Couple of questions about 6P and dropin

1. This gap between the head and body, wouldn't normally be there with the standard Surefure dropin, this is with a Malkoff dropin, is this ok to leave as it is? Do I need to do something to make sure it's weatherproof? Any advice, please?



2. The distance between the dropin head/bezel and the lens, is there any way to reduce this distance?

No, you're ok. Lots of people find it cosmetically annoying, but the o ring will keep you dry, P

Thanks for your reply P.

Does this mean then that there is more maintenance required? Ie, remove the head and extra cleaning if say I i drop the flashlight into sand, and it's been raining?

Weatherproofing is fine. That gap is only an aesthetic thing. Some members file their Malkoff drop-ins to reduce the gap. A complete bore through (no battery stop) is the only way to eliminate the gap completely. Of course you would have to wrap your drop-in w/ aluminum or copper tape for body contact.

Its normal Dr, depends on shape of base/body of the drop in to how snug/low down it seats. As P said, nothing is compromised(water resistance), just a gap!. Some fill the gap in with an O ring (red can look cool on a black 6p like vinh shows on his shop). IIRC vinh has changed the drop in shell so it now sets better over older copper shells.

Few of mine are like that, does not bother me at all, some it does

The cryos fits past and covers any gap, here you can see a c2 with gap due to the copper shell shape


Here is a 6p with a p60vn quad mule in, no gap due to the later design tweak

Sorted, thanks guy

If I file the Malkoff down slightly, there shouldn't be any issues?

flashlight chronic said:

Weatherproofing is fine. That gap is only an aesthetic thing. Some members file their Malkoff drop-ins to reduce the gap. A complete bore through (no battery stop) is the only way to eliminate the gap completely. Of course you would have to wrap your drop-in w/ aluminum or copper tape for body contact.

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True. For submersion, the o-ring must be thick enough for a sufficiently tight fit. I have 2 6ps with stock o-rings that were just a tad too thin for some reason and that gap allowed water in. With no gap, they were fine, but I have changed the o-rings to be safe.

scs said:

True. For submersion, the o-ring must be thick enough for a sufficiently tight fit. I have 2 6ps with stock o-rings that were just a tad too thin for some reason and that gap allowed water in. With no gap, they were fine, but I have changed the o-rings to be safe.

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When you changed the O-rings, did you get standard ones or uprated ones?

I'm gonna give it a go at sanding down the height of the Malkoff, with wet and dry sandpaper.

Look inside the body/neck and look at drop in shape, the widest part where it makes contact(engineers blue would help here). Gentle sand the catching section around till slips in. Will it fit fine without any extra spring at the base? so drop in alone without larger spring that can be fitted to base. Sometimes trimming this spring by a couple of rings helps out as well. Just to make sure before you sand it, it is actually the body of the drop in that is the issue.

Ok, you're gonna have to explain that entirely again please, in a different way cos you lost me straight away... :thinking:

I don't have engineer's blue, what else can I use?

This is as far as the module goes down when I apply pressure, and that space seems to correlate with the gap between the head and body?

Right, sanding looks like the best option from that pic. The idea with engineers blue was to colour the body, fit and rotate, where it rubs off you know to sand down. Could use a marker maybe.............only a thought .

flashlight chronic said:

Weatherproofing is fine. That gap is only an aesthetic thing. Some members file their Malkoff drop-ins to reduce the gap. A complete bore through (no battery stop) is the only way to eliminate the gap completely. Of course you would have to wrap your drop-in w/ aluminum or copper tape for body contact.

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That battery stop seems to be the thing that is cause, thank you.

You're welcome. Great looking Fivemega 6P by the way!

ven said:

Right, sanding looks like the best option from that pic. The idea with engineers blue was to colour the body, fit and rotate, where it rubs off you know to sand down. Could use a marker maybe.............only a thought .

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It's either sand the battery stop out from the body of the 6P, or sand down the brass from the module at the spring side. If I sand down the module from the spring side, then it might not fit properly if I ever decide to use the module in a Malkoff again, with the retainer ring?

flashlight chronic said:

You're welcome. Great looking Fivemega 6P by the way!

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I'm really happy with it. This specific one is actually allocated for a Tana Mule coming soon, but I have another 6P that I want to use this Malkoff module in.

If you modify this module to fit perfectly in this host, it's unlikely that another host will be exactly the same. For maximum compatibility, both the drop-in and host should be left as they are now

It's a tool, not a piece of art.

Grizzman said:

If you modify this module to fit perfectly in this host, it's unlikely that another host will be exactly the same. For maximum compatibility, both the drop-in and host should be left as they are now

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Understood.

Grizzman said:

It's a tool, not a piece of art.

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My OCD doesn't understand that

Grizzman said:

If you modify this module to fit perfectly in this host, it's unlikely that another host will be exactly the same. For maximum compatibility, both the drop-in and host should be left as they are now

It's a tool, not a piece of art.

Click to expand...

Unless one is convinced that they will not ever be swapping / replacing these (modular) parts, I would tend to agree ....

I have a Leef host that a prior owner had unfortunately modified by sanding out the dropin area, and now often find to have contact problems

OK hint taken, will leave everything as it is. Will just have to tell my OCD to shut up.