EDC pocket light

I'm looking for a small pocket light to always have with me (pants or shirt pocket by day and bedside by night). I'm thinking a 1xAA but would consider a 1xAAA. I will use Eneloops for now but may go to rechargeable lithium if supported. Must-haves are a sub-lumen mode, power-on in sub-lumen mode, and durable. I'd also prefer something with a high CRI emitter, single-digit lumen mode, twisty or silent operation. The brighter the max mode the better but that's just for fun, stainless steel or titanium are bonus.

For reference on size, my current "pocket" light has a 1-inch diameter bezel (and about 5 inches long) and I often take it out of my pocket because it's too obtrusive. Seems like most AA lights are around 0.7 inch, give or take. I'd really like a detachable headlamp style like ArmyTec or Zebralight, but the heads all seem to be at or near an inch in diameter so not sure if they'd be any better than what I have. Otherwise, the closest three I've found are:

L3 Illumination L11C Nichia -- no experience with them, but checks the most boxes and it's cheap. Durability?
EagleTac D25A Clicky Ti Nichia -- I have experience with and like EagTac, it's Titanium! but it's a fairly audible click-clicky
Peak El Capitan or Eiger -- no experience, apparently variable output but no output numbers are posted on the website, questions about durability of the mechanism that makes output variable, what emitter is used?

The D25AAA and the Fenix E05(SS)/E12 are so promising but no moonlight!?! How'd they screw that up? Same for the new Surefire Titan, but lack of moonlight there is expected, I guess. Foursevens Atoms are also possibilities, but for some reason they don't strike me as durable.

So, any comments on these lights or any I'm missing? Also, favorite hands-free adaptation for this type of light? Thanks!

EDCed a L10C with Nichia for several months. Dropped a few times on hard surfaces, no problems. Then "upgraded" to L11C when it came out. No problems so far with it as well. Would highly recommend the light. I have a natural L11C that is my new EDC, black L11C that is my nightstand light, L10C old EDC is now in my truck console, and another L10C that is just an extra. The Nichia tint and mode spacing are perfect for what I want/need.

Thanks for the excellent info. With your endorsement and that price, it's definitely on my shortlist. If I may ask...how loud is the clicky-click? I don't know how you're going to answer that but there you go. Also, does it have any way to attach a lanyard?

lumicycle said:

Thanks for the excellent info. With your endorsement and that price, it's definitely on my shortlist. If I may ask...how loud is the clicky-click? I don't know how you're going to answer that but there you go. Also, does it have any way to attach a lanyard?

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Clicking it on and off definitely makes an audible sound. I'm used to it now. Doing the half presses to change modes doesn't make any noise though. No lanyard attachment point.

I own all three, all good choices depending upon your ultimate priorities. I would add the Thrunite T10 as a possibility for a narrow headed AA. You seemed concerned with moonlight mode (I'm a total ML snob) - what do you intend to use it for, percentage of your runtime, what are you used to already, do you like dimmer fireflies or brighter moonlights? Sub lumen modes seems to be the most difficult for manufacturers to get right - each light has different issues with it, but perhaps you don't care (I do).

GatorMedic said:

Clicking it on and off definitely makes an audible sound. I'm used to it now. Doing the half presses to change modes doesn't make any noise though. No lanyard attachment point.

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Good info, thanks for that.

reppans said:

I own all three, all good choices depending upon your ultimate priorities. I would add the Thrunite T10 as a possibility for a narrow headed AA. You seemed concerned with moonlight mode (I'm a total ML snob) - what do you intend to use it for, percentage of your runtime, what are you used to already, do you like dimmer fireflies or brighter moonlights? Sub lumen modes seems to be the most difficult for manufacturers to get right - each light has different issues with it, but perhaps you don't care (I do).

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I did see the Thrunite T10 in another thread but haven't looked into it yet. Will check it out. Primary use for moonlight mode is nighttime navigation/looking for things when everyone is asleep and my eyes are dark-adapted (in house, or camping, etc.). Probably 30-50% of runtime. I don't think I *need* firefly, but as low as possible while still able to distinguish between socks or read a book or map might be nice (is it even possible to read without ruining dark-adapted vision? What output?). I have an old CMG Infinity that I currently use for this purpose, and it's low enough (I have no idea on output, maybe 2 or 3 lumens?). It has a green emitter, though, so it's near useless for anything else (hate reading with it). The green light might seem dimmer than it actually is? My current light for all other uses is EagleTac P20C2 with something like a 7 or 8 lumen minimum is far too bright. Higher output uses will be generally be dark places during daylight hours: garage, basement, crawlspace, closets, etc., maybe car repair if I can figure out a good headband solution.

Click volume of L11C vs. D25A? I'd like the EagleTac but don't think I can tolerate the click volume. I'm interested to learn more about the Peak, like output, operation, and durability. The Peak website is a bit short on details, but I admit I haven't spent any time on the forum for that yet. In any case, your experience as it's relevant would be much appreciated. Thanks!

My advice if you get the L11C is to definitely pick up the 4-mode version. Firefly mode is fantastic. In fact it's my most used mode. Perfect for night-adapted vision.

The sub-lumen modes on the original three are quite volatile: The L10/L11s seem to vary by sample (see Selfbuilts review) and voltage (my L10 runs is 0.02-0.09 lms on a 1.25-1.7V). The D25A varies by voltage (0.2-0.9 lms at those same voltages). Both do not use proper buck drivers so Li-ions will shift all the modes, by multiples. The Peak brightens as the QTC expands/settles.

These are small numbers, but keep in mind, in terms of our brightness perception, it's the ratio that counts and these movements are by multiples. Most folks probably don't use ML enough to care, but MLs make or break the light for me. My personal preference are the "brighter" moonlights in the 0.3-0.5 range (I have a lightbox setup for low lumen measurements).

Thrunite's sub-lumen has been very accurate and consistent in my experience, but they always seems to skip a good low in favor of a double digit "medium." A good low of 3-5 lms is my next favorite, most often used, mode.

All work well with aftermarket headbands, Malkoff is my favorite with a top-strap mount. Most of the time, though, I simply clip, and roll the light into my shirt collar under an ear. I also use a flat wallet diffuser for a tailstanding lantern.

Good luck.

I'll recommend the L11C Nichia as well.

-Cheap
-Small and pocket friendly
-No nonsense and easy to use UI (I like 3 mode version myself for even more simplicity)
-Nichia's 4500k 92 CRI tint is slightly rosy and romantic, with a lack of any green tinging that you see in most any other LED on the market. Perhaps the most pleasing tint of any LED.

The clicky on it is somewhat loud.

GatorMedic said:

...No lanyard attachment point.

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My L10c has one: http://flic.kr/p/v93g5e

ronniepudding said:

My L10c has one: http://flic.kr/p/v93g5e

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I didn't think that was enough room to put a lanyard through. But I could very well be wrong. I've never used a lanyard so I admittedly have no experience.

I don't use a lanyard either on a light this small, but I think that's the purpose of that hole anyway...

You folks are awesome! So much good info and suggestions...thanks so much. I don't think I'm too concerned with variation in brightness, as long as it stays low enough, and it seems like any of them would. Thrunite has a bunch of great looking options but most are clicky's, no High CRI, and no single digit low.

I'm tending to agree with reppans that a < 0.5 lm moonlight mode and 3-5 low mode are two most important to me in this light, one for not kicking Duplo blocks across the living room at 1 am, and one for reading, both without disturbing others or obliterating night vision. Both the L11C and D25A seem to have pretty good mode spacing and Nichia available, but both have the frustratingly ubiquitous clicky tail switch. Of the two, I think D25A gets my nod for supporting 14500 and more options, although L11C could win on price. But I'll keep searching for now.

My refined criteria are: single cell twisty (or at least quiet) with a moonlight and low mode (and preferably a medium and high mode, as well), and high CRI. Are there any relatively quiet side switch lights I should be looking at? Could I use L11C or D25A like a twisty by loosening the head to turn it off? Or, since these moonlight modes are so low...could I just leave it on in my pocket? Maybe turn it on at dark and just leave it on until morning? I could go a week+ like that before changing bat.

ronniepudding said:

I don't use a lanyard either on a light this small, but I think that's the purpose of that hole anyway...

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Could be for a split ring or clip for attaching lanyard or keyring. I will probably not be using a lanyard either, actually. I asked without thinking about it just because my CMG Infinity has a lanyard on it, but I don't really carry that light. For a light I will always carry I'm gonna go to a clip.

Is there any reason why you're looking to use a lithium ion instead of an alkaline or nimh? About the only reason to use a lithium ion over the latter two is for potential high output, but the lights you're looking at don't support high outputs.

Also, if primary usage for this light is within the lowest outputs (sub-lumen moonlights and a single digit lumen low), then high CRI shouldn't be too much of a factor. CRI differences don't show through to their fullest potentials unless there's a reasonable amount of illumination on an object. Having a good tint might be more of what you're after, if it helps broaden your range a little.

Regardless, the L3 illumination L10 Colors has the Nichia option available still, runs on an AA, and uses a twisty UI instead of clicky. It still as great mode-spacing as well. That might be what you're after.

Zebralights have relatively quiet side-switches, and their lights are very efficient with great mode-spacing. You won't get high-cri options out of their AA flashlights, but you get neutral-warm tinted Crees, which will more than suffice for lower output levels.

"Both the L11C and D25A seem to have pretty good mode spacing and Nichia available, but both have the frustratingly ubiquitous clicky tail switch." -- both are available in twisty versions, the L10 and D25A Mini, respectively. The latter does not have a moonlight mode or high CRI option, but the L10 is pretty much the same thing as the L10C & L11C, just without the clip and clicky switch. The L10 also has the advantage of being very affordable.

My L10C cannot be used as a twisty easily, and I'd guess that's the same on the L11C.

And +1 to everything TwistedRaven posted above. Check out the Zebralight SC52w for neutral white, or SC52d for high CRI.

twistedraven said:

Is there any reason why you're looking to use a lithium ion instead of an alkaline or nimh? About the only reason to use a lithium ion over the latter two is for potential high output, but the lights you're looking at don't support high outputs.

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Good point there. I assumed 14500 would yield longer run times, but maybe it depletes just as fast (or even faster)? Never looked in to that. In any case, I will mostly be using Eneloops with an odd alkaline here or there, but if it came down to two otherwise equal lights, I'd opt for the one that supports 14500. I don't plan to get any batteries in the short term, but nice option.

Also, if primary usage for this light is within the lowest outputs (sub-lumen moonlights and a single digit lumen low), then high CRI shouldn't be too much of a factor. CRI differences don't show through to their fullest potentials unless there's a reasonable amount of illumination on an object. Having a good tint might be more of what you're after, if it helps broaden your range a little.

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Another good point. I've never had a high CRI light and would like one. All of these lights come with higher output modes (depending on what you mean by "reasonable amount of illumination") and I will be using them, just not most of the time. But now that you mention tint I notice that the Nichia in the EagleTac is 5000K while the one used by L3 Illumination is 4500K. Of the emitters I have, I definitely prefer "neutral" tints to "cool" ones, but I don't have any "warm" ones, nor do I know the CCT of any of them for comparison. This might be something to consider.

Regardless, the L3 illumination L10 Colors has the Nichia option available still, runs on an AA, and uses a twisty UI instead of clicky. It still as great mode-spacing as well. That might be what you're after.

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Ah ha! I didn't notice that one. It might be just what I'm after.

Zebralights have relatively quiet side-switches, and their lights are very efficient with great mode-spacing. You won't get high-cri options out of their AA flashlights, but you get neutral-warm tinted Crees, which will more than suffice for lower output levels.

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I'd really like to have a Zebralight, but I already have lights with 1 inch heads and would like something smaller. The H52w is the smallest that I've seen, but still a bunch larger than all the other ones we're talking about.

Thanks for your input!

ronniepudding said:

"Both the L11C and D25A seem to have pretty good mode spacing and Nichia available, but both have the frustratingly ubiquitous clicky tail switch." -- both are available in twisty versions, the L10 and D25A Mini, respectively. The latter does not have a moonlight mode or high CRI option, but the L10 is pretty much the same thing as the L10C & L11C, just without the clip and clicky switch. The L10 also has the advantage of being very affordable.

My L10C cannot be used as a twisty easily, and I'd guess that's the same on the L11C.

And +1 to everything TwistedRaven posted above. Check out the Zebralight SC52w for neutral white, or SC52d for high CRI.

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Thanks for pointing out the L10. Probably the nearest match and the one I'll probably go for. Certainly can't argue with the price!

I will one day own a Zebralight...I was looking at the SC5w (insanely high output, but plenty of low options, too), but if I got a ZL it would probably be the H52w for the slightly smaller head and headlamp style. Maybe it's small enough, but I'm not convinced.

The Nichia used in the L3 Illumination lights, and the Nichia used in the Eagletac clickies is actually the same color temperature. It's the 219B D220 SW45 binning, which is spec'd anywhere from 4200-4700 kelvin CCT, which is averaged to 4500k. Eagletac falsely advertises the color temperature of the 219B used.

Nichia does have a 219B spec'd at 4700 to 5200k, but its CRI is 85.


If you like neutral to coolish, the Luxeon T used in a select few of the zebralights might be a great option. It's tinted to mimic mid-day direct sunlight. The Nichia SW45 is neutralish as well, but it's on the warmer side, while the Luxeon T could be considered on the cooler side. Depending on your mood and if other light is present in the room though, they each can look both warm and cool.

lumicycle said:

Thanks for pointing out the L10. Probably the nearest match and the one I'll probably go for. Certainly can't argue with the price!

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Someone else pointed it out first, so I can't take credit but in any case it's a very good light if you like twisty 1xAA. The only things i don't love about it are the lack of a bolt-on clip, and the lack of a spring in the body tube. If those things don't bug you, -- and taking into account the bargain price, -- it's a light I've never regretted buying. I've given a few away as gifts to family members as well, with positive results.

lumicycle said:

I will one day own a Zebralight...I was looking at the SC5w (insanely high output, but plenty of low options, too), but if I got a ZL it would probably be the H52w for the slightly smaller head and headlamp style. Maybe it's small enough, but I'm not convinced.

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I have the H52w, and it's a great headlamp with a wonderful tint, excellent mode spacing and UI, good regulation and efficiency, etc. -- but IMHO it's not very comfortable to carry & use as a flashlight. If you need it to use primarily as a headlamp with occasional use as a hand-held light, it's a good choice. But if you're primarily going to hold it in your hand, I'd get the SC52w. The ergonomics are just better. It's pretty much the same size as the H52w -- i.e., very small and carry-able. SC5 is a bit bigger than the SC52, but I don't own the former to say how noticeable the size/weight difference may be.

twistedraven said:

The Nichia used in the L3 Illumination lights, and the Nichia used in the Eagletac clickies is actually the same color temperature. Eagletac falsely advertises the color temperature of the 219B used.

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big jerks...good to know though, thanks.

If you like neutral to coolish, the Luxeon T used in a select few of the zebralights might be a great option. It's tinted to mimic mid-day direct sunlight. The Nichia SW45 is neutralish as well, but it's on the warmer side, while the Luxeon T could be considered on the cooler side. Depending on your mood and if other light is present in the room though, they each can look both warm and cool.

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Ok...so what you're saying is I should just buy them all so I can get a good idea of what I like? The nice part about these AA-sized lights is that they're small enough to keep in pockets and out of site of mi esposa! :twothumbs

ronniepudding said:

Someone else pointed it out first, so I can't take credit but in any case it's a very good light if you like twisty 1xAA. The only things i don't love about it are the lack of a bolt-on clip...

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Ah...so you weren't. I didn't notice it at the first mention, only the L11C, and I wasn't scrolling far enough down the page to see the other options. Just now finally noticed the L08 which is a good looking AAA option, too. These L3 Illumination people got a lot right! We'll see about that clip, though. Out of curiosity, is the only difference between L10 and L11 the...wait...what's the difference? Slightly different body and no twisty option on L11?

I have the H52w, and it's a great headlamp with a wonderful tint, excellent mode spacing and UI, good regulation and efficiency, etc. -- but IMHO it's not very comfortable to carry & use as a flashlight.

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So you wouldn't recommend the H52w because of ergonomics when used as a flashlight, but you do think it's otherwise small enough to carry in a shirt or pants pocket? If I knew for sure that a headlamp would be small enough to pocket carry I wouldn't hesitate, despite that it's less ideal for handheld use. I just find a headlamp to be so versatile, but the problem is finding one that isn't awkward to carry. I already have a dedicated headlamp that does the job (two, actually), so I don't want to get another one unless it can fill another role as well.

At any rate, thanks everyone for all the help and suggestions. I'll be getting the L3 Illumination L10 Nichia. At some point I may also get the 2014 D25A Ti Nichia because TI and great deals can be had, and a ZL H52w, and maybe a L08 Nichia, Atom A0 Ti Neutral or ThruNite Ti (or all three ) for smaller option, but I'm not aiming to be a collector so hopefully I can talk myself out of it...oh dear...what have I got myself into...