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Thread: Emisar D4

  1. #121

    Default Re: Noctigon Meteor D4

    Quote Originally Posted by ven View Post
    I am running either sony vtc5/vtc6 and samsung 30q .
    Same here. I am running vtc6, 30q, and ncr18650ga. I'm not finding a heck of a lot of difference between the 3.

    Any of the above batteries would do just fine Haroldutsen.

  2. #122
    ven's Avatar
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    Default Re: Noctigon Meteor D4

    Yes same here, tbh probably the GA would be better suited to keep a little more under control....................who knows, might get 20s run before step down instead of 15s

    Been messing with the thermal timer, set it myself then tried the max(10+ clicks and hold, after 1st count and when flickers , release switch for max setting). Damn it gets even crazy hotter, especially after step down and double clicked for turbo....................OOOOOUUUUCCCCHHHH!!!!! The body almost got too hot to hold!!! Certainly have to be careful with this beast. The rubber switch was actually hot, as it steps down to maybe 500 ish, the heat takes a while to come under control.

    This makes the m43vn seem sensible, the x65vn now takes forever to get hot (2 mins)

  3. #123

    Default Re: Noctigon Meteor D4

    Thanks all for your suggestions much appreciated I'm gonna get me a few of them to try out

  4. #124
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    Default Re: Noctigon Meteor D4













    animated




    Andreas

  5. #125

    Default Re: Noctigon Meteor D4

    ^^^^^
    Wow! Thanks for sharing!

  6. #126
    ven's Avatar
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    Default Re: Noctigon Meteor D4

    Awesome pics Andreas, thanks for sharing

  7. #127

    Default Re: Noctigon Meteor D4

    Love this light, just ordered a 3rd one!

    Made a quick vid of it up against the H2R & E14 II.

    DX80, X80, X45, DT70, MF01, TN40vn, M43 219c, D4, E14 II, EC50 II, DQG 3th, H2R.
    My torch beam shot vids:https://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLICS_GB

  8. #128

    Default Re: Noctigon Meteor D4

    My 219C has arrived! Think I prefer the XP-L Hi at a push. I Can hold it longer, better throw without losing the flood effect and brighter!

    DX80, X80, X45, DT70, MF01, TN40vn, M43 219c, D4, E14 II, EC50 II, DQG 3th, H2R.
    My torch beam shot vids:https://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLICS_GB

  9. #129
    ven's Avatar
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    Default Re: Noctigon Meteor D4

    Nice vid The olight would be my night time use for tired eyes i think, just easier on the eye with the more (slightly) warmer CT. I presume your 219c is set at the shipped thermal temp 45oC, mine is crazy hot at 30s!!!! But i have altered the temp, still not at the max 70oC. Left my IR temp gun in work, so will check temps next week and see what i get.

  10. #130
    Enlightened DogLeg's Avatar
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    Smile Re: Emisar D4

    That Emisar D4 Nichia 219C is one heck of a great $40 handwarmer. Just got mine and I love it.
    Bigger is Better but Brighter is Best! Fenix: L2T, E1, P1, TK75, PD30, PD35TAC, TK15UE; EagleTac M3C4, Xeno F7v6+Nichia219, 2.35x10⁹ Lux Scorcher, ThruNite TN42, Manker U21, CONVOY L6, Astrolux S41, AceBeam EC50, Jaxman: M8, E2.

  11. #131
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    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Did a quick amp draw check on my D4 Nichia with a VTC5 cell. I got 24 amps with a fluke amp clamp.

  12. #132
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    Default Re: Emisar D4

    A beast mjgsxr, just crazy, which we all need a bit of

  13. #133

    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Bought this clip from Solarforce and a washer from Oveready. Had to dremel out the inside of the opening of the clip to fit over the tailcap threads. I also clipped and spread the washer to fit snuggly in the cap.

    After taking the pic I noticed how sharp the ends of the washer looked and smoothed them out with the dremel.

    This is the modded 4000K 219c hcri version.

  14. #134

    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Got 3 buying no more! Got to say the XP-L 6500k is my fave, brightest, coolest operating and throwiest!

    Strangely all 3 lights have nearly same turn on lumens with an 18650 battery and the exact same with an 18350 battery. (on a cool night I can just about hit 5,000 lumens with a Sony VTC5A, obviously dropping towards 3,500 after just seconds) The only difference is that the lumens drop far quicker on the hotter operating D4's.

    DX80, X80, X45, DT70, MF01, TN40vn, M43 219c, D4, E14 II, EC50 II, DQG 3th, H2R.
    My torch beam shot vids:https://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLICS_GB

  15. #135
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    Default Re: Emisar D4


  16. #136
    Flashaholic Keitho's Avatar
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    Default Re: Emisar D4

    So I've seen in a few places people say "the D4 has PWM" in the same way one would say "the D4 has a venerial disease." I understand the potential impact if someone has a job inspecting ceiling fans or spinning jet engine blades, and I understand the impact to certain still photography and videography situations, and I know there will be fanboys of other devices. But I was wondering if anyone has actually detected the PWM as implemented on the D4 in a real world situation?

    I'm not particularly sensitive to PWM myself, and my ears are certainly too old to detect faint 16 kHz whines, so I'm really asking a genuine question. Even at 1.4 lumens, I can't see it, but I'm curious to know what others see.

  17. #137
    Flashaholic* maukka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Emisar D4

    The PWM on the D4 is not detectable by eye. Might be visible on video when shooting with very high shutter speeds.

  18. #138
    Flashaholic* derfyled's Avatar
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    Default Re: Emisar D4

    I'm very sensitive to PWM and hate the strobe effect when moving a PWM light but the D4 is not at all a problem. If you really want, you cant see it but in real life usage, it's really not detectable.
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  19. #139
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    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Quote Originally Posted by Keitho View Post
    So I've seen in a few places people say "the D4 has PWM" in the same way one would say "the D4 has a venerial disease." I understand the potential impact if someone has a job inspecting ceiling fans or spinning jet engine blades, and I understand the impact to certain still photography and videography situations, and I know there will be fanboys of other devices. But I was wondering if anyone has actually detected the PWM as implemented on the D4 in a real world situation?

    I'm not particularly sensitive to PWM myself, and my ears are certainly too old to detect faint 16 kHz whines, so I'm really asking a genuine question. Even at 1.4 lumens, I can't see it, but I'm curious to know what others see.
    It's regulated to about 160 lumens, then it's PWM. I'd love it f it were regulated to about 500-600 lumens.

  20. #140

    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Quote Originally Posted by eraursls1984 View Post
    It's regulated to about 160 lumens, then it's PWM. I'd love it f it were regulated to about 500-600 lumens.
    No, it's PWM in all modes except for 350 mA (this is what you get when you remove power and start it) and turbo. It is regulated to about 160 lumens, but PWM is there.

  21. #141

    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Quote Originally Posted by Agpp View Post
    No, it's PWM in all modes except for 350 mA (this is what you get when you remove power and start it) and turbo. It is regulated to about 160 lumens, but PWM is there.
    Yup. But the PWM is very high frequency and isn't detectable to the naked eye.

    Compared to current control, High frequency PWM has the following differences:

    * Better tint with less tint shift. Many LEDs tend to produce better tints when run at full power. With current control at low power they sometimes start to look green. Lights that use PWM maintain the same tint at all brightness settings and even at lower power settings the tint still looks good.

    * The D4 has a single 7135 regulator chip for low modes and a FET for higher modes. As such, there might be tint shift when switching from the 7135 to the FET (happens around 130-160 lumens depending on LED choice). Below that setting all outputs will have one tint. Above that setting all outputs a slightly different tint.

    * LEDs are more efficient when run at low power. Lights with current-control drivers are more efficient when run at less than maximum power. A light with a current-control driver such as a Zebralight, should have a longer runtime at the same lumens on pretty much every setting except the point where the 7135 chip is running at max (130-160 lumens). When run at max power, LED has the same efficiency regardless of which driver is used. However, because the D4 pulls far more amps than any Zebralight, it will have lower runtimes.

  22. #142

    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Quote Originally Posted by Fireclaw18 View Post
    Yup. But the PWM is very high frequency and isn't detectable to the naked eye.

    Compared to current control, High frequency PWM has the following differences:

    * Better tint with less tint shift. Many LEDs tend to produce better tints when run at full power. With current control at low power they sometimes start to look green. Lights that use PWM maintain the same tint at all brightness settings and even at lower power settings the tint still looks good.

    * The D4 has a single 7135 regulator chip for low modes and a FET for higher modes. As such, there might be tint shift when switching from the 7135 to the FET (happens around 130-160 lumens depending on LED choice). Below that setting all outputs will have one tint. Above that setting all outputs a slightly different tint.

    * LEDs are more efficient when run at low power. Lights with current-control drivers are more efficient when run at less than maximum power. A light with a current-control driver such as a Zebralight, should have a longer runtime at the same lumens on pretty much every setting except the point where the 7135 chip is running at max (130-160 lumens). When run at max power, LED has the same efficiency regardless of which driver is used. However, because the D4 pulls far more amps than any Zebralight, it will have lower runtimes.
    From the human-eye perspective there's no switching from 7135 to FET. 7135 is used in all modes except turbo, but as you ramp the light uses FET more and more. This means that tint shift is gradual. Personally, I can't see it and haven't seen a mention of a person who does.

  23. #143

    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Quote Originally Posted by Agpp View Post
    From the human-eye perspective there's no switching from 7135 to FET. 7135 is used in all modes except turbo, but as you ramp the light uses FET more and more. This means that tint shift is gradual. Personally, I can't see it and haven't seen a mention of a person who does.
    That makes sense. And come to think of it I can't see the tint shift either since it is gradual.

  24. #144

    Default Re: Emisar D4

    It seems like I'm particularly sensitive to tint shift? I can clearly detect my D4vn's tint shift from pinkish to more of a creamy white. The same goes with my other lights.

  25. #145
    ven's Avatar
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    Default Re: Emisar D4

    D1 5000k and D4 4000k



    Heat wise with the D1..............no issue, gets warm fairly quick but nothing like the D4. Only ran for a few mins trying to wait for a step down............never noticed if it did! Great option for anyone wanting a pocket thrower.

  26. #146

    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Got the D1 already? Grats. Throw wise how does it compare to other pocket throwers?

  27. #147
    ven's Avatar
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    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Quote Originally Posted by TCY View Post
    Got the D1 already? Grats. Throw wise how does it compare to other pocket throwers?
    Not had chance and wont be dark for another 4hrs or so.............

    So far, the hot spot is quite large(say compared to a predator pro xp-g2). Most of my lights are flood bias as those are more useful to me. I dont have too many pocket throwers.

    Its bright and intense, spill is usable and the 5000k as expected is cool side of neutral. If you like some throw, pocket able ...............its a safe buy imho.

  28. #148

    Default Re: Emisar D4

    I'm about to pull the trigger, will be my first 18650 light. Looking at the recommended batteries and I don't quite know what to make of it. I have read up on unprotected cells but don't quite know the ins and outs yet. Am I safe with anything recommended by MTN Electronics? What would be the performance differences between the higher and lower capacity cells? Will flat top need a spacer in this light? I am tempted to get some button and some flat tops because I eventually would like a ZL SC600 mkIII.

    Thinking more is better, I am considering a couple Efest 3000mAh and a couple Sony VTC6's. Will these be too high of a discharge to use in other 18650 lights down the road?
    Last edited by MiniLights; 09-21-2017 at 12:02 PM.

  29. #149
    ven's Avatar
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    Default Re: Emisar D4

    Hey there, the D4 is awesome! vtc6 and vtc5a will be a good choice for this light. Yes Richard certainly knows his stuff at mtn electronics! Flat top are fine, high drain a must!


    I would get at least 2 vtc6(or which you choose) for this light, you will be swapping them out pretty quick if you like the WOW factor.

  30. #150
    ven's Avatar
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    Default Re: Emisar D4




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