Becoming a master user of illumination tools

McGizmo

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May 1, 2002
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Hi guys,

So much of our discussions relate to the specs of the various lights re: beam shape, angle, flux, runtimes, relative comparisons with other lights, etc. To varying degrees of interest and experience, we have come to know these tools here in discussion, and in hands and eyes on, evaluations. OK, we have the tools and we know and understand these tools. How do we actually use them?

The ambient level is low and we need to add light to better see a target. Is the natural response to point and shoot? If the target is a keyhole 3' away and the tool in hand a SF M6, is point and shoot effective? Is the natural response to take the M6 and point it elsewhere to use the indirect light reflected off other nearby objects or structures? SUppose you are walking on a light gray sidewalk with enough ambient light to make out your way without the need of a light but you come upon someting small that is moving on the sidewalk. Do you take your light and point and shoot? There is enough light reflected back from the light gray sidewalk to impair your dark adapted vision. Is your natural response to take the light and cover the front end with your hand and open a "shutter" of flood until you have just enough light to illuminate the moving object?

Until all of us are using varible level output illumination tools, many of us will be carrying lights that are typically brighter than they need to be for most needs. What are the various tricks some of you have learned to "spill" or block the extra light that isn't needed? If I may interject an analogy from my sailing back ground, with a given set of sails, one must not only learn how to get the max power from the sails in light air but one must learn the effective means of "depowering" when the wind stiffens. To a certain extent, I would think that a real master of an illumination tool would also have a "second nature" means of using the full power of light from his tool as well as knowing how to depower when the circumstance dictates.

Even the use of constant on versus momentarily on, as needed, seems to be all part of the effective use of illumination tools. When it's dark, I prefer adding light as needed as opposed to flooding the scene with as much light as I can bring to bear.

Perhaps I am just becomming aware of stuff that you guys have been taking for granted. I have been so busy making different lights and mods and just recently realized that I have a bunch of tricks to learn in actually using the bloody things! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif For instance, if you cover the front of the head with your hand and slowly open a gap from one side, you get a crescent of flood and all of a sudden you get a portion of the spot beam significantly apart from the flood crescent. It reminds me of a white ball hanging from a parachute. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have found that the crescent is ideal for reading or viewing something close at hand without getting a blast of too much light. I've also found that using my shirt tail or pullover as a "filter" will allow for a quick blast of dim light.

Enough of my rambling. What are some of the tricks of using our lights that you guys have found? I got plenty of the tools and it's hightime I learn how to use them! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

wasabe64

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Nov 12, 2003
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Abducted to The Granite Planet
Hi Don,

I use a variation of what you have described above:

I grip the bezel of my E2e in my weak hand between my thumb and first finger, cupping the rest of my hand around the bezel to control the amount of light needed for close-in work. I simply have to open/close my hand to control the brightness.

I used to even do this with D-cell m*gs.
 

Roy

Farewell our Curmudgeon Administrator
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Granbury, Tx USA
When theh target is close, I generally start with a "sweeping" motion in order to find the right amount of light. Distant targets usually get a point and shoot. I have a 1w MadMax Cyan that for close in (10-20 ft) work, I use a vertical sweeping motion, as the reflected light off a reflective surface, HURTS my eyes. That cyan light is really bright and needs a dimmer switch!
 

McGizmo

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Maui
Thanks wasabe64, I'll give that a try.

Roy, I have been using my PR based lights in this manner and since their flood is quite large in diameter compared to the relatively small hot spot, I have found that in many cases I can bring the flood portion into the target area without looking directly at the hot spot. With a larger hotspot like the KL4 or most 5W's or a more unified beam found with the fraen, this strategy is not as effective; I seem to have more luck with bouncing the light off something close to the target, horizontaly or above if there is something to reflect the light, but not directly in my line of focus.
 

SilverFox

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Jan 19, 2003
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Bellingham WA
Hello Don,

This is a non LEO or SAR perspective. They have special needs.

My experience with flashlights goes back to my involvement as a young man in the Boy Scouts. My Scoutmaster was a Marine. He taught us "covert" operations in the form of stalking game and playing Capture the Flag at night. At dusk and going into early night, we were able to sneak up on deer, squirrels, rabbits, ducks, geese, etc. After finishing our stalking adventure, we had to make our way back to camp. The general rule was to use as little light as necessary. Most of the time we were able to follow trails by feel and used very little light. At that time our flashlights and batteries were less reliable and I remember several times lighting a match to make out landmarks.

Our Scoutmaster also insisted that we learn to set up camp in the dark. We practiced this by wearing blindfolds. The tent set up in the dark may not look the best, but it will keep you dry in a storm.

A favorite game was Capture the Flag at night. We would sneak up on the other teams flag and stake the area out. We would tie twine to branches so we could create diversions. We would also tie twine around a small flashlight, turn it on and pull it through the brush. This would give enough distraction that the other team would be tempted to leave their flag unguarded and we would get it. Racing back to our flag we would turn lights on and barge through the brush as fast as we could go. We used little or no light during our stake out, then wanted the most light we could get for our final run home.

OK, how does that apply to using lights.

I believe that unless you are in a cave, or have sight problems, you can get around fine without any additional light at all. You may not know what kind of critter is down the path, but if it does not come after you, who cares. You should try walking down a wooded path in the dark with no additional light. You may go a bit slow, but there is really no problem. I can feel the slot that my key goes into and have no problems getting in my truck. I can also get up in the middle of the night, find my way to the bathroom, and relieve myself without making a mess or using a light.

In these situations you need very little, if any, light and a single LED light is more than adequate. If all you have is a higher powered light, you end up putting your hand (or shirt) over it to reduce the amount of light as you have indicated. This is actually a bit difficult to do. Often your hand will not be all the way over the light and you will get a flash of light that will ruin your night vision, or you may need your hand for something else.

Do we need high power lights? Yes, but they are for special needs.

I was tuning the carburetor on my truck in a lighted parking lot at night. I dropped a steel ball on the pavement under the truck. I tried looking for it with a single LED key chain light, and was unable to locate it. The ambiant lighting was too bright to make a small object stand out. I grabbed a brighter light and immeadiately located it. The extra light was necessary for contrast.

To go a step further, try to find a bolt or nut or washer that you have dropped in gravel near dusk. A really bright light will make the job easier.

I EDC a light with a beam that provides a nice hot spot and a good amount of spill (ARC LSH-P). This allows me to adjust the amount of light simply by how I aim the light. I have tried a more focused light (ARC LSHF-P and BabyPin) but found the beam a bit overpowering. I have also tried flood lights (L4 and InReTech TriLight) but found that I could not light up a single object with them. The flood lights illuminate a broad swath of area, but it is difficult to pick out the needle in the hay stack when all of the hay is illuminated. I guess the flood light tends to remove contrast from the scene.

I guess my trick is utilizing other senses to suppliment my eyes. Of course, anticipating situations and having a selection of lights to choose from also helps.

Tom
 

Nerd

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Jun 19, 2002
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I've requested some samples from POC quite some time ago. They've sent me a 80 degrees flood diffuser which I find quite pleasing for really spreading the light out when you want less light. Given that I live in a city, light pollution is always a prevailant problem and that usually means more light for anything I want to see better. Those pieces of flood diffuser comes in sizes of ~5cm squared. So it's quite handy for me to keep it in my wallet, and when I do need it, just take it out and place it over my E2E and I'll have a nice flood of dim light. It's only around 80% or so of light transmission I think, so it does cut down quite a bit. I usually carry 2 filters, a 80 degrees flood and a 20 degrees flood. 20 degrees opens up the E2E's MN03 hotspot up to twice it's diameter so it's 1/4 intensity in a much bigger area which I find quite useful for seeing things which are up to 5 meters away since the E2E doesn't have much spill to speak of, not like the PM6, I find that I'll see better by looking at the hotspot and sweeping the light, rather than using the side spill to see, as said, lots of light pollution in the city where I live, so YMMV.

I really ought to get a beam filter cover and cut those diffusers down to the right size. They are dang useful! Esp when you don't want a point source of light to have harsh shadows
 

Beretta1526

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I never carry less than 2 lights. My general carry is 4 lights. The fourth light is usually something that is 200+ lumens and is carried for the more obvious reasons.

As I don't have anything with variable output (other than my red L1), depending on the condition and required illumination, I choose the one that will fill the need. The only thing that gets switched at night is my 1W HD Lx gets replaced with a red L1.

If for some reason I'm stuck with a light that is brighter than needed, I will shine the light between my fingers to control the amount of light. Of course, this doesn't work with most of the high output lights. For that, I have to resort to indirect lighting if possible.

Right now, the key for me is carrying multiple lights. My AAA goes around my neck and the other lights tuck away easily, the only one that can be an issue is whichever light I'm carrying that is 200+ Lumens.
 

Cyclops942

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I tend to carry more lights than needed, simply because I can, and that lets me have the right tool for the job, instead of adapting a general-purpose tool for a specific need. My EDC "kit" ranges from single-cell, single-LED (5mm Nichia) lights to a 2-cell SureFire. If I need more throw or battery life than that, I head for my vehicle and the rechargeable Streamlights.
 

JOshooter

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I believe that this is the reason why the Arc AAA has become a "requirement" for the true flashaholic. It's just another tool with a different purpose to get jobs done.
 

JonSidneyB

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I think no matter what, some people will need at least two lights as a minimum. A adjustable brightness pocket light and light that is almost never used. This light that is almost never used is to insure that when you need the light to work no matter what, you have a light with no run time on the batteries. This light might be your tactical light. Use the adjustable for utilitarian tasks, save the other for when its serious.
 

McGizmo

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Good comments! Knowing your tools and having a choice of selection is obviously ideal. However, in a pinch, we often make do with what we have and it's the "how" more than the "what" that I want to learn more about. I particularly liked SilverFox's post. I too prefer to work with the ambient levels as much as possible. There is a big difference between a quick "look see" and setting up for a task where illumination is required and night vision or low level adaptation is not as important as adequate illumination of the task area or object at hand. If the light is on long enough, you will adapt to this level over ambient or so my experience has been.

There are some good examples of overcoming shaddow in otherwise bright ambient levels. In these cases, the higher output lights are more in need than in low level ambient. Under the hood of a car, at high noon, is one of the most trying applications where artificial light needs to come into play.
 

BC0311

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May 31, 2003
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[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
I have been using my PR based lights in this manner and since their flood is quite large in diameter compared to the relatively small hot spot, I have found that in many cases I can bring the flood portion into the target area without looking directly at the hot spot...

[/ QUOTE ]

Don, it's what you describe here about the character of your PR based beam that makes it such a favorite with me.

For up close, I can turn the switch to constant on, then hold the light by the head and my hand blocks the hotspot from reflecting back into my retinas. I use the outer part of the flood or outside the flood entirely for good enough illumination, say, to read the ingredients on a small package.

Yet, I still have bright flood and intense cohesed beam in the center for throw. All with one output setting and one action of the switch.

When I'm putzing around the house or car with a harem of lights begging for attention, I am lavish with lux. But, out in the world, I rarely need the full powers of my 6 volt lights.

Britt
 

PhotonFanatic

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I have found in low-light or dark situations that if you have too bright a light for up close illumination that the best solution often is to merely turn the light around in your hand, so that the light points in back of you.

Surprisingly, there is usually enough backscatter from what is behind you to be just enough light to see what's in front of you. And you can use your fingers on the end of the light to actually do something, without blocking the light or creating distracting shadows.
 

Josey

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I always have a low-intensity key-chain light, such as the Photon, but even that is sometimes too bright for the wilderness where I live. If I need more light, but want to save my night vision, I close one eye. Not a perfect solution, but plenty useful.
 

Pi_is_blue

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I live outside of the city and have to walk down to the school bus each morning when it is still dark out. My road is a single lane road with no street lights. Even though it is usually light enough for me to stay on the road, I like to have my EliteMax on at a low setting so that cars will see me better. I also use my SBP to spot things that move off the side of the road such as rabbits and deer.
 

Alan Hsu

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Dec 19, 2002
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Don,

Colored beam (cyan especially) can easily cut through ambient light. However, not everyone likes colored light. For example, intense cyan beam actually gives me a headache.
 

mindstretch

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Dec 9, 2002
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British Columbia, Canada
"Becoming a master user of illumination tools"

Aaahhh, McGizmo, when you are able to snatch this AAA from the palm of my hand.........

Flashlight Fu: The Legend Continues

Sorry, I couldn't resist !
 

RadarGreg

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May 10, 2002
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Bamberg
Anyone thought about offering a Bachelor's Degree in Illuminology through CPF University? Probably could use the GI Bill or grants to pay for it. I'd think the tuition would be pretty cheap, but the classroom required material (Arc AAA, Surefires, etc.)would quickly add to the price, hehe. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
 

Bravo25

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Nov 17, 2003
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Kansas, USA
If you purchse a baton, or an asp, usually the companies that make those will offer a training class to certify you. They will offer a certification class to instructors as well. Perhaps something along those lines would work. Each light manufacture supply the training.
 
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