The Fenix ARE-C1+ and ARE-C2+, along with the aforementioned Nitecore D4 have an AC cord only with the AC-DC transforming performed internal to the charger. They all also have a 12v DC input for using a car power outlet. While on the subject, what might be the consensus for USB power supplies? My ARE-1X has an input rating of 5v DC, 1.5 A maximum. I suspect that means I can't use a 2.1A USB charger???
This is part of the reason behind my inquiring about AC corded chargers. It would be one less thing to try to not mess up.
Thanks for the discussion.
I run the gamut, with a NC i4 v.2 having a 120vac cord, lots of Xtar chargers, an Opus charger and a Maha C9000 having 12vdc wall warts, then my gaggle of 5v USB chargers and an Apple 12w OEM brick. I do have a LaCrosse that's got a 3v input, but I have a 12vdc cigarette adapter for it.
The above can all run off of the car's cigarette socket, or a 12vdc solar panel, making them good for 12vdc mother batteries in an emergency.
The USB chargers are mainly for using with my smaller 5vdc USB folding solar panel that I keep for the zombie apocalypse, or just a hurricane power outage. I do regularly use a little USB Xtar XP-1 Hummingbird for charging up my smaller cells off of the PC, since it's always on and right here. Nothing really to muck with.
Nowadays, except for me, most people have smartphones that come supplied with a good 2.1A/2.4A wall wart, so using something like an Xtar VP4, isn't as problematic as it might have been 3 years ago, when 2.1A bricks weren't all that commonplace.
I have 12vdc AGM/SLA batteries here for charging up the smaller stuff, I have 5v USB power banks, for doing the same and being perhaps more portable, but even most new cars come with USB ports that can do 2A, so times are changing.
Chris