Predator Pro v2.5 vs v3

benhar

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So as some of you saw in my previous thread, I've been having flickering issues with my Predator Pro. After many back and forth emails between me and ArmyTek, they eventually came to the conclusion of replacing the light. I'm not sure if this means with another 2.5 or a 3, since I'm assuming there aren't exactly a lot of 2.5's floating around the shop. I've asked and am waiting to hear back. I'm extremely happy with the 2.5, especially with the customization (I have mine with memory mode when tightened, and loosened always starts at Firefly). My concern is A) the v3 doesn't seem to give that flexibility and B) I keep reading about issues with the v3.

If it ends up being the v3 they'd replace it with, is it worth taking a chance on? Otherwise I'd be tempted to just take my chances with the v2.5. The flickering only happens less than 5% of the time anyway, and maybe I'd do a hail Mary of taking the tailcap apart for some TLC. Haven't done that yet for fear of voiding the warranty (taking it apart to replace the rubber boot doesn't reveal much to clean).

Any thoughts or advice?
 

sp5it

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V3 just sucks if you ask me. Looks like cheap bazaar light with all that white prints, but de gustibus non est disputandum...
Tel them to send you new tailcap like they sent me when my light starts to flicker. Problem solved.
Mike
 

mhanlen

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Have you tried bridging the tailcap with a copper wire and seeing if it's the tailcap? You're taking it out of the equation then. I had a bad tailcap causing it on my Predator 2.5, and they sent me a new one. It's been fine ever since, and flicker free.
 

benhar

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She said XP-L HI, which I assume means v3. I didn't think to try a wire, just a paper clip with mixed results. I'll get a wire and see if I have better luck.
 

benhar

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She said XP-L HI, which I assume means v3. I didn't think to try a wire, just a paper clip with mixed results. I'll get a wire and see if I have better luck.

So I tried it with a piece of stranded wire and didn't see any flicker. It worked much better than the paper clip. Now the question is, what are the chances that me completely disassembling the tail cap and cleaning everything would actually fix the problem? I'd be surprised if ArmyTek had any old v2.5 tail caps lying around... I've successfully removed the rubber boot but I need to go to Lowes and get some snap ring pliers before I can go any further. Was also concerned that doing so would void the warranty and ruin my chances for a return if this doesn't work.
 

eh4

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Predator Pro v3 with XB-H is 45$ now.
I didn't really care for the HI version, hot spot was quite a bit bigger; it's brighter but the more spread out hot spot reduced the useable throw for me.
As for v3 vs v2.5, I read the threads on the 2.5 for a year or more but never ordered in time. With the v3 you look at the levels, see if you can get behind them or not. I think the levels are decently spaced, except that the highest level with head loose seems too close to the head tight high to make the tight high worth the extra battery drain; it's good for what it is, staying on high regardless of clicks.
Anyhow, the warm XB-H is a good, useful light imo.
 

CelticCross74

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XP-L HI is V3. They come in both WARM and COOL tints. I have both. To be safe try to find out which tint XP_L HI they are sending you. I love my V2.5. It is in my opinion one of the best XPG2 lights ever. BUT...it has the UI of a Rubiks Cube. The V3 UI while still not perfect is in my opinion far easier to deal with. As far as I know AT has not had any V2.5's left for awhile. +1 on the XB-H Pred Pro. No it does not crank 1000 lumens etc but it doesnt have to. One of my fav's is also the warm white XB-H Pred Pro...
 

benhar

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So it would be worth asking for the XB-H over the XP-L?

I'm not a huge fan of the v3 spacing, I currently have my 2.5 set to 0.1, 1.5, 6, 50, 160, 640 (only know this because I happened to right it down years back). I find 6 and 50 the most useful and most often used. This is a great spacing for my uses, though I'll be honest, I'm not sure how much real-world difference the v3 spacing makes. Yeah the 2.5 is a pain to program, but the end result is worth it IMO.

I picked up some split ring pliers, will try to see if I can do any good on the 2.5 tail cap.

Edit: Also, how well implemented is the v3 click-to-change-level UI? Those tend to drive me nuts when I turn a light off and on quick enough to accidentally change levels.
 
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eh4

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Look up armytek.com

...ok that's weird. I looked Yesterday and they were marked down to 45$, no joke.
Shenanigans on armytek lurking and bumping the price after some buzz here?... oh surely not.
That is weird though, I'm gonna look some more
 
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benhar

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That stinks, I was debating on getting one just because; figured might be worth getting that and keeping the 2.5 vs going through the hassle of a warranty replacement. In any event, after getting the tail cap taken apart, cleaning it, and using a LOT of NyoGel, it seems to be a bit better. So maybe I can hold onto that $45 to put towards the sc600w MK IV once it's out in the wild!
 

eh4

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Yeah me too, I was thinking about getting a spare at 45$.
Good luck with your tail cap and ZL fund!
 

scs

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Look up armytek.com

...ok that's weird. I looked Yesterday and they were marked down to 45$, no joke.
Shenanigans on armytek lurking and bumping the price after some buzz here?... oh surely not.
That is weird though, I'm gonna look some more

AT prices regularly dive just to spike back up again. They often have sales on "interesting sounding days."
 

scs

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benhar, have you asked AT whether spare v2.5 tailcaps are available? If it is and you can prove to them in a video that the problem is the tailcap, perhaps they'll send you one.
 

CelticCross74

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the only non AT source I can find that has both the cool white and warm white XB-H Pros have them for $90 but they do have them. Was the $45 XB-H Pred a Pred Pro or standard non Pro? Love mine especially running it off of either 2x18350's or using my Barracuda 2x18650 tube on it for some serious run time. I actually like that the XB-H is not driven to within an inch of its life 1000+ lumens. The XB-H is more than bright enough and still pushes 40k CD
 

eh4

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I don't remember now, but I think it was the regular and Pro both, because I was petty close to ordering and was weighing the firefly on the pros side and the strobe on the cons...
I was thinking they'd be discontinued at that price and to go ahead and get another one.
 

benhar

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What are the chances that the switch and spring module from the v3 tail cap will fit in a v2.5 tail cap body? I can ask if they'll send me one but I may have better luck buying one. While AT has been polite and seems willing to help, I almost feel like I'm talking to a bot that's responding to key words or phrases. It's as if only half of each email is getting read and half of that is getting misinterpreted. Can't hurt to ask though, a tail cap is cheaper for them than a whole light!
 

eh4

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Why on earth would they redesign the tail cap for v3?
- unless there was something really wrong with the v2.5 tail cap, even then, why change the threads, tube stock, etc?

- I'm pretty sure it's a bot, or maybe a person with a bunch of email templates.
 

benhar

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Why on earth would they redesign the tail cap for v3?
- unless there was something really wrong with the v2.5 tail cap, even then, why change the threads, tube stock, etc?

- I'm pretty sure it's a bot, or maybe a person with a bunch of email templates.
No clue but the new tail cap is very different. Guess that doesn't necessarily mean the threads wouldn't be compatible though... I've inquired about interchangeability, we'll see what they say.
 
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