I have a 2004 Toyota Camry, I would like to upgrade to HID lights. I know I can't just use the HID replacement bulbs. I see some kits out there for about $300 that replace the whole headlight assembly. Would the reflectors in these replacements be ok for the HID bulb that come with them? Does this price sound legit for headlight replacement?
HID upgrade, light assembly?
- Thread starter Dave H
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There are no real (legitimate) HID headlamps for an '04 Camry. Any product claiming to be that is a headlight-shaped trinket, not effective, safe, or legal. Steer away. And you're right to suspect the price; a legitimate set of HID headlamps, if they existed for that car, would cost at least twice the $300 price you found.
Your car being 12 years old, it's likely the headlamps have age-related degradation (fogged/yellowed lenses). That means it's time for new headlamps, and they really must be genuine Toyota parts, because even just staying with halogen, all of the aftermarket lamps are junk no matter what claims they make.
With real (Toyota) headlamps in like new condition, you can improve your ability to see at night by installing these bulbs in the low beams. Make sure the lamps are aimed correctly.
Your car being 12 years old, it's likely the headlamps have age-related degradation (fogged/yellowed lenses). That means it's time for new headlamps, and they really must be genuine Toyota parts, because even just staying with halogen, all of the aftermarket lamps are junk no matter what claims they make.
With real (Toyota) headlamps in like new condition, you can improve your ability to see at night by installing these bulbs in the low beams. Make sure the lamps are aimed correctly.
Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've had reliable service from parts.olathetoyota.com. Genuine Toyota parts, and prices to beat the Stillwater, Tulsa, and OKC dealerships I've hit up. $462.22 gets you a pair of genuine headlamps. Sure, that's still a bit of money, but when I finally replaced the headlamps on my '01 Corolla I was extremely glad that I had.
To the OP. I have installed the bulbs recommended to you, in my wife's ( only one wife, lordy knows, that's too many at times ) 06 Ford Fiesta, and in my 08 GT Sport Golf and have been very happy. An exceedingly unscientific test on the Fiesta, involving a new, basic 60/55w ( good brand ) H4 in the rh light housing, and fishing around the brightest area of light on a flat wall at 1 meter, with a lux meter, netted about 12,000 lux. Changing bulb to H4 60/55 Extreme vision 100's by Philips upped that figure to about 21,000 lux. Made the output of the basic, single reflector headlamps, acceptable ( from ' not great ', IMVHO ). This measure was on low only, but main/high exhibited a similar improvement on the road, ohh, and not one complaint from oncoming drivers.
The tradeoff for better light, is a bit shorter lifespan of the bulb, but who cares ?? , then its time for a new pair anyway.
Goes without saying, but do your best to keep those polycarbonate covers in good, clear condition. Helps as many of those lux as possible, to make it to the road surface.
The tradeoff for better light, is a bit shorter lifespan of the bulb, but who cares ?? , then its time for a new pair anyway.
Goes without saying, but do your best to keep those polycarbonate covers in good, clear condition. Helps as many of those lux as possible, to make it to the road surface.
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I too have switched to the Philips Xtreme Vision bulbs (9007 socket in my case) and they made a world of difference. I will mention another thing that I havent seen in this thread: consider making a headlight relay harness. You can get pre-made ones for about $80-100, or you can make one for under $50. If you do, note that Toyota vehicles often (though not always) use a ground-switched system- positive is constant at the bulb and the headlight switch/multifuncton switch controls ground.
To see if this is worth it, get a cheap multimeter (or borrow one) and measure voltage drop at your bulbs (key on engine running lights on). In my case I had at least 1.4vdc up to 1.8vdc drop. By raising voltage at the bulbs, you raise the desire of electricity to flow, which invariably increases the amount of electricity that flows (amperage) when given a fixed load (resistance- the bulbs are the same load). The greater flow results in greater light output at the expense of bulb life. Notes:
- Light output of a bulb is exponentially correlated to voltage input by a power of positive 3.4.
- Bulb life is exponentially correlated to voltage input by a power of negative 13.
The manufacturers like to skimp on wiring to save money and improve bulb life, and they are only required to supply sufficient voltage when new to make the bulbs of their given type (h4, h11, 9003, 9007, etc) meet their rated output. Also over time, the process of turning on the lights burns/corrodes the switch contacts which increases resistance thus reducing current flow. This typically results in bulbs in older cars having about 11.8vdc-12.6vdc under load; a relay harness bringing power through 12-14 gauge wire will up that number to 13.8-14vdc when the car is running (since alternator is usually regulated between 14.2 to 14.5vdc), and therefor you will get more light output.
Im no expert, but in my readings here and elsewhere, the best four upgrades you can do for weak halogen headlights is:
1) High performance bulbs that have clear glass (no blue tinted crap); avoid long-life bulbs at all cost
2) Relay wiring harness to reduce voltage drop and increase current flow
3) New OEM headlamp housings, or at the very least carefully polish and UV seal the ones you have (polishing will never make them as good as new)
4) Turn down your interior lighting! Turn down dash lights to what is necessary to read your gauges and no more- the more light produced by these gauges the more your pupils contract in turn limiting your ability get light from outside the vehicle (reducing night vision).
Any mistakes/over-generalizations/understated things Ive said above please feel free to correct vets!
To see if this is worth it, get a cheap multimeter (or borrow one) and measure voltage drop at your bulbs (key on engine running lights on). In my case I had at least 1.4vdc up to 1.8vdc drop. By raising voltage at the bulbs, you raise the desire of electricity to flow, which invariably increases the amount of electricity that flows (amperage) when given a fixed load (resistance- the bulbs are the same load). The greater flow results in greater light output at the expense of bulb life. Notes:
- Light output of a bulb is exponentially correlated to voltage input by a power of positive 3.4.
- Bulb life is exponentially correlated to voltage input by a power of negative 13.
The manufacturers like to skimp on wiring to save money and improve bulb life, and they are only required to supply sufficient voltage when new to make the bulbs of their given type (h4, h11, 9003, 9007, etc) meet their rated output. Also over time, the process of turning on the lights burns/corrodes the switch contacts which increases resistance thus reducing current flow. This typically results in bulbs in older cars having about 11.8vdc-12.6vdc under load; a relay harness bringing power through 12-14 gauge wire will up that number to 13.8-14vdc when the car is running (since alternator is usually regulated between 14.2 to 14.5vdc), and therefor you will get more light output.
Im no expert, but in my readings here and elsewhere, the best four upgrades you can do for weak halogen headlights is:
1) High performance bulbs that have clear glass (no blue tinted crap); avoid long-life bulbs at all cost
2) Relay wiring harness to reduce voltage drop and increase current flow
3) New OEM headlamp housings, or at the very least carefully polish and UV seal the ones you have (polishing will never make them as good as new)
4) Turn down your interior lighting! Turn down dash lights to what is necessary to read your gauges and no more- the more light produced by these gauges the more your pupils contract in turn limiting your ability get light from outside the vehicle (reducing night vision).
Any mistakes/over-generalizations/understated things Ive said above please feel free to correct vets!
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tedjanxt
Enlightened
Especially the voltage drop. Makes a big difference. I've upgraded all my headlamp harnesses, and I build.my own off-road lighting switch/relay/harnesses. Always solder, never crimp.
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Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
Actually, it's 3.4, and that's the power, not the factor (we're dealing with exponents here).
Actually, the
Dimming the instrument panel is always a good idea-- however, your eyes do not "pull in photons".
The polish/reseal is stopgap, of course-- nothing beats new OEM lamp assemblies.
Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
You don't find soldered connections in many places in cars already, rather things are connected mechanically through crimping. Crimping is often the more secure connection and is less likely to come apart from vibration like a soldered connection.
Where can I buy quality wiring harness?
I switched to Philips extreme vision years ago. I like that I can but them locally now.
On dark roads they are fine. However I commute through town. Often times I check to make sure my headlights are on, which they are. Gas stations car lots and lots of external lights mess with your night vision.
My wife has a 2010 Acura which has HID low beams, what a world of difference. When a car with HID or LED lights is behind me I can see so much better except for the dark shadow directly in front of me.
I have had the headlights tested and made sure they are aimed correctly by three different places, I keep the lenses crystal clear. Surely there is something I can do to get better performance from my headlights. I have 3 boys in college so a new vehicle is out of question for now.
I switched to Philips extreme vision years ago. I like that I can but them locally now.
On dark roads they are fine. However I commute through town. Often times I check to make sure my headlights are on, which they are. Gas stations car lots and lots of external lights mess with your night vision.
My wife has a 2010 Acura which has HID low beams, what a world of difference. When a car with HID or LED lights is behind me I can see so much better except for the dark shadow directly in front of me.
I have had the headlights tested and made sure they are aimed correctly by three different places, I keep the lenses crystal clear. Surely there is something I can do to get better performance from my headlights. I have 3 boys in college so a new vehicle is out of question for now.
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Thanks, fixed.
Rallylights.com or Daniel Stern Lighting- both should be good ones. Either place can custom build you a harness if you have specific needs.
I would humbly say that the wiring harness is probably your best option for better light at the lowest cost (since you have good bulbs), but id be real hesitant to do that without at least making sure- hate for you to spend some $$ only to find out your voltage drop wasnt that severe.
Given your vehicle is a 2004, I wouldnt be surprised if your headlamp assemblies are all hazed out. Turn the headlights on and take a look at the headlights- do you see yellowed blur, stress cracks, moisture, or the like? If so, all of that reduces light output and increases glare to other drivers. Replacing headlamps is sadly needed nowadays with the plastic lenses automakers use, and unfortunately the OEM ones are the only versions that arent complete junk.
