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Thread: The Official Zebralight Thread .

  1. #1411

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Fr View Post
    Exactly the reason why I programmed the low modes to H1/2 and vice versa. :-)

    Best, Michael
    Same here, I reverse the Low group and the high groups so it is press and hold for the H levels and click for the L levels. Plus the double click to M levels has a preflash of moonlight instead of high.

  2. #1412

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by Tixx View Post
    Same here, I reverse the Low group and the high groups so it is press and hold for the H levels and click for the L levels. Plus the double click to M levels has a preflash of moonlight instead of high.
    So are you reversing the H and L levels with the intention to change the single click shortcut, or with the intention to change the way the light ramps?

    If you could program the single click to go straight to Low, would you still reverse the H and L?

  3. #1413
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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Anyone received SC600FC/FD plus IV ?

  4. #1414
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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    A future UI improvement would be to have the option to turn off strobes completely. i.e., triple-click just acts like a double-click.

    Occasionally, with the existing UI, I accidentally trigger strobes if I turn on the light (single-click), then change from H1 to H2 (double-click). It gets interpreted as a triple-click, which I definitely don't want. Since I dislike strobes, it would be good to have the option to turn them off. The BLF Q8 has that feature.

    I'm not even sure what the purpose of strobes are on a small EDC light, like a Zebralight. On a tactical light, maybe.

  5. #1415

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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by evgeniy View Post
    Anyone received SC600FC/FD plus IV ?
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...-Thread/page38

    Post #1133

    I haven't seen any reports of Fc's yet though.

  6. #1416

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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by WalkIntoTheLight View Post
    A future UI improvement would be to have the option to turn off strobes completely. i.e., triple-click just acts like a double-click.

    Occasionally, with the existing UI, I accidentally trigger strobes if I turn on the light (single-click), then change from H1 to H2 (double-click). It gets interpreted as a triple-click, which I definitely don't want. Since I dislike strobes, it would be good to have the option to turn them off. The BLF Q8 has that feature.

    I'm not even sure what the purpose of strobes are on a small EDC light, like a Zebralight. On a tactical light, maybe.
    What I do is set the strobe mode to the low beacon. That way if you accidentally go to it you don't get strobed, you only get a very dim slow moonlight beacon.

    Some people use the strobes for biking and walking to alert vehicles. The beacons are very useful to backcountry campers, kayakers, fisherman, etc. to help you find your tent or campsite at night. The moonlight beacon is also useful to find your flashlight late at night when you wake up for a leak etc.
    Last edited by Tachead; 01-03-2018 at 12:08 PM.

  7. #1417

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by NPL View Post
    So are you reversing the H and L levels with the intention to change the single click shortcut, or with the intention to change the way the light ramps?

    If you could program the single click to go straight to Low, would you still reverse the H and L?
    Yes, I programmed the L levels to a click and the H levels to a click and hold by reversing them in the program. Easier to single click to L than risk not holding long enough and getting H instead.

  8. #1418

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    SC64w and SC600w IV HI delivery updated from Saturday to TODAY!!! Very nice surprise from USPS.

    p.s. I have 4 new NCR18650GA just sitting around. So I'm using two of those for these new lights to be sure of any battery crushing. The cells in my SC63w really crushed the tops, and possibly some with the SC600w III HI (but I can't remember if I swapped cells from another light). Running a charge-test cycle on them now. Come on mail man!
    Last edited by markr6; 01-04-2018 at 12:03 PM.
    GOOD TINT!

  9. #1419

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    In Stock

    SC600Fc Mk IV Plus 18650 XHP50 Floody 4000K High CRI Flashlight

  10. #1420

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Tested the SC600w IV HI (replacement) and SC64w last night. ABSOLUTELY THRILLED with this set!! They even included a free NCR18650GA.

    I ordered some spare silver clips (SC63 style) and planned on replacing the black, but I don't know. Even after all the trash I talked about the black, I'm OK with this. Maybe it was just my SC5w II that it didn't work well with. Seems fine on the SC64w. Not loose, not tight.

    No issues with the IV HI turning off within 1/2 second like my previous light. No issues with the SC64w at all.

    Nice dark anodizing. Quiet yet responsive switches - the best yet!!

    Tint? Damn, just perfect. PERFECT!! Both of them are a match and I detect the slightest tannish/pinkish color. Almost like a good 4500K Nichia. Absolute perfection. So glad I didn't go with the SC64c.

    And some pics...




    I tried to vary the distance and modes to match the intensity, but still blew out the SC600. You can still see the nice similar tints though.



    Thanks again Zebralight!!
    Last edited by markr6; 01-05-2018 at 07:50 AM.
    GOOD TINT!

  11. #1421
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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by markr6 View Post
    Tested the SC600w IV HI (replacement) and SC64w last night. ABSOLUTELY THRILLED with this set!!

    Tint? Damn, just perfect. PERFECT!! Both of them are a match and I detect the slightest tannish/pinkish color. Almost like a good 4500K Nichia. Absolute perfection.
    To the site mods: someone has hi-jacked Mark's account. Please reset it so the real Mark can start posting again.

  12. #1422

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Haha what? I always liked the Nichia 4500K.

    Or is it because I'm not complaining?
    GOOD TINT!

  13. #1423
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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    GOOD TINT!

    Nice one mark, sound similar to my sc63w in tint! Kind of like a little rosy in ways, very nice on the eye! I do find the HI emitters pretty consistent in "tint"(generally) compared to the domed.

  14. #1424

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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    My SC64w will be here early next week. Hopefully I get a nice tint too.

  15. #1425
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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by Tachead View Post
    My SC64w will be here early next week. Hopefully I get a nice tint too.
    I am sure you will, you would have to get pretty unlucky imo. I am yet to have a bad xhp35/xhp35 HI (and xpl HI for that matter)"tint" so to speak. I find 4500k pretty much perfect with a hint of warmth

  16. #1426

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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by ven View Post
    I am sure you will, you would have to get pretty unlucky imo. I am yet to have a bad xhp35/xhp35 HI (and xpl HI for that matter)"tint" so to speak. I find 4500k pretty much perfect with a hint of warmth
    I hope so. My worst tinted XHP35 HD was very purplish/magenta(far below the BBL). I don't mind a bit of roseyness/magenta but, this was extreme.

    I like 4500K for all around use as well but, prefer 4000K or less at night. Now I will have both with the 64c&w.

    I wish ZL would offer the SC64w with the XHP35 HI too. I would love a throwy SC64 with no tint shift.

  17. #1427
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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by markr6 View Post
    Haha what? I always liked the Nichia 4500K.

    Or is it because I'm not complaining?
    Yes, because you're finally happy about tint, so it can't be the real you!

    My SC600w MkIV HI is "out for delivery" now, so I'm looking forward to equally good tint as you. No

  18. #1428

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by WalkIntoTheLight View Post
    Yes, because you're finally happy about tint, so it can't be the real you!

    My SC600w MkIV HI is "out for delivery" now, so I'm looking forward to equally good tint as you. No
    Got it. Other than 2 or 3 really bad lights, the rest were just "ok" to good enough. But these are downright amazing. I didn't plan on upgrading my old H600w, but maybe.

    Running both on high, I don't notice the PID kicking in. On the SC63w is was very noticeable, with stepdowns at 1-second intervals after running it for about 15 seconds at room temp. It's either less noticeable/more gradual on the SC64w, or it runs cooler and efficient, or just not working. I think my eyes are just missing it. Great lights!
    Last edited by markr6; 01-05-2018 at 01:03 PM.
    GOOD TINT!

  19. #1429

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by markr6 View Post
    Got it. Other than 2 or 3 really bad lights, the rest were just "ok" to good enough. But these are downright amazing. I didn't plan on upgrading my old H600w, but maybe.

    Running both on high, I don't notice the PID kicking in. On the SC63w is was very noticeable, with stepdowns at 1-second intervals after running it for about 15 seconds at room temp. It's either less noticeable/more gradual on the SC64w, or it runs cooler and efficient, or just not working. I think my eyes are just missing it. Great lights!

    Okay here is a very unscientific test with my Etekcity lasergrip 630 infrared thermometer.

    At about 5 minutes into run time on my sc600 MK4 HI on its highest output 1400 lm the temperature came up to 134 degrees Fahrenheit and continued to stay at 134 degrees up to the 10-minute mark where I ended my test.

    At the 10-minute mark the spot just below the heat sink fins was 134 degrees, the center of the body was 128 degrees and the tail cap was 125 degrees.

    I do have my PID set at its highest level. 5 degrees higher than what it came out of the package set at.

    I didn't notice any drop in output in lumen intensity on my ceiling.

    My feeling is that these are running efficient enough that PID doesn't need to kick in on these units due to the efficiency of the LED or my PID just isn't working. Difficult to say. But, seeing that the temperature stayed at 134 degrees from the five minute to ten minute mark without any drop would bring me to that conclusion.
    "There ain't no bones in a hotdog" F. York.

  20. #1430
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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    I'm pretty sure all of the 18650-powered Mk4s drop in brightness due to heat/PID regulation. Do a ceiling bounce and use your smartphone as a lux meter.

    As mark6 said above: the new Mk4s step down completely unnoticeably .. I can't see any stepping on my SC600Fd Mk4 Plus either .. but the lux meter does.
    Last edited by Connor; 01-05-2018 at 02:25 PM.
    'I ought never to act except in such a way that I can also will that my maxim should become a universal law.'

  21. #1431

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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by noboneshotdog View Post
    Okay here is a very unscientific test with my Etekcity lasergrip 630 infrared thermometer.

    At about 5 minutes into run time on my sc600 MK4 HI on its highest output 1400 lm the temperature came up to 134 degrees Fahrenheit and continued to stay at 134 degrees up to the 10-minute mark where I ended my test.

    At the 10-minute mark the spot just below the heat sink fins was 134 degrees, the center of the body was 128 degrees and the tail cap was 125 degrees.

    I do have my PID set at its highest level. 5 degrees higher than what it came out of the package set at.

    I didn't notice any drop in output in lumen intensity on my ceiling.

    My feeling is that these are running efficient enough that PID doesn't need to kick in on these units due to the efficiency of the LED or my PID just isn't working. Difficult to say. But, seeing that the temperature stayed at 134 degrees from the five minute to ten minute mark without any drop would bring me to that conclusion.
    The thermal regulation is working perfectly. 134F is about the exact temp it should be holding it at with the PID turned up all the way. The new PID just has so many steps, and steps down so gradually, that your eyes just aren't seeing it(humans eyes are not good at detecting small changes in brightness). If you had a light meter you would see that it drops gradually as it heats up and then levels out at the output it needs to be at to maintain the set temperature. Zebralight has the most advanced thermal regulation in the industry. With the tests I have done, it makes most other company's look primitive by comparison.
    Last edited by Tachead; 01-05-2018 at 02:26 PM.

  22. #1432
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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Still on the fence trying to convince myself that the SC64 will be a justifiable upgrade from my SC63......

    For sure going to replace my SC600 mk3 HI with the mk4 equivalent, but as I tend to carry my SC63 more the SC64 will be my main focus....

    Any good input?

  23. #1433

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by Connor View Post
    I'm pretty sure all of the 18650-powered Mk4s drop in brightness due to heat/PID regulation. Do a ceiling bounce and use your smartphone as a lux meter.

    As mark6 said above: the new Mk4s step down completely unnoticeably .. I can't see any stepping on my SC600Fd Mk4 Plus either .. but the lux meter does.
    Good idea...it's working on my 64w! Just arbitrary numbers bounced under my desk:

    Start - 1806
    1:22 - 1443
    1:40 - 1152
    1:50 - 898

    In that 2 minutes, I swear nothing changed. But when I turned it off an back on, back up to 1806 and only then could I tell the difference since it was much brighter. Good stuff!!
    GOOD TINT!

  24. #1434

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by Tachead View Post
    Did you drop the light at all or expose it to any shock? If not, your cell may have just been a little longer then the tolerances allow(the tolerances are very tight unfortunately).

    These new MKIV's are going to be better then the MKIII's due to the force being dispersed between more pins and around the perimeter of the terminal but, if a hard enough shock or drop happens they will still dent cells. My 64c dented a cell the other day when I dropped it on a hard surface but, up until that point the cells were fine.

    These pogo pins just don't offer any give once fully compressed and the flat top cells positive terminals are pretty weak and prone to denting(unlike button tops which are much stronger). These lights will never protect batteries as well as a duel spring design will but, it is a trade off for a smaller light and easier tailcap installation and removal. It should also be noted that even many duel spring designs will dent flat top cells with enough shock. Malkoff's will dent flat top cells, for instance, if dropped hard enough.

    The only thing you can really do if you want added protection is use an O-ring to help cushion the positive terminal. And, of course, don't drop the light if you can help it(I can't apparently and now my nice new light has a ding in it along with my brand new VTC6 lol).
    I'm done with ZL until/unless this issue is completely eliminated

  25. #1435

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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by recDNA View Post
    I'm done with ZL until/unless this issue is completely eliminated
    It is not just ZL man. It is the unprotected flat tops that are the problem. Several other brands and designs of lights will dent them too including some firearm ready weapon lights. The tops on these cells are ridiculously soft(I know because I have bent them with a screw driver). If you want tougher cells you need to use button tops and ZL(other then the H600 series) won't take them. The only company that has designed a system to protect against this that I know of is Surefire. They use a plastic buffer to stop the spring from being completely compressed and thus protect the terminal. Here it is...



    Some other companies like Malkoff and Oveready use O-rings to help protect the cell terminals.

  26. #1436

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    But ZL requires them. Other companies offer choices. Whatever the reason I don't want any flashlight that does this. The shame is it was done to shave just a few mm of the length which is pretty meaningless. Not looking to piss anyone off. Just scared me. I mention it because I was just about to buy the new 600 cuz it is in stock. I had a battery in a different flashlight vent once. I don't need that excitement again ever.

  27. #1437

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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by recDNA View Post
    But ZL requires them. Other companies offer choices. Whatever the reason I don't want any flashlight that does this. The shame is it was done to shave just a few mm of the length which is pretty meaningless. Not looking to piss anyone off. Just scared me. I mention it because I was just about to buy the new 600 cuz it is in stock. I had a battery in a different flashlight vent once. I don't need that excitement again ever.
    I know man. If you remember, I was one of the biggest opponents against these new pogo pin designs. So much so that I didn't buy any of their new flashlights until a few weeks ago. But, now I realize it isn't a big deal. Honestly, these new ZL flashlights are the best EDC lights I have ever owned and any shortcomings they have are far outweighed by the many great pros. These really are awesome lights man and you would definitely be missing out if you didn't try one.

    Plus, ZL addressed the pogo pin issue and totally redesigned the layout and amount of them to make them be more friendly to cells...

    Old design...


    New design...


    This new design should give them much better protection and they should now only be damaged in hard head down drops. Unfortunately, until cell manufacturers start making stronger positive terminals(not likely to happen as they don't even condone using this way), these cells will never be fully immune to dents in any light though.
    Last edited by Tachead; 01-05-2018 at 05:54 PM.

  28. #1438

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Ya not for me but thanks for the explanation. I'm certain to drop it and I do not trust dented unprotected li ion cells. I'm frankly afraid of thermal runaway or gas venting. Go to silly lengths to avoid it. I'm not suggesting others should feel that way nor that my concern is reasonable.

  29. #1439

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    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Oh, I should add, I really don't think you need to worry about any cell venting due to this. People have dented them so bad(in other lights) there wasn't even a space left under the positive terminal(it was fully flat). These lights will not dent them anywhere near that bad. Plus, there is another metal plate under the metal terminal. Imo it would be near impossible to puncture those two metal plates with any flashlight terminal design. And, if you have a bad drop and don't feel good about the damage, you could always just retire the cell.

  30. #1440

    Default Re: The Official Zebralight Thread .

    Quote Originally Posted by Tachead View Post
    The thermal regulation is working perfectly. 134F is about the exact temp it should be holding it at with the PID turned up all the way. The new PID just has so many steps, and steps down so gradually, that your eyes just aren't seeing it(humans eyes are not good at detecting small changes in brightness). If you had a light meter you would see that it drops gradually as it heats up and then levels out at the output it needs to be at to maintain the set temperature. Zebralight has the most advanced thermal regulation in the industry. With the tests I have done, it makes most other company's look primitive by comparison.
    Yup they are spot on.

    They kept my light almost perfectly at 134 degrees for the duration of my heat test.

    And Markr6 was right. The PID does kick in but is barely noticeable. My lux app started at 250 lux and ended at 150 lux after 10 minutes on high of my SC600 MKIV HI.

    I couldnt visibly detect any decrease in lumens and the output was still very high at the end of the test.

    The PID is so sensitive that I saw a lux increase almost immediately after dissipating heat with my hand.

    Wow! I am even more impressed with this light after doing these tests.
    "There ain't no bones in a hotdog" F. York.

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