Small general use long run time.

Loggerhead

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 19, 2014
Messages
7
==================Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__X__This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :)

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
___x_Up to $50.
___x_Up to $100.
____Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
____Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

____I am not sure, please help me decide.
__x__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
____I want a self-contained headlamp.
____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
__x__TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
____SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
____MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
____I don't know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

_x___LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

_x___I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
__x__I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
__x__I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)
____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
____I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)
__x__I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
____I don't care


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
____I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
_X___I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
___x_I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

____SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

____All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
_x___Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
____Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
____Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
___x_5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
_x___90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
_x___Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
___x_I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
_x___I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ---...--- emergency pattern)
____I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
___x_Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.

15) Water resistance
____None needed
____IPX4 (Splash resistant)
_x___IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
____IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

16) Storage conditions
____In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
_x___Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
____Other_________________________________________ ____


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments

I have been reading through the forum for awhile now and became overwhelmed to the point that I needed to ask for help. I understand there are some advantages to 123a battery based lights. Run time is very important to me however I would like to use rechargeables and thats where I for really confused reading about compatibility issues, brands of rechargeable 123as ect. I would like to pick up a few lights to have in my house, car, and wifes van. These would be simple good lights with good run times (need for medium setting rather than just 2, moonlight for a week or 700 lumens for 30 min). I'd like them to be small enough to throw in a pocket for a walk, bright enough for family camping, and waterproof enough to use in rain and be dropped in a puddle. If going AA keeps things simpler I'll do that but if someone has a specific go here and buy this brand of rechargeable 123as and this charger would appreciate it. I realize I may be asking for 3 different lights and if that she case I appreciate any feedback. I checked under $50 so I could have one or two that may be grabbed by the kids and I wouldn't be too worried about it.
 

ChrisGarrett

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
5,726
Location
Miami, Florida
If you're willing to get into rechargeable NiMH batteries, like Sanyo/Panasonic Eneloops and if you're willing to get into playing with lithium-ion rechargeable cells, your options open up quite a bit.

For AA/AAA lights and even li-ion cells, you can get a multi-chemistry charger, like the Nitecore i4 v.2 charger, that will do a decent job of charging up the three main chemistries that we encounter: NiMH, lithium-cobalt and lithium-manganese.

The NC i4 v.2 can be bought for <$20 shipped and while not a fast charger, by my standards, it seems to do a 'safe' job for me after a solid month of using it on those three chemistries.

You can get a few 4 packs of AA/AAA Eneloops for those lights using them, for $40. Then you can buy some 16340/18650 cells for those lights you buy that take a CR123A sized cell, or even those that take 2xCR123A cells.

This now opens up a lot of room for flashlight considerations.

I'm 2.3 years into revamping my batteries/cells/chargers and buying lights and my bases are pretty well covered will all of that stuff.

Obviously, I've spent some coin on lights, batteries/cells and chargers, but I'm all set.

Get some AA, AAA, 2xAA lights for fiddling around and placing in easy to find areas, or your keychain and then look to some of the 18650/2xCR123A type lights for that 400-900LM range, for some horsepower.

This hobby is like crack and you're not going to buy just a single light, so feel free to experiment and see what you see.

For me, the key is in getting rechargeable stuff and a decent charger(s), as there is a saying coined by another member "guilt free lumens."

Some chargers to consider besides the NiteCore 'all-in-wonder' charger:

Maha C-9000 for NiMH AA/AAAs.

LaCrosse BC-700/1000 for NiMH AA/AAAs (the C-9000 is at the top.)

Xtar WP2 II, or WP2S for li-ions

Xtar VP1, or VP2 for li-ions.

Chris
 

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,873
I kind of collect lights with similar priorities: efficient, long runtime, bright, sub-lumen, <4" pocketable, rechargeable single cell, floody general purpose EDCs. First off, if you want to use rechargeables, I highly suggest a wide-voltage (0.9-4.2V) AA/14500 light - if you are going to use Li-ion rechargeables (CR123's only option), the 14500 cell has ~20% more capacity than the RCR123/16340 cell, you also can use safe, cheap NiMhs (Eneloops), AND you can always find common Alks in any gas station, cannibalize AA batts from another device, and even use AAAs and 9Vs in a real pinch. Some of these lights can also utilize the 3v CRAA lithium primary (same as a CR123) and all can use the common 1.5v L91 lithium primary (for extreme temp/long storage conditions). This broad battery versatility/availability constitutes unlimited runtime for me.

IMHO, the best lights that efficiently cover this full voltage and lumen range, and in price order are: the Olight S15, Fourseven QP(T)A, Zebralight SC52, Peak El Capitan, and the Lego'd QP(T)A-X. The Eagletac D25As partially support higher voltages, but all the lower modes shift up (~5x?). The Olight and ZL are electronic side switches though. I have (or had) all of them, each has its pluses and minuses, my personal favorite is the Lego'd QPA-X for its extreme versatility (it can do near anything the others can, but not vice versa), and best US-style warranty/CS/location.
 

weez82

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 29, 2010
Messages
464
Location
pacific northwest
I kind of collect lights with similar priorities: efficient, long runtime, bright, sub-lumen, <4" pocketable, rechargeable single cell, floody general purpose EDCs. First off, if you want to use rechargeables, I highly suggest a wide-voltage (0.9-4.2V) AA/14500 light - if you are going to use Li-ion rechargeables (CR123's only option), the 14500 cell has ~20% more capacity than the RCR123/16340 cell, you also can use safe, cheap NiMhs (Eneloops), AND you can always find common Alks in any gas station, cannibalize AA batts from another device, and even use AAAs and 9Vs in a real pinch. Some of these lights can also utilize the 3v CRAA lithium primary (same as a CR123) and all can use the common 1.5v L91 lithium primary (for extreme temp/long storage conditions). This broad battery versatility/availability constitutes unlimited runtime for me.

IMHO, the best lights that efficiently cover this full voltage and lumen range, and in price order are: the Olight S15, Fourseven QP(T)A, Zebralight SC52, Peak El Capitan, and the Lego'd QP(T)A-X. The Eagletac D25As partially support higher voltages, but all the lower modes shift up (~5x?). The Olight and ZL are electronic side switches though. I have (or had) all of them, each has its pluses and minuses, my personal favorite is the Lego'd QPA-X for its extreme versatility (it can do near anything the others can, but not vice versa), and best US-style warranty/CS/location.

+1 to everything he posted :)
 

Loggerhead

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 19, 2014
Messages
7
Thanks for the help with charger suggestions and flashlight suggestions. Is Lego'd an abbreviation? I can't seem to find the flashlight. The first time it's mentioned in the above post it is "Lego'd QP(T)A-X" and then very similar the "Lego'd QPA-X" with out the "(T)". Are these by foursevens?
 

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,873
Foursevens yes. Quark Pro (or Tactical) 2AA XML - QP2A-X/QT2A-X with a 1xAA body "Lego'd" on. Unfortunately, they do not sell the low voltage XML head in 1AA form, or as an accessory.
 

Javora

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 18, 2014
Messages
224
I'd suggest the Thrunite Archer 1A or Archer 2A. They run on 1 AA and 2AA battery respectively. I have the 2A and it works very well. Plus this light has the low modes I think you are looking for.
 

Loggerhead

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 19, 2014
Messages
7
Got it - thank you for the clarification. Seems like the foursevens QP2A-x, a single AA body, some AA eneloops, and the nitecore all in one charger and I'll be on my way. Found a Nitecore i4 Intellicharge Battery Charger + 4 Eagletac 3100/3400 mAh 18650 Battery Bundle for when I get that 2xcr123a all arounder. I appreciate everyone's input.
 

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,873
May as well get 14500 cells for the Quark (In 1xAA config) too.... she's really built for them and you'll get ~400 lms on max. for 3mins before it steps down to ~260lms. What I really like about Li-ions is that a quick voltage check is an accurate indicator of remaining capacity.... not so with NiMh since the discharge curve is so flat.

I just bought the high voltage version of this head for use with a 14500... ~800 lumen max :)... but it won't run 1.5v cells :(.
 
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