Surefire G3 LED new - about USD55, get or not?

Referring to my post title I recently found a local outdoor gear store selling 2 units of Surefire G3, one is the LED version and the other is the Incan version. What caught my attention was the note above the items saying 50% off. So taking into account the conversion rates its about USD55 (MYR208) for the LED version and ~USD46 (MYR358) for the Incan version.

Seems pretty tempting to me, however, they only take CR123As and those cost about USD3.5 (MYR12) each here which is the biggest con for me.

Should i get it or not?, considering the P60 upgrades available it would make it pretty future proof at least and CR123A is somewhat similarly priced to the L91s over here.

Both the P90 bulb and the LED version run happily off of two AW 17500 cells. I say go for it.

Yes and Hell Yes!

You can also drop in a 3v Low Voltage unit and run them on 2aa.
These are one of my favorite lights for that capability.

More to consider?

scout24 said:

Both the P90 bulb and the LED version run happily off of two AW 17500 cells. I say go for it.

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If I were to get one, I'd get the LED version, can't afford to get both I'm afraid. For the batteries, I thought the rechargeable version of CR123 is 16340?

AVService said:

Yes and Hell Yes!

You can also drop in a 3v Low Voltage unit and run them on 2aa.
These are one of my favorite lights for that capability.

More to consider?

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The battery tube can fit 2xAA?, I thought it was meant for 2xCR123?, or 2x16340

And yes, I did look around for lower voltage drop ins for consideration.


Might get back to the shop and ask the guy to reserve for me....Since I'm pretty sure no local person would wanna buy it at that kinda price, even after 50% off.

One thing I want to ask though, something weird about the tailcap, is it originally a tailcap clicky?, I see a rubber boot but it's too stiff to press down and the rubber doesn't move at all, to turn on the light its basically tighten the tailcap till it turns on continuously or press release for momentary. For my confirmation as well, is the head supposed to unscrew with ease to access the lamp assembly?, or it shouldve been sealed shut from the manufacturer. Also, is there a suitable aftermarket clip for it?

I noticed there's the metal and Nitrolon version?, how to tell them apart?, is it mentioned on the packaging?

Sorry if the questions seem basic but these were on my mind when I was testing them out at the shop.


EDIT: Hot damn it runs on 3 cr123!, I didn't know that!, I thought it ran on 2XCR123....Okay this changes things then since I can use 2xAA, 2x17500 or 2x14500 in it...I assume I need some sort of spacer for the narrower 14500 or AA batteries?

Both versions of the G3 have what is known as the 'tactical' tailcap. Press for momentary, twist for full on. Surefire sells a click on click off tailcap for $44 USD, but it is metal and not a perfect match for the Nitrolon. The G3LED has an aluminum head to handle any head issues from the LED, and it is not removeable (at least not without a lot of effort, some hot water, and luck). I personally would go for the incandescent version, and look for some good drop-ins. The only drawback is that the Nitrolon head does not handle heat well, so any high power settings (over a couple hundred lumens) should only be used for minutes at a time. Lumens Factory makes several very nice incandescent drop ins for the G3, as well as a couple of LED ones. Any generic D26 drop in will work. The P90 and P91 are both D26 drop ins (D26 stands for Diameter 26mm, the diameter lamp assembly needed). I have a Lumens Factory triple mode LED in my G2, and use a 16650 Li-Ion to run it. Since the G3 is a little longer, two 17500 or 16500 would work fine. You could use three 17350 or 16350 cells, but you would have to make sure the led driver can handle the voltage. That also applies to using two 17500 cells.
As you can see, the incandescent version gives you a lot of options. The led version basically gives you none. The lamp assembly is not designed to be removeable, so what you buy is what you get - only.

Timothybil said:

Both versions of the G3 have what is known as the 'tactical' tailcap. Press for momentary, twist for full on. Surefire sells a click on click off tailcap for $44 USD, but it is metal and not a perfect match for the Nitrolon. The G3LED has an aluminum head to handle any head issues from the LED, and it is not removeable (at least not without a lot of effort, some hot water, and luck). I personally would go for the incandescent version, and look for some good drop-ins. The only drawback is that the Nitrolon head does not handle heat well, so any high power settings (over a couple hundred lumens) should only be used for minutes at a time. Lumens Factory makes several very nice incandescent drop ins for the G3, as well as a couple of LED ones. Any generic D26 drop in will work. The P90 and P91 are both D26 drop ins (D26 stands for Diameter 26mm, the diameter lamp assembly needed). I have a Lumens Factory triple mode LED in my G2, and use a 16650 Li-Ion to run it. Since the G3 is a little longer, two 17500 or 16500 would work fine. You could use three 17350 or 16350 cells, but you would have to make sure the led driver can handle the voltage. That also applies to using two 17500 cells.
As you can see, the incandescent version gives you a lot of options. The led version basically gives you none. The lamp assembly is not designed to be removeable, so what you buy is what you get - only.

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Thanks for the clarification regarding the tailcap and some other questions I had. Hmm seems that I might have to reconsider going for this since I really do not like how the original tailcap functions and the aftermarket tailcap is too expensive.

Regarding the head, when I was at the shop the G3LED version's head unscrewed with no effort at all and I took out the p60L module to take a look at it.

For the drop in, a lot of nice ones I found for 2xAA online but unfortunately they either don't ship to my location or the shipping is insanely expensive. Another problem, I can't find 17500 to be shipped to my location, or the shipping is too expensive so I can't even use the original modules with rechargeable batteries. Primary definitely no since each battery change is gonna cost me about USD11-13.

You must have one of the original G3LED heads. They had a separate P60 LED module, and were an upgrade from incandescent.

Ebay has several click on/off aftermarket tail caps that come close to matching the Nitrolon for around $10 USD. As far as cells, check Banggood and Gearbest. Both are in your neck of the woods and claim to ship everywhere. Just don't buy anything ending in ***fire, unless it is Surefilre.

I can't speak to shipping and your location but I do have a G3 Incandescent converted to LED and run only 2aa in it on a Nailbender LV drop-in.
This has become a favorite of mine quickly too.
Mine came with a Metal Head and seems fine for the output of the LED so far.

I can run spacers for the batteries but I also do not need too and usually just let them rattle around a little in there but they stop once crushed into action really.

I thought I would switch out the switch too but so far it is not that big a deal for me so I have just kept the factory switch too.

Timothybil said:

You must have one of the original G3LED heads. They had a separate P60 LED module, and were an upgrade from incandescent.

Ebay has several click on/off aftermarket tail caps that come close to matching the Nitrolon for around $10 USD. As far as cells, check Banggood and Gearbest. Both are in your neck of the woods and claim to ship everywhere. Just don't buy anything ending in ***fire, unless it is Surefilre.

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Yeah checked those places, banggood and gearbest only carry common sized li-ions. The only 17500 I found were at Fasttech but they were, you guessed it, Ultrafire batteries hahaha. I suppose I can go the 3xRCR123 (banggood has keeppower brands) and find a suitable 12V drop in, solarforce seems to sell it if i'm not mistaken. Now I just need to find out whether it's a metal head or the Nitrolon head.

AVService said:

I can't speak to shipping and your location but I do have a G3 Incandescent converted to LED and run only 2aa in it on a Nailbender LV drop-in.
This has become a favorite of mine quickly too.
Mine came with a Metal Head and seems fine for the output of the LED so far.

I can run spacers for the batteries but I also do not need too and usually just let them rattle around a little in there but they stop once crushed into action really.

I thought I would switch out the switch too but so far it is not that big a deal for me so I have just kept the factory switch too.

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I've done some thinking, since it has a momentary on function I should be able to get used to it if I use it regularly. Just need to remember for constant on is twist hahaha.

Another question, is the D26 and p60 drop ins interchangeable?, I seem to be reading info online saying they are interchangeable, but I'm not quite sure on that.

I guess depending on which parts are more easily available I can pick wither the LV drop in with AAs or 3xRCR16340 with a compatible drop in, which is available from solarforce.

D26 is the designation for any drop in with a diameter of 26mm, or essentially, one inch. Both the P60 and P90 Surefire drop ins are D26. P60, P61, P90, and P91 are model numbers for their specific D26 drop ins.

As far as the 12v drop in, you could also contact Mountain Electronics and see what they can do for you. They are very willing to build a custom drop in from the parts they sell at little or no charge, and their prices seem very reasonable. Can't hurt to ask.

Right now I would say grab the light while it is available, and worry about the drop ins after.

You can get the incandescent G3 version and add a SFP60L later. It will run fine on 2 17500 cells or 3 CR123. Gives you a nice 80 lumens and doesn't have any issues with heat in the Nitrolon bodies.

Timothybil said:

D26 is the designation for any drop in with a diameter of 26mm, or essentially, one inch. Both the P60 and P90 Surefire drop ins are D26. P60, P61, P90, and P91 are model numbers for their specific D26 drop ins.

As far as the 12v drop in, you could also contact Mountain Electronics and see what they can do for you. They are very willing to build a custom drop in from the parts they sell at little or no charge, and their prices seem very reasonable. Can't hurt to ask.

Right now I would say grab the light while it is available, and worry about the drop ins after.

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Okay that helped tremendously, I was only familiar with the term "P60" so seeing so seeing all those models was giving me a headache, turns out they are essentially the same.

Thanks, you just said out loud what I was thinking all this while actually ever since I saw the thing, buy now and worry about the drop-ins later, can make it an on-going thing. I know I can just order a Solarforce host with corresponding drop in at a lower overall cost that runs on 1x18650 but meh, wanted to own a SureFire and now one is reachable in front hehe.

Okay, I have the budget to only pick one, should I get the Incan Version or the Led version? If I have time in the weekend I'd like to go back there and confirm which has the metal head and I'll go with that for obvious reasons.

I'd actually grab the incan version first for a host. The LED version just to perhaps resell and make someone happy. I don't know of any benefits of the LED version being that the head is one piece and the tec is obviously ancient. ( I think ).

ForrestChump said:

I'd actually grab the incan version first for a host. The LED version just to perhaps resell and make someone happy. I don't know of any benefits of the LED version being that the head is one piece and the tec is obviously ancient. ( I think ).

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Funny thing is, I can unscrew the bezel of the LED version and the light engine is replaceable, same thing with the incan version. I have to go back and really check it out though but from what I can remember only difference was the light engine, didn't take note of a metal head or nitrolon head though.

m4a1usr said:

You can get the incandescent G3 version and add a SFP60L later. It will run fine on 2 17650 cells or 3 CR123. Gives you a nice 80 lumens and doesn't have any issues with heat in the Nitrolon bodies.

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If you were able to remove the LED assembly, then it will also be upgradable with other P60 drop-ins.

As has been stated, the one with the aluminum head will work with full powered drop-ins, so would be the more flexible choice.

xzel87 said:

Funny thing is, I can unscrew the bezel of the LED version and the light engine is replaceable, same thing with the incan version. I have to go back and really check it out though but from what I can remember only difference was the light engine, didn't take note of a metal head or nitrolon head though.

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Grab em both. If one doesn't work it's a rare yellow G3 from SF, should't have a problem selling it.

I would get the LED version. I think it has the same P60L drop in as the G2 LED which I have. If I remember correctly, that drop in works with 2AA with lower output.

xzel87 said:

Okay, I have the budget to only pick one, should I get the Incan Version or the Led version? If I have time in the weekend I'd like to go back there and confirm which has the metal head and I'll go with that for obvious reasons.

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If the metal LED version truly has a removable head and a separate LED drop in, I would get that. That way if you do get a higher power drop in later to replace the one that comes with the light, it will help with heat dissipation better. On the other hand, my personal preference was for an all Nitrolon body, so I got an incandescent one. I have a 400 lumen drop in in it and have not had any problems with heat. Of course I have not run on high for any length of time either. I had an expert tell me that about ten minutes or less with a high power drop in should not be a problem as long as I allowed time to cool down between uses.

Good luck with whichever one you choose, and don't be afraid to ask questions here. We live to give free advice to everyone. Just remember that advice is worth what you pay for it!

So my wife was in town doing some things and we decided to get lunch together, so I suggested the mall where the outdoor shop is... having my lunch now so will take lots of pics later of the 2 lights hahaha.

I would get the led version first. The nitrolon head (bezel) of the incan version doesn't afford you quite the versatility of the metal bezel of the led version. The G3 is a very versatile platform, and in cold weather, the nitrolon body does not transfer as much coldness to your hands.

There was a "later version" of the G3 that had a "sealed head" (which did not allow the end user to swap the light engine) and that is what some people have referred to here, but fortunately, that doesn't seem to be the version that you are looking at.