Illum
Flashaholic
thought I do this just for fun, don't laugh fellas.
Exhibit 1: The iconic big orange lantern silly by today's standards. Output is a narrow point somewhere out in the boonies with zero spill and near zero practicality.
The difficulty in making a reversible retrofit is the opposing polarity of the PR lamp and that the battery is retained by the reflector. This one has no seals and no real window [plastic film], which made me wonder how it lasted through all those hurricane years.
A platform was built to mount the LEDs on, and consisted of three separate pieces of scrap aluminum.
a 2" section of C channel, a 3"x2"x1" aluminum enclosure plate, and a piece of fitting C bracket [this one happens to be steel, which I took advantage for rigidity]. Driver for reference only.
The C channel would serve as the stop for the battery [which will be replaced with a 6V lead Acid] as well as a space to fit a suitable driver.
I'm not hoping to turn it into an eyeball scorcher, but rather a functional splash resistant area light.
Thought to mention that a 8AA battery holder fits perfectly with just the right snugness. I can probably stack two or three 8-packs in there with eneloops.
Mounting the retainer to the body, looking good.
I dug up a 20LED assembly I tossed in the parts box originally mounted on one of these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_352725-47842-17783-003_0__?productId=3394398
Turned out to be a perfect fit. Since the original power adapter puts out 3.3V, I used a DC/DC converter I had on hand to replicate the circuit, works well with eneloops. Even though my converter datasheet says input minimum is 7V, with a load this small it actually runs down to 5V. I still need to put in a barrel plug to charge the battery.
Right now the build is stalled, namely because I want to pick up some lexan, cut it to fit the window opening, coat it with some Rustoleum frosted glass spray to diffuse it, then put an actual LED of substance in there. Anyone recommendations for a driver that operates at 350-500mA and can be configured to shutdown around 6.3V? [lead acid depletes at around 6V]
Exhibit 1: The iconic big orange lantern silly by today's standards. Output is a narrow point somewhere out in the boonies with zero spill and near zero practicality.
The difficulty in making a reversible retrofit is the opposing polarity of the PR lamp and that the battery is retained by the reflector. This one has no seals and no real window [plastic film], which made me wonder how it lasted through all those hurricane years.
A platform was built to mount the LEDs on, and consisted of three separate pieces of scrap aluminum.
a 2" section of C channel, a 3"x2"x1" aluminum enclosure plate, and a piece of fitting C bracket [this one happens to be steel, which I took advantage for rigidity]. Driver for reference only.
The C channel would serve as the stop for the battery [which will be replaced with a 6V lead Acid] as well as a space to fit a suitable driver.
I'm not hoping to turn it into an eyeball scorcher, but rather a functional splash resistant area light.
Thought to mention that a 8AA battery holder fits perfectly with just the right snugness. I can probably stack two or three 8-packs in there with eneloops.
Mounting the retainer to the body, looking good.
I dug up a 20LED assembly I tossed in the parts box originally mounted on one of these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_352725-47842-17783-003_0__?productId=3394398
Turned out to be a perfect fit. Since the original power adapter puts out 3.3V, I used a DC/DC converter I had on hand to replicate the circuit, works well with eneloops. Even though my converter datasheet says input minimum is 7V, with a load this small it actually runs down to 5V. I still need to put in a barrel plug to charge the battery.
Right now the build is stalled, namely because I want to pick up some lexan, cut it to fit the window opening, coat it with some Rustoleum frosted glass spray to diffuse it, then put an actual LED of substance in there. Anyone recommendations for a driver that operates at 350-500mA and can be configured to shutdown around 6.3V? [lead acid depletes at around 6V]