Variable output incandescent?

KQL

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Are there any incandescent lights with variable output? Since the old house incandescent bulbs can be controlled by a dimmer switch, I thought it should be possible, but haven't been able to find any in my searching. I remember seeing a modified Maglite in CPFM once, but can't recall any details. My ideal would be something like an M6, running on rechargeables and with variable output.

I keep going back and forth between my favorite tint/CRI of the incandescent and my favorite UI, the magnetic control ring.
 

recDNA

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I don't know if it is possible but it is a spectacular idea.
 

AnAppleSnail

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The Nite-Eyez IQ Switch for the Minimag Incandescent uses PWM control to run the Minimag AA at 3 intensity levels. The same could be done with variable-period PWM. Check out the PhD regulator to see if it can deliver what you want.
 

Conte

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. . . yes. But not ready made.

I'm guessing you aren't familiar with the AW incan driver and the JM-PHD-D1 ?

AW made controllers for the C and D mags, and some Surefire tail swtiches.
They would give you 3 modes, low, medium and full. The batteries would have to match the bulb.

Jimmy has a regulator module for the Mag D. It's DIY project.
You can put it in anything you can make it fit. I put one in a fulton anglehead for instance.
YOu can program it to have up to 4 modes, various warnings and behaviors, and with regulation so you can use more battery than bulb to get consistent output until exhausted

The Jimmy is still available, the AW units, not so much. Otherwise you could get the AW for surefire and dim an M6.
 

cbsmith111

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The only currently produced compete model I know of is the wicked lasers flash torch. It has a ridiculously high output and short runtime, but it does have three output levels. It doesn't specify about soft start or regulation. It is $200 for a base model or $250 with the higher cap. battery pack.
 

AvroArrow

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Yeah, AW made a 3-level Softstart tail switch mod for the SF M6 and maybe C-series as well, I'm not 100% on the C-series as I only bought the M6 version, in addition to the Mag C/D softstarts. Just a FYI about those though, my M6 softstart recently died and I checked with AW about getting it repaired. He wanted to help but the parts used are no longer available so my M6 is back to the original tailcap switch. But it was really cool to have a 3-level incan M6 (Lumens Factory HO-M6R+3xAW17670) while it lasted. Now I'm back to a single mode incan M6.
 

KQL

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Thanks for all the replies, the AW regulator sounds like an OK solution, I was hoping there was more of a rheostat-type mod available, wishful thinking it seems.
 

Illum

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incandescent lamps are designed to operate at a particular voltage, and even then exhibit mediocre efficiency. For high power lamps, the filament relies on the temperature attained [on top of xenon or halogen gas medium] to prolong the life of the filament. If the lamp runs too cold, tungsten will slowly migrate out and deposit on the envelope, eventually depleting the filament and burn out. One could create a current mirror like circuit and dim the lamp in that manner, but your lamps may burn out quicker than expected without significant improvement in your battery life. Fun concept though:tinfoil:

Only way it could work is
1: PWM
2: Different lamps for different outputs
3: Lamp runs at a single level, adjustable aperture on the output [kinda like a 35mm enlarger]
 

Conte

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incandescent lamps are designed to operate at a particular voltage, and even then exhibit mediocre efficiency. For high power lamps, the filament relies on the temperature attained [on top of xenon or halogen gas medium] to prolong the life of the filament. If the lamp runs too cold, tungsten will slowly migrate out and deposit on the envelope, eventually depleting the filament and burn out. One could create a current mirror like circuit and dim the lamp in that manner, but your lamps may burn out quicker than expected without significant improvement in your battery life. Fun concept though:tinfoil:

Only way it could work is
1: PWM
2: Different lamps for different outputs
3: Lamp runs at a single level, adjustable aperture on the output [kinda like a 35mm enlarger]

Hmm, I guess that's why the AW and Jimmy FET use PWM and work so well.
 

Illum

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:thinking:
Another view
w1rcip.jpg


Seems like the pill can be pulled and fitted into a third party tailcap

The fact that wally has it intrigues me, yet there has not been any sites that indicated reviews of it, then again, we could just ask Dennis to put up better pics, Dennis has bought one... but that was 13 years ago

I've had one on my SL-20x for a couple months, here are a few notes:

- Push and hold button to dim, it cycles from one end to the other, then back again and again until you release the button, at which point it holds the last setting.

- You can click the Main Power to reset to full power.

- Smart Feature: With the light off, holding down the button and then pressing the main power button starts it at the lowest setting. Somewhat unwieldy though...

- Double click to start or stop full power flashing. There are no other power flashing options.

- Tail button is "chiclet" style, unsure about durability. Although it is recessed so it shouldn't hit too many things that could hurt it.

- Also worried about extra circuit board when dropped. However, I have never had a problem with the main circuit board after MANY drops onto the concrete.

- Low power problem... There is a point when the battery is low, but not super low, where the light will only function intermittently with the digital tailcap. Hitting the tailcap makes it work, at least for a few minutes, but if you turn it off and on then you have to hit it again. Replacing with the OEM cap makes it work fine. Unfortunately, I don't know where this point is, maybe the last 10-20% of usable life. This may actually be a good thing for battery recharge life. That's why I always carry a Lithium SureFire backup.

Otherwise, this has worked fine so far. It is pretty cool and the flashing light helps get attention from traffic. Kids also like to play with it. But I still always keep the OEM cap nearby...
 
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yellow

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better read again what Ilum has already typed:
other than the voltage/current than the bulb was designed for ... is bad for lifetime and the output is way less/worse than the bit of energy "safed".

the "only" application a driver makes sense is overdriving the bulb, because that will fight initial rampup :poof: and thus will give more lifetime of the bulb
(still much less than with "original" values)
 

cbsmith111

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Most incandescent drivers don't just drop the voltage to dim the bulb. That would make the light horribly yellow. The few regulated, multi mode incandescents I know of use pwm to lower the output. It isn't as efficient as lower outputs on led, but it's a he'll of a lot better than trying to read a newspaper with a 2000 lumen beam. It does save some power as well.
 

Illum

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Come to think of it, there was one headlamp made way back in 2003 that had variable output incandescent.... The Supernova made by Black Diamond Equipment. Quickbeam ran a review of it here: http://flashlightreviews.com/reviews/blackdiamond_supernova.htm

If only SureFire was able to release their "Digital" Series of regulated incandescents. Blame LEDs.

It was discontinued sometime in 2006, presumably following the emergence of LuxV LEDs... the same LED that eliminated Surefire's plan of putting out more Digital Plus series of incandescent lights... where the famed A2 aviator would have had digitally regulated incandescent brothers C2D and M2D.
 
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