Endurance Race car lights

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24motorsport

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Hi guys,
New and very unknowledgeable member of the forum here.
I own a motor racing team based in the UK, I am looking for some help and advice in several areas of forward facing lighting. To give you a brief overview;
We have just finished building some very special race cars,the base model is series 1 Lotus motorsport Exige, however the only component that our cars share with the standard production model is the aluminium chassis tub its self.
We are going to be racing in a world wide 24hr championship called 24hr series, which will see us racing against factory devolved machines from Ferrari, Porsche, Aston martin, Audi etc etc, all of which will leave the factory with motor sport specific lights from the manufactures. As a small privateer team we simply don't have access to the budget or technology that they do, which puts us on a major back foot during the most testing part of a24hr race, when its dark.
Most of the other privateer teams tend to run touring based cars, BMW m3's and similar, and don't have anything like the meaningful aerodynamics that we do. So see no issue with nailing big lights and light barson the front. We would like a slightly more scientific approach to our lighting that doesn't rely pure grunt to light up the road.
Restraints we don't have are;
Any need for road compliance, whether it be compliance markings,maximum output power or road complying beam patterns
What we are allowed to have;
Up to six forward facing "pairs" of lights, no cap on power,(led lights are classed as one unit regardless of the of there size or number of emitters)
What we need to find solutions for;
1 pair of headlights (currently hella 90mm 55w halogen) (not massively impressive beam pattern)
1 pair of apex lights (positioned on an angle away from the centreline of the front body panel, to enable the drivers to spot the apex of a corner before they change the angle of the car)
1 Pair of long range spots (corners approach fairly rapidly at150mph)
Constraints we have;
We would like to keep the power consumption to a bare minimum possible (alternator is already fairly heavily loaded)
Form factor constraints (ill expand on this)
Light weight
Robust enough to bounce over kerbs at 100mph
Most of our competitors (privateer) tend to simply nail on these and call it problem solved. Although they are very good lights in how far they throw as spots, they are in no way something we can use due to them being a bar and therefore something we have no way of mounting without ruining aerodynamics (which we have spent two years developing)
We have space for
Headlights; max 130mm diameter circular (smaller if possible)
Long range spots; max 100mm diameter circle
Apex lights; max 100mm diameter either circle or oval
We have looked at most of the major manufactures of lights ,and nothing we have found seems to tick all the boxes. The biggest issue weseem to be having is with long range spots. We don't have a huge budget and cant buy lots of different lights to test.
But if any of you guys have any outside of the box ideas, i would very much appreciate a bit of input. Lighting knowledge is limited but wehave a full cnc engineering shop and we specialise in motorsport electronics soa bit of modifying isn't out of the question.
We are chasing massive lumens figures, we are more interested in the right beam pattern, colour and throw. Led's appear to be a very interesting concept for most of the above reasons.
I look forward to any input.
And i am sorry if i come across as slightly under informed.
Regards Chris
Ps, standard headlights aren't worth the materials they are made out of
 
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-Virgil-

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Hi, welcome to the forum. Your post was full of FONT/COLOR tagging that was quite unnecessary. Please don't do that, thank you.

You've given a pretty detailed picture of what you want to accomplish in terms of lighting. One piece missing: cost constraints. How much can you spend on your whole lighting package? What does "not a huge budget" mean?

Your competitors are very gullible and not very observant if they really run those fraudulent toy lamps you linked.

they are in no way something we can use due to them being a bar and therefore something we have no way of mounting without ruining aerodynamics (which we have spent two years developing)

So you're seeking six pairs of very small, inexpensive, highly durable lamps with extremely high output and performance...is that correct?

Headlights; max 130mm diameter circular (smaller if possible)

Depth...?

Long range spots; max 100mm diameter circle

Depth...?

Apex lights; max 100mm diameter either circle or oval

Depth...?

We are chasing massive lumens figures, we are more interested in the right beam pattern, colour and throw.

What do you consider the "right" color?

Ps, standard headlights aren't worth the materials they are made out of

Which headlamps are we talking about here?
 

monkeyboy

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Hello and welcome to CPF!

I look forward to seeing what develops. Maybe you could post some pictures to give a better idea of what you are working with (I like pictures of race cars too!). Here is a link on how to post pictures on CPF.

These are some suggestions that I would make:

- Do not use LED replacement bulb units (the ones that directly replace the halogen bulbs). The output is much lower than claimed and the heatsinking is completely inadequate for the level of LED power.

- The quick and dirty method would be to replace the existing halogen bulbs with HID units. There are plenty of conversion kits online. Go for warmer colour temperatures like 4300K or 5000K as they are more efficient and easier on the eye than cool white (6500K and above). 55W (actual power) HID units are far brighter than the stock halogen bulbs but obviously not road legal. The only problem with these HID conversion kits is that the beam pattern can be hit and miss with the original reflectors. Sometimes you can get a decent beam pattern, sometimes not. You just need to try. The quality of these conversion kits can also be hit and miss.

- The other option, which I'm guessing is what you are looking to do, is to completely build new LED headlights from scratch. You'll need to choose the right LED, reflector, driver and heatsink.
1) My choice of LED would be the Cree MT-G2 as this has high output, efficiency and great colour uniformity. Go for ~5000K colour temperature.
2) 100-130mm diameter reflector is easily enough for decent throw with the MT-G2.
3) The driver needs to be able to deal with voltage spikes from the cars electrical system. (Taskled used to make good automotive rated driver boards but discontinued). Can't think of anything off the top of my head.
4) The heatsink is a very important part of the build. The LEDs and driver board must be attached to a heatsink. Without adequate heatsinking, the LEDs will run inefficiently or may burn out. Aluminium is the best material for a heatsink as the thermal conductivity is high and weight is low. If the heatsink is mounted internally with little airflow, the heatsink needs to be large.

- Whatever you choose to do, you need to test it thoroughly for reliability in different conditions (rain, hot weather, cold weather etc.). Some of these HID conversion kits and LED driver boards can be unreliable.
 

mcnair55

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Would suggest as you are in the UK...Demon Tweeks as the first port of call,as you are most likely aware the owners (Minshaw family) are very active in racing their own cars in many different race disciplines.
 

-Virgil-

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The quick and dirty method would be to replace the existing halogen bulbs with HID units.

Not a realistic option -- race cars need reliable lights that work, and "HID kits" flunk both of those criteria.

The only problem with these HID conversion kits is that the beam pattern can be hit and miss with the original reflectors. Sometimes you can get a decent beam pattern, sometimes not.

It's not "hit and miss", it's miss and miss.

The other option, which I'm guessing is what you are looking to do, is to completely build new LED headlights from scratch.

Also not a realistic option. To get anything like a usable beam pattern requires extensive optical knowledge and experience. One does not simply "choose the right LED, reflector, driver, and heat sink" and come up with anything usable, let alone durable or reliable.
 

Alaric Darconville

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- The other option, which I'm guessing is what you are looking to do, is to completely build new LED headlights from scratch. You'll need to choose the right LED, reflector, driver and heatsink

Which means, actually, they will not be building new headlamps from scratch. The best way to choose the right LED, reflector, driver, and heatsink is to buy a genuine LED headlamp from the likes of JW Speaker or Truck-Lite.
 

monkeyboy

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To get anything like a usable beam pattern requires extensive optical knowledge and experience. One does not simply "choose the right LED, reflector, driver, and heat sink" and come up with anything usable, let alone durable or reliable.

If something doesn't exist then that's exactly what one does. The OP seems to be pretty skilled in electronics and CNC machining. The rest is down to trial and error.
 
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-Virgil-

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The OP seems to be pretty skilled in electronics and CNC machining. The rest is down to trial and error.

No, it isn't, any more than you could successfully make a set of working contact lenses by "trial and error".
 

24motorsport

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Thanks for all of the replies guys. Sorry for the font/color tagging. Not totally sure what that is, but I am assuming that it could have been something to do with me constructing the post in MS word first?


Headlights; 130mm diameter, 70mm depth
Long range spots; 100mm diameter 120mm depth
Apex lights; 100mm diameter 200mm depth
The above dimensions are the absolute maximums for each light.


Colour wise, from all the reading I have done I would have to guess that somewhere around the 4000k mark is what we should be looking for? Porsche seem to use something that looks close to 3000k in there factory cars, I have always considered this to be because they are trying to limit glare in the rain?


I was talking about the original equipment headlights that the car would have had should it have left lotus. They are a valeo item and are truly terrible for both throw and pattern.


Cost wise, I was more saying that we don't have the budget to contract in a company or consultant to design us bespoke items. Not that cost is a really big limitation for off the shelf items. However, due to the fact that the cars take damage fairly regularly, and lights will probably be part of that on a lot of occasions, it would be nice to think that we could get each set for a max of circa £300. If that's not possible and we have to spend more then so be it.


Before doing any particular research and simply following the same route as the uniformed masses, we did purchase a set of HID bulbs and ballasts to try as a retro fit. And I totally agree with them being fit for nothing but the bin.


As I have said i would be happy with 4,300k or even less but the colour temp can wait. Beam pattern is my first priority. As to flux density; 3,000 lm would be a big improvement on the 55W halogens and if I could produce the right beam pattern, eliminating wasted illumination, I could not see us needing more than 5,000 per spotlight to compete with the Astons etc.


Each parabola has a focal point and my thoughts are that only one bit of a filament can be located at this point. Is this why tight beamed spotlights all need a big reflector? My lack of optics geometry knowledge lets me down here but I assume that flux density will be more important than overall flux emitted as a smaller light source could be better positioned at the focal point. A LED light source could be more focussed, not have any wasted light bouncing off the back of the lamp cap, would not need the back half of the parabola at all and could it be focussed with a smaller diameter reflector? If my thoughts are correct, then the only remaining thing is to squash the beam vertically to produce the automotive preferred flat beam pattern and this could be done with the outer glass.


Might there be an advantage, when considering LEDs, in going for a reflector designed for a laterally orientated filament rather than the axial? Could this give me a flat beam when using a lateral array of LEDS without the need for a distortion lens? I haven't seen lamps like these on the market but I suppose they would be easier produced than the existing sideways emitting ones.


Other thoughts are a lateral array of 8 (4x2) closely mounted LEDs behind a lens big enough to catch about 140 degrees of flux with a reflector arranged to catch the less dense spill. Again my lack of optics geometry knowledge is a challenge and I haven't even considered heat dissipation. What could be done by mounting a lens right on top of the array? Would it have to be glass because of the heat?


Ideally we would be by lights or maybe modify the contents of off the shelf housings rather than build our own from scratch as we could do with finding a solution within the next couple of weeks. Doesn't mean I am not up for a bit of background project if someone has any ideas for something that isn't on the market?


With regards to Demon tweeks, they are fairly over priced on a lot of things, and pretty much the best they have to offer is the lights I previously mentioned. They are not used very often by the trade unless its a rush job, as they do get things to you very quickly.


Had a quick look on JW speaker and truck-lite but couldn't find any specs or beam patterns on either sites for there lights. Am I missing something? or does anyone have this information?


I try and get some pictures up later on tonight when I am back in front of my computer at home.


In my original post there was an error whereby I said "we are chasing big lumen figures" should have said "we aren't simply chasing big lumen figures"


Hope this helps, and I am sorry if I have messed text up again. And thanks for all the input so far.


Cheers
 

-Virgil-

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Thanks for all of the replies guys. Sorry for the font/color tagging. Not totally sure what that is, but I am assuming that it could have been something to do with me constructing the post in MS word first?

Yep, that'll do it. Please use a plain-text editor if you wish to compose in another program.

Headlights; 130mm diameter, 70mm depth
Long range spots; 100mm diameter 120mm depth
Apex lights; 100mm diameter 200mm depth
The above dimensions are the absolute maximums for each light. Cost wise, it would be nice to think that we could get each set for a max of circa £300. If that's not possible and we have to spend more then so be it.

That's a tall order: small lamps with high performance and low cost. You might take a hard look at the JW Speaker Model 90 units. The bird's-eye-view beam plots are in the PDFs accessible ("View") in the part number list about halfway down the page. Three pairs of high beam units aimed to converge at a strategic distance ahead of the car, a pair of symmetrical-beam low beam units angled about 1° outward, a pair of LH-traffic low beams and a pair of RH-traffic low beams, with all low beams aimed 0.5° up (not down as with normal public-roads low beams) will give a wide and long fan of light without violating your size constraints. Or if you can squeeze in a 100mm square, use these higher-output ones.

Colour wise, from all the reading I have done I would have to guess that somewhere around the 4000k mark is what we should be looking for?

The only worrying about color you should do is not to go too high in color temperature. Beyond that, it's not very important. The JW Speaker lamps are about 5000K.

Before doing any particular research and simply following the same route as the uniformed masses, we did purchase a set of HID bulbs and ballasts to try as a retro fit. And I totally agree with them being fit for nothing but the bin.

They don't even light up the bin very well :)

Might there be an advantage, when considering LEDs, in going for a reflector designed for a laterally orientated filament rather than the axial?

No. LEDs do not work with reflectors designed for filaments, any more than "HID kits" do, and for the same reason.
 

fastgun

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Can you purchase Audi R8 headlights and reform your front end to fit them?
They seem to work fairly well for Audi.
 

Alaric Darconville

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Thanks for all of the replies guys. Sorry for the font/color tagging. Not totally sure what that is, but I am assuming that it could have been something to do with me constructing the post in MS word first?
I thought that might be the case. I just use notepad.exe or Notepad++ when composing 'offline'.

No real damage done, usually-- but sometimes it really messes with reading on mobile devices or quoting text.
 

DIWdiver

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Each parabola has a focal point and my thoughts are that only one bit of a filament can be located at this point. Is this why tight beamed spotlights all need a big reflector? My lack of optics geometry knowledge lets me down here but I assume that flux density will be more important than overall flux emitted as a smaller light source could be better positioned at the focal point. A LED light source could be more focussed, not have any wasted light bouncing off the back of the lamp cap, would not need the back half of the parabola at all and could it be focussed with a smaller diameter reflector? If my thoughts are correct, then the only remaining thing is to squash the beam vertically to produce the automotive preferred flat beam pattern and this could be done with the outer glass.

Yes, tight beams need big reflectors. But only if you need to capture the max amount of light possible into the beam. Well, obviously you want that, so yes.

LEDs are at a distinct DISadvantage when used with reflectors. The bulk of the light from an LED is in a relatively small cone (say 60-120 degrees wide) centered around an axis perpendicular to the face of the LED. If your reflector is as deep as it is wide, then the light that's within a 52 degree wide cone will go straight out the front without ever hitting the reflector. That's a HUGE loss. Filaments and arcs are much closer to omnidirectional emitters, so the light in the 52-degree cone that's lost without being focused is proportionately a much smaller loss. To prevent this lost light from becoming a problem, headlamps often (always?) have a shield to block some or all of this light.

Also, LEDs are a much larger 2-dimensional emitter than filaments and arcs, which makes the optics design a much different challenge.

The only way to capture the bulk of an LED's light on a reflector would be to face the LED into the reflector. You could then use a much smaller and shallower reflector, but you're left with the problem of how to mount the LED in this position, how to heatsink it, and how to eliminate the shadow of the mounting/heatsinking system from the beam.

It's for these reasons that you usually see LEDs used with lenses instead of reflectors. When using LEDs with lenses, the problems of size and light capture are greatly mitigated, and shadowing is eliminated. But now you need a good lens designer and manufacturer.

There are a multitude of lenses designed to produce all kinds of beams from LEDs. It's possible you could craft something useful out of off-the-shelf parts, but I doubt it. I've never seen lenses designed for automotive uses, probably because you cannot DIY street-legal lights, and anyone making legal lights isn't going to sell components separately, and the off-road DIY lighting community probably isn't large enough to support commercial component products.
 

-Virgil-

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LEDs are at a distinct DISadvantage when used with reflectors (...) It's for these reasons that you usually see LEDs used with lenses instead of reflectors.

That's actually not at all true. There are numerous very good, very efficient LED headlamps, fog lamps, etc with reflector optics and without lens optics.
 

rikgray

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LED spot lights work for me in night enduro road racing here in California
I use 6 - 10 watt LED spotlights (10 degree beams 900 lumens each 800 ma @ 12vdc) on each fender. 12 lights total
(Currently using Superbrightleds.com Mini Aux Lights 2" modular)

3 lights pointed forward
3 lights fanned 10, 20, 30 degrees to the side. on each fender

Any beam pattern besides spot wastes light in the up and down direction.
 

Alaric Darconville

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LED spot lights work for me in night enduro road racing here in California
In that they light up. That's not exactly working "fine".

Those are work lights, not auxiliary high beams. We don't get to take lamps designed for a certain purpose and then declare them to be another kind of lamp.

Any beam pattern besides spot wastes light in the up and down direction.

That's not how this works. That's not how any of this works.

If you want to use that nonsense on a track, that's fine. But not on the road.
 
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