Replacement for Predator Pro?

Getting tired of my Armytek Predator flickering, and if my latest round of cleaning and battery charging doesn't work, I may call it a $100 loss and look for something else. It will be a shame because it was one of the only flashlights I found to do what I wanted, plus as much as I like flashlights I try not to have very many. I haven't been keeping up with the latest and greatest in the flashlight world, so I was hoping to get some input in case it comes to replacement.

Here's what I like about the Predator and would need in a replacement:

• Ultra-low brightness (Firefly/moonlight)
• Memory of last brightness, but with quick access to firefly without having to cycle
• Good thrower (used less for throw and more for the "pinpointing" light at closer range
• Tailcap with momentary on
• Rubber ring for cigar grip
• Neutral or warm tint (not absolutely necessary)

Was thinking maybe a Klarus XT2CR or XT12S and really like the built in charging, but unless I missed something it doesn't look like they have memory. My next thought was a Nitecore SRT7 or SRT7GT, mostly due to the low and the selector ring.

Anyway, is there anything else I should consider? I appreciate any help.

Take a look at the Acebeam L16. It checks most of your boxes as it has:

1 Lumen as the lowest mode. Accessible from a press and hold of the side button.
The side button also has a memory for whatever mode it was left in, except for strobe.
It's a pretty nice thrower for a stock 18650 light.
The tailcap provide momentary or constant on to Turbo only.
Has a cigar grip, though not rubberized. This one is made out of aluminum.
Cool white tint only so far, but it is a nice cool white. And I say this as someone who prefers warm and neutral tints.

Did you try and contact Armytek? Bet it is still under warranty.

Thanks. Are Acebeams pretty durable/reliable? Forgot to mention it would be a nightstand light.

I contacted Armytek a couple times, basically got the standard troubleshooting steps (charge the battery, clean the contacts, etc.). It seems to be running well at the moment, but if/when that changes I'm not sure yet whether I'll contact them again.

Sandra is the person I contacted for an issue if my memory is correct. I do know how annoying an intermittent problem with a light is. Like a broken car which purrs like a kitten at the mechanics only to act up later.

Exactly how this one has been... mid-way through trying to get help I think it's playing nice, then later starts flickering again while I'm using it. One thing I still need to do if it happens again is check the voltage on my battery when it starts.

I checked out the Acebeam, it looks like an awesome light but the "Tailcap always turbo" is a turnoff for me. While that makes it one of the few true "Tactical" behaving lights, 2000 lumens just seems like a lot to shine down the hallway with just-woke-up eyes, should the need arise to use it. I was still tempted though!

benhar said:

Thanks. Are Acebeams pretty durable/reliable? Forgot to mention it would be a nightstand light.

Click to expand...

In general, I'm quite impressed with Acebeam. The L16 doesn't tailstand though, so this unfortunately compromises its use as a nightstand light.

OP after a ton of research and seemingly non-stop praise of the Acebeam L16 I finally bit the bullet and got one. It is my very first Acebeam and it showed up perfect in every single way. The L16 is an XHP35 HI light that actually has a new design driver meant for the XHP series of emitters right off. From what I understand AT is still trying to use their obsolete "driver in an aluminum capsule" for their XHP lights that they have been using for everything else in the V3 line. I like my XHP35 AT's heck I got 5 of them but when it comes to sheer output and throw the L16 actually flat out embarrasses the AT's. YES the L16 has a different UI set up that in my opinion is one of the only actually "tactical" UI's I have. The L16's UI does take a bit of getting used to but not long. The tail switch being for half press and full click on max output when you think about it is very good. The side switch on the L16 is also stainless steel that is mounted flush to the body to prevent accidental activation. THIS does take a bit of getting used to as trying to find this flush side switch in the dark in a hurry has left me going for the I-will-be-seeing-spots-for-10-minuites-after-I-turn-it-off tail switch a couple of times.

The L16 is also the first light that features a built in micro USB system that charges at a full 1.0 amp. There is a lot to be said for that. The holster is above average. The machining is also above average I will say it has some Zebralight-like attention to detail with just a touch of Jetbeam free form design language(the tail switch). Anodization is perfect. I want 2 more of the Acebeam 3120mah button top 20 amp cells that power this monster L16 for back ups and I cannot find them which is pretty unfortunate..

To sum up OP the L16 will be MUCH brighter at max vs your AT and throw literally almost twice as far. The L16 beam profile looks to my eyes like an extremely good hand picked XML2 variant cranked all the way up which I like a LOT. As for nightstand light sure! Why not? Just leave the side switch facing you so you know where it is in the dark or just go for the turbo tail. Dealing with this unique UI gets quickly forgotten about when using the light the performance is just that good.

benhar,

Sorry for the problem with the Predator Pro. I just received the XHP35 and it's an awesome flashlight. I think it may be worth it to contact Armytek and make use of the warranty. If you actually want to have a properly working Predator Pro. I will soon get a Viking Pro XHP50 as well.

Y'all are really making me want an Acebeam regardless of the outcome of the flickering! Just trying to decide if the UI fits. I rarely need or use turbo, but like having it available. I'm all about good user friendly interfaces... does the duality of using the tailcap for turbo vs the side switch for everything else cause any confusion/issues? There's also the aspect of wondering if 2000 lumens down the hall in the middle of the night is too much for sleepy eyes, should the need arise... I currently keep the Predator at a low-mid range brightness. Either way I'm really tempted right now... the prospect of potential storm duty for my job tonight kinda makes me wish I had one in hand (too late for that regardless).

That's not to say I've given up on the Predator. I do really like it, and have tried pursuing warranty, but the issue is so intermittent that I can't get far enough in all their troubleshooting steps to make it to that point. I guess it could be as simple as it just starts flickering when the battery gets to a certain point, but if that's the case that still doesn't seem like a good thing. One reason I like the battery indicators on lights the past few years. I'm hoping the thorough cleaning and greasing I gave it works.

So I'm back to troubleshooting the Predator. After the cleaning and full charge, it seemed to be working again. But the flickering eventually returned, so I took out the battery and measured it... 3.69V. I then tried touching a bent paperclip to the threads and battery (email from Armytek said knife or something, but that just seemed risky for the battery). I think it still flickers, but I'm not convinced that's not because of a less than ideal connection being made with the paperclip. I responded to my last email from Armytek with the updated information. It also seems to flicker pretty bad when I'm holding the button for momentary on. And I may be imagining it, but the flickering from the "On" position seems to be worse when I turned it on just after holding it in momentary on.

I'd like to be able to troubleshoot the tailcap a little more, but I can't seem to get the ring off. I tried needle nose pliers per the manual, but all I'm succeeding in doing is making shiny new scratches on the ring. That thing is on tight... any suggestions for how to get it off? Still trying to stick with the Predator, I've yet to find a light that suits my use better.

For removal of rings of the style I think you're seeing, "snap ring pliers" have worked for me, like Amazon USA item B003R6K1BC ($6.30 ATM). My needle nose do not have tips small enough to fit in the little holes in the rings.

To answer your OP, it might be time to spring for $40 for a D1 while you're fiddling with AT, especially if you're looking for a nightstand thrower. The D1 is currently available at both intl outdoor and mtn electronics. Assuming that I'm looking at the correct AT spec sheet, the D1 will be 10mm smaller head diameter than your Predator, very slightly less throw (415m vs 438m), about the same lumens at startup, tail-stand-able for the nightstand, lighter weight, 2/3 the length, a nice dim low mode, lots of LED/body options, the same body diameter (would use the same rubber ring if you wanted to), and a great UI (mode memory, double-click to turbo, quick/smooth ramp, programmable temp regulation). It doesn't have a tail switch or momentary operation, it probably won't go down to 50m depth (well, it will, but it probably won't work very well), and the Armytek is objectively more burly (despite your current situation).

Good luck!

- What Keitho said, get a D1 while you're waiting for a resolution with the AT.
Also, you can use a shiny penny instead of a knife or whatever to connect the negative to the tube. Hold it with your thumb like normal, wear a glove if it gets warm.

What kind of flickering is it? On-off or between higher and lower modes? In the situation #1 it is a driver failure. Otherwise it is insufficient voltage to support a higher mode which is a driver design flaw. Or a "feature" if you want

Sub 3.7 volts sounds like a low battery if it is charged. I could be wrong on that but in any case the first thing I trouble shoot with a light is the battery by trying another.

Thanks for the help. The tailcap does not have the little holes, just the half circles. I can't seem to get enough grip on them to loosen them, and getting pretty annoyed with the shiny spots I'm making. I tried to attach pictures but I'm just now realizing Photobucket disabled 3rd party hosting for a ransom, so I need to find another hosting site.

I made a video of the flickering below, there is a delay before the click because I'm holding it in momentary on before clicking. The 3.69V is after it's been used for a while, that was just when I first started noticing the flickering since last charge. I can't use a penny to close the circuit, the inside of the tube is coated.

So what's the catch on the D1 (or D4 for that matter)? Looks like a great light for the price. I'm unfamiliar with the brand, is the quality good, or does it feel cheap? I have a Quark Tactical and an EagleTac G25C2, so I'm not hurting for lights, but at the price that D1 is really tempting. To he honest y'all almost had me getting an L16 I didn't need, but the levels aren't quite the ones I'd want, so I passed for the price.

The catch is that there's no knurling.
lol

No the catch is that you'll end up getting another one, and a D4, and probably another D4.

It's a great little light,
Put it into momentary only mode and you've got a pretty nice phaser, it's actually the first light I've had that is completely inoffensive looking, and with 4 clicks can be locked into blindingly bright, momentary only mode.

I've put some bicycle road tire inner tubing on mine for good grip and some ding protection.

About the video, that doesn't inspire confidence, whatever is going on... You got the Pro, which is fully regulated...

I had the same flickering a few years ago. Armytek sent me new tailcap, problem gone.
I suggest to do the same.
Mike

Crap, I might have to buy a D1 or D4 just because now!

Anyway, yeah the flickering definitely diminishes confidence. I keep hoping it's a simple solution. If it's simple as replacing the tail cap, I hope they still have some lying around. If not I'll be bummed that I didn't push the issue sooner. Even if I had a choice between a v2.5 and a v3 I'd still rather have a 2.5, between the "updated" UI and the QA problems I've read about.

2.5 pro is really hard to replace. Certainly a keeper for me.
D1 or D4 no regulation on turbo makes that light worthless for me. Good to impress someone, not for reliable usage.
That is why I bought Zebralight sc600w mk3 hi.
Mike