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Thread: Looking for suggested/recommended mods for "hard use" SF flashlight users

  1. #1

    Default Looking for suggested/recommended mods for "hard use" SF flashlight users

    Hello all,

    I use the following Surefire lights Scoutlight (weapon), L4 Surefire (primary handheld fighting light) and an E1e (backup). I am looking to have some custom tailcaps made for the L4 and the E1e, as the current method for lanyards is not cutting it.

    But after looking around on here, it got me to thinking, "What else is a good idea or should I have done?" These are used EDC, both deployed and at home.

    Looking for suggestions/recommendations (to include upgrades) on improving the L4 & E1e lights for tactical use. If possible pictures would be great so I know what you are talking about!

    Thanks,

    Steeltrap

  2. #2
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
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    Default Re: Looking for suggested/recommended mods for "hard use" SF flashlight users

    Welcome to CPF Steeltrap!

    If you'll specify which Scout Light you run (M300/M600/etc.) it helps narrow down the mods. The lights you mention are great for low vis operations & are the first choice for many special units. Here are some boring mods that can be done with ScoutLights, E-series & L-series.


    • Boring for a rechargeable battery/batteries. These cells always provide the lowest cost per hour in runtime. They can be used with incan bulbs but the brightness may or may not be the same as with primary cells (CR123's). Using rechargeables with LED powered lights usually gives the same brightness & may provide significantly longer runtime. Chargers are available that will run on either 120 volts or 12 volts & there are many good ones to pick from - the Nitecore D4 being my current favorite.

    All the Scout Lights (& most other Weapon Lights) can be bored:

    Both the L4 & the E1e can be bored for 18mm cells:


    Prices are listed in the thread titled "Boring Service ..." but as an active duty soldier your pricing is 15% less.

    Other members are more familiar with upgrades in switching, LED heads, etc. Be sure to look at the products from Dan at Oveready.com as he lists quite a few parts for the small body lights & WeaponLights - one is a brass adapter that threads onto the front of the Scout Light & allows running any of the Moddoolar Triple LED Heads.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights* Please text msg, phone or email through contact page at www:Precision.Works

  3. #3

    Default Re: Looking for suggested/recommended mods for "hard use" SF flashlight users

    Precision Works,
    Thanks for the advice!

    I generally run my own M300 generally as an A, but when called for with a KM2 head. Weight considerations are a big factor. Mission profile and operational need, determine what I use each time.

    As for hand helds I am looking for practical, useful mods that will increase usefulness, reliability, functionality and survivability etc. Increasing H2O/Dust protection would be of interest to me.

    Boring is interesting. Based on what you said, I think I would consider it if I was turning one into a GP light. I run one of the Phantom Lights as my hand held GP light.

    Steel

  4. #4
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
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    Default Re: Looking for suggested/recommended mods for "hard use" SF flashlight users

    Steel,

    I hear what you're saying, mission always drives the gear & operational needs can change rapidly. It's sound planning to carry two hand held lights as one may fail when it's most needed.

    Boring is most beneficial IMO when running a LED head. A bored light can be beneficial driving an incan bulb but many Surefire incan heads are direct battery drive - light out starts bright & decreases as available battery energy depletes. LED Surefires (as well as the majority of other LED lights) insert a regulator between the battery & the LED. The regulator (or driver) can be designed to lower voltage that may start too high, raise voltage as the battery is drained & maintain a near linear output curve.

    Your M300A Mini Scout Light makes 100 or 200 lumens depending on age. Substituting the KM2 head provides a choice of 150 lumens of white light or 120 mW infrared illumination. It can be bored for an 18350 & that will give similar runtime combined with a huge cost savings because the battery is good for 500 charges.

    increase usefulness, reliability, functionality and survivability etc.
    Look for the following items at Oveready.com:

    Consider replacing the tailcap internal components with a McGizmo McClicky switch. Many users feel the McClicky is a superior design. Product Code: McClicky-Z57, $14

    A tailstanding shroud gives protection to the switch button (helps prevent ND's) & allows using the light in candle mode shining straight up. For the E1e look at Product Code: eShroud, $32. For the L4 it's Product Code: aShroud, $36.

    Increasing H2O/Dust protection would be of interest to me.
    Surefire sealing is excellent as long as the O-rings remain flexible, stay lubed & aren't cut. A supply of replacement O-rings is good insurance especially in a sandy-gritty environment. Everyone has their favorite lubricant but the two I hear good reports about are silicon spray (regular $5/spray can hardware store variety) & dry Teflon spray like DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant or BLUE WORKS 110248 Industrial Grade Dry Lube PTFE. Caution - mask off the gripping surfaces of the light as Teflon spray will make them slick as ice.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights* Please text msg, phone or email through contact page at www:Precision.Works

  5. #5

    Default Re: Looking for suggested/recommended mods for "hard use" SF flashlight users

    Scoutlight: is this a M300A or B? Or, is it a M600? If so, is it A, B, or C designation? You would always buy a Malkoff Devices E1 or E2 Scout replacement head, which pumps out 325 lumens in an excellent beam profile. Another option is to send your head(s) off to CPF member Tana who can do some amazing things with the KX4 or KX2C heads to increase output and throw while keeping them reliable and durable.

    As for the L4, does this have a serial number that begins with an A, B, or C? Same as above - Tana can do amazing things.

    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...E2DL-LX2-heads

    For your E1E, I would consider selling it (you can check pricing on eBay) and use those funds to buy a brand new EB1-C, EB1-T, or E1DL depending on your UI needs.

  6. #6
    *Flashaholic* precisionworks's Avatar
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    Default Re: Looking for suggested/recommended mods for "hard use" SF flashlight users

    Steel,

    SF lights are factory supplied with one O-ring at the tailcap seal ... but most bodies are grooved for two:



    Adding the second O-ring is quick & inexpensive if you go with Buna-N rings. Rings area available in dozens of materials & some have better physical properties. Google "Parker O-ring Handbook" for all the intel you'll ever want or need - 292 pages covers a lot of ground.

    A good source for O-rings is McMaster-Carr. Their online catalog is the best in the business & shows a dozen material choices, durometeres, ID/OD, etc. Fast shipping & low shipping cost.
    Last edited by precisionworks; 06-30-2014 at 09:24 AM.
    Surefire® boring including E-Series & Weapon Lights* Please text msg, phone or email through contact page at www:Precision.Works

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