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Thread: Owner’s Manual SPY Tri-V version 3 STFu MK4 V3 Driver (XP-L, XP-G2, XR-E)

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    Arrow Owner’s Manual SPY Tri-V version 3 STFu MK4 V3 Driver (XP-L, XP-G2, XR-E)

    Owner’s Manual SPY Tri-V version 3 STFu MK4 V3 Driver (XP-L, XP-G2, XR-E)




    Quick Notes
    high power XP-L flood emitter is square in shape
    three emitter flood, reflector and spot
    introduction of Vegas knob
    introduction of Vault battery cap








    Table of Contents:


    1) Quick start guide
    2) Changing batteries
    3) How to use the Tri-V
    4) Care and cleaning
    5) Programming & the back door
    6) Attachment rail
    7) Lanyard hole
    8) Holsters
    9) Run time chart
    10) Batteries
    11) Battery Spring, O-Rings, and Tritium Markers
    12) Technical Specifications
    13) Problems
    14) Warranty








    1) Quick start guide

    If your light came with batteries installed, you can simply turn it on by twisting the little round knob. Never look directly or let anybody look directly into such a powerful light - it gets very bright and can hurt your eyes.

    The SPY knob (switch) clicks into 7 discrete locations. They are positions zero through six. Looking at the knob from the front of the light (the LED end), the knob functions like a standard volume control, rotating the knob all the way in the CCW direction till it stops, is the “Off” position (zero position). Rotating the knob CW turns the light “ON” and so is the higher power direction. Switch setting 0 is off. Switch setting 1 is the lowest power setting, setting 2 is higher, and so it goes all the way to full power with setting 6. There is a mechanical stop at Off and a stop at full power, meaning you can not spin the knob all the way around 360 degrees.

    If you tried to turn the light on and nothing happened, then it is because the light does not have batteries in it. Please see section 2 on how to change batteries. If the knob will not turn it is due to the Vegas Knob lock, please see section three below. If your Tri-V is equipped with the optional Vegas Knob, you may need to unlock the knob in order to be able to turn it. To unlock it, pull out on the crown.

    2) Changing batteries

    If your light has batteries in it and you push on the tiny battery release pin with the pointy lead end of a wooden pencil, the battery cap will pop off! Please hold your finger over the cap as you push the pin so it does not go flying.

    If your light does not have batteries in it and you push on the tiny battery release pin with the pointy lead end of a wooden pencil, the battery cap will DO NOTHING. It will not come off. You have to pull it off while pushing on the pin at the same time. Please be careful not to drop the battery cap in this process. It helps to have three hands when doing this.

    After you have been using the light for some time, if you notice that power level 6 (high) and power level 5 are at the same brightness then it is time to replace the batteries. The SPY uses CR-123 lithium primary batteries. Cool Fall recommends that you use Surefire batteries in the SPY. Only use two new batteries in the SPY (two bats that have the same voltage level). Never use one old battery and one new battery; never never never. The SPY will operate on rechargeable RCR-123 batteries.

    When you are putting the batteries in the light please observe that they have polarity. On the battery that goes behind the LED, please put the “+” end in first. The other battery goes in with the “-” end in first. The battery cap must be pushed straight on. If it gets crooked it will stick and you have to take it off and start again. You can not hurt the light by putting the batteries in the wrong way. When changing batteries use power-up-0; the switch set to the off position by turning the knob fully counter-clockwise when facing the flat top of the knob (see Section 5 for more info).

    The SPY007 comes with two small beads which can be put on the lanyard and used to open the battery cap. To install a bead, first remove the lanyard. Then using dental floss, string the bead on the lanyard loop and slide it all the way up till it hits the plastic. Then using the floss again, string the lanyard back into the light. The bead will always be there when you want to pop the battery cap pin. Just place the bead right on top of the release pin and push.

    3) How to use the Tri-V


    The off position is called position zero and it is henceforth abbreviated in this document as “P0”. Rotating the knob CW takes you from position zero, one, two . . . all the way to position six. These positions are abbreviated P0, P1, P2, P3, P4, P5, and P6. There is a stop at Off (P0) and a stop at P6, meaning you cannot spin the knob all the way around 360 degrees.



    We can’t say what is the “best” way to hold the SPY, there are several common ways. Some like the knob down with your fingers wrapping around the light and others like the knob on top. Some use fingers to spin the knob and others use the thumb. In either case it only takes one hand to use a SPY.

    Using the Tri-V is simple, turn the knob and it lights up. As with all the SPY’s before it, the Tri-V is easy to use. There is nothing you have to learn or remember.

    The Tri-V flashlight intends to provide all the basic kinds of light patterns. By simply turning the knob you can light up a wide work area, throw a spot of light on a distant tree line or anything in between. The control knob is easy to use, even a 3 year old kid can pick it up and turn it on.

    The Tri-V puts out a nice flood light like a camping lantern. The color of the flood is warm like the color of a campfire. This light also puts out a narrow spotlight that you can use to illuminate objects that are an entire football field away from you. That spotlight is a bright and cold white light focused to pierce through the midnight night air. Lastly, it produces a normal flashlight beam for everyday use with a pure white color useful for a combination of power and color rendition.

    This SPY is more powerful than most EDC flashlights you can find of its size. It is micro sized, no bigger than a small cell phone. It can go with you in your pocket or purse, everywhere you go.

    The Tri-V is machined from aerospace grade titanium and hand built. It is very complex on the inside and incorporates leading edge technology. To this end this flashlight is a no holds barred ultra high end luxury item. This creation is the culmination of years of work. My team of venders (machinists and electronics engineers) are very good at what they do and I am proud of what we have created.

    The multiple power levels let you rapidly choose the amount of light you need for any given task. Picking a lower light level will prolong the battery life.

    Getting the light out and rapidly spinning or flicking the switch to full “ON” is not only fun but it is a very fast way to turn on the SPY. We claim that it is the “fastest light in the West”.



    As it comes to you it will be factory programmed for general use using primary batteries and moderate output levels safe for use around children. However there is a "Jekyll and Hyde" here too. The Tri-V is programmable, very programmable. You can make it into the light you want by selecting any set of emitters and power levels on any of the six switch positions. There are even multiple configurations to store and recall but more on that just a little later. If programmed by the user to its higher settings, the Tri-V is capable of pumping over 12W of power into the emitters. This should be thought of like you think of an exotic sports car. It is capable of big things but it must be understood and respected in order to be used to its fullest.

    If you choose to crank this light up to its higher power levels it will run at those higher power levels for a little over 30 seconds and then it starts slowly backing down to a 4W level. This keeps the light from getting too hot and it will save your batteries too. Understand, if you crank it up it will heat fast. I did not put much of a throttle limit in this "fast sports car" of a flashlight. If you want to pump the output up, you can, the software will compensate. It will automatically throttle back. If it did not’t you would be left a molten puddle of titanium and silicon. OK, that is a joke but I must stress that even when throttling back this light can get very hot to the touch.

    I know this light is not for the masses. I would not put this programming in an ordinary SPY, but here I am offering the techie CPFers a toy that can push harder than ever before. The software will allow you to set the emitters up to and past their normal manufacture limits. The XP-G can go to 1500mA, the XR-E can go to 2000mA and the MC-E can go to 2000mA. All these numbers are over reasonable limits given the tiny size of this light and its thermal mass or lack thereof. You will need rechargeable bats to get to some of these high levels of 2000mA and up. So this is like, "wow, look how bright this is . . . OK time to turn it back down".


    Battery consumption
    Power levels 5 & 6 will use up batteries quickly. Therefore, if you are on a long trip with only one set of batteries, use the lower power levels as much as possible to conserve battery power. The beauty here is the SPY makes changing power levels, as you use the light, as natural as breathing. This enables the user to almost sub concisely modulate the power as you pan through various scenes. The result is enjoying the mega high power that the SPY is capable of, when you need it, while on average using much less energy from the batteries than a typical flashlight would.




    Vegas Knob Crown


    If your 007 is equipped with the optional Vegas Knob, you may need to unlock the knob in order to be able to turn it. To unlock it, pull out on the crown.

    Please see this video for a complete overview of the knob's function.





    Vault Battery Cap


    If your 007 is equipped with the optional Vault Battery Cap then it is a twist off design and not the release pin discussed above. The video gives a very good overview of the use of the cap.






    4) Care and cleaning

    Titanium is a hard metal but not so hard that it can’t be scratched by just about any other metal. If you want your light to stay relatively new looking don’t ever put it in a pocket with any other object especially a hard plastic or metal object. Unlike hard anodized aluminum it will scratch easily. A simple and effective way to clean a titanium light is to use a wet paper towel with a little dish soap like Dawn. Wipe it softly with the grain of the machining marks. Dry it with a soft cotton cloth like a T-shirt. Rubbing it with a dry paper towel across the grain will leave micro scratch marks.

    Physically, the tri-V is not designed to be ultra rugged like the SPY 007 is. Some level of care is required. To that end I recommend putting it in an empty pocket or putting it in a case if it is on your belt or in a purse. The optically coated glass aspheric lens and the glass dome on the MC-E emitter are unprotected. Just like all exposed binocular and camera lenses without lens caps. If you throw your binocs in a back pack with change in the bottom, they are going to scratch. However, even with scratches they will still work but who wants that.

    5) Programming & the back door

    When you put batteries in the SPY and then snap the battery cap on, that will “power-up” the STFu processor on the converter board. We will refer to “powering-up” the light many times in this tutorial. So to power-up the converter, simply replace the battery cap. What position the switch is in when you power up the light, determines what mode the light will be put into. Normally you should keep the switch in the off position when changing the batteries. In this case the light works normally. This power-up-0 mode is the normal operating mode.

    The back door to the light lets you into its various features. Any power-up other than power-up-0 is going into the back door. These features are completely described below. However, none of these things are required reading, if all you want to do is use the light as is, please skip to the next section in this manual.

    Power Up Options

    • PU1 is to select the configuration. A total of 4 configuration slots can be used.
    • PU2 is the lock
    • PU3 is the calibrate
    • PU4 is the light engine programming
    • PU5 is the power level report
    • PU6 is the battery meter

    power-up-0 : normal startup

    This should be used for changing the batteries. When you perform a power-up-0 the LED will pulse one time and then shut off. That pulse tells you that the light is functioning and that the light has gone to sleep. However after a PU0 you should cycle the power on and off one time. That will put the light into deep sleep.


    power-up-1 :select the configuration (slot)

    The EEPROM memory holds 4 complete configurations of the matrix of data needed to run the light. The PU-1 function enables storing and recalling the "active" configuration into the four storage locations. The use for this is maybe that you have your light all set up the way you like it but you want to have another configuration for different batteries or a different use. The light is defaulted to configuration slot 1 when you get it. The first time you do a PU1 it copies slot 1 into the other 3 slots. This is a one time copy, it never happens again (this may have been performed during factory testing). Of course if you are ever wondering what is in any particular slot, just go there and then reset it with a PU3, then start over.

    As an example to change to slot 2, do a PU-1 and as the light is on steady move the knob to position 2. Now when you change the light brightness levels these changes will stay with slot 2. To put it back to configuration slot 1, just do a PU-1 and wait till it quits flashing and turn it off. That is it. Slots 1 through 4 are available for your use.

    There is now a rechargeable battery voltage monitor in slots 3 and 4. It watches the battery voltage during normal use and shuts the light off if the voltage reaches 3.25V. It is reset by simply turning the light off and back on again or by replacing the batteries. You should use slot 1 or 2 when using primary batteries and slot 3 or 4 when using rechargeable batteries. The voltage monitor is designed for an IMR cell technology cutoff of 3.25V, but you could use it for any ~4.2V rechargeable cell. The more current you pull from a battery the lower its voltage droops. Temporarily stop pulling current, and the voltage will recover slightly. As an example, if you are using the light at 1000mA and your nearly discharged (rechargeable) batteries reach 3.25V, the light will shut off. If you instantly need more light, simply turn it off and back on to a lower level and it will still put out light. If you cannot get to another set of batteries you can switch to slot 1 or 2 and keep going till the batteries are completely discharged.










    power-up-2 : enable and disable the lock mode

    The purpose of the lock mode is so that you can put the light in your pocket and not have to worry if the switch gets knocked to an on position. With the light locked it is safe and can not use the battery. The naturally sticky nature of the o-rings can grab the inside of your pants pocket or backpack and turn the light on. If you are going to EDC the light in your pocket, take one or both of the o-rings off! Having said that, if you prefer to use the o-rings anyway we added a lock feature to handle it.

    Before you can use the lock feature you have to enable it. The power-up-2 mode alternatively enables and disables the lock mode, by default from the factory, it is not enabled. It is also not enabled after a CAL (see power-up-3 below).

    To enable the lock mode, perform a power-up-2 - you should see the LED pulse one time. Then turn the light off. To then disable the lock mode perform the power-up-2 again; this time you should see the LED pulse twice.

    The tri-V2 comes with a new lock mechanism. I know what you're thinking, oh my gosh he changed it again! Well you're right, this time it is easier to use and I find it to be the best so far. Activating it is quite simply achieved by spinning the switch from off all the way to P6 and back to off again very quickly. I find it something that I never do in casual use of the flashlight. Therefore, as before, if you enable this feature with a PU2, you will have a simple and quick way of locking the flashlight so it will not come on in your pack while it is being jostled around. Additionally, when you lock the light it turns off immediately (unlike the Tri-V ver 1 that had the 20 second delay feature).


    power-up-3 : factory reset & calibration (CAL)

    Perform a power-up-3 if:
    -you have changed a power level and want to put the light back to its default settings
    -your light is acting strangely
    -you have modded the light and put in a new LED
    -you do not remember what settings are in the slot you are using


    When you perform a power-up-3, the LED starts a quick up and down sweeping/pulsing for 10 seconds. This is just to let you know that it is about to run the CAL. After 10 seconds, it starts seeking the levels. It slowly records information as it converges on each power level. Once it completes position 6 it will start the quick up and down sweeping again for 5 seconds and then come on to what you have programmed to position 3.

    When the CAL slowly sweeps through the power levels it records the Vf data and rates for your emitter. This calibration takes a couple minutes and requires new or strong batteries ( batteries that can run the light to the full power ). Remember, when the calibration is finished the light will sweep a few times and then come on to P3. During a calibration the light does not read the switch position. So if you want to stop it you will have to pull the battery cap off. If you stop it you will have to run it again before you use the light.

    This video shows the Tri-V ver 1 but it is still a good depiction of running the Cal (PU3).



    power-up-4 : programming

    see Light Engine Programming

    power-up-5 : power level report


    power-up-6 : battery level indicator

    This meter reads the average voltage of the two batteries. It flashes out three significant digits. So if the voltage is 3.14V It will flash three times then pause then flash one time then pause then flash four times. If one of the digits is a zero, it flashes a very short strobe burst for that digit.





    ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ******


    Light Engine Programming

    If you choose to program the Tri-V you will need to read the following text and view the videos. Of course it is not necessary to ever change the power levels if you are happy with the default factory configuration. But having said that I know most of you will want to play. This really is the point of the Tri-V, it will morph into the light you need, not the one I think you need.

    When you make changes to the settings on the Tri-V, there is a progression that you will follow. There are flashes from the LEDs to let you know you are moving through the stages. First you choose the knob position you want to modify, then you select the emitter(s) you want on that position, then you again choose the knob position you want to modify, and select the power level you want.

    The power-up-4, abbreviated as “PU4”, lets you select the emitter(s) you want on and input the current they will run at. It does this in two stages. The first stage is the “emitter stage” and the second stage is the “power stage”. The user will see the transition between the two stages. It is denoted by a quick bright flash of the reflector called the “stage transition flash”.

    Let’s say you want to associate a knob position with a different emitter than it is currently set to. In this case you will have to enter the emitter stage and the power stage. If however, you only want to change the current on one of the positions, you can skip over the emitter stage and go right to the power stage.

    As you enter each stage I say the three emitters are spinning but really they are simply lighting up one after another in a way that makes them look like the light is chasing around in a circle. They do this for 10 seconds and it is your cue to set the knob position. As the LED’s are spinning the computer is not looking at the switch so it does not matter what positions you move the knob through. It only matters what position the knob is in when at the end of the 10 seconds when the LED’s stop spinning.

    To break this down into steps I created this list but you might read it and watch the video together to aid in understanding it. These are the programming steps for setting emitters and power levels:
    1. power-up-4 (you are now in the emitter stage)
    2. while lights are spinning, select knob position (in the video I chose position 2)
    3. toggle knob back and forth till desired emitter combination is on
    4. set knob to the off position, this starts the lights spinning again (before the light stops spinning you can go back to step two)
    5. wait for the “stage transition flash” (you are now in the power stage)
    6. while lights are spinning, select knob position to modify (in the video I chose position 2)
    7. set the knob to home position P1 (the flood will be flashing to let you know you are there)
    8. key in the sequence to set the power level (see definitions below, in the video I set it at 220mA)
    9. set knob to the off position P0
    10. light will spin for 10 seconds and end (before the light stops spinning you can go back to step six)
    11. the light will perform a calibration for the settings you modified (this takes several seconds)
    12. the light is now ready for use **

    ** if the light can not be turned on, perform a power-up-0, all the programming will be retained.

    Knob/Switch position definitions to key in power levels (F=flood, R=reflector, A=asphere):
    • knob position 0 = off
    • knob position 1 = home (emitter is fast flashing)
    • knob position 2 = add 1mA to total
    • knob position 3 = add 10mA to total
    • knob position 4 = add 100mA to total
    • knob position 5 = add 1000mA to total
    • knob position 6 = start dimming to values less than 5mA




    The example in the video below is to change the emitter and power for position 2. It sets the flood emitter at 220mA.





    If you want to set the power to less than 5mA you MUST use the knob position 6 to do it (keying in less than 5mA will not work). When you are done with step 7 above, turn the knob directly to position 6 and just leave it there (you do not click it back and forth as you do with the lower positions). Simply stay on position 6 and watch as it automatically cals the power to 5mA and then starts getting dimmer and dimmer. It takes a while but when the light output is what you want, turn the knob off.

    You can set multiple switch positions with a single power-up-4 by continually selecting various non zero switch positions before the spinning stops.

    What would happen if you did the (PU4) but then quickly turned to P0. If you did this nothing would be changed in the light’s configuration. What you would see and do if you tried it is the following. Do a PU4 and see that the three LED’s are spinning, before they stop spinning, turn the knob to P0. The emitters will still spin for the remainder of the 10 seconds. Then you see the "stage transition flash", then you watch the emitters spin for another 10 seconds, then you see the spot pulse four times.

    Before you start programming, plan out in your head what you want to accomplish. The Tri-V programming method does not show you what you get till after it is done. You put in mA values and it cals those targets. So it may be a good idea to record on paper what you want to do in advance of actually doing the programming.

    In the code stored in the Tri-V are tables of various values. The first table lists what the default current and emitter will be if you do a factory calibration (Power Up 3). See the old sticky thread in the cool fall forum on the 007 manual for some insights. The second table will list the programming limits for each emitter (as an example you can only push the XP-G to 1500 mA).


    Default factory Tri-V version 2 calibration values: These default power levels are kid friendly and primary battery friendly.

    F=flood
    R=reflector
    S=spot

    P1 is F @ 5 mA
    P2 is F&R @ 50 mA
    P3 is F&R @ 200 mA
    P4 is F&R @ 1000 mA
    P5 is F @ 800 mA
    P6 is S @ 1000 mA

    programming limit:
    flood limit = 1700 ;
    reflector limit = 1500 ;
    spot limit = 1800 ;
    flood & reflector limit = 2000 ;
    flood & spot or reflector & spot limit = 1500 ;
    all limit = 2200 ;


    Duty cycle limits. This is the upper limit for running at 100% duty cycle. Any programmed value beyond these limits will only run for 30-40 seconds before it is automatically pulled back to these values.

    100% duty cycle limit:
    flood limit = 800 ;
    reflector limit = 1000 ;
    spot limit = 1000 ;
    flood & reflector or flood & spot or reflector & spot limit = 1250 ;
    all three emitters limit = 1300 ;


    Once any emitter is pulled back to these limits it will be held there till you turn the light off. This gets a little detailed and I will try to explain as best I can. Consider this scenario. You program the spot to run at 1800mA and turn it on. It will run at 1800 for 45 seconds then it will slowly cut back over the next 15 seconds to 1000mA and stay there till you switch to another emitter or turn the light off. If you do switch to another emitter but do not turn the light off, it will instantly go to its programmed setting but will start instantly cutting back to its 100%DCL. If you quickly turn the light off and back to the spot, the entire sequence will start over. So understand if you turn the light off it has no memory to tell it that it may already be hot! Beware of this and react accordingly. Yes the light has it's own over heating cutback protection but I would not want to push this.

    The fundamental issue is to manage all this extreme heating in this insanely small thermal mass. Those power users of you out there that want to crank the light beyond the factory configuration, please do so, but keep the light in your hand and learn how quick it heats up on various settings and on the various emitters. And react accordingly.

    6) Attachment rail

    The bottom of every 007 will sport a miniature Picatinny type rail. It is useful for mounting the 007 and for adding attachments to the 007. There will be available, as an accessory, a generic clip/bolt on attachment for the rail.

    Attachments available:

    - General Purpose Rail Adapter


    - Mag-Mount Magnetic Base (attaches to the GP Rail Adapter)


    Attachments mentioned to date:*
    - Light stand
    - Pen holder “pen by Rothrandir”
    - Bottle opener
    - Knob guard
    - Pocket clip
    *Note: Attachments are not yet available

    7) Lanyard hole


    The concept is for this lanyard to aid in handling the light when it is in your hand. While holding the light and the strap at the same time you reduce the likelihood of dropping it. If you carry the light in a pocket the lanyard will last for at least a year then it may need to be replaced. If it does not look frayed, it is still very strong. When it starts to fray, replace it.

    To put the lanyard on the SPY, you need 18” (40cm) dental floss. Put the floss through the hole in the light and then through the loop on the lanyard and then back through the hole in the light. Grab both ends of the floss in one hand and the big end of the lanyard in the other hand. Pull tight so that the lanyard loop pulls into a tight point. With the lanyard loop like this it will slide through the hole in the light with almost no effort. Make sure the lanyard loop is aligned properly to fit through the rectangular hole in the light; it only goes in one way. If you get it right it will not hurt the small loop end on the lanyard at all. To finish, thread the big end of the lanyard through the small end.

    The supplied lanyard was designed to be minimalistic in your hand and your pocket. Besides the stock lanyard that is included with the SPY 007, there are many other options available, including buying pre-made lanyards from online stores or CandlePowerForums builders, or making your own.

    If you want to tether the light around your neck, you are going to have to use a split ring. My recommendation is to use a small split ring and then put the para-cord right through the split ring.







    8) Holsters


    If you are going to use a holster make sure it is fixed to your belt in a way that it can not come off. Tether the light to your belt if need be.

    The following are some options for holsters:
    -RipOff's Holsters : www.ripoffs.com - The CO-192 or BL-192 for Belt loop is a perfect fit.


    9) Run time chart


    CandlePowerForums member chevrofreak’s runtime plots for the SPY 005 (Luxeon III LED). It should be close to what the 007 would give for runtimes.





    10) Batteries


    The default configuration of the Tri-V will be to run on primary batteries. It is set right out of the box so to speak with power levels that are easily within the capabilities of primary batteries and all levels can run at a 100% duty cycle. I recommend you use only Surefire batteries. Many people will be happy with using the light just as it is. I myself as you know are a big proponent of primary batteries in the spy because it runs so very long on a set and they are convenient.

    Now, having said all that, the light can only run at its highest levels if you put a set of rechargeable batteries in it and reprogram it. It is a spectacle to see the tiny Tri-V pumping out 12W of power even if it is for just 30 seconds. It really fills a room with light. Just how high the light can go on primaries it yet to be determined. I think we will have to work on that collectively.

    AW IMR 16340's are lithium rechargeable 123 that use manganese chemistry. They have less capacity, but have a max discharge of 8C (which is over 4 amps!).

    11) Battery Spring, O-Rings, and Tritium Markers
    Battery Spring

    To replace the battery spring if it falls out, put the bottom half (end closest to the release pin opening) in first by twisting the spring in a counter-clockwise direction.






    O-rings

    Knob o-rings: The o-rings are very easy to take off with a wooden toothpick, just dig right under the o-ring and pry it up so you can roll it off. Putting them on is easy with the following trick. Wrap several inches of thread or dental floss around the outer groove to fill it up. Then put the first o-ring right on top of it. It will then be easy for the o-ring to be pushed/rolled over to the inner groove because it can’t fall deep into the first groove. Take the thread off and put the next o-ring in the outer groove.

    O-ring sizes:
    Knob - Size 011, 5/16” ID and 1/16” diameter
    Tailcap - Size 020, 1” English Size

    Tritium

    There is one slot where tritium marker can be epoxied in the Tri-V. The size of the marker should be 5mm x 1.5mm. Use a strong epoxy to glue the vials in - the most-used is Norland Optical Adhesive No.61, available from Edmund Optics, and occasionally available in smaller portions on CandlePowerForums. It’s totally clear, very durable, and extremely strong. Another method used is nail polish - nail polish remover a.k.a. pure acetone will dissolve the nail polish and it will wipe right out, if there is anything left. Or, simply use superglue. Whatever the case, be cautious with tritium and take any measure you can in making it securely adhered to the SPY Tri-V.

    12) Technical Specifications


    The Tri-V is about 0.2” thicker than the standard 007. The other two dimensions are mostly unchanged. It weighs 158g. It is made from 6Al4V titanium. It uses two CR-123 lithium batteries or any RCR-123 rechargeable battery. The flood emitter is a Cree MC-E of a warm ~3000K. The reflector emitter is a Cree XP-G. The aspheric emitter is a Cree XR-E. The power output range of this STFu MK-II [Tri-V2 uses STFu MK4] converter board is in excess of 30,000 to 1. It can go up to 3A (for short intervals) and down to less than one tenth of a mA. At that point it looks so dim that it is hard to see if it is on.

    Material: 6Al-4V Titanium
    Weight: 158g w/ batteries
    Dimensions: Approx. 3.05” by 1.55” by 1.15”
    Batteries: Primary (3v) CR123A Lithiums, Lithium-Ion (3.0-4.2v) RCR123
    LED: 2x XP-G and XR-E
    Reflector: McR12R
    Case: water resistant only, do not submerge

    13) Problems


    First and foremost, if your light acts up you need to replace the batteries with two brand new primary lithium batteries - preferably Surefire. Secondly, execute the CAL sequence (see power-up-3 in the programming section). Even if you did not think you changed the power levels (it can happen by accident). Thirdly, make sure there is no moisture inside the light. To do this open the light and set it in a warm place for 12 hours. A good place is on top of your computer monitor. If these steps do not remedy the problem please contact Cool Fall Inc.

    14) Warranty


    The Tri-V will have a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser of the light. There are a few exceptions due to abuse and leaking batteries. My intention is for the purchaser to enjoy the Tri-V and appreciate what went into its creation. If you like it, don’t hesitate to EDC it, as the SPY is engineered to last.
    Also, as was with the 005/007 the Tri-V is NOT intrinsically designed to be modded.


    this link is to some pictures of the Tri-V2 and some of the design changes:
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...V2-Information


    Last edited by Data; 06-21-2016 at 11:08 AM. Reason: live document

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