EagleTac G25C2 - weapon test video

Superfonarik.ru · Sep 3, 2014

Hello Everyone.

This January during SHOT Show we collaborated with EagleTac & Battlefield Vegas and shoot some video.
The intro is in Russian (well, just common info about what we'll do today), but everything else is pretty straightforward.
Enjoy

Roger Sully · Sep 3, 2014

Looked like a lot of fun even if there wasn't flashlight testing involved! So much for the "it won't handle the recoil" crowd!

Superfonarik.ru · Sep 3, 2014

Yeah, great fun. Lots of guns

In fact, the biggest fun was making all these happen within 2 days from idea to shooting. From ammo to Browning M2 mount and getting the really professional cameraman

And the most hardest thing was not to shoot him, as he was behind the camera at all the times.

handofcod · Sep 3, 2014

Roger Sully said:
Looked like a lot of fun even if there wasn't flashlight testing involved! So much for the "it won't handle the recoil" crowd!

Recoil is actually my chief concern for my next torch purchase. But there's a big difference between recoil from an AK and a big 300 win mag that I use for deer hunting (pest control not poaching). Do you think this (or any torch for that matter) can withstand the force of such recoil when mounted to a rifle stock?

Superfonarik.ru · Sep 4, 2014

handofcod said:
Recoil is actually my chief concern for my next torch purchase. But there's a big difference between recoil from an AK and a big 300 win mag that I use for deer hunting (pest control not poaching). Do you think this (or any torch for that matter) can withstand the force of such recoil when mounted to a rifle stock?

In fact, there is a lot of difference between all flashlight brands out there. Usually we take the lights apart and look at the inside. The most often "recoil" failure is caused by cold-soldering inductor coil to driver PCB. This needs really advanced reflow settings to make things solder well. As well as some glue is usually needed inside. For EagleTacs, we never had any single problem. And we tested them with .300 win mag a lot, no problems as well.

There is a simple home test to find whether your light would sustain a recoil. Just use a piece of hard wood, grip the flashlight as a hammer and slam the torch head with all your force into it. 50-60 times. If it still works, it would definitely work on any imageable gun.
If you don't care for appearence, there is also a better test. Just add a concrete floor and a bag of nails:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhbiI-RdGlU

handofcod · Sep 4, 2014

Superfonarik.ru said:
There is a simple home test to find whether your light would sustain a recoil. Just use a piece of hard wood, grip the flashlight as a hammer and slam the torch head with all your force into it. 50-60 times. If it still works, it would definitely work on any imageable gun.
If you don't care for appearence, there is also a better test. Just add a concrete floor and a bag of nails:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhbiI-RdGlU

LOL! Thanks for the feedback on the EagleTac. For some reason I think strapping my torch to my 300wsm would be more entertaining than slamming it into a hunk of wood over and over but it's good to know that it should survive both. Cheers!

Superfonarik.ru · Sep 4, 2014

In fact, the recoil impulse is not so high even for lightweight weapons and powerful load. So carefully designing, soldering and assembling a flashlight almost certainly would result in virtually indestructable-by-recoil device. However, there are always lots of exceptions. For example, having the spring on both ends of battery ensures that battery does not act like a hammer inside.

There are many "tactical" flashlights on market that do not utilize the front spring (and even some claim that it's a good), but it's a bad. The battery repeatedly knocks the head PCB with each round, and, while in most cases flashlight would be just OK, battery would not.
EagleTac designers seem to have think a lot about this issue. Not they only included a spring, but also made a sort of circular shelf in battery tube front, so all the battery kinetic energy does not go to "+" contact only, like in all other flashlights. It dissipates much more easy to this shelf. And still spring-loaded. Awesome. Both the head and the battery seem not to receive any damage.

rickypanecatyl · Sep 4, 2014

I haven't found the EagleTac G25C2 to be anywhere near that tough - 50 hits on the concrete. There is no way it's going to work after 1 hit!

It's a fragile light compared to surefire; tough compared to nitecore!

Superfonarik.ru · Sep 4, 2014

rickypanecatyl said:
I haven't found the EagleTac G25C2 to be anywhere near that tough - 50 hits on the concrete. There is no way it's going to work after 1 hit!
It's a fragile light compared to surefire; tough compared to nitecore!

Link to a died G25C2 after 1 hit on concrete?

SimulatedZero · Sep 4, 2014

rickypanecatyl said:
I haven't found the EagleTac G25C2 to be anywhere near that tough - 50 hits on the concrete. There is no way it's going to work after 1 hit!

It's a fragile light compared to surefire; tough compared to nitecore!

Link? Evidence? Anything other than sheer conjecture?

Overclocker · Sep 4, 2014

Superfonarik.ru said:
In fact, the recoil impulse is not so high even for lightweight weapons and powerful load. So carefully designing, soldering and assembling a flashlight almost certainly would result in virtually indestructable-by-recoil device. However, there are always lots of exceptions. For example, having the spring on both ends of battery ensures that battery does not act like a hammer inside.

There are many "tactical" flashlights on market that do not utilize the front spring (and even some claim that it's a good), but it's a bad. The battery repeatedly knocks the head PCB with each round, and, while in most cases flashlight would be just OK, battery would not.
EagleTac designers seem to have think a lot about this issue. Not they only included a spring, but also made a sort of circular shelf in battery tube front, so all the battery kinetic energy does not go to "+" contact only, like in all other flashlights. It dissipates much more easy to this shelf. And still spring-loaded. Awesome. Both the head and the battery seem not to receive any damage.

actually if you have the battery "floating" between springs thats when you have the hammering effect. the springs simply bottom out during hard impact. just look at the light gauge springs used on flashlights. their purpose is to maintain electrical contact during impact

but you're right about the "circular shelf". impact forces get directed towards it, and not on the sensitive driver electronics

Superfonarik.ru · Sep 4, 2014

Overclocker said:
actually if you have the battery "floating" between springs thats when you have the hammering effect. the springs simply bottom out during hard impact. just look at the light gauge springs used on flashlights. their purpose is to maintain electrical contact during impact

but you're right about the "circular shelf". impact forces get directed towards it, and not on the sensitive driver electronics

Well, in fact you are right, when talking about tiny fragile 0.5mm springs found in most flashlights. They do nothing in shock absorbing. Actually, nothing to do in conducting electricity as well.
What I'm talking about is much more thick and bulky springs usually found in tactical flashlights (Eagletac, for example). They do really well in both conduction and shock-absorbing.

Anyway, any, even very tiny, spring is better than bare brass flat contact in that it reduces peak impact forces, stretching bump over time.

SimulatedZero · Sep 4, 2014

Wait, has Eagletac has started including dampening springs in the g25c2?

Superfonarik.ru · Sep 5, 2014

They never stopped. Springs were there from the beginning. But, their springs are more advanced than usual:

SimulatedZero · Sep 5, 2014

Ah ok, I never noticed that the top contacts were spring loaded before. And here I've been thinking that my G25C2 was responsible for crushing the contact on my batteries.

Superfonarik.ru · Sep 5, 2014

SimulatedZero said:
Ah ok, I never noticed that the top contacts were spring loaded before. And here I've been thinking that my G25C2 was responsible for crushing the contact on my batteries.

In fact, G25C2 takes a great care about the battery. Even for early EagleTac 18650 cells (thanks it's fixed now), which had very,very fragile top "+" contact that you could literally bump down into a battery by a thumb, were totally safe and intact after some dozens of .12cal Magnum shotgun shots. That borders rule.

Mr. Tone · Sep 5, 2014

I have two neutral white G25C2 MK II flashlights. One is mounted on an AR and the other on a Mossberg 590, both with Elzetta mounts. Both lights have worked perfectly without a hiccup. The recoil does not bother them at all. The beam is perfect for them in my opinion, as there is good throw and spill but the hotspot is not so narrow as to need sighting in itself.

rickypanecatyl · Sep 5, 2014

Hmmm... what kind of evidence would you like?

It'd be tough to prove without sending the flashlight that one hit on the concrete killed my light.

The reverse wouldn't be so hard to prove - in another words it is my experience one drop on tile killed my light.
I don't know but would guess mine wasn't an extreme aberration and others would perform similarly. I've had 3 and all are dead now; some held up better - none would come anywhere close to be able to handle 100 hits as hard as I could on the concrete.

So to prove the reverse would be easier - send me a working light and then we could video how many hits to concrete it could take while still working!

Superfonarik.ru · Sep 8, 2014

rickypanecatyl said:
Hmmm... what kind of evidence would you like?

It'd be tough to prove without sending the flashlight that one hit on the concrete killed my light.

The reverse wouldn't be so hard to prove - in another words it is my experience one drop on tile killed my light.
I don't know but would guess mine wasn't an extreme aberration and others would perform similarly. I've had 3 and all are dead now; some held up better - none would come anywhere close to be able to handle 100 hits as hard as I could on the concrete.

So to prove the reverse would be easier - send me a working light and then we could video how many hits to concrete it could take while still working!

Well, it would be nice for a video of EagleTac killed by a concrete hit. With a simple teardown afterwards. Sold more than 2 thousands of G25C2 and personally use two of them for almost 2 years - never had any single problem. Many flashlights have fallen from cell phone base stations, many from 3-4story buildings, lots of them used on any imageable sort of weapons, and all of them work perfectly. Occasionally switches fail (as in every other flashlight) after year or two, but this is warranty-fixed in 15 seconds.

For a reverse, I think it's worth shooting a concrete-hit video. We will in near future, keep updated

rickypanecatyl · Sep 8, 2014

Superfonarik.ru said:
Occasionally switches fail (as in every other flashlight) after year or two, but this is warranty-fixed in 15 seconds.

I'd be impressed with 15 days - 15 seconds to fix the tail switch! Wow!!

EagleTac G25C2 - weapon test video

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