Replacing an mr11 HID

Fibre

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Feb 17, 2015
Messages
4
Ive got a diverite mr11 canister light that i want to covert to led.

i originally planned to use a sumpdonkey dropin but they are now discontinued.

I looked at the design and can replicate most of what they did, but am not certain about the best way of getting three leds in the correct layout to use a ledil cute ss lens.

Should i buy three seperate cree leds on stars and try and hack the stars so that they fit together or try and find a three led star. If the later, can someone suggest a source in europe?

Thanks
 

Deeperdiverdude

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Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
17
Hi,

I have done a similar job on a custom diver light, hope this picture helps:

IMAG0393%2B%28800x452%29.jpg


I used three individual cree xmls and they were held in place with thermal adhesive and the the lens unit.

T
 

Fibre

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Joined
Feb 17, 2015
Messages
4
That's basically what I am trying to achieve. I finally found a three xml board in Germany and connected it all together with a do driver and my original 12v sla. It produces a bucket load of list but the led pub also gets red hot as well.

Its very floody oozy as well so I'm currently looking for a single Cree and aspheric solution too.
 

Fibre

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Joined
Feb 17, 2015
Messages
4
Well I finally got a couple of heat sinks made and assembled my test rig. I had the Lexie lens, a three xml board from a place in Germany and a cheap 3a driver from China.

on day one I ran it in low power and up against a halcyon head it held its own.

day two I tried it in full power mode and it blew the halcyon away - for what I wanted anyway. However I soon discovered that the driver needed more heat sinking than I thought - the burn hole in the chip sort of gave me a clue.

so I'm now at the stage of looking for a more sensible driver solution. Dx seem to be light of 3a Buck drivers so what is the solution? Do I fork out for a more costly setup like the taskled or black power drivers or wait for dx to get some new 3a boards.

If if I go for cheap boards, what's the best solution for heatsinking. The ones I have have a coil directly above the voltage chip so I can't fix directly to a heatsink.
 
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