New project, wall sconces.

My wife and I decided to take a waltz thru Lowe's to walk off lunch last weekend and we came across 2 of these wall sconces in the clearance section, apparently they were a custom order that someone cancelled....




To which she said "these are only $3/ea. think you could do something with them?"

After taking a look at the whole fixture, we decided that $6 isn't too much to waste on a possibility of nice lights...




This will need to go....



Seems to be plenty of room on the back side.... Hmmmm...



Smell what I'm cooking?

Need to devise a driver, since I don't want to drive 1 (or more?) XM-L2 at full tilt only.. Thinking 3 stage, maybe 4 at most. A moonlight mode could be nice but might just be too dim to bother.
Something else I'm kicking around is a dual function switch, one being the L-M-H, and the other using a "flicker" circuit to simulate actual candlelight for ambiance.
Will have to sculpt the heatsink some to match the shape and style of the base of the fixture.
Deciding on single or triple HCRI XM-L2s. Thinking triple might be overkill.
Still deciding on a 4p 18650 option or a larger, flat pack style Lipo.
It's going to charged via internal charge board using a mini USB port so most cell chargers can charge it.
Will simply hang on a nail/screw so removal to charge isn't an issue.

So, initial testing seems promising on the flicker option. Std cheap LED tealight seems to pass enough current to effectively light the xml2 enough that I'm satisfied but the flicker pattern isn't quite what I'm looking for... More hi-low blinking so much as flickering. :/ so I'll be on the lookout for a more realistic flicker. If anyone has suggestions, they're welcome!

If it was me I'd use a low dropout linear regulator, run the batts in parallel, it works great with the latest low-Vf LEDs. You end up with something like 87% average efficiency (around 75% fully charged, and near 100% at end of charge). LM7135s aren't bad, but I build ones with much lower dropout, to get that last 0.1V out of the batts. If you want to do it on the cheap, 7135 based drivers can be had for a few bucks.

Then add a low power micro (or re-program the one on the board you bought) to dim/flicker using PWM. You can twiddle with the program until you have it just the way you like. I know there are some boards out there that people have figured out how to re-flash, and several programs are available.

Ya know, DIW, I had a similar thought with the 7135s,...
Was thinking a 4 way switch.
1. 2.8A
2. 1.4A
3. 0.7A
4. Candle light mode
Diy board, simple switch.

Just need a high quality "flicker" .

Preliminary tests show promise....

looks like you need a way to diffuse the light more to more evenly illuminate the sconce. the bottom appears so much brighter than the rest of it.

Yup, bought a box of ping pong balls a while back for that very reason! Lol

Heatsink cut... Hole in progress.



And heatsink installed.

All my projects/services are on hold UFN.
Sorry guys.