I think you may just need to cycle twice more, past one more stage ( "save preset" ) , to get to "end" ....
After restoring defaults, when I save and exit, it goes into a single mode, on / off, and I can't cycle through the levels. After it sits for some time, it will go back to a 4 level operation.
No matter how many times I turnout off and on, it stays at one level.
I can go through the levels, make changes without any issues, it just seems to lock up for me when I exit.
Last edited by ironhorse; 02-15-2016 at 04:33 AM.
I got it figured out. I wasn't clicking hard enough or it was too fast to register to exit programming.
According to this:
LiIon Battery Charge Status
4.2V – 100%
4.1V – 87%
4.0V – 75%
3.9V – 55%
3.8V – 30%
3.5V – 0%
The first step down for setting 1 and 2 would be after 0% capacity.
I'm thinking setting one should be 4.0 and 3.5 and setting 2 should be 4.3 and 3.8 volts.
Last edited by ironhorse; 02-21-2016 at 03:01 PM.
The numbers for the voltage foldback of the driver are indeed correct as listed in the table. At the same time the charge status values in percent that you posted are not wrong.
Why the discrepancy?
The voltages the drivers are using are lower based on the fact that the cells are under load and thus the actual cell voltage at a certain charge level is lower than it would be when the cell is rested. That means, if the driver does the first step of voltage reduction at 3.0 V, the cell voltage will recover once the load has been reduced.
I have arrived at those numbers from various measurements on actual cells and found those to give a good balance of remaining runtime and enough usable cell capacity until the first step down.
I hope this answers your question, please just ask if you have more questions.
By the way i am glad you figured out your programming problem before.
Thank you. I had not considered the effects of the load.
You are welcome!
The relationship between battery voltage, discharge current and resistances in the system are quite complex and the preset values are a result of continuous testing and optimization. However this is not to say that they are perfect, i am always open for any suggestions for further improvement.
has anyone tried closing the jumper with just a pencil yet?
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...-new-territory EPIC EPICNESS!
I tried. Didn't work for me.
Anyone recorded any videos of programming the driver......
Was reading the info waiting for mine to arrive but nothing like seeing someone do it on a video.
What are the color Temps. of all the three LEDs?
Last edited by RedLED; 03-18-2016 at 04:18 PM.
Regarding closing the jumper with a pencil... I have done it this way on all my Hive light engines. The key is to build a thick layer of graphite in the gap between the golden pads by going over the thin gap several times until it is completely full of material.
I have never gotten around doing a video on the HiveLD programming unfortunately. So i would be very glad to hear if anybody had done so.
My new converter just arrived...... wow.... it is way easier to flip between the levels..... something that I always found difficult with the old converter (depending on how charged the battery was.)
I have not tried to reprogram it yet as I am sure that I will need to devote a little time to this!
I think that I may be using this haiku a lot int he current weeks
OK after a few days of playing with the new driver I must say that I am impressed.
It is not the easiest thing to program but once you know that you need to toggle on / off from the On state to get into the set up mode then that makes life a little easier.
Have managed to change to 5 levels, changed the max mah up to 1200 , calibrated the light etc.
And as before I think that changing between levels is easier.
I am really impressed with it.
Thanks for making a new driver that allows a little bit of interaction...... that is what I have missed with my McGizmo lights up until now..... have always liked playing with the settings on my LF2XT, RA Clicky and my Spys...... now I get to do it with one of my Haikus....
Is it possible to temporarily bridge the jumper with a small piece of copper tape?
Pencil lead is supposed to work.
A pencil will usually work, you have to make sure that you get a solid amount of graphite pressed into the small gap between the two pads. The adhesive on the copper tape might not be conductive enough to get a sufficient electrical connection.
Try solder, if I can solder you can too!
Thanks guys. Still undecided, but was curious about the possibilities. I know Don said he'd put the solder if asked, but I think I'd like something less permanent.
It would be pretty hard to inadvertently fall into programming mode
The pencil worked great! I've been playing with the settings a bit and it's not too hard to grasp as long as I have the menu in front of me. I lowered the first three brightness settings and set the mode switching to 'fastest'. While messing with the mode timing I did manage to accidentally activate the programming, so I took an eraser and opened the jumper. It's a good temporary solution.
Can someone please clarify this for me.... the Hive Converter in my Haiku max current is 1200 mA but in the Aquaram/Aquamule the converter with a 18650 cell goes up to 2200mA?
Is this correct?
Yes that is correct ...
The driver in the Haiku lights is a different one than the one used in the AquaRam or AquaMule, hence the different maximum current they can deliver. They are all going by the name of HiveLD (or short Hive), but are different variants.
And good to hear positive feedback on the pencil method, it can be a bit tricky but it should work.
My pencil did not work... So, I have tried a small piece of aluminum foil and Scotch tape. It works very well.
Has anyone done a YouTube video on how to program a rush converter?
Finally found a permanent spot for my Hive after moving around a few hosts and after a LED swap. It's settled in a 2AA Haiku with a Nichia 219C.
I'm still only driving it on max at about 700mA but the greater efficiency of the 219C over its original 119V (my favourite) puts out plenty of light for my use.
Rush, have you considered giving the HIVE an automatic turn-off to guarantee no dead battery for those of us who consistently kill the battery on our non-HDS lights? I want one of the HIVE engines for my Haiku so badly but the only problem I really have with it is the battery constantly being dead because I've accidentally clicked it on and not noticed.
Last edited by kaichu dento; 06-10-2016 at 03:17 PM.
Marduke - Solitaire...I've seen matches which are brighter AND have a longer runtime. 光陰矢の如し