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Thread: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

  1. #421
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Here's what it looks like. Note: it is not as bright as the picture shows, I believe my camera was over-compensating for the low light picture. A bit of light shines through the other side of the switch too, but not as much. I'm guessing the rubber is thin enough that it's letting some light through.


  2. #422
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Here's a better picture (the leakage brightness is still exaggerated)


  3. #423

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    I couldn't say what is actually happening there but there is no way I could personally live with that. I'd be exchanging that quickly.
    Quote Originally Posted by likethevegetable View Post
    Here's a better picture (the leakage brightness is still exaggerated)


  4. #424

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    one5 says the same, this seems like a molding problem with the switch boots.
    Hopefully it's a problem with pigments and not with the molding fill out.
    I'm ordering an H53c as a gift shortly, I'll be looking for this issue.
    The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.

  5. #425

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    If there's missing material in the boot, incomplete mold fill out, you should be able to feel it with some careful probing, maybe with a cut off toothpick - to dull it. Feel the pressure resistance in the dark areas and compare to the physical resistance when pushing into the illuminated areas.
    The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.

  6. #426
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by eh4 View Post
    If there's missing material in the boot, incomplete mold fill out, you should be able to feel it with some careful probing, maybe with a cut off toothpick - to dull it. Feel the pressure resistance in the dark areas and compare to the physical resistance when pushing into the illuminated areas.
    Did exactly that - it was difficult to compare without some psychological bias, but I do believe the brighter side deforms slightly more with equal pressure.

    I've contacted ZL to see what they say. Provided they offer a RMA, I might wait to employ it. It might be informative to use this light regularly and see if the boot fails - although I doubt it would happen soon since the "more thin and/or less pigmented" areas probably won't see a lot of mechanical stress as I'm not activating the button with my fingernail or anything like that.

    I'm in Canada and not sure how much the duties will cost - does anyone have any experience with RMA's from Canada? Looks like a small package with tracking and insurance would be $17CAD, about 20% of what I paid.

    I have an H600Fc Mk IV on pre-order - if I love the frosted glass, you think ZL would swap out my lense too if I send it in for the boot replacement? :P

  7. #427

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    I'll bet that they would swap the glass for you if you ask nice.
    One thing to consider is that the frosted glass makes the H52Fc (that's what I can compare with) into a pretty short range light, the H53c numbers look comparable.
    I've given away my H52Fc to a family member, and switched over to H600Fw, and in comparison the H600Fw manages to work for me as an all purpose edc light due to the larger reflector and the high modes, even though I mostly use L1 and M1, which are also long duration modes with the H52 and H53 models.
    If you switch your H53c to floody, it's going to become something like a very handy oven range light, maybe 30 feet of comfortable viewing with decent battery life (50+ lumens for 8.5 hours).

    On the other hand, I've been trying to convert them over to H600Fw ever since I upgraded to it, but they love the H52Fc and don't want the added bulk and new battery chemistry even for the greater range and duration it offers.
    I'm torn myself, I am spoiled with the floody lens and don't miss the blob of throw, but with such limited power it would be nice to have more range.
    When i get one for myself I think it's going to have to get the removable DC film fix, so that even if I never need the throw, it's already available by pulling the film.
    Last edited by eh4; 12-11-2017 at 11:05 AM.
    The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.

  8. #428
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    eh4: I was thinking the same thing. When I get my hands on the H600Fc (that will be a good day), I was planning on doing some tests to see the approximate lumens of the H600Fc that match the throw of the H53c. Different emitter and reflector size aside, I think it would be a reasonable test. I've messed around DC-fix film, scotch tape, and latex gloves on my H53c and found it was a big set back for throw, so perhaps you're right in that a frosted AA will be too weak for my needs. I'll probably demote my H53c from the primary hiking/camping headlamp job and use it mainly as an off head band EDC and loaner headlamp for my lady.

  9. #429
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Zebralight responded:
    "All switch covers leak light somewhat, especially in thin/flexible area. The 'black' silicone is actually a mix of transparent silicone with some black pigment."

  10. #430

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Interesting, so the pigment mix error is their answer.
    That would fit with the way the light bends around the rim, my concern was that a poorly filled out molding might do the same... failure to fill the mold would be a much bigger fail than a poorly mixed pigment, and I would certainly give them the benefit of the doubt there, that the silicone would be properly shaped if not uniformly pigmented.
    The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.

  11. #431

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    The H53w I've received today doesn' leak brightness through the switch rubber

  12. #432
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by anthon87 View Post
    The H53w I've received today doesn' leak brightness through the switch rubber
    Did you put it on high in a dark room and press it against something to block the light coming out of the lens? Most of my Zebralight's show a bit of light through their switch boots if you look hard for it. It is not a problem imo and should not be worried about unless there is an actual hole in the switch boot.

  13. #433

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by likethevegetable View Post
    I noticed the other day that there was a bit of light poking through the rubber button my H53c with the light on high - anyone else notice that? I'm not worried, just an observation.
    Oh, great. Ditto on the H53w, too. If this compromises the waterproof integrity of the lamp, I'm going to be out ANOTHER $5.50 postage. To date, my ZL reduced price to $59.00 has cost me $64.50. Now shooting for $70.00.
    Last edited by Genzod; 12-28-2017 at 05:42 PM.

  14. #434

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    I'd never noticed it, but on H1 my H600w actually leaks a tiny bit of light from two spots on the edge of the switch boot, through the boot, not around it... looks like a little bit of variance in the pigment.
    This is a light that's been dunked casually and repeatedly, with the switch operated while wet and while submerged without incident.
    The brighter the light, the darker the shadow.

  15. #435
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by Genzod View Post
    Oh, great. Ditto on the H53w, too. If this compromises the waterproof integrity of the lamp, I'm going to be out ANOTHER $5.50 postage. To date, my ZL reduced price to $59.00 has cost me $64.50. Now shooting for $70.00.

    Zebralight mentioned that this is a common occurrence due to a lack of pigmentation. I don't think the waterproofing is compromised on mine, and I believe I have a pretty extreme case of light poking through. Only time will tell though..

  16. #436

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by Genzod View Post
    Oh, great. Ditto on the H53w, too. If this compromises the waterproof integrity of the lamp, I'm going to be out ANOTHER $5.50 postage. To date, my ZL reduced price to $59.00 has cost me $64.50. Now shooting for $70.00.
    Did you happen to purchase the light with Paypal? Paypal will reimburse you the return shipping fee if you need to do a return. Just google "Paypal refund return shipping". I just did it with a Fenix light that I bought and then returned.

    What this also means...is that if someone can't decide on a h53c or h53w (like me), they can buy both, and then return the one they don't want. Paypal will then reimburse you the return shipping! So it would be free shipping both ways (from zebralight and return to zebralight).

  17. #437

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Is anybody else getting the same "flashing" problems that user gunga was having? ->

    I've reverse mapped the levels so that L1, L2 (long press) are high and H1, H2 (quick press) are low. I kept medium the same.

    This, in theory, should allow me to do a quick press to get low levels (and not kill my night vision) and do a long press for high.

    Holding the button starts on high and scrolls down to low.

    Two quick presses should allow me to get to medium with no preflash. Well. It doesn't. When I do two quick presses, I get low, a brief preflash to high, before settling in to medium. So in theory I could have 0.08 lumens, a brief 475 lumen flash before settling into 7 lumens.

    This is garbage.
    Note that single click does a preflash to "L" level before going to "H". So reversing low and high (like I tried to do) does not work well.
    I just wanted to confirm if everyone is experiencing this or if it is a one-off error/bug on gunga's light. I don't see how zebralight could accept such "flashing" when a single or double click should go straight to the desired mode without any kind of other "flashing" of some other light level?


    EDIT: And.....does this flashing happen in G5 for you too genzod? Like, in G5, if you double click to M, does it preflash some other light level first?
    Last edited by gogdog; 12-31-2017 at 10:34 AM.

  18. #438

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by gogdog View Post
    Did you happen to purchase the light with Paypal? Paypal will reimburse you the return shipping fee if you need to do a return. Just google "Paypal refund return shipping". I just did it with a Fenix light that I bought and then returned.

    What this also means...is that if someone can't decide on a h53c or h53w (like me), they can buy both, and then return the one they don't want. Paypal will then reimburse you the return shipping! So it would be free shipping both ways (from zebralight and return to zebralight).
    I did not know that. In my case, my return was for replacement, not refund, so I don't think I can recover the $5.50 on that.

  19. #439

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    A return for replacement would certainly be covered and reimbursed. All you do for the claim is view the original paypal transaction in your history, click "request return shipping refund" and then upload a picture showing how much the return shipping was and showing the address of the merchant (zebralight). I almost always pay for shipping from within paypal ( https://paypal.com/shiplabel/create/ ) because paypal gives free tracking IDs (even on first class mail) PLUS a small shipping discount. So, I can just upload the PDF of the shipping label that Paypal gives me as the proof of return shipping. I print the shipping label from my home printer and put it in the mail (I rarely go to the post office). Another nice service I use a ton is if your package is going Priority mail, you can schedule the USPS to pick it up from your front door for free (just create an account at usps.com).

    ANYWAY...for you genzod, it wouldn't work for your original purchase anyway. You have to enable Paypal return shipping in your account first, and its not retroactive. Its dumb though...you just have to click activate on this page https://www.paypal.com/us/webapps/mpp/returns ....its not like you have to "do" anything to be eligible for it. For a service that they advertise I would think that they would have it activated for all Paypal accounts automatically...but...whatever.

  20. #440
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by gogdog View Post
    Is anybody else getting the same "flashing" problems that user gunga was having? ->





    I just wanted to confirm if everyone is experiencing this or if it is a one-off error/bug on gunga's light. I don't see how zebralight could accept such "flashing" when a single or double click should go straight to the desired mode without any kind of other "flashing" of some other light level?


    EDIT: And.....does this flashing happen in G5 for you too genzod? Like, in G5, if you double click to M, does it preflash some other light level first?
    I've programmed my light with the lows in single-click, mediums in hold, and highs in double-click, with no issues at all.

  21. #441

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    I've programmed my light with the lows in single-click, mediums in hold, and highs in double-click, with no issues at all.
    Sweet...good to know and relieves one of my fears. And...thats exactly how I plan on programming the light too.

  22. #442
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by gogdog View Post
    Sweet...good to know and relieves one of my fears. And...thats exactly how I plan on programming the light too.
    Happy to help! I like having the press and hold on medium because it's easily accessible from when the light is on either high or low

  23. #443

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by gogdog View Post
    Sweet...good to know and relieves one of my fears. And...thats exactly how I plan on programming the light too.
    Same here, works fantastic.

  24. #444

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Ok...I was planning on using an eneloop or rarely a L92 lithium battery with the h53...but...I've been eyeing a Fenix arb-l14-1600u li-ion micro usb rechargeable battery.

    I'm a backpacker and weight really matters to me. A L92 weighs .52oz, the fenix claims .67oz, and a 2000 mAh eneloop is .91. So it would save me .25oz over the eneloop. I prefer rechargeables to disposables for environmental reasons and thus avoid the L92s.

    I think the main disadvantage is that its only 1600 mAh vs 2000 mAh so capacity vs weight is actually about the same...but, on longer trips it has the much bigger advantage of being able to be charged from a battery pack that I would have that I would charge my phone from. Can anybody point out any other disadvantages? Mainly....the Fenix battery should work fine in the h53, correct?

    And...here comes my real ignorant question. I also see Fenix has the ARB-L16-700U...which is a micro usb rechargeable 700 mah 16340 battery. (so, would work in a h32). Now, I understand the total energy between a cr123 and AA is roughly the same. But if I charged both of these batteries from a external battery pack...is the 700 mAh 16340 battery really only going to drain my battery pack by 700 mAh or would it drain more due to the voltage difference?

  25. #445
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Quote Originally Posted by gogdog View Post
    Ok...I've been eyeing a Fenix arb-l14-1600u li-ion micro usb rechargeable battery....

    Can anybody point out any other disadvantages? ....
    Other than having the extra little electronic bit that can break or short out ... ?
    ... is the archimedes peak

  26. #446

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Milli amp hours (mAh) is a measure of current draw relative to time, what you want is watt hours which tells you total energy. Since watt = volts * amps, you can multiply the nominal voltage to the Ah to get an idea of total capacity. So the eneloop is 2Ah * 1.2V = 2.4Wh. The 16340 is 0.7Ah * 3.7V = 2.59Wh.

    The fenix battery must have a circuit that lowers the voltage because li-ion are typically 3.7V.
    Hello darkness my old friend,
    I've come to talk with you again...
    I liked neutral tints before they were cool.

  27. #447

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Right...the Fenix battery has a voltage of 1.5V, not 3.7V like a typical li-ion.

    Here is where I'm getting confused.

    So, the 1600 mAh AA fenix li-ion battery charges at 300mA. So...I would assume it takes 5 hours 20 minutes to charge via micro-USB.
    The 700 mAh 16340 battery also states it charges at 300mA. Now...is this going to take 2 hours 20 minutes to charge and thus drain much less from my battery pack than charging the 1600 mAh AA battery?

    Logically...that doesn't make sense because the two batteries have roughly the same "energy" capacity...but I'm just having a hard time reconciling that with the stated charge rates...

  28. #448

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Ok....sorry, I went ahead and read some articles to become enlightened on the mAh, voltage and watts issue. So, both batteries should drain roughly the same amount of energy (watts) from my power bank. And my power bank (lets say...10,000mAh) is based on the same voltage as my phone...3.7V, so...there is 37Wh in the power bank. The 1600 mAh fenix AA battery is 1600 mAh x 1.5V, or 2.4Wh.

    Though....I still don't know how long each battery is going to take to charge. If the charging voltage is 1.5V to the Fenix AA battery at 300mAh, I'm assuming it will take the 5 hours 20 minutes to charge. Vs...the 16340 battery that also charges at 300mAh via USB but at 3.7V, so..it would take 2 hours 20 minutes to charge.

    Maybe I'm wrong though...maybe the circuit in the AA battery constricts the voltage to 1.5V output, but the input can still be 3.7V while charging...

  29. #449
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    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Clarification: You said the battery charges at, 300mAh, but this should be 300mA (notice that I removed the “h”). I believe the charging current is referring to 300mA on the 1.5V side of the charger, that is, the battery current. If this is the case, your calculation is correct in that the 16340 will charge much more quickly.

    Looking at the Fenix ARB-L14-1600U specs on Battery Junction (https://www.batteryjunction.com/feni...l14-1600u.html) it is rated for 5V USB input. Yes, the charging circuit will reduce the 5V to around 1.5V for charging.

    FWIW, I try to be as ultralight as possible when I backpack and typically bring my H53c with a NiMH in it and an L91 lithium as a spare. Once my H600Fc IV arrives, I will probably take that despite the increase in weight. Why? Because the increase in weight is worth it to me simply because I love flashlights. I don’t need more than 1000lm as my H53c has always been more than adequate in the past, but I want to bring more lumens (and that floody beam) because I enjoy it.

    But to make your decision more difficult, apparently there is an 1100mAh 16340 available that offers an excellent energy density: https://www.rtdvapor.com/keeppower-i...0mah-10a-2pcs/





    To help out with the electrical concepts:

    Voltage is the energy per unit charge, expressed in volts [V]. In other words, it is the available energy to push a fixed number of electrons or ions. Voltage is analogous to the pressure of water.

    [voltage = energy/charge = joules/coulombs],



    Current is charge flowing through time, expressed in amps, or milliamps [mA]. In other words, it is the amount of electrons or ions flowing through the conductor per time. Current is analogous to volumetric flow of water.

    [current = charge/time = coulombs/s]



    If we multiply current by time, we get amount of charge, or electrons or ions. This is exactly what we do when we express mAh – since we have [charge/time]*[time], we are left with charge. If we multiply voltage by charge, or [V*mAh], we have [energy/charge]*[charge], which is energy.

    At any given time, energy is conserved. Power is simply the rate of energy transfer, and so this is also conserved. Since power is voltage*current, then we have:

    voltageIN*currentIN = voltageOUT*currentOUT (ignoring losses)

    If we have a pump pushing water, the output pressure is limited by the output volumetric flow rate. Notice that when you have more taps running in your house, the pressure decreases. This is analogous to the voltage dropping when you have more load (current).

  30. #450

    Default Re: New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

    Thank you...that does really help.

    Yeah, so I called Fenix and was told the AA battery does have overcharge protection, so if I hook up a micro usb that outputs at 2.1A, it would go down to 300mA. I then asked that I assume its charging at 1.5V so would take...5 hours ( 1600maH/ (300mA * 1.5V) ), but...for whatever reason the CSR said it takes about 3 hours. Who knows...I went ahead and bought one anyway and I'll just play around with it when it gets here.

    Also, you said
    there is an 1100mAh 16340
    but I didn't see it there...just the 1200mAh 18350 battery. Which....is just a longer version of 16340...though...how would a person know if something like a zebralight h32 would accept that extra length? I guess just calling the company?

    Doesnt really matter much....I asked zebralight about their h32 headlamps and when a warm version was going to be made again and was told that there are currently no plans on making revised cr123 headlamps, so I guess the current stock of cold white h32s are it and when they are gone they are gone.
    Last edited by gogdog; 01-04-2018 at 03:17 PM.

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