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Thread: Programming my new Spy

  1. #1

    Default Programming my new Spy

    Hello CPF

    I just got my first Spy and am in total love. I am having a hard time figuring out how to program the levels. I figured out how to get level 6 to max output because I found the exact steps needed to get it there.

    What I haven't been able to figure out is how to lower the outputs. I want to program a low mode group for camping.

    If someone could give me a clear example I can probably figure it out.

    I understand the PU4 but don't get how to key in what I want after the first 2 steps.

    Thanks for any help

  2. #2
    Flashaholic* ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond's Avatar
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    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    Here are some instructions I have put together for programming the Tri-V. (I must credit Data for writing most of this up - I just compiled it from several different postings) I believe it was the first to come out with this type of programming and then the Spy007 lights followed shortly I believe with the first XP-G versions.

    For the purpose of the Spy007:
    - Omit steps 2 through 6.
    - Replace the word 'spinning' with 'blinking" as there is only one emitter.

    Spy Tri-V Light Engine Programming

    • PU1 is to select the configuration. A total of 4 configurations can be used.
    • PU2 is the lock; same as in the 007
    • PU3 is the calibrate; same as in the 007
    • PU4 is the light engine programming
    • PU5 is the power level report
    • PU6 is the battery meter; same as in the 007

    If you choose to program the Tri-V you will need to read the following text and view the videos. Of course it is not necessary to ever change the power levels if you are happy with the default factory configuration. But having said that I know most of you will want to play. This really is the point of the Tri-V, it will morph into the light you need, not the one I think you need.

    When you make changes to the settings on the Tri-V, there is a progression that you will follow. There are flashes from the LEDs to let you know you are moving through the stages. First you choose the knob position you want to modify, then you select the emitter(s) you want on that position, then you again choose the knob position you want to modify, and select the power level you want.

    The power-up-4, abbreviated as “PU4”, lets you select the emitter(s) you want on and input the current they will run at. It does this in two stages. The first stage is the “emitter stage” and the second stage is the “power stage”. The user will see the transition between the two stages. It is denoted by a quick bright flash of the reflector called the “stage transition flash”.

    Let’s say you want to associate a knob position with a different emitter than it is currently set to. In this case you will have to enter the emitter stage and the power stage. If however, you only want to change the current on one of the positions, you can skip over the emitter stage and go right to the power stage.

    As you enter each stage I say the three emitters are spinning but really they are simply lighting up one after another in a way that makes them look like the light is chasing around in a circle. They do this for 10 seconds and it is your cue to set the knob position. As the LED’s are spinning the computer is not looking at the switch so it does not matter what positions you move the knob through. It only matters what position the knob is in when at the end of the 10 seconds when the LED’s stop spinning.

    To break this down into steps I created this list but you might read it and watch the video together to aid in understanding it. These are the programming steps for setting emitters and power levels:
    1. power-up-4 (you are now in the emitter stage)
    2. while lights are spinning, select knob position (in the video I chose position 2)
    3. toggle knob back and forth till desired emitter combination is on
    4. set knob to the off position, this starts the lights spinning again (before the light stops spinning you can go back to step two)
    5. wait for the “stage transition flash” (you are now in the power stage)
    6. while lights are spinning, select knob position to modify (in the video I chose position 2)
    7. set the knob to home position P1 (the flood will be flashing to let you know you are there)
    8. key in the sequence to set the power level (see definitions below, in the video I set it at 220mA)
    9. set knob to the off position P0
    10. light will spin for 10 seconds and end (before the light stops spinning you can go back to step six)
    11. the light will perform a calibration for the settings you modified (this takes several seconds)
    12. the light is now ready for use **

    ** if the light cannot be turned on, perform a power-up-0, all the programming will be retained.

    Knob/Switch position definitions to key in power levels (F=flood, R=reflector, A=asphere):
    • knob position 0 = off
    • knob position 1 = home (F is flashing)
    • knob position 2 = +1mA (R is on)
    • knob position 3 = +10mA (A is on)
    • knob position 4 = +100mA (R & A are on)
    • knob position 5 = not used
    • knob position 6 = -0.1mA (for <5mA settings)

  3. #3

    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    An addition to the instructions.

    Position 5, when programming levels, is 1000mA for STFu mkIII and later engines.
    Who needs to see the light at the end of the tunnel when you have friends on CPF?
    My flashlight videos: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...9TIYcGeuBXa5m0

  4. #4
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    archimedes's Avatar
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    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    You are really going to want to watch the video examples ....
    ... is the archimedes peak

  5. #5

    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    I read and watched the videos that I found the other day. I wonder if I was reading the wrong stuff. My light is the XML2 with stfu mk3

    When I programmed my level 6 to max output what I didn't get was
    A. That is went back and forth from 5-4 5-4 5-4 then to 0...I understand 5 represents 1000mA but what did the switch back and forth to 4 represent? ....Is there another number rather than 4 that deducts the value if 4 is code for +mA....or maybe there is no deduction from stock settings except the level 6 for very low values

  6. #6

    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    Hmm,

    It is not a "deduction" from stock settings, as you put it. It is rather, the process of keying in new settings that start at zero.

    Also, the change to P4 from P5 is the transition that the code is looking for to register an additional 1000mA (there is no subtraction, only addition). Except as you pointed out that a P6 is used to set levels below 5mA.

    I am sorry it is confusing for you. I have plans for making several programming videos. . .

    If you ask how to set any specific value, we will be happy to reply with the process. Here is an example to program 31mA on switch P3.

    PU4
    P3
    wait for the sweep to stop
    P1
    look to see the emitter is in a fast flash
    P3
    P2 (or P1)
    P3
    P2 (or P1)
    P3
    P1
    P2
    P0


    Here is the key that makes it easy! When going from P1 to "higher levels only" say it out loud to your self:
    for a P2 say "one"
    for a P3 say "ten"
    for a P4 say "one hundred"
    for a P5 say "one thousand"
    I never even look at the switch, I only look to see that the emitter is in a fast flash to know I got back to P1.

    So for the 31mA example, what you would hear me say is: " one, ten, twenty, thirty, one".




    Cheers
    Dave

  7. #7

    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    Dave,

    Thanks a lot. I didn't know the values were starting from zero so that helps a lot. I was thinking it was at that stock level and had to be reduced.

    Makes much more sense now.

    On another note I was out camping last night and used the Spy a lot. This light is so awesome. I can't wait to get my dragon fire attachment so I can use it to start campfires.


  8. #8

    Default Programming my new Spy

    Thanks also to Shine for the reply

  9. #9

    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    Got my light all programmed....love having a mode 2 saved with very low output for camping.

    I cannot seem to get the lock function to work though. I do a PU2 and the light flashes indicating that it is activated. I then switch the light off. Then go from off to level 6 and back off again very quickly. But the light still operates as usual

    I have tried going slow to level 6 then off fast and several other combinations. I have also done a PU3 to reset it just to see if that would help.

    Sorry to be a burden with questions, and help getting this straight it appreciated

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    You have to go fast ... really FAST !!!

    Seriously, try it fast.

    Off-to-Max-to-Off, fast fast fast
    ... is the archimedes peak

  11. #11

    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    Yes, fast..think of it as one motion with no pause at the top.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    Yep, even the slightest pause will disrupt it
    ... is the archimedes peak

  13. #13

    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    Thanks guys. I am doing it as fast as I think possible. Both using the dial on the palm of my hand and rolling it across my pants. Off to Max back to Off

    I can't imagine doing it any faster than I am doing it.

    I can deal with it not having the lock mode

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    I think there's a 99% chance that you can do it faster, and there is a slight hesitation that is throwing it off.

    When you do it successfully, even once, I think you'll catch on.

    Think smooth and fast, go go go !

    Using the index finger to run the switch up and back is likely the fastest technique....
    ... is the archimedes peak

  15. #15
    Flashaholic* stoli67's Avatar
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    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    And if you think this way is hard .... the old switching from off to position 1 three times was way harder!

  16. #16

    Default Programming my new Spy

    Thanks guys. I will try it using my index finger

  17. #17

    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    Still no luck. Please don't ban me from these pages...

    Does anyone know of a video? I must be missing something but it doesn't seem difficult so I just don't know.

    I was ok with just leaving it with no lock but it has come on in my pocket a few times yesterday and today. So now I am concerned if it might get accidentally on high in pocket or backpack

  18. #18

    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    Make sure it flashes just one time in pu2-power up 2 to enable the lock (you've probably figured out that part already). 2 flashes means off..

  19. #19
    Flashaholic* Christoph's Avatar
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    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    I have a new spy 005 ti and am trying to set level 6 to 2000ma and am not having much luck. After I choose the level do I have to go between 4 and 5 twice to enter 2000? The way I read these last couple of posts is that it starts from 0 after PU4 and selecting level 6. is that correct?
    Chris
    Chris

  20. #20
    Flashaholic* Christoph's Avatar
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    Default Re: Programming my new Spy

    It seems that I answered my own question I set it to 3300 and did a PU5 and it showed 3300ma cool Not going to leave it there I just wanted 2000ma
    Chris

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