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Yoyomah20
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Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
:welcome:
I don't blame you wanting to err on the side of caution-- typically a projector lamp will do better with the H9 than a reflector lamp, but optical concerns aren't the only issue-- the H9 produces more heat and can be problematic for wiring and the lamp materials. I don't have the data to advise with certainty that you'll be OK to proceed.
Those will be good (so long as the upgrade is permissible. -Virgil- may be along soon with that data).
You could always do a voltage drop test to see if the wiring is really up to the task at least, but there are still other materials in the lamp that could be damaged. And there's still a potential for excessive glare.
The Philips HIR2 (which isn't applicable to your car) has a CCT of about 3450K. This is about as high as it gets given the properties the filament. I'm not sure why you'd want it any higher-- it doesn't need to "match" anything but the other lamp with the same function (high beam or low beam) and higher CCTs get harder for the human optical system to process.
Your high beams are the H7-- unless you can get the Osram Rallye 65W, get these or these (ordinarily I'd recommend a Philips H7 sold by Amazon but there are some reports that there are counterfeit ones in the stream). Some sites may claim there's a 55W Vosla +120 bulb that is just as good as the Osram Rallye 65W, but that's all lies and jest.
That car is now about 4 years old-- make sure the lenses are still in excellent condition and find a shop to aim those lamps properly (one with the right equipment, not just a wall to shine the lights on).
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Good. Were all bulbs connected and lit when you were testing, or did you pull off the socket and probe it?
That's interesting. You should see 12.6.
The US test voltage for bulbs is 12.8v. The European test voltage, in most cases, is 13.2v. Either which way, and assuming you tested with the bulbs all hooked up, your bulbs are getting more voltage than the rated value.
Could very easily be.
This is definitely not happening.
Except it isn't. That whole narrative, "closer to daylight", is used to push higher and higher and higher CTs or CCTs. Technically it's true that noontime sunlight under standard conditions (cloudless sky, no pollution or haze, etc) is considered to have a CT of 6500K, but all that lets us say is that the closer your light bulb (or LED, fluorescent tube, etc) gets to 6500K, the closer its CCT is to the assumed CT of noontime-sun daylight. That doesn't tell us anything else about the light -- its spectral power distribution, most critically -- and so it is false and not real to claim that an artificial light source puts out light "close to daylight" because its CCT is close (or relatively closer) to 6500K.
It won't.
The one isn't necessary to obtain the other. Halogen bulbs with uncolored glass tend to have a CT of between 3050K and 3500K, depending on factors like filament pitch and luminance. Those, in turn, tend to be driven by whether the goal is maximum lifespan (low luminance, low CT) or maximum performance (high luminance, high CT).
Baseless hype.
The Osram 65w H7 is no longer available, though there have been some nasty counterfeits found. Dan Stern tells me he's having 65w H7-type bulbs made in Germany, but I don't know when (or really if) he'll have them in stock. The Night Hawk Xenon (+120) does give better performance/somewhat shorter life than the Night Hawk Platinum (somewhere between +50 and +80). For the low beams, your original plan to put in an H9 is fine in those headlamps and gives good value for dollar: less expensive bulb, more light on the road, and about the same lifespan as the +120 bulbs.
Good. Make super-sure the lamps are aimed correctly .
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Trick i use if you don't want to poke holes in your wires (which you don't) is to carefully back probe the harness connector with something small like a needle or pin. Then alligator clip the multimeter leads to the pin
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Jason's got the right idea: backprobe using a pin. Testing with the socket connected doesn't give any useful information.
And you should still see about 12.6 even if the car's been sitting overnight. Either you've got a bigger-than-normal parasitic draw or your battery's headed south.
And you should still see about 12.6 even if the car's been sitting overnight. Either you've got a bigger-than-normal parasitic draw or your battery's headed south.
Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
If it's the factory battery, it's possible it's approaching 5 years old. It's possible it's going out. There might be very light loads on it all night (the alarm system, for example) but that still seems like it might be a bit low. You might consider disconnecting the battery immediately after getting home and letting it sit disconnected for at least 8 hours. If it's at or below 12.4V after that, that could signal a problem. Is it extremely cold where you are? I'm assuming you must live in more northern latitudes because you say the lenses are in excellent condition, so perhaps you've also got some low temperatures going on right about now-- very low temperatures could affect the battery.
