Neutral tinted LED lightbar/cube

badtziscool

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Oct 13, 2006
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Good morning all.

I would like to add additional led lighting to my truck. I know there are a massive amount of led light bars/cubes etc available, but they all seem to be of a cool tint. Are there any LED light bar/cube manufacturers that uses neutral or warm tinted leds? Or maybe even a kit that lets you use your own leds?



Thanks!
 

-Virgil-

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No, unfortunately not. The automotive lighting industry is hypnotically and exclusively fascinated with blue light, to a ridiculous degree. I hope (without much hope) this childish obsession will eventually give way to some more mature, wholistic thinking, but the odds aren't good.
 

badtziscool

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That's a shame. I really want to put some additional lighting on the truck for camping and off roading, but I just do not like the cool tint for this purpose. It fatigues the eyes quicker and reduces depth perception. I guess I could go with HID or halogen, but they're too bulky for what I'm thinking of.


Oh well. Thanks for the input.
 

Sadden

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The lowest ones i can think of is the BajaDesigns coming in around 5000k. They are well built.
 

-Virgil-

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CCT (color temperature, "cool" vs. "warm" light) misses the point. What's actually at work, mostly, is SPD (Spectral Power Distribution) and its resultant CRI (Color Rendering Index). HIDs and all the LEDs presently in automotive lighting use have an SPD with an excess of blue and deficits in other colors, resulting in poor CRI. That's not a big problem in on-road driving, but when you have to be able to tell various shades of brown, beige and gray apart so you can steer around rocks and ruts off the road, color rendering really matters.

It's a shame, because there are LEDs that produce a very neutrally white (not brown/orange/blue/yellow/pink/green/purple/whatever) light of 3000K with CRI over 90. They're not used in car lights, though. :-(
 

Sadden

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CCT (color temperature, "cool" vs. "warm" light) misses the point. What's actually at work, mostly, is SPD (Spectral Power Distribution) and its resultant CRI (Color Rendering Index).
there are LEDs that produce a very neutrally white (not brown/orange/blue/yellow/pink/green/purple/whatever) light of 3000K with CRI over 90. They're not used in car lights, though. :-(

Yeah there some that would make excellent driving lights... such a shame. One day. Even the JWSpeaker product range is higher than I would like, i dont know how the CRI on those are though..
 
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fastgun

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Blue light is to blame for disturbed circadian rhythms in my people. So at least you may be staying awake better with those irritating lights.
Is that a "for" or an "against"?
 

lonesouth

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Fast forward 4.5 years. I saw there is an Australian company making a 4000k light bar, https://ultra-vision.com.au/, but they are asking $1,497au for it. I know that the truck bros want the brightest, most blinding, blue/white garbage available, but I'm looking to put this on a UTV to use around my property fixing/building in low light where actually seeing what I'm doing can be important.

Baja Designs is even more at $1,599USD. https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/OnX6-Racer-Edition-High-Speed-Spot-LED-Light-Bars.asp

Are there any less expensive alternatives, something less than $400?
 

John_Galt

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Diode Dynamics SS1/SS3/SS5 "Sport" and "Pro" pods come in two LED color temps, a 6000k white behind their clear optic, and a 4000k white behind their selective yellow optic. They do not offer the neutral white color LEDs as a direct option, however you can buy the yellow lens pod and then install a separately purchased clear optic. The "Max" model uses only an Osram culpm1.tg LED, so there is no neutral white option for the max output SS3 pod. The Sport and Pro models use Lumileds Luxeon Z-ES chips and Cree XPL-HI's, respectively.

In bar format MtnLiteBar (offshoot of MtnElectronics) offers nichia 219Bs in 70 and 80CRI ratings at a 4000k color temperature.
 

lonesouth

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Well, I ordered a couple of Nilight pods(6 LEDS each) with the intent to replace the emitters for 4000k, First need to see what the driver is putting out. If it works well, I'll tackle a light bar.
 
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