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Thread: Brighter 1156?

  1. #31

    Default Re: Brighter 1156?

    Quote Originally Posted by Inspector71 View Post
    I have a John Deere 318 garden tractor which utilizes three 1156 bulbs for headlights.
    Try these and these. You need three bulbs anyway, and this way you can figure out which design works best with your particular lamps.

  2. #32

    Default Re: Brighter 1156?

    I was actually looking at the Phillips Bright White Vision on Amazon based on earlier discussions in this thread. I just wondered what the light output was directly in front of the bulb since the reflector is not great.

  3. #33

    Default Re: Brighter 1156?

    There is no 1156 (or other filament bulb) that puts much of any useful light straight forward -- in order for forward light to be useable, it has to be magnified and focused by fresnel optics, which your lenses don't have. That said, the linked Philips bulb puts out more forward light than the only other legitimate 1156 LED bulb (which is the linked Sylvania).

  4. #34

    Default Re: Brighter 1156?

    be careful with higher wattage inc\halogen bulbs, warped\melted taillights are real thing, seen it happen more than once. some cars lights have enough interior volume to dissipate heat somewhat, others do not.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Brighter 1156?

    That's a problem with the silly 50w halogen "upgrades" that are out there. The 35w 796 doesn't cause these problems, because they're only 7w more than a stock 1156 and the reversing lamps are not used for prolonged periods of time.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Brighter 1156?

    Will a 3497 work ?

  7. #37

    Default Re: Brighter 1156?

    A 3497 will make a 40% improvement over an 1156. A 796 will make a 194% improvement over an 1156.

  8. #38
    Flashaholic*
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Marblemount, WA, USA
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    Default Re: Brighter 1156?

    Dredging up this old thread to add a reminder about voltage drop and wimpy factory wiring. As mentioned earlier in the thread, I put 796 bulbs into the new backup light fixtures of my 1986 F250, then I installed a pair of the oval LED backups Virgil recommended, into the rear bumper. Nice setup.

    I often want a work light in back, or hooking up a trailer, unloading the truck, etc. I finally got around to installing a manual switch. I went brute force simple: From a stout fuse holder at the battery, I ran #10 (60 strand type SIS "hinge" wire, but that's the sort of scraps that turn up in my industry) under the cab and up to a push-pull switch with red indicator mounted on the gear shift, then on to the backup lights on the rear of the truck. BTW, in addition to chassis ground at the back, there's a #12 running ground going up front to the battery. I found that if I turn the truck on and hit reverse, I get backup lights, but switching on the manual switch makes a very significant improvement.

    I haven't put a volt meter on the bulbs, but I'd guess more than a volt difference. You really see the lights get brighter with that manual switch. This is just a good reminder that factory wiring is usually barely adequate on its best day, so you need to beef things up a bit to get full performance from your bulbs.

    BTW, that same truck has H4 headlights, standard wattage but premium Xtreme Vision bulbs. Adding a HD wiring harness and relays visibly improved lighting output there, too.
    There are two kinds of light - the glow that illumines, and the glare that obscures. ~James Thurber

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