Does anyone have any suggestions on what to encapsulate these with? So far I'm looking at http://www.mgchemicals.com/products...ar-epoxy-encapsulating-potting-compound-8322/ These will be under water.
Speaking of wire, it's almost impossible to prevent water travelling down the inside of the wire. Many dive lights have had double floods where the head leaks and water travels through the cord to the battery pack, or vice versa. It's very important to keep the insulation intact and the ends dry.[/FONT][/COLOR]
Have you ever tried silicon sealant inside heat shrink to seal the cable ends?
Not sure if it would work, just an idea, you may have already tried it, not anywhere near my field of expertise.
Norm
Will water get in .... Probably but will depend on the encapsulant.
Silicone is best for not harming LEDs but does not stick well. Epoxies can result in stresses but bond well.
when I look at that picture, the thing that grabs my attention is that the LEDs and wires are all hand soldered together. Is this built in someone's basement?? ... by someone who never heard of a circuit board?
I don't suppose there is a photo showing where the wires exit the housing? It would be interesting to see how they get the wires out. A gland, perhaps? Or is it just a hole, and they pour the potting in through that hole?
Regarding the price of $100 per quart for the encapsulant... I'm not surprised. Potting is always expensive, at least when I've checked prices. Making a housing that is fully sealed can be pricey too, so it's not easy to decide which is easier and more cost effective.
edit: when I go to the LoomisLED web page for this light, I do get the feeling that these guys don't really know what they are doing.
http://loomisled.com/shop/2-24-led-flush-mount-boat-transom-lights-12-14-5-vdc-charging-battery/
The housing is made of PVC, so there's no obvious way to get the heat out. Their description of the heatsinking is:
"The leds are embedded in a crystal clear waterproof epoxy and heat sinked to a large block of aluminum surrounded by pvc with an acrylic window and military spec silver coated Teflon wire"
The large block of aluminum must be that gray slab that the LEDs are sitting on. Do the designers understand that if the aluminum doesn't have a way to get the heat out of the housing, then all that the aluminum is doing is ensuring that all of the LEDs will be at the same temperature as they overheat?
Just amazing... my impression is that they have no idea of what they are doing. How long have these designs been in production?
Just amazing... my impression is that they have no idea of what they are doing. How long have these designs been in production?
Not to gang up on the OP, but I agree with you Steve. I too noticed things such as: no ESD precautions, poor quality solder joints, difficult design, and poor implementation.
To put a positive spin back on this thread. All the issues can be corrected by listening to those the OP asked for help and maybe taking a mechanical design class and getting a soldering certification.
No one can do it all. That's why even small business hire professionals.
Not to gang up on the OP, but I agree with you Steve. I too noticed things such as: no ESD precautions, poor quality solder joints, difficult design, and poor implementation.
To put a positive spin back on this thread. All the issues can be corrected by listening to those the OP asked for help and maybe taking a mechanical design class and getting a soldering certification.
No one can do it all. That's why even small business hire professionals.
Oh give me a break.
The thermal design method is good. With water passing over the aluminum behind the LEDs, it's going to run cool.
.... One of my problems is getting the wire in the housing without leaking. The smallest IP fitting won't fit.