Looking For A Desk Lamp: LED, Fluorescent Or Incandescent?

JAS

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Normally I wouldn't post something like this here, but the fluorescent lamp I have used for years is dying. It is right above my computer monitor where I do my radio monitoring hobby. So, is LED, fluorescent or incandescent more likely to cause interference with radios? It seems like the ballast on my fluorescent always made a hum. Not a huge deal, but now that I am looking for a replacement, I would rather not have that. Are there any lamps out there these days that have cool accessories? For example, I have seen USB ports for charging devices. Are they a worthwhile addition? Do most have enough USB power at the port to charge a smartphone? I have even seen some that have built in speakers and FM broadcast radios!

Is having a dimmable lamp worthwhile? Are there any that have multiple colors these days? I can sort of see where having both a white and red or white and green LED desk lamp could be handy.
 
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CoveAxe

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So, is LED, fluorescent or incandescent more likely to cause interference with radios?

I would say incandescent would have the lowest radio emissions, with fluorescent or LED next depending on the driver. But really, any of them should be fine as long as the radio isn't directly next to them. I'd pick LED over the others just because it's more efficient and the quality of light will be much better.

Do most have enough USB power at the port to charge a smartphone?

Who would put a USB port on a lamp and not have it charge a smartphone?

Dimmable is up to you. I've never seen or heard of any desk lamp that can change light color. That would be an expensive option that most people wouldn't care about. If you want that I would recommend getting a normal incandescent socket lamp and putting a color changing bulb in it.
 

Steve K

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have you considered a LED conversion of the desk lamp that you have? This is a personal preference, and does require an interest in tinkering. LEDs could be driven with a Meanwell or other AC powered drivers. Some heatsinking would need to be provided, which can be a challenge to add to an existing lamp.
 

CoveAxe

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Some heatsinking would need to be provided, which can be a challenge to add to an existing lamp.

Not necessarily. There is plenty of strip lighting that wouldn't need anything, or could just use the lamp itself as a heatsink.
 

Anders Hoveland

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Looking For A Desk Lamp: LED, Fluorescent Or Incandescent?
Each tends to have its subtle advantages and disadvantages in terms of light distribution, light quality, color rendering, cost, lifespan, and efficiency.

It really depends exactly what you are looking for.
 

PointyOintment

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It is right above my computer monitor where I do my radio monitoring hobby. So, is LED, fluorescent or incandescent more likely to cause interference with radios?

Fluorescent, AFAIK and with the possible exception of cold-cathode, must be driven with AC. So that's a noise source no matter what ballast you use, though if you use an old-fashioned magnetic ballast, it's going to be limited to 60 & 120 Hz (or 50 & 100 Hz) (plus harmonics), I think, though the arc probably produces white noise regardless of how it's driven (pulsed white noise if AC, continuous white noise if DC). If you choose LED, you could use a linear driver instead of a switching one, and trade some efficiency for pretty much absolute radio silence. Incandescent driven directly by mains should be limited to 60 & 120 Hz, which you'd get from power lines anyway.

For example, I have seen USB ports for charging devices. Are they a worthwhile addition? Do most have enough USB power at the port to charge a smartphone?

If it's not powerful enough (unlikely, especially if you don't need your phone charged from empty to full in an hour), you could just stick your own charger in there. That might even improve safety; I wouldn't be surprised if the lamps used cheap chargers that are known to start fires.

Is having a dimmable lamp worthwhile? Are there any that have multiple colors these days? I can sort of see where having both a white and red or white and green LED desk lamp could be handy.

Up to you. I've considered building RGB desk lamps for better visibility of some things (markings on chips, maybe). And dimmable would be good for night use, along with at least color temperature control so you can choose whether or not it lets your brain release melatonin.
 

Bullzeyebill

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Lightide, I removed your advertising post. If you want to advertise, read the advertising policies, then contact the owner, Greta. for approval.

Bill
 

jeffsf

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I'm trying out the SORAA MR16-GU10 "Vivid" bulbs in a cheap Ikea desk lamp right now. They claim a CRI of 95 and, even more interestingly, a R9 of over 90 as well. They aren't cheap, around $30-35 delivered, but one of the few "not too bad" LED bulbs I've tried. Actually, it I like it as much as an incandescent bulb, with the advantage of not burning my hand if I touch the shade.

The 2700°K tint is a little too warm when combined with halogen task lighting, but matches well with the incandescent R30 can lighting.

I'm very happy with the product, but would go for a higher color temperature (available in 2700°K, 3000°K, 4000°K, and 5000°K), based on my long history with halogen task lighting. It may take some looking or waiting to find the color temperature that you desire.
 
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Anders Hoveland

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I'm trying out the SORAA MR16-GU10 "Vivid" bulbs in a cheap Ikea desk lamp right now. They claim a CRI of 95 and, even more interestingly, a R9 of over 90 as well
Getting off-topic, but these Soraa "Vivid" bulbs use violet-emitter LEDs, yes?

If so, I would imagine that they would have somewhat different color rendering properties than regular (blue-emitter) 95 CRI LEDs.
Using a violet wavelength diode lowers the efficiency, so I believe to try to compensate for this Soraa is using a phosphor formulation that does not put out as much deep red wavelengths.
(i.e. they may both have the same overall CRI rating, but Soraa's Vivid bulbs would have better royal blue/cyan color rendering, whereas something like the Osram Sylvania Ultra HD Professional Series would have better deep red rendering)


I'm very happy with the product, but would go for a higher color temperature (available in 2700°K, 3000°K, 4000°K, and 5000°K), based on my long history with halogen task lighting. It may take some looking or waiting to find the color temperature that you desire.
The incandescent bulbs that most people became accustomed to were actually closer to the 2800-2900K range.
2700K was more the color of the very low wattage bulbs (<40W). 2700K is a little more dull and orange than most people are used to or want. Going from 2700K to 2850K actually makes a fairly big difference.

In the world of LED, 2700K has just become the standard reference point for what the color of "incandescent light" supposedly is.
 
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cland72

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I would opt for an LED bulb first. If that causes interference, then I'd say go incan.
 

Anders Hoveland

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It is a bit complicated. I generally think incandescent has the best quality of light for reading or fine precision working with parts. However, in some situations incandescent can put out more heat than is desirable, and the bulbs also do not last as long, especially if the lamps are always left on all the time, or are repeatedly turned on and off throughout the day. If you want high color temperature (more pure white/bluish color of light) then incandescent is not really an option.

Some people go with halogen lamp fixtures, because halogen generally has a slightly higher color temperature than normal incandescent and the bulbs last longer.

Fluorescent lamp fixtures can put off very diffuse light, which can be an advantage in some situations. There are special fluorescent tubes designed for artist use that bring out the colors properly, but these tubes typically have shorter lifespans, does not last much longer than incandescent.
 
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SemiMan

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It is a bit complicated. I generally think incandescent has the best quality of light for reading or fine precision working with parts. However, in some situations incandescent can put out more heat than is desirable, and the bulbs also do not last as long, especially if the lamps are always left on all the time, or are repeatedly turned on and off throughout the day. If you want high color temperature (more pure white/bluish color of light) then incandescent is not really an option.

Some people go with halogen lamp fixtures, because halogen generally has a slightly higher color temperature than normal incandescent and the bulbs last longer.

Fluorescent lamp fixtures can put off very diffuse light, which can be an advantage in some situations. There are special fluorescent tubes designed for artist use that bring out the colors properly, but these tubes typically have shorter lifespans, does not last much longer than incandescent.

Incan are absolutely NOT the best for fine precision working with parts. It is about the worst. You want lots of blue content so that your pupils close and you have good depth of field. Almost as important is glare free.

Back to the original poster ......

If you want LED, and you want low electrical noise, then AC LED circuit like the Seoul Acriche are going to be the best .... but they have lots of 100/120Hz flicker which I personally hate. Incan will always be low noise. As stated, easy to do a simple linear supply for an LED.
 

PointyOintment

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Don't forget, fluorescent lighting is shadowless.

What? Do you just mean that the emitters are usually long, so they provide light from a large range of angles onto the subject? You could do the same with any kind of emitter, or use a CFL and get shadows.
 
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