1xRCR123?

I currently EDC an EagleTac D25C Clicky Ti. I love this light. My only complaint is that it doesn't take rechargeables.... well, I guess it does, but they advise not to run the light for more than 5 minutes

Is there something like this light that can take RCRs? Specifically, I like the size and the deep-carry pocket clip that screws on. Also the GITD tailcap switch is a nice bonus.

Thanks1

Not sure what you mean. I run RCRs in mine no problem.

From the manual:

Caution when using Li-ion in D25A & C
Using 3.7V li-ion direct drives the LED at maximum current level. Limit each usage to less than five minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged li-ion for the first couple times). Hold the light in your palm to help removing heat from the LED faster. If you find the flashlight too warm to hold, turn off the light to allow the light to cool down. Do not leave the light running unintended.

Normal for a small light with high output on Li-ions - small lights can't continuously heat sink high lumens. Some lights may support Li-ions better (eg, auto step-downs, retention of lower modes at spec), but anything around that size pushing over 400 lumens should not continuously run at max output.

- Use a lower mode for sustained running
- Use IFR RCR123s which are around 3.2v
- Get a bigger/heavier light that can continuously heat sink high output.

Well that's the thing the light goes into direct drive, so there are no lower modes...

Don't know your budget, but one of my favorite 1xRCR123 set ups is the Malkoff M361 N dropin, VME head and Vital Gear FB1 body. 3 modes, beautiful tint, wonderful full size beam, and about the length of an AAA clickie.

The Malkoff MDC li-ion model is also very nice. Deep carry clip and you can easily swap the tailcap with a GITD one.

These are more money, but are more light. More robust, better tint and beam. If you have even more budget, you can look at McGizmo Haiku with the 3S driver (XM-L, XP-G2 N, Nichia 119 or Nichia 119V).

I'm sure there are other options out there, but these are 2 of my favorites.

Another option for your EagleTac is LiFePO4 rechargeables. Nominal voltage is 3 V vs. 3.7 for ICRs. But you need a special charger and these are not protected.

I do have some LiFePO4 cells... But their capacity is garbage :/

I didn't say it was the best option.

awyeah said:

Well that's the thing the light goes into direct drive, so there are no lower modes...

Click to expand...

Sounds like an '12 D25C. I believe the '13s and '14s support 16340s "better" and retain more lower modes, although I understand they shift around a bit. Your QTA (or the Pro UIs) full support anything below 4.2V - you could get a 1xCR123 tube and DIY screw in clip (seen a few posts for this).... or just run a 14500 (has ~20-25% more capacity than 16340s) or 3V CRAA lithium primaries (same as CR123s) - XML versions will be a lot brigher. Olight S10, or infinitely variable magnetic ring lights from SWM, JB, NC, NE?

I use IMR16340 cells in mine ,no issues at all,yes you have to knock down when warm as with any higher output light. KeepPower 16340,efest 16340 have given me great results. I still have low modes,just fresh off the charge high and turbo are the same level,i still can use the lower mode.

You will find medium on an 16340 is adequate for most uses,then turbo for fun or shorter uses.

So no issue,just a warning to not run too long,dont leave on turbo on the side(just common sense stuff). With you holding the light you will feel it get warmer,once at a level where you can feel it getting past warm towards hot then ramp down.
:thumbsup:

If I'm planning to use my EDC, I carry a 1X18650. I don't expect long run times out of a 1xCR123 light, on high.

My D25C retains the modes and all the features quite well. If anything, the high and turbo modes become around the same.

I run unprotected RCR123s and they're great. Just bought some Keeppower protected ones and they don't fit too well. Well, they fit and it works, but it all feels so tight and the head doesn't turn smoothly anymore. So if your older D25C doesn't keep modes and you want one that does, buy one of the newer editions

Olight S10 range. 4 nice brightness modes. One of the brightest RCR123A/16340 lights you can get without paying silly money (400 lumens+). I've had one for 18 months now and it's been great, HOWEVER...

I have ordered a Lumintop ED11 560 lumens. I will report back how I get on with this....

How long do you use an EDC light for at a time? Wee 123 sized lights are not typically used for long stretches of time....?

How long do you need it to be able to run, and, what range did you want to be able to see what at with it?

Got my Lumintop ED11 560 lumens last night. Not had chance to properly get to know it yet, but I can tell you the brightness on full power from one RCR123A cell blows me away. Unlike the Eagletac, this light retains all modes when using this cell. However, the spec states that it has no memory and it always starts on Low. It seems to me it starts on a randomly-chosen mode...

I've had each generation of D25C clicky's since their inception up to the 2014 Nichia/Cree versions, and their regulation is not among the best. There are small 1 X 16340/14500 lights with better regulation and marginally better heat dissipation, (the ZL SC52 and JB RRT-01 are the best small lights I've had for regulation, but they too will get hot after 5-15min in higher modes) and, as others have pointed out, small lights generate a lot of heat quickly when fed high current and only so much can be done.

Even though ET published marketing verbage re: keeping all modes with Li-ions on newer released lights...this was simply wrong...all versions using 3.7v ICR/IMRs in my experience, keep the lowest two modes (by head twist)...medium becomes the same as high...and high and turbo are kept intact, regardless of the emitter. Even 3.2v LiFePO4's causes medium to become high. And although I've never actually measured outputs, it seems that with the D25C and Li-ions in general, the lower modes are slightly brighter as well indicating less than perfect regulation.

It is however very efficient with primaries with regulation being stable, and they seem to last forever in this light and mitigate much of the heat concern.