Bulb replacement 9N

I just picked up a 9N in pretty near perfect shape. Battery even took a charge. Just recieved a new battery and now, would like to replace the burnt out low blub. Does the bezel ring unscrew from the aluminum piece for easy replacement? It won't by hand and I don't want to damage anything,

Thanks in advance.........Jack

Hey Jack haven't spoke to you in ages. The 9N is a sweet light. Did you get a cross hairs or an exploding star? Either way its a collector. The 9N uses the same lamp assy as does the 9AN. The N90 lamp is readily available but you can do the LED mod for the low stage to make it Waaaaayyy,............better than the stock incandescent dual filament lamp. I think there is a thread about it somewhere here on CPF. I'm pretty sure that's where I got the info from. It's been awhile since I played with my 9N lights.

As far as opening the head up the bezel unscrews off the aluminum reflector/head assy but you don't need to do that if your just changing out the lamp assy. You just need to take out the nylon screw and pull it out of the head. Make sure your secondary lamp is actually burnt out before you go buying another N90. Sometimes the secondary lamp is fine but the metal tab is bent out of shape and doesn't make contact. Hope that makes sense? I can post a photo if needed.

It's odd this was just posted since I am in the process of replacing the lens in my 9N lights. It's a bit tedious of a job but it can be done. I'm also doing my E1/E2 tear drop bezels as well. Flashlight Lens has the right acrylic lens but you will need to make the proper tooling to do the job right. Gawd I love projects!!!!

Hey...........How are you........thanks for the response. It has the cross hairs. I see no nylon screw????

Took out the metal screw........(plastic insert shielding the screw, they may have simplified things by changing to a non conductive screw)......the whole assy pulls out....thanks...... quite simple.

Jack

2 "musts":


old lamp assembly:
carefully cut away the en "small" bulb + ~3-5 mm of the black part but leave as much of the wires intact as possible.
Put a white 5 mm led into place and solder the wires on, glue the led in with epoxy and thus have the better 2ndary bulb than the incan
(the "small" incan bulb eats 0.8 Amperes! And is totally useless in that position inside the reflector. And is perfectly replaced by the 5 mm led ... try to get a "sunlight" tint)


new lamp assembly:
get a small resistor - like 1, 5, 10, ... ohms - cut the visible wire and solder the resistor in between.
That perfectly fights the cold-strike initial that usually happens to the 2ndary bulb quite quickly

example:




PS: get the nylon screw or be very careful to always put in the shielding insert when using the metal screw

100% what yellow said. Some good advice there. Here's a pic of the business end should you decide on doing the LED mod. Make sure you have the OAL correct before potting the LED since it does effect the beam properties.

very good pic with the led,
because they usually feature a "lip" at the bottom that has to be sanded for it to fit into the bub hole,
here nicely removed ...

PS: I would even have the led sit way "down", nearer to the lamp assembly.
It does not have to extend into the reflector to send its beam but would block some light from the main beam when "in the way"

Thank you guys for all the great info. Probably going to just replace the bulb. Not going to use the light. Is a little above my pay scale to do intricate work