I can just add a great run time.
Will the protected circuit really be that important? there seems to be fit issues with the extra length.
at 3.7 x2 or 3.6 x2 = 7.2-7.4
Is there a specific company /brand that you would recommend?