Help with batteries

Hello,

first sorry for my english I will try my best.

I want to build a dive light with a 100 watts led (ebay led), I look in the forum but i'm still not sure with batteries I should use...


Here the specs of the setup:

led


driver 1


driver 2



I want to use this batterie http://www.batteryspace.com/Customi...y-12.8V-13.2Ah-169Wh-14A-rate-for-Diving.aspx


but the spec say 12.8V-13.2Ah-169Wh-14A-rate so I think the driver will not survive the 14a rate?


I'm lost and If somebody can explain me or show me a batterie pack that I can use to have at least 35mn of full power, It will help me a lot.


Thank you!

The driver will only pull what it needs from the battery. The headlamps in your car (if they are old incan types) will draw about 8-10A from the battery. But the starter will draw over 100A. Most car batteries when new can put out over 500A.

The 14A rate spec on that battery should mean that you should get 169 Wh if you load it at 14A, and at lower current you should get slightly more Wh. But since the protection circuits cut out at 14A, it's possible that the 169 Wh and 14A aren't linked. Besides, energy capacity numbers are only an estimate. Your actual performance will depend on numerous factors including peak charge voltage, minimum discharge voltage, load current, temp, battery health, etc.

I think that battery is fine, and you should get over an hour at full brightness.

I wouldn't go for either one of the drivers you linked, I would go for one of the Drivers from George at Taskled (http://www.taskled.com/techhbflex.shtml)
And 12.8 Volts is a bit low if you need over 30 Volts on your led

None of George's drivers can handle more than 7A input current, which means they can't do 100W at 12.8V input.

Driver 1 says 3000 mA input current (this has to be wrong, but that's what it says). I wouldn't touch that with a 10-foot pole.

Driver 2 says 10A input current with natural cooling, so that should get you where you want to go.

On the other hand, you could re-configure the battery from 4S4P to 8S2P (electrical), and the HyperBoost would be a great driver. George's other boost drivers can't handle the max voltage of 8 LiFePO4 cells. By the way, the battery listing says it's in an 8S2P configuration, that must be the physical layout, because 8S2P electrical connection gives twice the voltage and half the amp-hour ratings they show (cool, because that's exactly what you want!).

At the low battery voltage (16V in the reconfigured pack), the HyperBoost would be pushing hard against it's max input current to get 100W out. You might want to consider dialing it back a bit.