AW 750 mah drivin at 750 ma, thoughts

Hi guys, I am trying to decide if I want to make a change to my edc. What do you guys think about an AW 750 mah being drivin at 750. I am switching to a single speed driver. Right now I am on a XML, 3S at 660mA using RCR123a 750mah batteries. The switch would to XML-2, a single speed driver at 750ma using the same AW 750 mah batteries.

My goal is do ditch the modes,get more lumens without effecting my run time too badly.

I run AW 750 ICR blacks in my Shiningbeam I-Mini and SWM M11R. I run AW 550 IMR reds in my SWM V11R and EagleTac D25C Ti. clicky. They have worked well, although after ~3 years, I need to get some fresh ones.

I'm only buying AW 16340s going forward, as I think that Andrew does a great job of cutting out the crappy stuff and picking the better quality cells for his marquee.

http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/AW 16340 ICR123 750mAh (Black) UK.html

http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/AW IMR 16340 550mAh (Red) UK.html

If you have to have a protection circuit, the the blacks will do well at 750mA. You're probably better off with the IMRs, however, but they're naked.

Chris

Assuming it's a 14500 ICR, the general rule is 2C (capacity) or 1.5A. No problem at 0.75A, see HKJs review http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/AW 14500 750mA (Black) UK.html

reppans said:

Assuming it's a 14500 ICR, the general rule is 2C (capacity) or 1.5A. No problem at 0.75A, see HKJs review http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/AW 14500 750mA (Black) UK.html

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Its an RCR123

To simplify my post. How much run time would I lose going from running 660 ma to 750 ma? Using the same AW rcr123 750mah battery in both cases. Upgrading led though, but that would just give more lumens I believe and not effect run time.

SuPpAvIlLiN said:

Its an RCR123

To simplify my post. How much run time would I lose going from running 660 ma to 750 ma?

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Just call them 16340s. RCR123 is a bit of a loose term, as many 3.2v cells like to use RCR123. AW uses 16340.

At a 660mA draw, a 560mAh cell should yield about 51 minutes, all other things being equal.

At a 750mA draw, a 560mAh battery should last about 45 minutes, all other things being equal.

The difference is ~6 minutes.

Of course, you never want to discharge your cells down much below 3.4v-3.5v, if you can help it, so those runtimes are theoretical and cell killers.

Chris

Thank you ver much Chris, awesome answer. Do u know about the lumen difference? Whole other ball game but maybe u know? Started with 660 ma draw with an XML. Now will be a 750 draw to an XML 2. All cases with

SuPpAvIlLiN said:

Thank you ver much Chris, awesome answer. Do u know about the lumen difference? Whole other ball game but maybe u know? Started with 660 ma draw with an XML. Now will be a 750 draw to an XML 2. All cases with

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The XM-L and XM-L2 are something like 1040LM at 3A and XXX degrees and 1052LM, respectively, so at 750mA, you're not pushing them hard and I seriously doubt that you'd see a difference just based on those two dissimilar currents. I bet you see more of a difference in tint, than sheer differential output.

http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp

Chris

Damn....thank you. That's what I was afraid of. I thought with the extra push and upgraded XML2 I could get a noticeable amount of extra light.
And with memory, doing this change just to ditch the 3 speed is kinda dumb I guess.

Thanks for that link. The XML2 says a 38% gain in light just from going from XML to XML-2. What do u think of that? Wouldn't that be very noticeable? That's the easy white. The other one says 20%.

SuPpAvIlLiN said:

Thanks for that link. The XML2 says a 38% gain in light just from going from XML to XML-2. What do u think of that? Wouldn't that be very noticeable? That's the easy white. The other one says 20%.

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Well, it says 'up to 20% more output...' than the XM-L, but it clearly states that at 3A the difference is only 12LM, or just over 1%, so that 'up to 20%' figure has to come from some other parameter and I can't say what that is.

Chris

To find out the increase in lumen percentage in the particular XML-2 that I would be getting I found out the bin and the bin is U2-1C. The "Binning" on the site says nothing about U2-1C on any of their XML-2's??I'm so lost

ChrisGarrett said:

Well, it says 'up to 20% more output...' than the XM-L, but it clearly states that at 3A the difference is only 12LM, or just over 1%, so that 'up to 20%' figure has to come from some other parameter and I can't say what that is.

Chris

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Ok I got ya....Im gathering that my plans for change really are pointless. Thank you for the help.

SuPpAvIlLiN said:

To find out the increase in lumen percentage in the particular XML-2 that I would be getting and the bin is U2-1C. The "Binning" on the site says nothing about U2-1C on any of their XML-2's?? I'm so lost

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Don't sweat the little stuff Bud, it's just a flashlight, not the key to unlock the secrets of the Universe.

U2 is generally a high output bin code, although I've seen the XM-L2 with a U3 bin code used. 1C is the tint bin code and slightly below a cool white temperature, which are like 1A, 1B.






That's for the XM-L LED, but it gives you an idea what you're dealing with in tint shading.

Chris

ChrisGarrett said:

Well, it says 'up to 20% more output...' than the XM-L, but it clearly states that at 3A the difference is only 12LM, or just over 1%, so that 'up to 20%' figure has to come from some other parameter and I can't say what that is.

Chris

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The easy white xml2 says "enables a 38% gain in light output and efficacy as a drop-in upgrade to the first-generation XM-L " that makes it sound like just upgrading to the XML2 will give 38% more light output in general..not true??

ChrisGarrett said:

Don't sweat the little stuff Bud, it's just a flashlight, not the key to unlock the secrets of the Universe.

U2 is generally a high output bin code, although I've seen the XM-L2 with a U3 bin code used. 1C is the tint bin code and slightly below a cool white temperature, which are like 1A, 1B.

That's for the XM-L LED, but it gives you an idea what you're dealing with in tint shading.

Chris

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Ok thanks